Driving at high Altitude

This information is for the Scout II with the stick Holley carburetor. Mine has the 345 engine with the 19 four-speed transmission and a three-core radiator.

First at altitude above 6000 feet your Calif. Smog carb is going to be believe it or not too rich, that is too much fuel going through the gets for the amount of air coming in through the carb venture. My carb had a #54 jet. I was advised to use a #50 jet but in the middle of nowhere, I could only scrounge up a #52 jet so I installed them.

Installing jets in the stock Holley carb involves:

1. Remove the choke linkage-note how the little bent rod on the throttle side sites.
2. Remove the accelerator pump linkage on the throttle side of the carb.
3. Remove the vacuum hose to the dashpot
4. Remove the phillips head screws on top of the carb; don’t miss the one in the middle and remove the threaded rod that holds the air cleaner on.
5. Gently lift the top of the carb straight up and set it carefully aside.
6. The tow jets are in the bottom of the float bowl. They are brass and are to be removed with a straight screwdriver. Read the number on the jet and buy one or two sizes smaller. They come in ever increments: 50,52,54. If your parts store doesn’t have them, your performance store will.
7. Put the new jets in and snug and put it all back together
8. At altitude, because less air-fuel mixture will be compressed you can advance the timing considerably. The Colorado Binder drivers recommended 10 to 15 degrees advance. Mine ran great at 12 degrees.
9. Cooling can also be a problem at altitude. Before going to the next
   RMR (and I shall go again), I will be sure my radiator is clean. Locals recommend a 170/180 thermostat and a 12 lb radiator cap. My scout was heating due to clogged radiator a parts man sold me a 16 lb radiator cap which eventually blew out an "O" ring on a water pump housing. But we did make it up Pikes Peak (14,500) There is no air up there what a view though