d r e s s, part one


d r e s s e s

The dress that was to re-invent women’s fashion was the so-called "sack dress", premiered in the 1957 Paris collections. Though it didn’t become popular all around the world, particularly England, it inspired a new, slimmer look in dresses, beginning with the sheath dress popular in late 50s Britain. By 1958 the square and rounded necklines had given way to a slim, "shirtwaister" dress, one with a button-down neckline and cinched waist which was popular with older women (think June Cleaver...) It was also at this time that the sack dress evolved into what was to become the most popular style of dress for the next decade...

The shift dress made its appearance in the late 50s - a slim fitting dress which, barely covering the knee, was scandalously short. It was initially quite popular in stripes and floral patterns (especially large roses), and in 1958 the Empire waist look was introduced. The look was adopted by teenagers, like the ton-up girls (later the Rockers) who wore leather shifts with knee-high black leather boots. By 1964 the teenage influence caused the hemlines to creep up, and most teenagers were wearing mid-thigh length shifts as daywear. The sweater-dress was also very popular with young people from 1961 onwards, until the mid-60s when other innovative designs were introduced. 1965 saw the premiere of culotte dresses in op-art or vibrant coloured patters, which were most popular as evening or party wear - the freedom of trousers but with the look of a full skirt. 1966’s dress was the tent, or baby doll, dress in transparent chiffon, worn over a contrasting slip, often sewn-in. And in the fall 1967 collections, the paper dress made its debut. Made of paper blended with Nylon or other cellulose material, it was intended for everyday wear but was only ever widely used as holiday or lounge wear, due to its tendency to crease and also its, er, flammability.

s k i r t s

The same year that the sack dress premiered, 1957, also saw the rising popularity of legs and shorter hemlines (and some would say the moral decline of society and youth!) 1957 and 58 saw the introduction of what would eventually become the baby-doll line, then called the trapeze line, and it’s scandalous hemline a whole 20 inches above the ground!!! Skirts became slimmer beginning in the late 50s and, aside from a brief 61/62 flirtation with flares, became quite straight, in what became known as the pencil-skirt look. Permanent box-pleats were popular in the early 1960s, as were reversible skirts, usually tartan, and from 1961-64, inverted front and back pleats.

The next skirt innovation was to come in 1966, the year of the mini-skirt. Widely acknowledged to be the brainchild of Mary Quant, within a year anybody who had the body to pull it off was wearing a mini, whose hemlines were 4-5 inches above the knee in New York and 7-8 inches above in London. Throughout this time skirts were often paired with a matching sweater and matching set of tights for a uniform look.

s h i r t s & c o a t s

Virtually all ladies shirts and tops fell under the heading of knitwear, with the button-through cardigan twin set being the most popular style throughout the 1950s and 60s. Teenagers in the late 50s and early 60s often wore chunky sweaters of double-knit wool or mohair, which they borrowed from their male friends. The hip-length or longer sweaters were paired with knee-length skirts or tight trousers. From 1960 onwards the turtleneck, or polo neck, sweater was common, especially under a collarless jacket, and in 1966 Aran sweaters, with their thick knit, became trendy.

Sleeve length was usually ¾ length, with long sleeves often pushed partway up the arms for a ¾ look. Sleeveless tops did not become truly popular until the mid 1960s.

The full-length, shawl-collared coats and furs of the 1950s gave way in 1958 to a straighter look, which remained in vogue throughout the 60s. In 1960 it was a straight coat with a wide-set upright collar (like a wide Nehru jacket). 1964 brought the reversible coat, usually in tweed and plaid, paired with a matching dress or suit. 1965 saw the mini-coat, perfectly straight and virtually shapeless, and also the pop-inspired dyed furs and PVC designs. By 1967 capes were popular, and were often made with matching deerstalker hats (no, thank you, not for me...)

t o d r e s s, p a r t t w o


i n d e x