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MUSIC Razor Sharp Zine will focus on the lifestyles of three distinct but related subcultures. For the music section of the zine we will attempt to meet the needs of Mods, Skinheads and Rude Boys. In this first issue I would like to set the stage for the future issues and establish an outline of what will be covered in the future. Of these three subcultures each has its own musical preferences and so following is a breakdown of what music genres will be covered in the future.
MOD
As early as there began to be a Mod subculture this subculture took music from America to be its foundation. The first Mods listened to Rhythm and Blues and related forms of jazz. These types of music were considered to be pretty controversial in their day, especially in England where they were consumed by a primarily white audience. Rhythm and Blues and other African-American musical styles were actually first being played on the radio in America at this time as a result of problems with the expense of popular forms of white music that otherwise would have been playing on the radio. But greedy promoters turn out to be in our favor for once since they exposed a naive audience to music that would eventually change the face of all popular music. Of course once these greedy producers discovered that they could take back control of the radios by producing a watered down version of R&B (known as Rock and Roll) with white artists, R&B all but disappeared from the radio. But by then the damage had been done. Back in England the Modernist youth subculture was searching for a music to fill the requirements of its philosophy and R&B fit the bill. It had no traditional ties for the British youth, it was simple and clean sounding but not void of emotional intensity and it consisted of the best in electric instruments that were the peak of modern. The fact that it was rebellious was just an added bonus. Cool Jazz and its proponents (Miles Davis, Dave Brubeck) also fit the bill being especially desirable among the calmest, coolest style fiends. The Mod movement wasn't around long before the powers that be decided to profit at its expense and you see the creation of bands and styles for the purpose of taking advantage of youth. Not that most youth didn't deserve it but it shouldn't have been at the expense of those who had developed an authentic subculture. So by the beginning of the sixties Mod had been co-opted into a popular culture with no reference to its meaning. You see rock and roll being dragged into the mix as well as lame bands like the Beatles covering otherwise cool American R&B songs. Before long their lame hippie rock took center stage and by then it was all bad. There were, however, some holdouts left. The Hard Mods who stayed true to Modernist roots took Soul, Ska and Rocksteady as their music of choice. Soul was the American response to Rock and Roll. Take African-American Music and take out its soul and you have rock and roll. So the authentic audience who was left demanded what was missing in the form of Soul. Everything that the white rock audiences didn't want was the order of the day and the emotional sound and sophisticated rhythm of Soul fit the bill. To the Mods anything that corporate music execs. couldn't put their dirty fingers on was good. Ska was stylistically close and even provided satisfaction for the Mod fetish for new dance steps. When Jamaican music slowly modified from Ska to Rocksteady the Mods were only so happy to follow. Rocksteady was even more soulful than Ska and reflected a greater R&B consciousness. About this time Mod disappeared to be replaced by the Soulie subculture and the Skinhead subculture. At the end of the seventies it was time for a revival and new bands took the clean sounds of the Mod R&B bands and reworked them to reflect the new scene and the new power that they were capable of. This is the beginning of power-pop and The Jam was the best example. Other less known bands were also heralding the rebirth of Mod, bands like The Purple Hearts, The Lambrettas and The Killermeters. Stateside bands aware of the Mod movement also started an American tradition of Mod subculture. The Untouchables were big on Mod as were The Three O Clock and others. We can only give cursory coverage to the bands now but future zine issues will be more comprehensive.
RUDE BOYS
Rude Boys started their music tradition listening to American R&B as well. Their music was being pumped over from high-powered radio stations in Miami and New Orleans. But as the supply of R&B from America began to be replaced by rock and roll the producers turned homeward for musicians to produce these R&B sounds that the Jamaican audiences wanted. After a few years the R&B music they produced had slowly transformed and so a distinctive music was developed. Jamaica's second indigenous music was Ska and it was big. As soon as producers realized that there was a market for the recordings the recording industry flourished. Studio musicians (primarily the musicians who would become The Skatalites) began pumping out the sounds for the vocalist of the day and here many young singers got their start. Ska went strong for several years and then (some say because of the long hot summer that made Ska dancing unbearable) the tempo slowed and Rocksteady was born. Rocksteady reintroduced American music into the mix, this time from Soul. The bass changed, as did many of the themes of the songs and Rocksteady played for a few years until the hippification of Jamaican music known as Reggae. The Rude Boys became the Rastas and the subculture was shipped overseas to England for safe keeping until the Two Tone revival that coincided with the Mod revival. Ska was brought back by a few bands and enjoyed substantial popularity for a year or two and then faded in the fickle British music world. Two steps away Americans picked up where the British left off and except for the unfortunate incorporation of pop elements has continued here in varying degrees of popularity ever since.
SKINHEADS
Skinheads start their history as a holdout from the Hard Mods who were in short supply by the late sixties. Britain had undergone a strange post-modern switch where hippies were unfortunately common. Skinheads shunned the power rock and whitened blues that were popular and instead embraced Ska and Rocksteady (which were referred to collectively as Bluebeat). Bluebeat was frowned upon by pseudo-intellectual hippies as being too simple (isn't that the point) and so it didn't make much waves in the popular music industry until it was re-marketed in its more spiritual form Reggae. By the time reggae entered the pop world Ska and Rocksteady were no longer being produced and the Skinhead subculture faded out. As the Two Tone and Mod revivals took back the streets Skinheads re-emerged as the consumer of both and not to rest on their laurels they took punk for a ride and created Oi! to add into the mix. Best described as melodic punk, Oi! reflected the Skinheads aggressiveness and provided room for a wider range of tastes within cool subculture. Skinheads also made their way the America and included a lot of hardcore punk into their scene and also established their own American media storms. Remember that the famous episode of Geraldo had a handful of sharp Skins trying to beat sense into the nazi boneheads. It was Skinheads in fact that maintained the strength of Ska through a couple of low points and today are among the few contributors of good Ska in the form of Skinhead Reggae and Rocksteady giving special credit to the LA Skin scene and Steady Beat Productions for that.

