BTW, you ,might have problems finding someone to make plug wires for the Dyna coils (nobody in Ohio seems to make custom wire sets anymore). If so, check out boat shops. I found most of them can make custom wire sets.
To adjust the stock points system, Ray Wooldridge <wooldray@volcano.net> sez: I have never in my life adjusted the points using a test lamp via the dynamic method. Ive always used a timing light and dwell meter. Voltage to both sets of points should be equal--or at least VERY close.
First clean the points. You will need to gently file the points using a flex-i-file. I always got mine from the Snap On truck. They are actually designed for voltage regulators. Sort of like small strips of thin cardboard with sand paper on it. I like to avoid the metal files. Spray the file with some contact cleaner and with the points closed start to file gently in a criss-cross pattern. When the points look and feel smooth stop. Take a CRISP bill. $50's are preferred-- $100's if you got em. ( but in a pinch you can use a $ 1.00 bill) but it should be a crispy, new bill. Spray a corner of the bill with contact cleaner and drag it through the closed points. Repeat several times until there is no longer any black or brown debris coming out onto the bill. Rotate corners and respray with contact cleaner. Save one corner for the last dry drag. By the time you get to this step the points should be very clean. Repeat the process with the other set of points. Use another crisp bill for the 2nd set of points and repeat the process again. Now its time to set the gap.
Assuming that you have a clean dry straight feeler guage you can adjust the gap to .012-.016" I would prefer to use the .016" for better coil saturation. If you have stock coils you need every bit you can get. Use a very slight drag for setting the points.
Be sure to check the yellow and the blue wires coming from condensers and from the wiring harness for corrosion. Lightly sand the connectors and put some dialetric grease in these connections. Be sure they are very snug. Crimp the female terminals to achieve snugness--sounds sort of risque--doesnt it.
Check the terminal that connects to the points-- is it on the insulator side and not connected to the points ground. Make sure that the terminal is not rotated so that it hits the backing plate and that when the cover is on that it doesnt hit it either.
Be sure that at the points there are 2 insulator washers and 1 insulator spacer that goes between the 2 insulator washers. That spacer is important.
Another thing about ignition timing proceedure----
I have in my tool box a bottle of VERY red fingernail polish---I use this to mark the timing marks on the flywheel---I only mark the "F" mark and the 2 advance marks-- then I DRAIN out about 2.0 quarts of oil from the engine (always knowing that there is still about 2.0 quarts left)---this way the oil does not sling onto the flywheel and obscure the timing marks-- Ive used this method for 23 years now and Ive seen GL1000's that still have the red polish on them--it does turn a shiny brown after a while but still shows up good for timing purposes--
Ignition timing----the point gap is supposed to be set from .012--.016" but it really works good if you can set it with a dwell meter. Ive used 22 1/2 degrees for the dwell (or increments thereof). On different meters it may read 45degrees. The point is that the 22 1/2 reading seems to add a little crispness to the throttle-- has worked good for me--THEN BE SURE TO REFILL THE OIL-AND CHECK THE DIPSTICK OR THE WINDOW---- this is my disclaimer!! Dont settle on 22 or 23--go for the exact 22 1/2 measurement-
Now--- if youve done all this and the voltage to the either of the points is still low and the light is still dim then there must be a problem with the wires in the harness between the condensers and the coils. Youll just have to trace them down with a mult-meter.
And if that doesnt work--------dump the points and get the Dyna system.
I normally dont care for aftermarket ignition systems. I got
a real bad taste in my mouth back in the '70's when they left several of
my customers dead in their tracks with no spark and no way to fix it.
At least with points you could usually piece something together to at least
limp home or
to help. With the electronic systems it was usually all
or nothing. And nothing means no spark and thats a drag!
Maybe they are better now. Ray Wooldridge <wooldray@volcano.net>
The list's feelings on tires run around Bridgestone Spitfires if you
can fit them, then the Dunlop K491 Elite II. Don Luther <lux43@sonic.net>
likes Cheng Shin Barracudas. Dave "Renegade" Haggard will only run Bridgestone
Spitfire 11, soon to be discontinued and replaced by the Bridgestone Battlax
BT17. The Bridgestone Spitfire 21 are recommended more for the
1500s. I as yet have no info on steel belted radials.
