Rubberstamping Projects


Table of Contents

This page contains step-by-step how-to instructions for some really COOL projects.
Here is a list of current projects (just click on the project you are interested in!):

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this page!!


Balsa Wood Pins

What You'll need:
Stamp of your choice
Cardstock
Black ink pad
Markers or colored pencils
Glue, preferably Aleene's Tacky
Scissors
X-acto or craft knife and cutting mat
Emery board (nail file)
Pin back
Balsa Wood, about 1/8 inch thick and large enough that your stamped image will fit on it.

Step-by-Step:
1. Stamp you image on the cardstock with the black ink. Let dry. Color in as desired.
2. Cut image out just outside the line. Leave about a 1/32nd margin-very small.
3. Spread glue on the back of the image and place it on the wood. Allow to dry.
4. Using the craft knife, carefully cut the wood around the outside of the image. It really should cut pretty easy.
5. Use the nail file to sand around the edges of the wood.
6. Attach the pin back with Aleene's Tacky Glue. Allow to dry.

This can be done for just about stamped image. I made 45 4-leaf clovers for the employees at the place that makes my rubber sheets. Use it to make all kinds of pins.

Put in on the front of a card and give the card as a gift. Really nice.

Hope this was understandable!

Submitted by: Ginny Newman
Happy Rubber Stamps
4426 E. 118th Ct
Thornton, CO 80233-1781
Catalog $3.75
happyrubber@juno.com

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Dry Embossing

This is a simple and elelgant way to make ordinary stationary and cards into something very extraordinary!

What You'll Need:
Staionary or folded card
Stencil of your choice, (brass, plastic or homemade)
Embossing stylus, or a dry ball point pen
Window, TV on snow, or light box
Repositionable tape
Sponges or stencil brushes (optional, for coloring image)
Inkpads (optional, for coloring image)

Step-By-Step:
1. If you plan to color the image of the stencil, one way would be to use the inkpads and the sponges or brushes. Place the stencil down on the paper and sponge/brush the color over the stencil until you have the desired look. This may also be done after you emboss, but I like to do it first.
2. To dry emboss, place the stencil in the desired location on the front of your paper. Tape it in place if you need to with the removable tape.
3. Turn the paper and stencil over and place flat on the light source (windoe, TV or light box). You should be able to see where the stencil is under the paper. If your stencil is clear, you may not be able to see it. I stain the clear ones with black dye ink and wipe off the excess ink so I can see the stencil through the paper.
4. With the palm of your hand gently rub the back of the paper you will emboss on. This will transfer some of the oils of your skin and heat up the paper slightly so the stylus moves smoothly over the paper.
5. Using the stylus or ball point pen, trace the image of the stencil along the inside edges of it. This will raise the entire image on the paper. Trace the whole image before you peek to see if you've done good. It may be difficult to reposition the stencil back in place again.
6. When the image has been traced, turn the paper over and remove the stencil. You've just dry embossed!

Hints and Tips:
You don't need to buy those fancy brass stencils to do this. Your local craft store should have a wide selection of stencils for your walls. They will also have smaller stencils made of blue or pink plastic that will be the perfect size for cards and stationary. You can also make your own stencil with heavy cardstock and a craft knife.
One cool thing to try is color the stencil image before you emboss. Then position the stencil on another part of the card and emboss. This looks cool with a floral stencil. Color the flower and emboss the image in several different places on the card, but not right over the colored image. Let the embossed images overlap the colored image.

You can color the image in a variety of ways; chalks, watercolor, markers, sponging, stippling and blitzing. Try each one to see the difference each will make to the same design.

Submitted by: Ginny Newman
Happy Rubber Stamps
4426 E. 118th Ct
Thornton, CO 80233-1781
Catalog $3.75
happyrubber@juno.com

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Hidden Message Card Construction

What You'll Need:
Cardstock measuring 5.5 x 8.5 (This is normal "card" size)
Craft knife/cutting mat
Ruler
Pieces (2) of cardstock measuring 5 1/2 by 2 1/8

This will teach you construction of the card, after you make it decide what stamps to use in it.