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SCOOTERS Scooters have been an important part of the scene since the beginning of Mod which is the earliest of cool subcultures. But scooters have been around longer than that. Vespa scooters were first built in Italy just after World War II. They combined smart engineering and the beginnings of modern design which was just being perfected in Europe in the wake of the war. But they don't become a part of a cultural lifestyle until the establishment of the Mod subculture in the late fifties. The first of Mods were youth tired of Britains postwar conservatism and exposed to increasing internationalism. In Europe modern art and design were shaping the way innovators thought and introducing the world to a philosophy free from classical traditions. British youth were first exposed to this through movies and art from the Continent especially Italy and France where artistic innovation was at its peak. America also provided music that while not free of tradition was free from traditional sounds especially to these British kids. So in this sea of newness and the exciting potential of the modern world, modernism offered it all in a youth subculture. The stage is set for scooters to enter the scene which they did as inexpensive transportation for under-priveledged kids aware of their modern lines and practical engineering. As these youth struggled for status among their youth subculture a "poor mans sports car" was at the apex of continental European style. So scooters it was. Predominately Vespa and Lambretta scooters and once the scooters were attained individuality took its toll and customization became the order of the day. The more scooters came onto the scene the more the scenesters needed to distinguish themselves from the pack with cooler and more extreme modifications. By the time Britains popular culture attempted to co-opt the attitude of the Mod subculture scooterists had devised every imaginable customization from chrome accesories to mirrors to souped-up engines. As popular culture warped and destroyed the Mod subculture the standouts with the scooters were the hard Mods or beach riot fame. The younger siblings of the original Mods the Hard Mods were the persecuted resistors of popular culture and their scooters took on the social value of rebellion. Rebellion against watered down youth culture and of traditionalism represented by greasers. The beach riots and the media coverage took its toll on even the hard Mods and the Hard Mods evolved into Skinheads. Scooters were less a thing among the first skinhead subculture as they were seen less as working class which was the skinhead ideal. However this would change after Skinhead lost its place in youth subculture in the early seventies. Dormant for several years youth subculture revived in the late seventies in response to disco and punk. This time however all of cool youth subcultures fed off of each other and Mods, Skinheads, and Rude Boys wore each others styles and rode each others scooters. From this two tone revival scooters were resurrected as symbols of youth rebellion and have been a predominant feature in our subculture ever since. Today scooters themselves are an introduction for some into the subcultures surrounding them. For others scooters are the inevitable acquisition for the member of subculture who found her start with music or clothes. There are hundreds of scooter clubs all around the world with representitives in every major city and most minor ones as well. Today scooters are an essential part of cool youth subculture.
If you have a scooter bear with me today. Future zine articles will deal with less rudimentary concerns. For now think of this as a refresher couse. So you don't have one? Here is what you need to know about them:
There are two makes of scooters that are most common on the scene. Vespa is the most common make of scooter in the U.S. and Lambrettas come in a close second. After having seen Quadrophenia It appears Lambrettas are much more common in England. Other manufacturers also produced some scooters. Notable manufacturers include the Hienkel Tourister (from Germany), The Topper (made by Harley Davidson in the US), The Cushman (also made in the US by the company that makes electric golf carts and such today) and about a thousand others made by small companies in cities across the globe that never had much national distribution. These scooters are rare and are sought after by collectors but have more to do with the scooter scene than the youth subculture since they weren't a big part of the original movement and don't have the same sleek modern designs as Vespas and Lambrettas. Asian manufactured scooters have generally been frowned upon by Mods. The only defense I have ever heard was on behalf of the Honda Rabbit which was sold in the sixties. It too lacks the sleek lines of the Italian bikes and as far as I'm concerned can be grouped with the previous less desirable scooters. I must emphasize however that all other scooters by Asian manufacturers will only get you ridiculed or beat by true members of subculture. They are the antithesis of and enemy to cool scooters.
Several models of scooters are notable so you should be aware of some basic information.
Vespa
P-200 and P-200 e are the easiest scooters to find in the US. They first became available in the late seventies and were sold here until the mid eighties when the US banned imports for smog/political reasons. The 200 indicates engine size. The P-200 has a 200 c.c. engine. Related models have similar names (e.g. P-125 has a 125 c.c. engine). The e at the end of the name indicates that the scooter has an oil metering device that saves the trouble of premixing gas and oil before adding it to the tank.
PX-200 e is very similar to the P-200 e the main notable feature being the squared off horn guard reminiscent of Italian styling from the eighties. It also has a few luxury features such as additional electronics.
The Rally is the fastest Vespa with a smaller frame but same sized engine as its counterparts. It was the most popular model before the P-200 spanning the seventies.
The Allstate is the sixties bike most common in America. They were sold through Sears (like Allstate tires) annd their notable feature is an outline shape of the US on the front.
The GS was the coolest of the mod bikes and is still considered the ideal sixties bike by many. GS stands for Grand Sport and this is the scooter that is wrecked in Quadrophenia and one of the few Vespas in the movie. It epitomizes the ideal in fifties/sixties modernist design
Others such as the Special are less common and future issues will describe them better as well as provide more detailed descriptions of the previous models.

