Sometimes I think I'm the only one who understands what
true religion is.
It's that cozy state of mind where nothing is more apparent
than the unassailable
fact that each of us belongs here on Earth, and is deeply
loved by an enduring
spirit. If you've got that kind of religion, you want
to share it. If you've really
got that kind of religion nobody will mistake you for
a used god salesman.
That's your litmus test, my proselytizing friend, turn
one person off and it's
back to the pew for you. True religion is the light bulb
that just has to be flicked
on to attract a flock of worshipping moths. Amen. That
light bulb doesn't have
to convince the moths that it's burning bright (those
moths can tell and they
come a' runnin').
On Divisadero Street there is a pretty bright light bulb
that first appeared over
the head of Franzo King in 1971 when he had the idea
to organize the "One
Mind Temple Evolutionary Transitional Body of Christ,"
which would soon
evolve into Saint John's African Orthodox Church. Only
a small portion of the
population can see that light and recognize its truth.
Those that do, flock to it. They experience their religion
through music hearing it,
playing it, filling the pool on Sundays and Wednesdays
diving in and swimming in
it. It's the music of John Coltrane (1926-1967).
It overflows out onto the street
from the storefront church at 351 Divisadero near Oak.
Perhaps you've heard it.
Perhaps you've heard of it. Perhaps you're dying to hear
this: You are invited to
jump in, the water's fine -- flowing from the headwaters
of the heart of locally
cannonized Patron St. John Will-I-Am Coltrane, visionary
post-bop tenor and
soprano saxist, band leader and composer.
Bishop Franzo Wayne King dedicated the present "temporary"
church site on
Trane's birthday in 1972. Underway is a dedicated effort
to raise $100,000 to
move into a larger space which will better accommodate
the standing room
only congregation of worshippers and always welcome sightseers.
Two
Byzantine-inspired haloed images of Coltrane stare out
at them from exquisitely
painted icons by Rev. Marc C. E. Dukes. In each, St.
John is depicted with
saxophone in hand -- reinforcing the notion among newcomers
that this church is
really different but it's for real. Other icons show
a dark-skinned Jesus, and Madonna
and Child.
The Sunday Divine Liturgy lasts over three hours, starting
late for late-risers at
11:45. Coltrane's music swallows you up as you enter.
The curious, who don't
intend to stay past the playing of music (i.e. not through
the sermon), appropriately
populate the last three pews and standing room by the
door. A deacon of the church
is there to assist you to an open pew. You are treated
to the inspired sounds of
Bishop King, Ohnedaruth (the church band), guest soloists,
your neighbors and
yourself if the holy spirit moves you. Tambourines and
shakers move throughout
the congregation and many people bring their own instruments
to church with them.
A wooden toy train whistle and a recently acquired Hammond
organ create new
sounds spilling out onto Divisadero Street. And by around
1:30, so are many of
the back pew occupants. They have elected to deprive
themselves of the more
familiar nonmusical trappings of a Sunday church service.
A few weeks ago those
folks missed some humorous spontaneous riffing along
the lines of "TOOT TOOT
All aboard the Coltrane," the humble little train whistle
taking on a more and more
prominent role as the service steamed forward.
Also missed was Bishop King's incredibly literal reading
of the scripture story
about Mary and Joseph "losing Jesus" during a Passover
pilgrimage to Jerusalem,
and their subsequently "finding Jesus," not in a crack
house, but in the house of
worship. Bishop King has the ability to spiritually move
his congregation with words
as well as music.
When John Coltrane in 1957 experienced a spiritual
awakening (around the same time
that he was briefly teamed up with Monk) he "humbly asked
[God] to be given the
means and privilege to make others happy through music."
One visit to St. Johns
African Orthodox Church brings home the realization that
his prayer was heard.
You begin to realize that for a lot of people around
San Francisco, prayers voiced
for a place and manner of worship unlike any in the world
has been heard as well.
A Love Supreme seems to be alive and well and jamming
in the Haight.