Step-By-Step:
1. Fold large cardstock sheet like you would a regular card. Closed it should measure 5 1/2 by 4 1/4.
2. Open the card and position it in front of you so the fold is vertical (up and down). The sides of the card will then be folded in to the middle. Fold the left edge of the card, so the edge touches the fold line. Do the same for the right side. You now have what is called a "gate fold". It's also called a "french door" fold.
3. Unfold the card again so it is flat with all folds going up and down. Place the card on your cutting mat and make two cuts horizontal cut that go from the leftmost fold all the way to the rightmost fold. Make these cuts 1 3/4 inches from the top of the card and 1 3/4 inches from the bottom. To do this, measure from the top of the card at the left fold to 1 3/4 inches. Do the same on the right fold. Place the ruler at those marks and cut a line between them. Repeat for the second cut measuring from the bottom of the card up 1 3/4. The middle section of the card will be slightly bigger than the bottom and top section. This is fine.
4. Use the other two pieces of cardstock and weave them in the slits you made. Weave one piece in and out and the other out and in. You will understand better when you do it. You may have to shave a bit off of each piece on the 5 1/2 sides to get them to weave and fit nicely. They should be tight, but not so tight they cause buckling. They need to be able to hold themselves in the card when the card is held up.
5. Now, to find the hidden part of the card, you need to fold the sides of the card to the back so the right top corner and the left top corner touch. Then place your thumbs at the center fold (which is a weaved fold) and pry the two edges you see apart. It may take a few trys to "see" where these edges are, but the first time you get this to open you will always be able to see them! Open and close this card a few times to get the mechanics working smoothly. Then dig through your stamps to see which ones fit in the squares!

Hints and Tips:
This is a great card to use for invitations. Make surprise birthday party invites. It's always a good idea to enclose card opening instructions with the card, or you may not get many people at the party!

Do not be tempted to glue the weaved cards in place, there is no where to glue. All parts must be able to move, or the card won't open. The voice of experience here!

Submitted by: Ginny Newman
Happy Rubber Stamps
4426 E. 118th Ct
Thornton, CO 80233-1781
Catalog $3.75
happyrubber@juno.comGinny

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Laminated Pins

One of the greatest things about going to rubber stamp shows and conventions is the laminated pin swaps. You make a few dozen or so of the same pin and swap with others at the show. Don't forget to put your name and other info on the back, you may end up with a few new stamping buddies!

What You'll Need:
Favorite stamp- one that's really you but big enough to put a pinback on
Ink pads and markers in the colors you choose
Cardstock (white if you're going to stamp and color in)
Clear contact paper or cold laminate paper (office supply store carries this)
Scissors
Strapping tape

If you're going to have a pin with something hanging from it you'll also need:
1/8 inch hole punch
jump rings
tweezers or needle nose pliers (or your fingers if you don't have long nails)

Step By Step:
1. Stamp images on cardstock. If you're making many pins, I'd advise to stamp all the images first and work in mass production mode.
2. Color as desired. Cut out the images leaving a teeny border.
3. Peel the backing away from a piece of cold laminate paper and lay all images face down on the sticky side of the paper. If you're going to write your name and info on the back, do it now. Be sure to leave space above the info for the pinback. That way the info isn't covered by the pin. Lay another piece of laminate over the first, sticky side down. Rub all the images hard to make the paper stick and so the images show through with no cloudiness.
4. Cut all the images out of the laminate paper. Borders aren't necessary unless you want them. I never leave a border on mine, no problems.
5. If you'll be adding a dangly, use the hole punch to put the hole where you want it.
6. Use the jump rings to assemble your dangly to the pin.
7. Use the strapping tape to affix the pinback to the pin.

Hints and Tips:
Strapping tape is wonderful for attaching the pinback. E6000 glue is good, if you can stand the smell! But, hot glue will come off after awhile because of the slick surface of the laminate. And when you get home after a hard day of pin trading, the strapping tape can be peeled off if you choose to keep your pins in a binder for storage.

This is only one way of assembling pins. Others may have a different way they do theirs.

