Actually today at work I was soldering a panel and was really astonished at how well my soldering has improved by just following a few simple steps.

First let's start with the iron. Ever thought your iron didnt work???? Hear that one all the time. Once a month make it a habit to clean the connection of your iron tip. The bottom where it has the little temp number. Alcohol works well. Just enough to make it shine again.

For most things I use a 800 1/8 inch tip. That's small for some people. For small stuff it's great, for large lead projects at work I use a 1/4 800. A good all around for beginners is a 3/16 700.

The sponge. This is crucial for keeping the tip clean. I always wipe my tip off if there is any doubt in achieving that buttery solder line. Usually about every three minutes while soldering. This is important for lead because if you are not getting a fast flow melt of the solder you are gonna get nervous and melt the lead. Make sure its a natural sponge, the others will just burn and that stinks.

Flux is crucial in achieving your beautifully crafted piece. Apply enough flux to let the solder flow evenly, too much and the flux will sizzle and pop and possibly get in eyes...speaking from experience.....A good tip I learned at work is to flux your solder too. This helps the flow of things.

I use Canfield 50/50 for almost everything...60/40 works in case 50/50 is not in stock. If your planning on some decorative soldering a 3/16 600 degree tip is a good choice because the solder doesn't melt as fast due to the lower temp allowing you to "sculpt" the solder. I've also been known to use the 600 tip for fixing major booboos on lead and then going back with the 800, carefully.

Remember to always use good ventilation and even a fan or a fume trap. Always wash the flux off of your piece and always wash your hands after working with solder.

Buttery Smooth Solder Lines-July 1998............

Assuming you read the last Tech Tips you should be equipped with a well functioning soldering iron that really does work. O.k. so here it is. What I have learned, to help you in achieving a nice bead to finish off your project.

First I make sure I have the pieces positioned how I want them, so if there are any gaps at least I can even out the distance between one the pieces in relation to the others. This will help if your having trouble with those jagged looking transition lines. If you are doing this, make sure you tack solder it a few places around the pieces before you lay your bead because they will slip over and your outta luck sometimes. If your raising pieces, raise them individually, tack solder, sometimes you need to raise a few with pins.

Flux. This should have come first maybe, very important I feel. I am very picky about my flux application. I use one of those little metal brushes, their like ten cents a piece at your glass store. Johnsons flux is definetely my favorite. Flux the solder your working with, about as long as the piece you will use in the next few minutes. For lead the flux is very important, to achieve a smooth look of the solder joints, causing the lead to seem seemless!

Well then there's the solder. Canfield 50/50 for flat panels. O.k. Now you have tacked the pieces in place, fluxed now you're gonna lay down a bit of solder. Before you start, your iron is hot, wipe the iron off on the sponge. Then start on a line, lay down a blob of solder. Melt it and spread it back and forth slowly until you get a nice, even, seemless line. (This is for foil by the way so don't use this blob/spread technique for lead, sort of the same but not as relaxed).

Start at the places where lines meet and form X 's and Y's. Remember again to clean the tip with your sponge. Lay a blob down and start in the middle, then spread it out evenly, you will have to do this fast at the intersections, to get a seemless look. Remember again too that if your iron is not getting hot enough than you will have a hard time getting the blob to spread. Then go and add your lines. If your left with places that have a stop, or one of those waves then just flux it and lay your iron on it until it smooths out evenly. You can always smooth things out if you are patient and have a hot tip!

Copper Foil, it's not that bad...August 1998

Well I have to admit this is honestly a pretty boring topic. So I guess you will have to bear with me,*s*. It's that stuff that most people do not like to do, in fact some people make other people do it, and when they do it, thay are almost always watching television. Sound familiar? Well I guess there might be a few interesting things like.....
There are many sizes of copper foil as well as Silver backed, Black backed, and decorative, and even sheets for overlay. The one that I use most is the masterfoil 7/32. The masterfoil is a thinner mil foil and it is easier on the fingers if you foil a big project or a lot of projects. The 3/16 is great for thinner glass or for small pieces of glass. The silver backed foil I use for clear glass only, you won't notice it on anything else. If you are doing really small wings and stuff use 3/16 to get small solder lines. The black backed is nice but not really a must have when you have silver backed.

The only tools you need include a fid(those plastic things) to burnish the foil down flat, an exacto knife with a very sharp blade(you might want to buy a box of blades if you foil a lot) if you use a dull blade the foil can get pulled off instead of being cut when you trim the seam. I highly recommend one of those foil caddies, and if you need to, write the size on the inside of the foil rolls to keep track of the size and backing. "Do those foil thingies that do all the work for you really work??". Well this guy walks ito the shop I work at and asked me to thread his new foiler. It took me about a half hour to figure the thing out. And he ended up not a happy customer cause he thought it was supposed to make life easier. Now I think the auto foiler machine is good for someone that has arthritis or some other ailment but otherwise it is a waste of money.

Some tips on foiling. Have a plastic container next to your grinder with water deep enough to dip you glass into. When you grind a piece, dip it into the water, then simply dry it off on a towel next to yuor grinder. Your glass will be ready for foiling. If you are sweating, then you have trouble. In the summer this is a problem so just keep cool, literally, and not. Always try to hide the seam in the border or if you are not adding a border then make sure you have the seam( the beggining and end of the foil) on the inside of the window. If you have really severe corners that you know are going to split the foil and form that open V shape, then you can pre patch them by laying the foil on the corner where it will split. Then trim it, when you foil the piece, the foil patch will be underneath and won't come off like the after patch. Keep your foil in a ziploc bag if your gonna let it sit around, and if you have foiled pieces that need to be soldered you better solder them. Put them in a ziploc too if you need to.

Foil overlay is just simply using foil to make a pattern that is then tinned with solder. It can make nice silhouettes of anything. It can be used for a world of ideas! Go try it today!