Joe Drummond recommends 412 Progressive shocks (gas charged) on the rear and standard weight Progressive fork springs on the front, but he is a Canadian, and we all know what that means...
Honda radiator fluid is a favorite of the list. Always use a non-sicilate radiator fluid or it will literally sandblast your water pump apart.
But Honda isn't the only antifreeze without silicates. GM makes one called "DEX-COOL" and Prestone makes one that is called "Extended Life 5/150". Picked up my copy of the Prestone stuff at the local Hi-Lo auto parts store. I think it was about a buck more expensive then their regular anti-freeze but can't swear to it now. May be cheaper than the Honda brand, not sure. Bill O'Brien <obrienwj@hal-pc.org>
Jim Wiley recommends aftermarket cams: "I added the Web cams (milder
of the two sets available). You snap the throttle a 3 grand and almost
immediately you are a t red line except in 5th gear, it takes slightly
longer in 5th."
The name of the outfit who grinds them is Web, Inc. on the west coast.
They are wholesale, and are available through a motorcycle machine shop.
The one Jim deals with is Western Performance. (neither I nor Jim could
find the website, but Jim claims it does exist.) They are located
in Commerce City, CO and the owner's name is Bill. He also builds
dragstrip bikes. (I did find a phone book listing for Western Performance
6045
E 76th Ave # 9 Commerce City, CO (303) 853-0337)
Change your cam belts if you don't KNOW they are perfect. The GL1000 will self-destruct if a belt breaks or slips. Game over.
Most people only use Honda belts because if the belt breaks, it's all over. But Duq <duq@irelands-web.ie> says: Perhaps this is old news to the lot of you, but just in case: Timing belts are expensive; out here there about 35 quid each, which is about 50 dollars. The cheap way of replacing your belts is to order: Gates Powergrip 5119 (41087x3/4), as used in Honda TN Acty. Less than half the price! They also seem to have been used for some Mitsubishi, but I don't know the model or year.
If you put too much pressure on the tensioner the belts whine like crazy.
Go back and re-adjust again.. you might have to
repeat the process. This was mostly on 1500's but the belts/tensioner
set up is the same for all models (not the same parts exactly but the same
general setup) Ive even tried replacing the tensioners without success.
There should be some lateral play in the rollers when you have them in
your hands. So that is not a problem. They should spin freely
and they only go out when they have some seizure signs.... they sound ok
now. Ray Wooldridge <wooldray@volcano.net>
One general rule of thumb has been to replace the tensioners when the belts are replaced... but I dont buy that. I think the tensioners will last a looong , loooong time and if you replace them one time at 100,000 miles you might NOT really need to. Of course... proper maintenance is important. If the gaskets on the belt covers allow water inside it will lead to accelerated tensioner failure. Also.. if the belts are allowed to get very slacked... that will lead to tensioner failure. So I guess ... all things being equal....I would just wait till the tensioners make some God awful noise (which is what they will do when they finally go out) and then replace them. Ray Wooldridge <wooldray@volcano.net>
You can modify covers (timing belt) so you can remove them without removing
the radiator. You probably won't be surprised if I tellyou that I've modified
mine. What I did is to use a short bolt to serve the function that the
inner bolts have of fastening the shim behind the tensioning pulley. Then
I plugged the inside hole in each cover with some nylon bolts and nuts,
and fastened
the covers on with only the outer bolts. (the ones you can get to)
I've never had them shake loose and it encourages you to keep tabs on your
belts, since it now is so easy to do. Don Luther <lux43@sonic.net>
Don't bother with slick50 oil. It may ruin your transmission. No info is available on using slick50 in your final drive.
The Super Brace ( http://www.superbrace.com/sblist.html )front fork brace is recommended to decrease "wobble" at speed. Be careful. There are TWO units for the GL1000, one for 75 to 77, the other for 78 and up.
The internal drive chain does not have an adjustable tensionear like a CB750-4, and so may rattle on startup.
The rumbling noise you get on old 1000's is your primary chain that's rattling. Therefor it disappears when you rev it up, 'cause it gets constant tension then. When rebuilding my engine I fitted a chainspanner from a K3. Difference is that on K1 and K2 they fitted a static guide-plate, whereas K3 and onwards got a springloaded plate. Result: less noise... By the way, mine is a '76 K2. There's a list in most workshop-manuals to determine what series you've got from the engine-number. Duq <duq@irelands-web.ie>
The valves may leak some oil into the left cylinders during the night if left on the sidestand. This is common and can produce a blue puff from the left exhaust on the first startup of the day.