Lambrettas
The models of Lambretta will be covered in a future issue of Razor Sharp

Scootering has some initial considerations that should be given some thought. Scooters are specialty vehicles and having work done on them will probably take more effort than the average car. For some this is no big deal because who has money to pay someone else to work on your scooter? Only major cities generally have a shop that works on Vespas. I suggest that everyone should know how to fix their own scooter at least to a certain degree. I know of people who buy completely restored scooters and who pay for all mechanical work to be done, but isn't this money better spent on clothes? Most scooter parts can be purchased by mail order if you don't live in a city where they are available. At the end of this article I will include addresses and phone numbers. A lot of custom accessories can be had through these sources as well. Remember however that if you have a breakdown it can take a while to get the parts even if you can do the work immediately. Even before you have the parts you have to figure out what's wrong and experience is the best judge of that. I will try and include troubleshooting help in future zine issues. Indespensable is a good book and I suggest the Haynes manual. It has a troubleshooting section that can help you figure out the problem and detailed instructions of how to carry out all repairs. It can be confusing though so it may take some reading to figure out what the book says. As part of your initial purchase of a scooter include the purchase of a Haynes manual. There are some basic tools that will be essential to doing work on your scooter and a future zine issue will include a detailed list and mechanical work information. But remember that you will need them soon after buying a scooter at the very least to carry out routine maintenance. It is a good idea to carry a tool kit in your scooter for the occasional trouble on the road. Don't get worried that you will be doing a lot of repair work. Vespas are renowned for reliability and preventative maintenance goes a long way.
Driving a scooter has some legal obligations. Most states (if not all) require you to have a motorcycle license to drive one. This means taking a written test similar to the one for cars and usually a driving test as well. The driving test will probably be on a closed course and involve braking and driving around cones. Some states require a motorcycle training class if you are below a certain age or they require more money. You will probably have to pay somewhere near $25 for a license. Your scooter will probably have to be legal in all respects for you to take a driving test which means all of your signals have to work, you have to have the mirrors required by your state, you have to have current registration and probably current insurance. Registration requires a title for the bike and different states have different requirements for how a title changes hands. In brief when you buy a scooter the person who sells it to you hands over the title to you which is a legal document of ownership. In some states having signatures of both the buyer and seller on the title is sufficient. In other states it has to be notarized (witnessed by a notary public). Once you have the appropriately signed title you take it to the Department of Motor Vehicles and fill out registration paperwork and pay them for the registration tax on the vehicle (which will come due every year afterwards) and usually a first time processing fee. The tax is dependent on the amount you bought the vehicle for in some states and the blue book value of the vehicle in others. If you buy the scooter from a friend make sure you buy it for really cheap so the taxes won't be too high. In many states insurance is a requirement of registration. Call some local insurance agencies for quotes on rates. For scooters it is often an up-front fee that covers you for the entire year. Liability coverage is probably the legal requirement and it covers damage you do to others but won't pay to get your scooter fixed if you wreck into somebody.
Once you get a scooter there are any number of custom parts you can get and modifications you can make. An upcoming zine article will focus on customization but as a general rule you will want your scooter to reflect your own style and coolness. Customization is also a good way to individualize yourself from the average person. Traditional customization has generally been chroming engine or body parts, attaching chrome accessories such as crash bars and racks and adding lights and mirrors to them, modifying the engine for speed or noise, painting and body work, and replacing parts with after-market ones such as exhaust systems or seats.
Subcultural lingo has developed around scooters so here are some words you will want to know to talk shop with other scooter fans.
Scoot: Annoying shortened form of Scooter. People who say scoot are just trying too hard to be different
Bike: Better than scoot you should use this if you are saying scooter so many times that it seems redundant. Preferable to both of these is just scooter or when talking to the uninitiated I prefer motorscooter because it indicates a distinction. Cycle also works.
P: Shortened form of P-200 e (or any other P model). It shows that this model is so part of your life that it isn't necessary to indicate the distinction.
Lammy: Short for Lambretta but it seems slightly diminutive to me. You should point out that you have a distinct scooter by relishing the whole name.
Plastic: Pretty much any scooter made that is distinctly un-cool is made of plastic and so plastic is a derogitory word to refer to them.
Rally: The scooter equivalent of a biker rally but one where only cool people come (ideally).
Crashbars: Chrome bars that attach to your scooter as a customization. In theory these would help in a crash but in reality they will not. They look cool but won't hold up in a wreck so they are purely aesthetic. I guess if you set your scooter gently on it's side they might stop a dent but you would risk scratching the chrome off of them. So it is best if you never lay your scooter down or get in a wreck. Try driving defensively.
Spanner: The Haynes manual uses British terms. This one is a wrench
Tyres: British spelling for tires. Don't spell like this it looks like you are trying to get attention.
Petrol: British for gas.

So that is a general rundown on scooters. Now considering that your next thought should be "How do I get my hands on one?" First you will need money so start saving up. I put away half of my paychecks so I could get one and it worked out for me so that I could still get clothes and music meanwhile. It is not unreasonable to scrimp and save to get a scooter since they are part of the description of the ideal member of subculture. In a future issue I will talk about how to find one to buy. But it is an important part of the repertoire of the sharpest member of the scene and they provide many greater opportunities for socialization among the scene members. Not to mention they set you apart from mainstream society which is the death to subculture.

