SECOND ISSUE
Join the fight against cultural oppression
Overthrow the powers that be and install
a new style Dictatorship
RAZOR SHARP
Propoganda for the fashion revolution
THESE SOUNDS LED THE WAY
When I first got on the scene in the late eighties Ska was very hard to
come by. Especially in a small town which is where I was from.
Therefore, anything I could get my hands on I thought was great and I listened
to a small amount of music a lot. As my world expanded and I got
more music I liked it all. I would read in zines about albums and
album reviews would criticize an album that I liked. I never understood
why a reviewer liked some albums and not others. Especially since
I liked them all. Well I've been on the scene for a long time mow
and now I am critical of albums that I liked before. Why this change?
Let me try and explain.
When I was new to the scene I didn't really understand all of
the implications of being a member of a subculture. Especially one
that exists in the midst of a popular culture that is so different from
it. I didn't know that there were authentic and fake versions of
almost every element of subculture. I didn't know all of the traditions
and styles that made up the subculture and so when I heard a song I didn't
know if it was authentic to the meaning of subculture. The longer
I stayed on the scene and the more I learned about my subculture the more
discerning I became and soon I understood why many of the songs were being
criticized by the reviewers. The first change came when I got a Skatalites
album. It sounded less like the Ska I was listening to and more like
jazz. At least to my uninitiated ears. But I persisted and
the more familiar I became with the album the more I liked it and the less
it sounded like jazz. Of course it didn't sound more like the Ska
that I was listening to. I started to find sources for more sixties
Ska. And the more I listened to it the more it sounded like a distinct
genre, different from what was being called Ska in the early nineties.
I started noticing similarities between some bands (Hepcat for example)
but mostly I noticed differences. I became familiar with a good deal
of sixties Ska and learned about the true authentic Rude Boy culture.
The more I learned about it the less it seemed that the newer Ska bands
knew about it. I met people in bands and they talked about their
influences as being popular artists from american music history rather
than Jamaican artists and in fact very few musicians I met knew even rudimentary
things about authentic sixties Ska. So if these bands were not influenced
by members of our subculture what were they contributing to our scene.
The final realization came when I bought an album that would
change the way I thought about all music. Unfortunately the album
did this by providing a bad example. It was “Devils Night Out”
by the Bosstones. Remember that up to this point I liked all Ska.
Every band that put the word on the cover I liked. And so as I listened
to this album I thought to myself "this sucks!" Why all of the sudden
do I not like a "Ska" album. I listened to it over and over again
thinking that I would learn to like it but all I really learned was the
specific reasons that I didn't like this album:
It was heavily sprinkled with heavy metal guitar (I knew little about
my subculture then but I knew enough to know that heavy metal and all it
represented had nothing to do with it).
The vocals sounded terrible (my familiarity with sixties Ska never
provided any examples of Ska without very nice, if not harmonious vocals).
The rhythm was inconsistent (there were changes from the simplified
Ska rhythm to rock rhythm to I don't know what else)
Why did this band call itself Ska if it sounded like this?
It was something I only first realized: Ska was being misapplied
to describe any band that has an upbeat drive. Now I had to look
back at all of the music I had been listening to and re-assess whether
or not I should like them. So for the first time I had to develop
my own personal standard for determining which music was good and which
was not.
The first thing I did was to make a decision. I had to decide
if I wanted to enjoy all of this music regardless of the implications it
had on authentic music styles or I had to decide if I was a part of the
subculture that provided material for these bands to rip off. I chose
subculture and have since refined my tastes for music even further.
The more I get into authentic music styles the more I dislike a lot of
the music that I liked before. And the more I discover good authentic
music that props up and supports my culture rather than tear it down.
I have learned some things and I want to describe the standards that I
use to judge music by and which music will be judged by in this zine.
The basis is subculture. All music is produced from a cultural
background and speaks best to that culture. Therefore music produced
outside of the subculture doesn't communicate the same messages as that
produced within. For Ska that means the standard was set when the
Rude Boy subculture set the beat in the late fifties and early sixties.