Submitted by: Ginny Newman (copyright 1997)
Happy Rubber Stamps
4426 E. 118th Ct
Thornton, CO 80233-1781
Catalog $3.75
happyrubber@juno.com

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Potato Carving

What You'll Need:
Medium to large sized raw potato (depending on the size of the image wanted)
Large kitchen knife (straight blade, so jagged edges)
Pen Felt tip works great
Craft knife
Cookie cutters (optional)
Craft paints (Deka, Aleene's Acrylic, etc.)
Foam brush or roller and foam tray for paints
Sad Empty wall or Sad Empty fabric

Step-By-Step:
1. Cut the potato in half with the kitchen knife.
2. Draw your image on the cut potato, start with easy designs. I started with a butterfly that I had from a stencil. Place the stencil on the potato and trace around the inside.
3. Use the craft knife to carefully cut away the parts not needed. Please! cut away from your hands, body and image.
4. Remember that the potato won't last more than a few hours before it begins to deteriorate, so have an extra drawing of the image so you can cut another stamp if needed.
5. Pour paint onto the foam tray and use the foam brush to apply the paint to the stamp. This is better than dipping. You have more control over how much paint goes on. You may also consider allowing the potato to sit for about 15 minutes after cutting the image to let it dry out slightly. Any more time than that and the potato will start to shrink and you'll lose some of the flatness of the image.
6. I used a t-shirt and stamped the butterfly on it several times in different colors. Then I made a grass stamp and stamped grass under the butterflies and got real brave and made a few flowers in the grass. If stamping on a t-shirt, be sure to put a brown paper bag under the front of the shirt between the layers. And don't pile on the paint!!
7. Stamping on wall is the same as the shirt, just vertical!

Hint and Tips:
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES CAN YOU STAMP A POTATO STAMP IN ANY OF YOUR STAMP PADS!!!!!!!! Was that loud enough? Don't do it. You'll be introducing water and starch into the ink pad and that's NOT good. Just don't do it.

The very nicest thing about using potatoes is that they can be thrown away after you're done! And they're cheap, too.

Another way to make the image is to use a cookie cutter. I put the cookie cutter into very hot water so it's really warm, then press it into the potato about a half inch. Leaving it in the potato, I can cut away the rest of the potato and have a perfect outline of what I want. Then if I want to define something in the images, I use a craft knife, or my lino cutters and carve out the stuff I don't need from the inside of the image. Very easy. Small cookie cutters can be had at most of those cool cooking stores in the mall-and for pretty cheap! I'm going this weekend to stock up!!

If anyone has any other ideas on how to use potatoes as stamps, please post!!!

Submitted by: Ginny Newman
Happy Rubber Stamps
4426 E. 118th Ct
Thornton, CO 80233-1781
Catalog $3.75
happyrubber@juno.com

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Shrink Plastic

What You'll Need:
Stamps desired
Shrink Plastic sheet
Colored Pencils
Fabrico Black Fabric ink pad
Scissors
Jewelry findings (jump rings for danglies, earring backs, etc.)
Hole punch (1/8 inch)
Hot Glue gun or Aleene's Tacky Glue
Heat tool or oven or toaster oven
Small hardback book
Fine grade sand paper
Acrylic spray or hairspray

Step-By-Step:
1. Spray a very thin coat of acrylic spray or hairspray on one side of the plastic sheet. This really needs to be thin, you're only doing this to give the plastic "tooth".
2. On the reverse side of the plastic, sand with fine sand paper in all four directions; up and down, side to side and both diagonals. You shouldn't be able to see through the plastic when you're finished. Wipe away dust.
3. Ink your stamp with the black fabric ink and stamp on the sprayed side. The spray should help you keep the stamp from sliding around and smearing.
4. Allow to dry and turn the plastic over. Color as desired on the sanded side with colored pencils. The directions tell you to color lightly as the color will intensify as it shrinks. I ignore that and color rather thickly. I like the color to be intense when shrunk!
5. Cut this out with scissors. If you need holes for jump rings or earring hangers, punch them now or never!
6. Preheat your oven or toaster over to 300 degrees. (From here we will fail to follow manufacturers directions!) Place your plastic items on a non-stick cookie sheet or a brown paper bag piece. The plastic will stick to other surfaces and cause distortion.
7. When heated up, place your stuff in the oven and set a timer for 10 minutes. Leave the room if you think you'll be tempted to take the plastic out before the timer dings. If not stay and watch! It's cool! By keeping the plastic in for this long, you guarantee no distortion. The plastic won't catch fine and will shrink perfectly.
8. When the timer goes off, immediately take the plastic out and while it's still very hot, press it under the book against the counter. This will ensure the plastic cools flat.
9. If you feel the piece needs an acrylic finish, spray it now. For the most part, you should need to, but if you feel it's necessary. The pieces should have a stained glass look with the black on one side and the color on the other.
10.Add findings to make jewelry and you're set!