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CLOTHES Is what you are wearing rebellious? Is it sloppy? Nerdy? Tough? Your clothes do communicate a message to others. You, by choosing what clothes you are wearing, are talking to the people who see you. You are presenting yourself to be some way. Don't you think it would be a good idea to know what you are saying to others? There is a science that studies such things. It is called semiotics and it is concerned with the meanings held in all kinds of things we see and hear. Unfortunately for me it is concerned a lot with scientific study and experiment, which is the part that I am not so interested in, but there are some things that can be helpful to know. So my unscientific and opinionated version of semiotics is how I will describe the messages we communicate by what we wear.
Subcultural style evolved slowly to fulfill needs that mainstream society wasn't fulfilling. The youth that adopted and created the styles that we wear did so intentionally. They did it to tell the old squares that they were doing things their own way. The first message they sent was that the clothes they wore didn't have to come from historical sources. Mods took their clothes inspiration from the European mainland instead of British sources. Skinheads looked at intentionally working class sources for their fashion and to other more subversive sources such as the Rude Boy gangster types that populated Britains underworld. Rude Boys went strait to the underworld for their fashion inspiration. It is the choice of role models that provides the first clues about the message that their clothes send. Shedding the traditional sources of fashion was a first step towards showing that they were shedding traditional philosophies.
Wearing an Italian designed suit meant accepting the modern philosophy that was part of what Italian designers believed. The reason Mod suits had trim lines and no traditional ornamentation was because this traditional ornamentation was tying them to Britains past and wouldn't allow them to move forward. Part of the history of the clothes and the intents of the original designers persists in the message that the clothes portray. Why would a suit made in the early sixties say anything about being modern today thirty years later? Partially because after modernism came postmodernism. Postmodernism tried to connect some modern ideas with historical ideas. So a postmodernist might resurrect a western motif from America's past to indicate a connection with that part of America's history. So for thirty years escaping history in the form of modernism was dismissed and people intentionally searched the past for inspiration. So the same un-ornamented suits of the modernist period still reflect a dismissal of traditional ideas. So today when you put on a suit with narrow lapels, a tailored fit and three buttons you are endorsing the progressive message of modernism. You are indicating to others that you are dismissing their own notions of reliance on history. The suits Rude Boys wore were of a similar style because briefly in America and other places in the world the modernist ideal was part of popular philosophy. Though this was short lived this is the reason that cool suits can be found in thrift stores in America. Wearing a suit today also point's back to the Mod philosophy of social class but social class not dependent on money or breeding. Mod social class was built around being smart and progressive and being willing to sacrifice for their culture. If someone looks at you in a Mod suit even though they don't know the details of your culture they get an impression of the philosophies you espouse. You are telling people "I am free from tradition, I am modern and am in a higher social class that I achieved by my own effort." Let me not neglect women's fashion. Women's vintage clothes from the same era have the same connotations. Women's jackets from the early sixties have the same trim lines and lack of ornamentation as modernist men's clothes. The tapered lines are also similar and show the same philosophical beliefs.
Skinheads postdate the Mods. Their fashion inspiration takes the same base as the Mods but add new elements namely the working class culture. Skinheads wear braces and work boots both elements are reflective of the factory workers that provide new fashion inspiration. While the Mods were at the cusp of an era that promised success and freedom from the working class, Skinheads were past the era of promise. Fed up with the empty promise of success and at the edge of continuous recession the Skinheads had less optimism than the Mods of wealth and success and so they took pride in the working class. Their clothes reflect that pride. They wear the working clothes even though in a more upscale form (a forty dollar tennis shirt is not my idea of low working class). Skinheads also took inspiration from the gangster element they saw in the Rude Boys that were on the edge of British society. The cropped hair of the skinhead is often associated to the cropped hair of the Rude Boy. The Rude Boys are also often cited as the source for the high pants hem. The Rude Boy as a fashion source is an interesting development in the progress of subculture. Instead of fashion designers telling people what to wear the drug pusher was deciding what was being worn. When a person has a drug pusher as an ideal that really indicates a difference from mainstream society. This is one of the reasons that skinhead subculture is considered so anti-social. So sporting braces and boots is like saying "I have pride in the working class and with my criminal associates the Rude Boys."
Rude Boys took popular fashion ideals and pass them through a moral filter created by the environment of poverty-stricken Jamaica. The Rude Boys most of all were subject to persecution and lack of a future. If they found success it was against great odds and through hard work. So for the typical individual success was a much greater possibility if it was through petty crime and occasionally at the expense of others. The ska musicians were the rare success story and the clothes they chose were influenced by the portrayal of gangster and popular musicians as seen from the American media. This gangster image trickled down to the Rude Boys who looked up to these musicians. Wearing a suit was the symbol of success to a Rude Boy. It was a rare success to be able to have one and only the individual tough enough to take success at any terms was able to get it. For a youth walking around in shantytown with a suit on, indicated that he probably had his fair share of scrapes with the law to get it. The Rude Boys that left Jamaica for England looking for success faced equally difficult circumstances and increased racism. So they too were often on the edge of the law and were frequently among the Mods and Skinheads influencing them as well. For a Rude Boy with a suit he would be saying, "I have overcome poverty occasionally at the expense of others and often at the expense of the law. I am a gangster and can hold my own."
There are a lot of messages contained in the details of the clothes we wear. In future Issues of Razor Sharp I will discuss more the messages that our clothes communicate. Meanwhile pay attention to the way people respond to your clothes and be aware of what you are saying. Authenticity comes from how sincere the message you are sending is to how you live your life. According to Dick Hebridge authentic subculture is in the details. Future issues will dwell more on these details. Meanwhile, Look Sharp!