A leak out of the small hole in back of the water pump is the water pump's mechanical seal leaking. Its is part of the pump and therefore the pump (and related o-rings. seals and crush washers) must be replaced. Chances are that when you replace the transmission cover gasket (the one you have to remove in order to take out the water pump--- the big one....) you will cure an oil leak from the transmission cover also. Make sure to clean the gasket surfaces very well and clean all oil and grease off the gasket surfaces before reapplying the gaskets. Ray Wooldridge <wooldray@volcano.net>
Dan Barnes <drb@mc.net> had an brake piston on his 77 GL1000 that wouldn't extend. One side of the dual piston unit was stuck. Air pressure would not force it out. His solution was to get a bolt that fit the fluid line and drill out and tap in a grease fitting. Clamp the side that is free and loosen little by little until the grease forces the stuck piston out. Works nicely and you won't scratch the piston.
Frank Marx <fransm@telebyte.nl> maintains an on-line Honda microfiche-style parts book for the GL1000 at http://www.oocities.org/MotorCity/Downs/6626/partsindex.htm
<dsenator@juno.com> recommends if you are buying a bike that has sat for years, before you try to start it, clean out around each spark plug with canned air from Wally Mart or car parts place, if no compressed air is available. Remove the plug and squirt in some light oil, into each and every cylinder; about a tablespoon is enough. Let sit a day, then try to crank it WITHOUT the plugs in it. This gives the rings a chance to loosen up a bit if some rust is on them. If you do this it will lessen the wear on the cylinders. You can put new plugs in if they look bad, AFTER, you crank it a little while. I have a buddy who is anal rententive, he even removes the valve covers and squirts some light oil on the cam lobes as well as into the cylinders. Guess it must work for him, his bikes are all older finds.
I was going thru some older WOTI and saw a post about anything over
100 psi being ok for an older wing. I just wanted to say that if
I had a Wing that only had 100 psi compression I'd be tearing it down for
a rebuild or at least checking it out why its so low. Low compression
is one of the most commonly missed reasons for poor idle and driveability-
Have you ever had a problem where the engine wants to idle too high -then
when you adjust the throttle screw down the engine will idle for a few
seconds and then die?? Check the compression before you tear the
carbs apart-- if you can you should always do a leak down test-- if you
can't then do a second compression test this time with a table-spoon
of light oil into the spark plug hole (its called a wet test)-- if the
compression goes up dramatically then the rings are the problem--if the
compression doesn't go up that much then its probably the valves leaking.
If the time comes that you ever have to do some engine work and the valves
are in question----DO NOT EVER---EVER---EVER---GRIND HONDA VALVES!!!
Don't let any machine shop tell you that it's ok to grind them!!
Honda valves have a very hard but very thin coating on them call stillite
(sp?) anyway--if they are ground down the stillite coating
is distroyed-- Replace the valves if in question ( this came up with customer
recently when I found out the local machine shop had ground his valves--cost
him twice!!--dont know if he ever got his money back from the machine shop?)
Ray Wooldridge <wooldray@volcano.net>
Apparently the highly reccomended AC Delco R121XLS spark plug is no longer so good. Many people find manufacturing inconsistanceies. The reccomended plug is now the Champion RA4HC.