The best Ska is that that was produced in Jamaica by Rude Boys at the time
Rude Boys were at their power. The elements which set sixties Ska
apart from contemporary Ska are worth considering.
Real Ska is based in the rhythm section of the band. The
drummer and the bassist alone make the primary distinction between a Ska
rhythm and a counterfeit. Occasionally there are other percussion
or instruments played rhythmically such as a beat guitar or a piano but
these are the exception and not the rule. This is a fact many new
bands do not realize when the only similarity is the guitarist playing
"chunka chunka" over a rock drum pattern. The bassist is an essential
element to the Ska. True Ska was recorded and played with a very
predominant bass sound as that is the dancers best cue. The bassist
also played walking bass progressions. This is an element almost
completely absent in new so-called Ska bands. Even the hint of a
funk bass line sets the true Ska fan on edge and is a sure sign that there
is nothing of value to the true member of subculture. Funk and all
of its elements go against the modern philosophy that produced cool subculture.
Tempo is also a good distinguishing factor between real and bad
Ska. Many contemporary bands seem to feel that Ska is good because
it is so upbeat and happy (which is a terrible misreading of Ska, like
saying that because Platoon is about war that it glorifies it.) Ska
originally held an optimistic view of pretty bad circumstances. While
it may have been about the good things in life it wasn't ignorant of the
bad things. Contemporary bands that try to dress it up by de-emphasizing
the downbeats and quickening the tempo to a frantic pace do it a disservice.
A lot of Ska was instrumental. The Ska that had vocals,
had well performed vocals sung by talented singers often with skilled vocal
harmonies. This again is an unusual element to find in contemporary
music. Something happened in the seventies that convinced us that
any garage band who wanted could be successful independent of whether or
not they developed musical skills. Any band can be successful but
that doesn't mean that they are any good. The lyrics to authentic
Ska dealt with certain themes. These themes are rarely dealt with
in contemporary Ska. Contemporary Ska themes are embedded in the
middle class. Authentic Ska expresses a triumph over poverty though
it doesn't always express an escape from it. A future zine issue
will focus on the themes in sixties Ska.
The melody is the final element of authentic Ska. True
Ska melodies are simple and very much like American Rhythm and Blues from
the sixties. Note however that like R&B Ska is a rhythm based
music and the melody is truly secondary. The melody is simple and
primarily provides a distinction between songs and a framework for vocals.
So-called Ska relies far too heavily on melody at the expense of rhythm.
It also is likely to be too complex and full of novelty elements.
Real Ska is an expression of a distinct culture and as such is
free from influences that are contrary to the philosophies of that culture.
Fake Ska is full of poor attempts to fuse incompatible musical styles.
Heavy metal, funk, any jazz from after 1965, swing, polka and rock are
contrary to the authentic meaning of Ska. On the other hand real
Ska takes influences from fifties vocalists such as Frank Sinatra, jump
blues, Rhythm and Blues, soul, and early jazz. Authentic Ska doesn't
really take well to punk but punk has been known to borrow well from Ska
as in the case of The Clash and Rancid. It is a popular thing to
do by people who want to revolutionize the music world to want to create
the next big music genre by mixing and matching musical styles. For
the true member of subculture however this is just watering down or diminishing
real subculture for a small variation on popular culture.
I hope that you understand why I don't like a lot of music that is
misnamed Ska. The true value of subculture lies hidden in the details
and it is these details that are lost in popular music. A television
personality that I admire says "Life is a matter of taste." So it
is with music and high standards in music leads to a high appreciation
of life. Get rid of popular tastes because in order for something
to be popular it also has to be insipid and life shouldn't be wasted on
bland music.
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THE SCOOTER SCENE
For the first Mods scooter ownership was not as essential as it is today.
It was also less of an option for up-and-coming youth. While these
first Mods were interested in Italian modern design, scooters themselves
were not as readily available to youth who were not employed or paid little
for their work. So it took a little money before scooters became
a part of the scene. Originally as an unusual occurrence for only
the top Mods, scooters eventually became more and more commonplace.