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FILM Movies have been an important part of the scene since the beginning. In fact movies are partially responsible for the development of the scene as well as several elements of our subculture. In postwar Britain as the stage was being set for the Mod movement some youth were searching for their own scene and a new way of looking at the world free from the traditional styles of their parents. On the European continent the change was taking place that the Mods would embrace in the form of art and design. The scooter section addresses some of the influence that this design had on the scene. The first Mods learned of modern art and the philosophy that it promoted in the form of movies. Italian and French directors were producing modern movies that showcased the idealized modern way of life. Well-dressed, jet-setting, young, and materialistic people populated the films and story lines absent of traditional elements of plot and narration spoke to these youth of the way their lives could be. Mods adopted fashion and design elements (e.g. in the form of scooters styling) from these movies. This can be seen in the popularity of Italian suits and shoes among the early Mods. They adopted the enjoyment of youth and the jet-setting lifestyles portrayed in the films. They even structured their philosophies around the materialism and shrugging-off of tradition that the movies advocated. Mods truly found the movies an essential part of their culture and consumed them for the cultural benefit they provided.
But Mods alone were not the only subcultural beneficiaries of movies. While the Mods were watching European movies in the late fifties the Rude Boys would soon be watching American movies and making them part of their culture. In Jamaica the situation was a little different. Movies were not a force to communicate new art forms but more likely a diversion from difficult circumstances. And rather then providing an alternative philosophy these movies were filtered through a culture that already had developed its own cultural parameters. The influence that these movies had was a reinforcement of the way that Rude Boys had decided what was good and not. Rude Boys saw a lot of gangster movies from the US and what they saw in the gangsters on the movie screen mirrored in a small way the gangster lifestyle that they participated in. The romanticized gangster of the movies became a role model for the Rude Boy street hustler. Westerns also reinforced a machismo in the subculture and a sense of justice that went beyond legality. And finally movies like Ocean's 11 and James Bond movies reinforced a sense of cool and control that was the patina of the ideal Rudy. In 1968 Jamaica had it's own chance to express it's culture in the form of The Harder They Come. All of the idealized characteristics of the movies the Rude Boys enjoyed were finally played out in a local setting and with local characters. And The Harder They Come became an anthem to the Rude Boys whose lives it portrayed. Contemporary Rude Boys can learn more about their own culture by watching the movies their predecessors watched.
Skinheads as well did their share of movie watching. It seems however that Skinheads watched movies to see themselves in them. Or at least some of the legend they produced being played out on the screen. The most well known example of a "Skinhead" movie is probably A Clockwork Orange. Watching the portrayal of the characters that are obviously influenced by the Skinhead image seems payoff for the reputation that the Skinheads had developed. A few other movies popular with Skinheads are also popular for the same reason. It is an unfortunate coincidence that at the time of the Skinheads prominence popular cinema was controlled pretty substantially by the people the Skinheads liked the least: the hippies and other post-modernists. So it goes without saying that while Mods and Rude Boys had a good deal of movies to watch the Skinheads were less fortunate.
Since the end of the first parts of our subculture a few movies have been made that document our scenes. Quadrophenia is one of the most well known but Absolute Beginners is more true to the original concept of Mod. These movies are well known among contemporary members of subculture and are watched a lot,but this should not be at the expense of the original movies that were important for forming these subcultures. At the same time it would be nice to see some other contemporary movies that account for subculture.
Future issues of Razor Sharp will have reviews of movies that were important to the scene but there is a list of movies at the end of this article if you want something to check out while you wait. Many of these movies will be reviewed in the future. I want to include current movies as well so as I see or hear about movies that can be justified by subcultural standards I will include these as well. I hope that you will watch movies with the subculture in mind and enjoy some of these movies that were so influential to the creation of our scene and the philosophies that make us distinct.

The Harder They Come
Absolute Beginners
Quadrophenia
Clockwork Orange
Ocean's 11
James Bond (only Sean Connery ones)
Dr. No
Goldfinger
You Only Live Twice
From Russia With love
Thunderball
Diamonds Are Forever
La Dolce Vita
8 1/2
La Avventura
Blow Up

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Zines have been a part of the scene since there has been more members of subculture than word of mouth can serve. Reading in fact was an important source of influence for the establishment of subculture. There are a number of books and magazines that are influential to the scene or that have interest to members of the scene. Colin MacInnes wrote Absolute Beginners which was the first book to document the Mod scene and the British teenage phenomenon. Ian Flemming wrote the James Bond novels that were more influential to Mod subculture than the movies that mostly postdate it. For scenesters of the first Mod and Skinhead era zines were a good method of contact and mass communication. Fanzines were a way for people in separate areas to stay on the same page when it comes to their culture. They also often read popular music magazines more to see what they would say bad about them rather than for coverage of anything they are interested in. Ska often got a good deal of criticism in the popular press in England as did music forms that eventually gained mainstream acceptance such as Soul or R&B. Mods and Skinheads were often interested in what damage they were causing and when a music critic complained about their music it was support that they were doing it right. Mods and Skinheads also were known to clip articles about the damage they were causing. Mods clipped articles about beach riots where journalists exaggerated the damage the Mods had caused. Skinheads clipped articles about soccer riots and other hooliganism that the press reported Skinheads as being responsible for. Skinheads also read pulp novels with Skinhead characters such as those written by Richard Allen.
The subcultural revivals also brought back the writing. Zoot was a well-known zine that talked to the revival and the revitalized subculture. Scootering Magazine rose from this era and is going strong. In America there have been numerous zines but none with the success of their British counterparts. Roughneck Business ran a few issues, the Moon Skazette is still around sort of and a number of Skinhead zines are still hovering around. Skinhead Times was a regular Skinhead zine from England that ran it's last issue in 1995. The publisher, Skinhead Times Publishing, still publishes lots of books of interest to the scene namely books by Richard Allen, Steve Goodman, and such informational books like The Two Tone Story and Mods. If you send an IRC (International Response Coupon) to their address I bet they would send you a list of the stuff that you can get from them but you can also get some of these books from Moon Records and Two Tone. These addresses are:
S.T. Publishing
P.O. Box 12
Dunool, Argyll. PA23 7BQ
Scotland