Hint and Tips:

If you don't have Fabrico ink, permanent ink can be used. Be sure you have a solvent based cleaner and clean your stamps immediatley after stamping. The Fabrico ink cleans with water, so no solvent cleaner is needed. This saves your rubber as the solvent cleaner is as harsh to the rubber as the ink is!

Some prefer to heat shrink the plastic with their heat tool. This is fine, but the risk of burning yourself and blowing the piece to the floor is too great for me. Besides, for children, watching the plastic shrink in the oven is part of the fun.

Try tracing your kids hands and coloring for really cool earrings. Trace your own hand for a pin! Use a permanent marker for this, the Marveys won't do.

The shrink Plastic jewelry is a great thing to make for craft shows and bizarres. Last summer in FL, I made 180 pairs of earrings and pins to match. I sold them for $2.00 each and sold out during the weekend. I spent around $50. in plastic and findings. Talk about a profit!!!!

Try adding beads and embellishments to the finished products. To reverse an image, stamp the image on tracing paper and allow to dry. Turn the tracing paper over and trace the image with a permanent marker on the plastic. This way if you are making earrings, they can both face the opposite direction.

Hope this helps all of you who needed it!

Submitted by: Ginny Newman
Happy Rubber Stamps
4426 E. 118th Ct
Thornton, CO 80233-1781
Catalog $3.75
happyrubber@juno.com

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Stamp carving

This really is easy to do! And it's a lot of fun, too!

What You'll Need:
Saf-T-cut carving blocks from Nasco 1-800-558-9595 (my fav)
OR Staedtler Mars eraser large
Craft knife (X-acto style)
Pencil
Tracing paper
Lino cutters are nice to have if you find you enjoy carving!
Ink pads, paper

Step-By-Step:
1. If you are using an eraser, you'll have to clean it with nail polish remover and cotton balls. Clean the side that is NOT embossed. The Saf-T-Cut needs no prior cleaning.
2. To transfer an image to the Saf-T-Cut, simply draw on the tracing paper with pencil, place pencil side down on the Saf-T-Cut and rub. The pencil marks will transfer very well. You might try tracing a simple stencil outline and transferring that for the first try at carving. Transfer the image to the eraser with nail polish and cotton balls in a tapping motion. Dry eraser immediately after lifting the paper.
3. To cut out design, use the craft knife to cut around the outline of the design. Then cut horizontally into the side of the eraser to meet with the cut you made around the outline. The excess eraser can be taken off like this. The lino cutters make carving a breeze because they take the excess away as you're cutting. If you think you'd like carving, these tools are really where it's at! And they really aren't very expensive!
4. After you've carved the design and gotten rid of all the "crumbs", ink the stamp and print to see what you've done. If there are still parts you want carved more, feel free to carve them out. You'll be better able to see what you're doing now that the stamp has some ink on it. When you've have the carving the way you want, stamp on a piece of paper and send me a sample of your work! :)

Hint and Tips:
When you carve around the outline of the design, be sure to hold the knife straight up and down! Do not be tempted to uncut your design!!

Start with a broad design. A Leaf, or a flower are good to start with. They are easy to cut out with a craft knife and will give you the feeling of "Do I want to do this a lot?" If the answer is yes, GET THE LINO CUTTERS!!

Have fun and believe that when you're doing this, you will be pleased with the outcome. If you think you can't you won't!! If you think you can, you will!