If you need to replace your thermostat, get the thermostat part # from Honda, then call a car dealership (Honda) and ask if that part # fits anything. Once you know the model and year of the car it fits, go to Chief and pick up a cheap one to fit. Around $5. That's what I did on my '79. Replaced with a lower temp which Honda motorcycles said wasn't available. J.R. Ferguson <jrferg@airmail.net>
My bike mechanic told me NOT to oil the speedometer cable! He said to use graphite, because the way the cable turns, it drives the oil into the speedometer and ends up messing it up. Gorden Dickinson <gorden@sound.net>
The "timing plug" is the way to go but I heard that they were
no longer available-- Ive had mine since '75 so have never checked--but
a customer told me how he made one---got the stock plug and used a grinder
to cut out
the flat on the bottom----then he used a small piece of clear plastic
(not the plastic wrap--hard plastic) and glued it in. Threaded
it into the hole in the engine case and used his timing light--worked
good--- Ray Wooldridge <wooldray@volcano.net>
I know people have been looking for the timing cap sight glass for timing,
and I found that it is now available again through the
Honda dealer network. The part number is 07999-3710001, and costs
about $18. They won't have it listed, but if they put that number
in their computer, they'll find it for you. Stephen Traver <traver@capital.net>
Fork oil Capacity: GL1000 and GL1100, 175cc both shocks. There is nothing wrong with ATF except inconsistancy. You can go anywhere from 5 weight to 30 weight, depending on the batch at the time it was packaged. Most prefer a good 15 weight (95%) but some are happy with 10 weight.ATF is whatever is in there,and you don't know. Ken Weston aka "Grumpy" <grumpy@toad.net>
Backfiring above 3000 RPM may be caused by the advance cam being stuck in the low rpm or idle range and can't advance properly. Pete Boody
There is an easier way to remove the gas tank than what is in the Clymer
manual. Mr Clymer screwed up big time, BUT.....so has your advising wrench.
Follow all the sets Mr Clymer spelled out, until he tells you to bring
the tank out up through the
frame. STOP!. Do not pass go, do not collect $200.00. Right there,
go to the page where it describes removal of the rear
wheel, including hanging the caliper off to the side, remove the rear
fender,upper and lower halves and bring the tank out BACK through the frame
without removing the swingarm. Mine is a '78 so the exhaust was not a problem
as mine is seperate units. You may have to drop yours. Any questions you
have feel free to email me and I'll actually get the manual out of my shop
and lay it out for you step by step and page by page, but I think this
is enough as I think you are almost deep enough now. Does the entire bike
look like a bomb went off under it? If so, you're almost done. Good luck
and feel free to email me with any problems....I love solving all problems
that aren't mine!!! Joe Drummond <jdo@MNSi.Net>
Wing World (GWRRA) had an article about replacing the low rpm air intake jets with another size to eliminate hesitation and dying at takeoff. I did this to my 76 and it worked, but I lost the article. It was reprinted around 1993, I think. I wish someone could find it and email it to me.
Rejet the #62 jets to #68. that will get rid of the "stumble" off idle. Ray Wooldridge <wooldray@volcano.net>
The Clymer book (for the GL1000) has the wrong locations of the 2 air jets located under the little kidney shaped plate at the top of the carb. I ran my bike for a couple of years like this and performance was terrible!!! Jim Miller <jimmiller@dataexchangeinc.com>
I have wanted to balance my carbs, but I need something like Dennis Kirk's $40 "amateur" 4 chamber mercury manometer http://slicks.denniskirk.com/cgi-bin/dkonline.storefront/759060068/Product/View/28-273. Should I go to a gauge company and build my own? I'd only like to spend around $50 on this. But I would think I can find 4 vacuum gauges and rubber hose for under $25 a piece if I can figure out the general vacuum range. What is a normal reading? Does the 76 GL1000 use 5 mm, 6 mm, or some other thread on the vacuum ports? Anybody have a 4-gauge manometer that they are done with and want to sell? Loan? Rent?
Ray Wooldridge <wooldray@volcano.net> wrote about cleaning carbs:
There IS difference between a 'cleaning' and a 'rebuild".
Cleaning means just that--clean the carbs without replacing parts.
This is usually done by pulling the carbs off and disassembling the bowls,
jets, float and valves, vacuum piston and chamber, needle jet and jet needle,
air jets and cleaning them. Reassembly after cleaning (use a good
quality carb cleaner--the Honda
stuff is pricey but it cleans a LOT better than most on the market--others
may be as good-I use the Honda carb cleaner--since I work at a Honda dealership
its real easy to get). At this stage the carbs are not seperated
nor are the center air chamber disassembled.
To clean the jets and other metal parts-soak the parts in the carb cleaner
(spray some cleaner into the plastic cap and cover the jets,etc.
DO NOT soak anything that is plastic, rubber or has rubber/plastic in it!!