Two Tone
251 Main Ave.
Passaic Park, NJ 07055

Moon Records
PO Box 1412
Cooper Station
New York, NY 10276

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COOL
If you have ever seen someone on the scene that had everything together, who had the clothes, the dance steps, and the music. This person probably seemed cool. But cool is not merely having a collection of clothes and records and memorizing some trendy dance steps. Cool seems indefinable. Like some inborn quality that only the rare individual is blessed with. But in reality this isn't really the case. Cool is a skill. And like a nice wardrobe it can be achieved but unlike clothes cool isn't the domain of the wealthy or fortunate. Cool is a matter of understanding how others perceive you so that they think of you as always being in control.
The concept of cool has been part of the scene since the beginning. Outsiders looked at the scensters and couldn't figure out what was strange about these youth. Papers have been written about what these youth possessed that was so un-understandable. Cool is a product of twentieth century subculture. To the oppressed African-American youth, cool was one of the few domains where mainstream white American society could not control. Cool was an underground language of motions and words that were not understood by others. In the fifties more liberal minded whites began associating with African-American subculture; namely beatniks and jazz musicians and others who preferred good music. Beatniks were intrigued by the concept of cool and gave some thought to what it meant. One described cool as doing what was most appropriate under any given situation. If you were sitting in a diner and you saw a bowl of gelatin and thought to yourself "that sounds good" and ordered one that is okay. But having finished that bowl you still want one then that may be perceived as strange and another one after that is certain to make your fellow diners wonder what your problem is. So instead of sitting in the diner and eating bowl after bowl the cool person would only eat one bowl. If she still wanted gelatin then she would finish her first bowl pay and leave and then find another diner where her dessert consumption would not be noticed. Being cool is being aware of your surroundings and making a decision on what the best action is for the given situation. For the Skinhead, cool might be deciding well whether or not it is a good idea to provoke a group of rednecks into a fight. It may be cool to take them out but it is not cool to have the crap beat out of you. Mods, Skinheads and Rude Boys have all revised the standards and up-dated the details of cool. They have all developed their own patois, subcultural gestures and acceptable situations. This column will focus on what cool is to our subcultures. In order to maintain authenticity within the scene it has been important to keep high standards of behavior. Mods were the popularizers of the expression poseur (pronounced poser). Poseurs are people who adopt some elements of subculture without adopting the philosophy. Beyond insincerity poseurs are known by their inability to get down the authentic elements of cool. Within subculture there are a few categories this column will deal with. These are:
Music
Recognizing what music is cool reflects in conversations and record collections and harboring a Led Zeppelin album in an otherwise cool record collection is surely reflective that there are some problems. No amount of misguided nostalgia can justify that.
Fashion
The fashion section will be the primary source for discussion on clothes. But as far as you can recognize someone as being cool by his or her clothes this section will deal with that.
Patois
Being distinctive in mainstream society is a difficult task. By speaking a language no one else understands you exclude them and include those of the in-crowd who do. And people trying to sound like a part of the subculture who are not, are often given away by a misplaced word or an out-of-touch phrase. Nothing turns my stomach like a poseur trying to talk the talk and throwing around hippie words like "hip" or "daddy-o".
Dancing
If someone is not on the scene it is easiest to tell on the dance floor. Someone trying to mosh in a crowd of dancing Rude Boys is likely to not only show himself to be a poseur but also likely to earn a beating. Even people who are on the scene could often use some sound advice on the dance floor.
Mannerisms and Gestures
Body language is a subtle and easily hidden form of communication that separates real from fake. A poseur often does not see the nod or handshake that passes as a greeting for the authentic Mod. Yelling and grabbing undue attention is a sure-fire way to embarrass someone who values subtlety and expose your naivete.
Street Smarts
Be aware of what is going on around you. A cool individual doesn't let others take advantage of her. She also knows her limits and has a backup plan or escape route. It is not un-cool to get jumped by thugs but it is un-cool to walk into a situation where that happens. Another part of street smarts is being aware of the oral history of the scene. Knowing the stories that are part of your subculture and knowing the things that are authentic to the scene are important to being cool. Imagine chatting with someone who doesn't know what you are talking about when you mention Quadrophenia or a certain model of scooter. You would doubt their involvement in the scene.
Future issues of Razor Sharp will attempt to set a standard of cool for the scene and promote authenticity. This section will discuss all of these above elements of subculture in terms of how to make us part of a cooler and more distinct subculture.

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INSIDE
This section of Razor Sharp is dedicated to all those things that fit under the guise of subculture that we do at home. Don't worry we're not imposing ourselves on your personal life. But subculture is not something that is left on our doorstep. A lifestyle comes with us in our leisure times as well as when we have friends over for a party or the like. Think of Razor Sharp as the Martha Stewart of subculture. What ever you do in your home be it entertaining or hanging out alone your subculture should be reflected there as well.
There are a few particular things that this section will deal with particularly. In the future this may expand but for now this is what this section will deal with:
Parties and Entertaining
An important element of a strong scene is a social life that is not limited to the occasional concert or event. Hanging out at places other than home is fine for a lot of things but parties are best at home and some more casual gatherings are better on your home turf. This section will talk about aspects of throwing parties that will maintain your status as the face. Mods throw cocktail parties, Skinheads are renowned for bar-be-ques and dances and movie viewing are all good opportunities to strengthen the bonds that exist in your scene. We want to support this type of social activities and in addition to educating you on good ways to do them we will also attempt to help in promoting local events. The third issue will provide information about how we can help with this.
Listening to Music
Music is one of the foundations of our culture. But it is not limited to concerts. Listening to music at home is essential to keep up with what is going on in the world. You don't just go to every show you hear about. Listening to music at home helps refine your tastes and determine which shows to spend your hard-earned cash on. To listen to music at home it is helpful to have a certain amount of equipment and a good record collection. We will include information from those in the know to help you get that record collection and the equipment you will need to listen to it. Hopefully we will get everyone on the scene comfortable with music at home.
Your Surroundings
This sounded better then interior decorating (which has kind of a bad connotation to it) but in essence that is what it is with a subculture twist. From the posters you have on your wall to the furniture you have to what sort of way you keep your place are all affected by the standards of subculture. Here we will talk about the implications of the things around you and how to give people who come into your home or room the right impression.
Hanging Out
As a member of a scene you have the opportunity to maintain a social presence. But not every moment of your life has to be some structured event. Probably you spend more time just hanging out with your friends then there are actual other things to do. You probably do a good deal of this hanging out in your home or room. Whether you are listening to music or hanging out chatting, this section will also deal with how you spend your unstructured leisure time.