Once the Mod subculture became stronger the scooter became standard transportation
and soon became a rallying point for Mods. Scooters also became a
point of distinction for Mods since the face could be distinguished not
only by his clothes but also by his scooter and more importantly by the
customizations done to it. By the end of the first Mod era scooters
were an essential part of the scene. Scooter clubs were being formed
and provided additional unity to groups of Mods. By the time of the
beach riots scooters were the primary distinction that people recognized
of the Mods. Riots occurred between the Mods that were mobile enough
to get to the beach and the bikers. These riots became a distinctive
occurrence that was remembered by the new Mods when the subculture was
revived in the late seventies.
At the Mod revival that accompanied the "two tone" Ska revival
(and joined with it) scooters were brought back into the mix. It
was in fact scooters that were the most pervasive element of the revival
and it outlasted the music and the fashion. The new Mods formed scooter
clubs and resurrected many an old scooter. Customization was revived
and brought to new levels. Beyond just bolt on chrome accessories
customizers were Modifying body styles and doing amazing things with paint.
This scooter revival has lasted to today with frequent rallies and events
for scooterists and the publication of scooter magazines the most notable
of which is Scootering. Even so, this revival took place primarily
in England but soon after youth all over the world that admired the subculture
of these British youth were adopting the love of scooters.
In Europe scenes formed and scooter clubs flourished. Some
scenes stayed sharp long after the clothes had faded from the British scene
and the scooters became the primary focus. The Skinhead phenomenon
had adopted the scooter as well during the Mod revival and this became
apparent at the rallies with the number of Skinheads attending and also
in the type of customization done to the scooters. As Skinhead spread
over the world so did the scooters and scooter clubs. Today almost
every country has scooter clubs some adhering to the Mod origins and some
to the Skinhead modifications. But all are going strong without showing
any indication of lessening.
In America Mod traveled to our shores with the "new wave" of
British music and culture that became popular in the early eighties.
American Mod scenes formed first and some notable scootering began.
Focused primarily on the East and West coasts the Mod scenes established
a harder sharper alternative to the sloppy punk and cheesy pop that gained
popularity in mainstream society. Along with the Mod subculture scooters
became important. Slowly at first like the original Mods the scooters
became increasingly pervasive until there were enough that clubs and scenes
were established stateside. Some remarkable scooterists were the
members of California's The Untouchables. The Untouchables helped
the adoption of scooters into the subculture by their example and by their
support of scooter clubs and rallies. The scooter scene grew even
as Mod began to fade with diminishing music from overseas. The stalwarts
stayed on but the scooter scenes were the strength of the culture until
Skinhead made it's way into America's consciousness. Skinheads picked
up where the Mods left off and scootering flourished with the new blood.
As Ska began to gain ground in America the Rude Boy subculture joined the
Skinheads and the stalwart Mods that stayed true to the scene. They
also took up the love of scooters much like the "two tone" Ska revivalists.
Today the scooter scene persists encompassing all members of
cool subculture. At a rally today Mods, Skinheads and Rude Boys all
show up on their personalized scooters. And scooters show up at any
show where the respective musical types of these subcultures, is played.
There are scooter clubs in every major city in America and in most moderately
large cities as well and some smaller towns even have a club or so.
Rallies run all year in warmer climates and more frequently in the summer.
Major events are held annually. Scooterists often have weekly or
regular rides in their communities and especially at concerts and other
scene events such as the occasional screening of Quadrophenia. Razor
Sharp will focus on everything possible to strengthen and encourage scooter
clubs and scenes. If you are looking for a scooter scene in your
area let us know and we will do what we can to hook you up. We will
also work on supporting independent riders and promoting and publicizing
scooter events. We have a capable design and writing team that will
be glad to assist in designing flyers etc. But we would also like
your help by keeping us informed about your events and will even work with
you to include information on your scene or events in the form of upcoming
articles.