Some things that should not be soaked are float valves, air cut valves,
fuel hose, float bowl gaskets, o-rings, manifolds, and the vacuum chamber
cover (1000's only). Depending on how dirty the carbs are the soaking
could take from 1 hour to overnight. Soaking for longer than 2-3
hours may cause discoloration but its removable with some rubbing or a
metal brush (these brushes resemble large tooth brushes-usually available
at discount tool stores) DO NOT ever run wire through a jet--the
wrong size wire can screw up a jet so that it is usless. Honda makes
a 'cleaning kit' that has specific sized wires for specific sized jets.
Im still not a big fan of the wire use--I believe that if the jet wont
clean by soaking and blowing it out with compressed air then its time for
a new jet. Dont soak the vacuum chamber on the 1000's since the top has
a plasic cover on it and will get eaten by the carb cleaner. Now
for something that is often overlooked--cleaning the vacuum piston and
the vacuum chamber. Both need to be cleaned and checked for any seizing,
gauling, wear. They should slide smooth and easily. With the
chamber upside down---allow the piston to move up and down gently--it should
not hang up and be a VERY close fit--dont mix them up-they are matched
to each other. Its not so much a problem if they are swapped from
one carb to another but make sure the piston and chamber stay as a matched
pair. Take a rag and wrap in around a piece of wooden dowl.
Soak the rag with carb cleaner and clean the outside of the piston shaft
and the inside hole of the chamber..Repeat until perfectly clean. Again
check for the piston movement in the chamber--it HAS to be perfect or it
will hang up and act like a dead cylinder a some rpm range. Repeat the
cleaning on the outside skirt of the piston and the outside hole of the
chamber-if there is slight gauling or seizure take some wet/dry paper (the
really fine grit) and gently dress it up--dont go overboard. Now for the
disclaimer------Since most of these bikes are 20+ years old its really
not too likely that your going to be able to get away with just a cleaning--some
sort of rebuild is going to be needed--thats we are going to go.....next
time.
Notice that I didnt cover the reassembly after the cleaning nor the adjustments--some things just cant be completely covered here and besides--thats what the service manuals are for-
On specific parts:
The float needles-- look on the black tit--clean it with contact
cleaner or carb cleaner. Use some sort of lint-less rag to dry it
off. With a magnifing glass carefully inspect the black tit for any
ring around the middle. If there is a ring then it should be replaced.
Ideally the SEAT should also be replaced. This is not always possible
since some models have the seat pressed into the carb and is not available
seperately. Also check the spring return on the other end.
It should push in and out with spring tension pushing it back out.
If stuck then replace the valve.
The jets-- under most all circumstances the jets can be cleaned with carb cleaner. Let them soak overnight and then blow them out with compressed air. If they wont come clean then replace them.
The needle jet/jet needle-- this one is a little tough to
tell if its worn out or not. The way I do it is to inspect the jet
needle and look for a dull appearance in the middle of the needle.
Perhaps the best way to tell if the needle jet/jet needle is worn is to
screw in the idle mixture screw. If the engine runs better when its all
the way closed then the needle
jet/jet needle is worn out. They are both sold by Honda as a
set. Always replace both if replacing either.
floats--- check the float level (as per specs) If it is off then the float may need to be replaced. If you replace the float ALWAYS replace the float valve at the same time. The float can wear out-- inspect the area where the float valve contacts the float. It will appear as a small dot on the float. Floats are not cheap. There is a method I use to readjust the float level without having to replace the float but I DO NOT RECOMMEND IT unless : 1) you have a professional grade heat gun ( a standard hair dryer does not put out enough heat) and 2) you can judge when to quit heating the plastic before it melts and 3) you dont mind burning your fingers ( youve got to hold the float as you heat it- this way you have less chance of melting the float- you dont want to burn your fingers/hand.) When the float is slightly soft then move the floats to the new postions to get the proper float height. Like I said-- this is not normally done unless by a professional. And a lot of professionals wont do it either-- Ive gotten good at it and it saves some money. Keep in mind that there is not guarantee that this will work every time I do it-- sometimes I slip up and have to replace a burnt or melted float. I talk to my customers before hand so they are aware of the possible alternative.
On the 21 mm measurement for the floats, Ive been measuring from the
raised ridge of the carb body. A general rule of thumb is that the
flat bottom of the float should be parallel with the gasket surface.
