Aug 13, 1997

Late morning

After getting the necessary climbing permits, Jason, Dave and I start up from Paradise (5,400') to Camp Muir (10,188'). We pace ourselves and take our time to conserve our energy. And of course we get caught behind the 30-member traffic jam known as RMI. It is warm and clear, and we see two icefalls on the middle heights of the Nisqually Glacier.

Mid-afternoon

We throw our gear in the shelter at Camp Muir, eat dinner and chill with the rest of the folks up there. We also talk with Mike, whom we had met on the way up, and get things lined up. He wants to summit with us, so it is the four of us. We hit the hay around 7:00.

Aug 14, 1997

1:15 am

Time to get up. As I step outside the shelter I am amazed at how (relatively) warm it is. Crystal clear sky. We pack as light as is wise, get roped up and leave Camp Muir around 2:40. The majority of climbers has already left, leaving a single-file line of headlamps going up the mountain. What good fortune! Today is the peak of a meteor shower that catches our eyes frequently, making the whole experience even more unreal.

5:15 am

Disappointment Cleaver (11,500'). It has taken a very long time to reach this point. Although we have all tried various means to secure Dave's crampons to his boots, it is no use. Apparently they weren't fitted properly to his boots. As we have been slowed up considerably and Dave can not ascend without crampons, he has no choice but to go no further. About 5:30 we are greeted by the sun. Incredible. We resume our charge up to the top.

9:15 am

Summit!! Jason, Mike and I make it to Columbia Crest (14,411') after walking across the 1/4 mile, snow-filled crater and signing the summit registry. We are in a constant 50 mph wind, and the combination of cold temperature and blistering sun makes you hot and cold at the same time. The view is more than I can comprehend. Not a single cloud is hanging around. We have a view of 300 miles. To the north, Mt. Baker (10,778') and Glacier Peak (10,541') in Northern Washington stand on the horizon, while to the south there is Mt. Hood (11,239') and Mt. Jefferson (10,497') in Oregon. And Mt. St. Helens and Mt. Adams (12,276') look close enough to touch! We relax on the summit and take it all in for about one hour and forty-five minutes.

11:00 am

Although I want to stay on the summit all day, it's time to go down. So we begin our descent, stopping very few times.

1:00 pm

Back at Camp Muir. One of our friends has come up to meet us. Once I throw off my pack, I sit down and don't budge for about thirty minutes. I am fairly beat. We hang out for a while and then get back down to Paradise around 4:30. What a TRIP!!!

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