In addition to actual support of scenes we will also include
articles that promote authenticity among scenes and include information
about how to get things done. We also will include as much informational
writing as possible, focusing on the history and resources available to
the scene. Hopefully those of you who haven't yet joined the scooter
scene will soon and with our assistance do it well. Ride Rude.
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SUITING UP
During the winter of 1989 I had only been to a few concerts before and
I wanted to be more a part of a scene. Of course being from a small
town made this difficult but I was always posturing to appear more experienced
then I was. Anyway it was winter and my older brother who was one
of my role models was out of state attending college and I had the opportunity
to visit him. Being naive and inexperienced in the ways of the scene
I was excited to meet his friends who were in the scene in the college
town he lived in and maybe get to a show or something. I don't remember
seeing any shows there but I do remember meeting his friends. One
in particular made a lasting impression on me by merely mentioning something
off-hand. My brother and I and this individual were in my brother's
dorm room and they were chatting and I would occasionally participate in
this conversation that seemed very sophisticated to me. I asked
about a picture of my brother and him from a show and he mentioned that
he would never go to a show without a suit. This became my creed
and to this day I have never gone to a show without a suit.
I would hope that this is second nature to you but judging from the
people I see at shows it is not. Let me discuss why this is important.
Our subcultures are all from an era when mainstream society was different
that today. As the scenes began society was stratified by class.
The wealthy maintained cultural control by establishing and changing arcane
modes of dress and other cultural standards to maintain superiority.
The Mod subculture was the first form of a culture bent on subverting the
standards of mainstream society. By adopting and outdoing the wealthy
in their own standards the Mods undermined the existing social stratification.
The Mods proved that fashion was not the domain of the historically wealthy
but the smart progressive individual instead. They took the standards
of dress and modified them to reflect their own philosophy and ability
to outdo others. Outdoing others meant dressing at a higher level
of formality then them. The Mods were often said to be better dressed
then their bosses. And as Mods became more common the subculture
took the standards of the idealists who said that the face was the Mod
who exemplarised the best in Mod subculture. To be seen at a show
in old clothes was a sure sign of defeat and every effort was made for
the Mod to be seen in public in only his best. This ethic has continued
through Skinhead subculture and is today's standard as well. The
biggest event to our music-based subculture is a concert and it is a mockery
of this to come in anything less then our best. The standard has
been set and only cheapening our Mod ideal with sloppy hippie ideology
will change it.
Skinheads historically only wore suits to concerts but today the standard
includes a jacket worn over a nice shirt such as a Ben Sherman or Fred
Perry. Rude Boys may have not always had the money for suits but
this ideal is easily seen in the bands that became successful. And
this ideal is easier to attain for the contemporary Rude Boy.
Men’s:
The next issue of Razor Sharp will focus on men's fashion and gives
a detailed description of scene appropriate clothing. But briefly
the following is acceptable for a show: Suits or at least a jacket with
complementary slacks are the minimum. Mods and Rude Boys wear ties
and buttoning shirts. Skinheads can wear a more casual style of shirt.
At more raucous show a jacket can be dropped but I have been to a lot of
shows and never have I worried that a jacket could get damaged. The
jacket should stay buttoned except maybe the bottom button. Any scene
appropriate style of leather shoe (Docs for Skins and dress shoes for Mods
and Rudies) will work. Any other questions on details are answered
in the next issue of Razor Sharp which is a Men's Fashion special issue.
Women's:
Women have more options for shows since the standards for women's clothes
are newer to the scene. Regardless nicer clothes for shows are standard.
Dresses are ideal but skirts are also OK. Pants are too casual for
most shows. For Skinheads a Fred Perry or a Ben Sherman can take
the place of a blouse. Rude Girls can wear dresses such as can be
seen in ska publicity shots from the sixties. Leather shoes are good
(see the paragraph above). Tights are common for dressier occasions
such as shows. This is a good opportunity for special hairstyles,
a beehive or a bouffant and the like that are not convenient for everyday
wear. Mod Girls should focus on vintage clothes with modern lines
or similarly influenced newer clothes. Soon Razor Sharp will be compiling
an issue on women's fashion as well and the details will be discussed.