Its also best to slightly tilt the carbs to put slight pressure on the
float valve when making the measurement. The set of carbs I
worked on last week set up this way worked great. Yeah the pictures in
the manuals arent real great but I got out my magnifing glass and it looks
like the picture shows the raised ridge as the point of measurement. Another
way that I find the proper level is to leave the bowls off and turn the
carbs right side up. I use a set of spacer blocks ( that I
made for things like this) that hold up 3 floats so that the valves are
closed. I measure the last float when I hook up my aux. fuel tank
and move the float up and down. When it shuts off the fuel I make my measurement--
then repeat the proceedure with the remaining floats --one at a time--
Its messy and for GOD SAKE stay away from any flame or spark or anything
else that could cause fire. But it works good.
Another item to check is the piston diaphram and body. When they
are removed and you are holding them upside down in your hand the piston
should move up and down with no resistance and very smoothly. If
there is any hang up or tight spots then some VERY FINE emery cloth
(600 grit or finer) can gently take out a spot. Do not go crazy with
this and sand out the whole
surface. Clean out the rod in the center with carb cleaner and
then use a rag-- dont use paper towels. They leave lint. Clean
out the rod hole in the diaphram body. Use the same technique with the
carb cleaner and lintless
rag.
All of this assumes that the carb bodies have already been cleaned and checked for air and fuel passage. Blowing through the passages with compressed air is recommended. Follow the passages and be sure that they are clean. Spraying contact cleaner through the passages and watching it exit is an excellent way of being sure the passages are clear. It is just as important for the air passages to be clean as the fuel passages. Ray Wooldridge <wooldray@volcano.net>
ATF makes a great carb and fuel injector cleaner, but I wouldn't use it on any "pollution-controled" vehicle. The ATF won't burn completely and may cause problems with the oxygen sensor and converter. You may see some "white-ish" smoke from the ATF, but that's normal. The ATF will clean the stuff it comes in contact with, and is a good lubricant. Just don't use more than a quart in about 20 gallons or you might end up with fouled plugs. Gorden Dickinson <gorden@sound.net>
Air sometimes leaks at the carb tops where the plastic piece is when they will get old. Ralph Alexander <ralex@pan-tex.net> epoxied US nickels to the carb tops to solve this.
Dave Duncanson has available a good article on GL1000/1100 double barrel Webber carbs and the SuperCharger by CC Products at http://www.oocities.org/MotorCity/8425/ if you are interested.
The one mod I highly recommend was the first I did, I run the carbs
off a 83 1100. I have very little use of my left arm and I needed
the bike to leave a stop light a little brisker. The 1100 carbs are
2 mm smaller than the 75-77 and 1 mm smaller than the 78-79 models.
Honda also saw fit to install a accelerator pump on these carbs.
The smaller carbs really helped the crusing speed passing performance while
the accelerator pump help me launch the bike. Paul R. Buettner
I find that the GL1000s die at idle if the batter isn't 100%. If your battery is a couple of years old, you might think about replacing it. IMO, use of a SuperSmart (brand) "Battery Tender", 12v@1.25A with automatic float charging and polarity protection for $47.99 ( http://www.batterytender.com/portable.htm ) could help.
I like the Yusa Yumicron CX Y50-N18L-A-CX for a battery.
I attended the Yuasa battery seminar while at Hoot. I learned that a
battery will discharge 50% in 41 hours at 130 degrees. Certainly typical
in a Texas garage this time of year. Also, the same battery will discharge
50% in 28 DAYS at 32 degrees. Sulfuric acid and water separate during a
low charge condition. Their recommendation is to leave the bike on an automatic
battery charger anytime the bike is not being used. These statements can
be backed up in the Yuasa Battery Maintenance Manual,
available directly from Yuasa. Marty <mkdavis@nationwide.net>
Pete Boody says you should check the integrity of the connection at
the plug connector coming from the alternator.
This can be the nasty culprit causing the problem. Some GL1000's
actually "fried" at this point, causing little contact. This then
caused more resistence and things get worse.
The connector in question is located under the left side cover next
to the battery. You will see the wiring coming out of the stator,
trace it to the plug. The plug is 3 prong all yellow wires.