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OUTSIDE
The life of a Mod, Skinhead or Rude Boy focuses pretty heavily on the events that make up their lifestyle. How one spends their leisure time indicates their priorities. For those of us in material culture there are some events that we look forward to. You know what they are. Concerts, scooter rallies, movies, eating out and shopping are all important events in our lives. That is because they are the focus of elements of our culture such as music, fashion, etc. The exteriors section of Razor Sharp will focus on those events that take place outside of our homes that make up our lifestyle.
The first gathering point for members of subculture was probably concerts. Shows became a gathering place for those with similar music tastes. As music became just part of a bigger lifestyle it persisted as a place to gather. Concerts and the like were also a place for members of an increasingly competitive scene to posture. Today shows are the main gathering for scenes that are spread over several cities. When a good band is performing and a venue works a concert can be a highlight of the scene. Unfortunately there are some problems with how often this occurs. There are not enough cool bands playing around. It would be nice if good bands performed consistently. There's not much to be done about that except encourage and support the bands that do exist and try and form new bands that are actually cool. Future issues will discuss this but for now it is your duty to do what you can to get to the few shows that do come through. I suggest as well that you act appropriately at concerts. Trying to mosh while others are trying to dance is a sure way for the real members of subculture to be edged out of the scene they created. It seems appropriate to do all in our control to keep these poseurs out of the way and off the dance floors. Issue Three of Razor Sharp will address this issue. Venues are another problem issue. Being in the minority we are often at the mercy of others in our community. Where we go to see shows is subject to zoning laws and economics. The clubs that do exist are often venues shared with loserly type bands and such. The decor is lame, the management sucks, there are problems with booking, the lamest local acts somehow always end up on the bill, any number of problems exist with venues. But probably the worst thing about it is some of the lame people that end up there. How do all of the drunk frat boys know where these shows are? There are liable to be problems with dancing unless there is a strong scene. People always crowd the dance floor and do everything but dance. There are a number of problems for concerts to overcome here in America so this section will try and deal with some of these issues and assist in solving them.
Scooter Rallies are a good event for people in the scene to plan around. Of course they are best if you have a scooter but regardless there are often events for others, such as shows that are generally very good. There are plenty of photo ops and a chance to mingle with fellow subculture types. Sometimes there are swap-meet type things where there are goods to be had such as records, scooter parts and sometimes clothes. The ride is the only thing the scooterless can't really participate in. So all the rallies I have been to are cool. There are not any real complaints. Plus you don't even need a scooter club to have a scooter ride. It only takes two scooters to have a ride. If there are at least that many in your community it is cool to have regular rides. Future issues will discuss setting them up. A scooter club is another good way to increase sociality in your scene and provide good opportunities for events.
On rare occasions, especially in bigger cities, there is a screening of Quadrophenia. This provides a good opportunity for scene gatherings but other movies are also a good reason for events. In addition to movies scenesters hang at cafes and restaurants quite a bit. Let me caution you that hanging out at Denny's is not cool but certain types of dining and such are in line with material culture and cool subculture. Hanging out in coffee shops is pretty commonplace but most communities have someplace cooler and less "Gen X" than Starbucks.
The traditional Mods are known for spending half of their paychecks on clothes and they were almost solely responsible for the financial success of the Carnaby Street fashion district in London. If you don't enjoy spending a little time on spending your paycheck things are against you having much success in the scene. Cool clothes and such aren't exactly hanging out at the mall waiting for the rare cool person to come along. Malls are stocked with insipid trendy clothes for the fashion victims of popular culture. Cool clothes are by nature unpopular. In fact cool clothes that become popular quickly lose their coolness. So you will probably have to spend some time looking for that remarkable wardrobe that makes you the face. Razor Sharp will attempt to simplify your search for cool clothes and accessories and contribute to the success of your spending. In addition we also want to help with mail order sources and to a certain degree helping you find sources in your community. In future issues we will give some more specific information about how you can help us do this.
We will also help by promoting events and encouraging scene participation. Let us know of any of the events that you have heard of or are planning. We will print it in our events section and we will also start an events mailing list that will go to all people who get a copy of Razor Sharp. Between these things we should keep all of our bases covered but if you have any suggestions let us know.

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THEM
You should know by now that Mod is short for Modernist. Modernism is a philosophy that was the initial motivation for the creation of the Mod subculture. Skinheads maintained the modernism of the Mods. And in many ways Rude Boys also typify a modernist philosophy. Eventually the first subcultures diminished. Mods and Rude Boys gave way to Skinheads who rose up in opposition to the hippies that were becoming more and more common as the sixties continued. When they weren't rioting at soccer matches skinheads were bashing hippies. Many of the hippies were the former poseur Mods who climbed on the bandwagon when Mod became a marketing tool for the Beatles. The reason that Skinheads and hippies got on so poorly was the hippie counterculture was an extension of the popular philosophy of postmodernism that was replacing modernism in the popular culture. Fighting hippies was more than kicks for Skinheads, it was combating a philosophy that ridiculed and demeaned their own. As the sixties passed into the seventies the world absorbed postmodernism as the popular philosophy and the result was bell-bottom pants, disco and every other embarrassing trend from then on. When the subculture was revived in the late seventies it was in response to the decade of postmodernism that had taken control of the world. Postmodernism was counterproductive and robbed the world of the gains that modernism had made.
Postmodernism is still the popular culture but at least there exists an underground of modernism in cool subculture. This section of Razor Sharp is all about "Them", the followers of a postmodern philosophy and what implication they have on the scene. But first there needs to be some clarification or definition of what these philosophies actually mean. So we start at the beginning of the twentieth century. The popular culture than was what we will refer to as classical. The past was their guide. They learned from the lessons of the past and borrowed liberally from the past for inspiration. Clothes were designed to reflect a previous era such as the Victorian era or the old west. Elements of all previous history could be found in the clothes, design, writing, architecture, and attitudes of popular society.
In the Thirties in Europe and later in America innovators began to question our dependence on the past. These Modernists felt that the world could be improved by looking to the future and the progress that it offered. They rejected the old way of doing things. Art should not be restricted to depictions of objects in the natural world just because that is what was always done before. Design did not need to reflect the demands of some historical period. Rather than base our thought on the examples of others we set new standards by which things could be judged.
Modernists abandoned superstition as a basis for knowledge and demanded that the five senses provide the foundation for fact. Things that could be seen, heard, felt, tasted or smelled were the reality that would provide the standards against which objects could be judged. It was no longer enough to say that because a chair was always designed to be a certain height and have certain ornamentation that it was sufficient. The chair had to serve a purpose that coincided with the senses. If it was comfortable that was a feature that could be appreciated or if it had a visual appeal that was a standard for appreciation not because that is the way craftsmen made the chair before. Modernism, because of its reliance on the standards of the senses, came to include the philosophy of materialism. Material things being those that could be sensed.
In addition to materialism, modernism also adopted the concept of utilitarianism, which is a long word that means things should be judged on how useful they are. How they fulfill their designed function. Modernism became part of popular culture in the fifties and early sixties and then was replaced by postmodernism.
Postmodernism was a creation of so called intellectuals that felt that the senses were not a good enough standard for judgement since in some cases they can be deceived. They said instead that there could be no real standards of judgement and that all things were relative only to the position from which they were being judged. A chair that was comfortable to me may or may not be comfortable to you and therefore all standards were unreliable. No chair could be called comfortable or not since in theory it might be uncomfortable to someone. This ridiculous mental manipulation was really just a way to justify these hippies inability to meet any real standards. And so the world returned to all of the mistakes of the past. Hippies could again borrow from any historical period now without even meeting the standards of quality for that era since the standards were relative anyway. So what it boils down to is that popular culture can take anything that they want from whenever they want, use it for whatever they want regardless (and usually ignorant of) its original purpose. Today you will see people with clothes ornamented by elements of any era in history mismatched with other historical eras, movies about Elizabethan England with themes that are anything but Elizabethan and fashion shows with a "nod to the mod" that are anything but modernist.
"So what does what they say have to do with us?" you might ask. It is this type of misrepresentation that muddles the facts. What do leisure suits have to do with Mod? I saw it in a fashion show so it must be true. Beatles haircuts mod? Rude Boys in bow ties? Most of those idiots you saw at the last show trying to pretend they are part of the scene were probably the result of postmodernist influence or interpretation. MTV is like postmodernism 101 and so any information they convey is automatically suspect. We will deal with postmodernism and popular culture in future issues of Razor Sharp. We will consider what we can gain from these and what we should avoid and also most importantly how to avoid the pitfalls that popular culture has had on the scene in the past.