Submitted by: Ginny Newman
Happy Rubber Stamps
4426 E. 118th Ct
Thornton, CO 80233-1781
Catalog $3.75
happyrubber@juno.com

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Ginny's Venetian Blind Card

What You'll Need:
80# or heavier card stock in 8 1/2 X 11 sheet
Thin ribbon, about 1 yard long
Heavy cardboard measuring 5 1/2 by 4 1/4
Spray adhesive or other aggressive glue
Ruler
Scissors
Scoring tool
1/8 inch hole punch

Step-By-Step:
1. Cut cardstock in half long ways so you have two pieces measuring 4 1/4 by 11.
2. Fold in half shortways so the card measures 4 1/4 by 5 1/2.
3. Measure, score, and accordian fold front of card horizontally in half inch intervals. First fold should be a valley fold. (Fold up)
4. Use hole punch to put holes along the sides of the folded front of the card. This is easiest to do if you fold the front and punch two folds at a time all the way up the sides of the card. Use the holes to line up where to punch the next set of holes.
5. When holes are punched along sides, smooth out the front and line up the front and back of card. Use the bottom holes as a guide and punch one hole on each side of the bottom of the back card. What you want is one hole on the two bottom corners of the back card.
6. Refold the front of the card and string the ribbon in the holes starting on the right side. Pull ribbon so there is about two inches of ribbon left on the right side of card. Take the ribbon over the top of the card and down the left side holes. String through the left back hole and around the back of the card and through the right hole of the back card. Restring the ribbon through the right side, over the top and back down the left side. You should have about two inches hanging on the left side when you're done. If not, adjust the ribbon by pulling and pushing ribbon around card.
7. Once you have the ribbon in and where you want it, smooth out the front and turn card over. Use the spray adhesive to spray the heavy cardboard and glue to the back of the card. You will glue over the back ribbon, so make sure the ribbon is flat and tight against the card.
8. String beads or sequins on the ribbon and tie knots.
9. Pull both ends of the ribbon to make the blind go up. You may have to do this several times before it becomes smooth. The heavier the paper the better. Be sure your folds are creased very hard.

Hints and tips:
Of course, you'll want to stamp and color before you fold and score the front!! Micheal's has these spools of ribbon on sale for .44 cents each. This is the ribbon that's best to use, at least this thin of a ribbon.

Have a great time!

Submitted by: Ginny Newman
Happy Rubber Stamps
4426 E. 118th Ct
Thornton, CO 80233-1781
Catalog $3.75
happyrubber@juno.com

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Shaker Cards

What You'll Need:
Folded Card 5 1/2 by 4 1/4
Postcard that measures the same
Foam board that measures the same as the postcard (fun foam will work, too)
VERY sharp craft knife
Stamp with large opening to be cut out: mason jar, party bag, lg. heart, etc.
Clear acetate for window
Glue stick
Pencil
Confetti, tic tacs, chiclettes, or other small candy
thin ribbon
White glue or tacky glue


Step-By-Step:
1. Stamp your image on the postcard, allow to dry and cut out center of image with the craft knife.
2. Lie postcard on the foam board and trace the cut out space onto the board with a pencil.
3. Cut out the traced area on the foam board with the craft knife about 1/4 inch outside the lines.
4. Glue the clear acetate on the back of the postcard as a window.
5. Glue the postcard over the foam board matching the edges.
6. Turn this all over and fill with confetti or other shaker stuff. I use chiclettes gum!
7. Take the folded card and glue it to the back of the filled foam board. If you are going to stamp something on the folded card to show through the cut out, do this before gluing to the foam board.
8. Take the thin ribbon and some white glue and glue the ribbon around the outside of the foam board. This will pretty up the edges of the foam board.

That's it!

Hints and Tips:
To cut the foam board, use a VERY sharp craft knife and cut a little at a time. Don't try to cut all the way through the board in one cut. Cut thinly many times. This will help keep the board from bunching up on you. Try using a ruler to help keep the board from bunching. You may also consider getting a hot X-acto knife. These slice through the foam like butter!

If you want to use fun foam, consider glueing two pieces together for thickness. Fun foam can be cut easily with scissors.

Submitted by: Ginny Newman
Happy Rubber Stamps
4426 E. 118th Ct
Thornton, CO 80233-1781
Catalog $3.75
happyrubber@juno.com

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E-mail me if you have any additions for this page!!

Revised: May 12, 1997 09:40 PM.

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