Melting of these plugs have plagued the Wing from the start. It became
so bad that Honda released a kit to repair the wiring. Part number
31105-ML8-305 contains both male and female plugs with about 6-8 inches
of wire and shrink tubing. I believe the melting is caused by a low
battery that is charged by running the bike. If you keep a battery
tender on the bike when it is not in use the problem seems to be lessened
or does not appear at all. Paul R. Buettner
The "right" octane is the one that: doesn't knock, gives you the best
performance and gas mileage, and matches or exceeds the manufacturer's
octane recommendation. If regular doesn't knock and the performance is
acceptable,
then run regular. My '77 GL1000 has a knock in hot weather with regular
fuel. Having eliminated all other possibilites of carbon buildup or mechanical
interference first, I find that premium fuel stops the knock. For my individual
GL1000, I must run premium. You can not draw any hard rules on fuel octane.
Every machine is different. Start with the manufacturer's recommendation,
then experiment and keep records. Dave "Renegade" Haggard (MCI) <dave.haggard@mci.com>
Mobil 1 seems to be the favorite oil of the list.
On 75 GL's the window is flat--- On later model 1000's (I think it was 77 when it started) there is a little black screw in the middle----if you turn the screw with a flat blade screwdriver---- it will turn a little wiper on the inside to wipe off any oil film that may have built up---makes seeing the oil level easier. Ray Wooldridge <wooldray@volcano.net>
why did the window get replaced by the dipstick (no this isnt a 'chicken
crossed the road' joke)
From Honda--" customers complained about having to stoop down
or get on their knees in order to see the oil level window"!! Ray Wooldridge
<wooldray@volcano.net>
I still want a chrome aftermarket oil dipstick like the one at http://www.wingthings-texas.com/gl1000.htm so I don't have to mess with standing on my head to read the stock oil window.
Next, with the help of a little tape, I did one panel with Meguires Gold Class (paste), Cycle Care #3 and Meguires # 7. The Gold Class and Cycle Care # 3 were as close to being equal as you can get. Shade, floresent light, or sun, there was no difference in shine, but the Cycle Care is 3 to 4 times as expensive. The Mequires # 7 was just a tad better shine, but it is a hell of a lot of work. This stuff is to be put on and rubbed 'til it shines, without waiting for it to dry.Geesshh!! I'm getting old and lazy.
Next, I borrowed a little, Cycle Care # 33 spray and wipe.It is as good as, but no better, than the Meguires # 34 or final inspection or detailer. As far as I can tell they are all the same stuff. Again, the cost of the Cycle care product is beyond me, at $10.99 for 16oz and $57 for a gallon. I buy the Meguires #34 by the gallon for about $22. That's a hell of a difference in cost, for the same results.
In the same vein, I will tell you, I have found nothing better than, Cycle Care # 5, in the 5oz can, for polishing wheels and passenger floor boards. Makes 'em shiney and leaves a protective film. Never Dull doesn't work as well nor last as long.
So much for todays product report. I still have a lot of polishing to do. Ken Weston aka "Grumpy" <grumpy@toad.net>
I also use cycle care formula 3 and there formula 33 spray and wipe on my Tulsa windshield with real good results. I tried Summner's 210 but didn't care for it. Cycle Care is easier to use I think. Kyle McGary (Redcloud) <redcloud@nb.net>
Someone mentioned possibly using Pledge on the plastic windshield....DO
NOT! After awhile, the huge amount of alcohol will weaken and distort it.
We heard of this the hard way of people using it on their airplane windshield's
(same stuff). Same with blue Windex......never, never. The best stuff
I've used, and I think I've used it all over the years on aircraft, is
Dri-Wash, and number 2 is: Permetex plastic cleaner available at most Big
A Autoparts stores and others. The Dri-wash is wonderful on every surface,
helps stop bugs and stuff from sticking, makes planes literally faster,
and places a barrier between the dirt and the finish. If you must
use home stuff, use water first to turn dirt and bug parts into mud, then
clean it and dry it. If you use something like a towel and most other
cleaners, you will put those spider web circles in your glass. If
you do that however, all is not lost. There is a kit
called Micro-Mesh that uses a series of micro abrasives starting with
heavier first, then lighter as you go until there are no scratches left.
Last I checked, a kit is about $27.00, but will last a long time of re-do's.
If done correctly, it will also illiminate most crazing, but not clouding,
in plexiglass. rich and amber "ctoc" <ctoc@gvtc.com>