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US
Subcultures have been around as long as society has. Ever since there has been a mainstream society there has been those who were not part of it. But cool subculture has a unique characteristic. For the entire history of the world it wasn't until the twentieth century that people became members of subculture by their own choice. Subcultures were generally made up of small groups of outcasts from mainstream society but until the teddy boy subculture after WWII the members of these subcultures did not belong to them as a matter of choice. Teddy boys adopted a certain style and philosophy and knowingly diverged from mainstream culture to pursue their own cultural standards. Mods as well diverged from mainstream society as a matter of choice and chose to accept outcast status.
America's history has been a series of absorbing many cultures into one. It is the tendency of Americans to want to accept all into their theoretic melting pot but there have always been conditions and one of these conditions is that you must make an effort to be part of mainstream society. So the concept of wanting to be different from mainstream society is a new one to Americans and most of the world for that matter. During the sixties though things went out of control and diverging from mainstream society become increasingly popular. By now in fact mainstream society claims to reward the individualist who wants to "do their own thing." How sincere this is really is arguable but as part of a backlash there are those who are very critical of anyone who doesn't try to be completely different from everyone. These two forces play on cool subculture one side criticizing us for being different from mainstream and the others criticizing us for being all alike. To the true member of subculture individualism is important. Individualism is a defense against mainstream society and the problems with it that caused us to strike out on our own. Insipid fashion and music, having our choices dictated to us by others and being stuck in the rut of history are just a few of the reasons that we left mainstream culture in the first place. Once we struck out on our own we solved the problems of mainstream culture our own way and developed our subculture to perpetuate our ideas. Our own subculture became strong and has been maintained for several decades.
Now that hippies and punks have been co-opted into the mainstream society the tables have turned and members of cool subculture are called followers and members of an army. This is interesting coming from people who buy their clothes at a mall and read Rolling Stone magazine, but being a hypocrite doesn't make them wrong. Missing the point makes them wrong. There are billions of people in the world and there are few things you could do that no one has ever done. Being individual consists of combining elements of your personality in ways that distinguish you from others. People who think they are unique are rarely aware that they are subject to cultural restrictions. How many of these people who think they are one of a kind speak English, eat three meals a day and sleep at night. They aren't all that they think they are, just a jumbling of things that are not new packaged to seem unique. No one ever chose to be a Skinhead so they could be the only person in the world without hair. People have many reasons for becoming a part of a group but not being part of a group is seldom one of them. But regardless let's examine some of the dangers of being part of a group.
If the group does something dumb you are still part of it. If everyone goes and starts a fight with an enemy they are not able to defeat you are liable to get beat up with the rest of them. If the group comes under fire you also come under fire. When Skinheads became a media sensation that associated them with right wing nazis all Skinheads regardless of political tendencies were associated in the publics mind with these boneheads. If you are the only dissenting voice you are liable to become outcast. If you show up at a show in a Nehru jacket and every one else at the show thinks that Nehru jackets are too late Mod to be cool you are stuck no matter how you try and justify it.
In order to deal with these dangers of group identification you can take a lesson from the member of subculture that grows up as the only one in the community. If you are the only person in your town to be part of cool subculture you are probably accustomed to not having support from other people. Your source of culture comes through the media in forms such as zines, records, movies and others. Because of this you learn to not be dependent on others. You also learn to stand up for yourself in the face of unpopularity and criticism. By using the philosophy and standards of the past you have a foundation not subject to the weaknesses of individuals. This is one reason scenes in larger cities are more subject to trends and changes and the individual in a small town is more likely to remain true to tradition. If you are a member of a group remember to function as an individual but remember that you are a part of a tradition and the standards of that tradition must be upheld. Every member of a scene must be equally dedicated to the ideals of the subculture and not a follower going along with the trend of the weak. These people who are on the scene one month and on some other kick the next are just chipping away at the image and value of the authentic member of subculture. The worst thing a member of subculture can accuse another of is being a poseur and these on again off again people are just poseurs.

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