Soaking up the sights and flavors of Ping Lin

The early morning mist gently pulls itself off the gray mountains. As it dissipates in the cool morning air, terraces gradually appear, slowly exposing their olive green rows of tea. I can almost spell their aroma mixed with pine from the conifers that adorn the steep mountain side.

What a marvelous change from the continual revving of smoky motorcycles and blaring megaphones of the waste paper brigade that pierce my neighborhood's early morning hours. I had come to Ping Lin, a dozy little village with a population of around 4,500 - most of whom are scattered in the surrounding countryside. Ping Lin is situated in an emerald valley, halfway between Taipei and Ilan on the No. 9 highway. Also known as "Ghost Road," this ominously named road slopes straight down through the town.

Mr. Lee patiently explains the intricacies of Old Man Tea.
 
 
 
 

The No. 9 highway is the main road where the buses ply through from Taipei to Ilan, 47 kilometers away. Taiwan Motor Transport Corp.'s Ilan-bound buses depart Taipei's North station every hour and travel south down Roosevelt Road, through Hsintien, Ping Lin and on to Ilan. The Hsintien bus station also has direct buses to Ping Lin departing every hour. Buses run from 6:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. The 32-kilometer trip takes around 40 minutes by bus. Much better though, is a motorcycle ride that gives you the freedom to stop and admire the many beauty spots along the way. The quiet road meanders through steep mountains draped with fir trees and the ride takes a little over one hour.

Local entrepreneurs have opened tea shops to cater for thirsty travelers who come to enjoy the tranquil surroundings. They also sell freshly cooked fish and shrimps from the nearby river. I was surprised to find tea candy for sale which is available in two varieties. Milk-tea candy and hard-boiled Pao Chang candy. I treated myself to a bag of Pao Chang for NT$50. It has a slightly bitter taste from the tea, but was better than I had expected.

I stopped in at Mr. Lee's tea shop for some refreshment. He recommended the locally-grown Pao Chang tea. Being a true Ping Lin patriot, Lee told me that this was the finest tea in all of Taiwan as he set about the time-honored ritual of preparing Old Man Tea. I drank from my tiny cup and had to agree that it was indeed meritorious.

Picturesque tea terraces are at every turn along the winding road into Ping Lin

Ping Lin's soil and climate help to produce a great-tasting leaf and the cool morning mist that waters the fields every morning contribute to a perfect brew. Mr. Lee told me to come again in April, when the tea pickers are out in the fields choosing the perfect leaves for the village's annual tea competition. All the village farmers take the competition very seriously and the winner can ask exorbitantly high prices for his prized leaves. I paid NT$150 for my pot, thanked him for his time and set off for a look around.

Camping and fishing are the most popular forms of recreation in Ping Lin. Most campsites are at the northern end of the village. To get here, drive through the village and cross the small bridge, after which the road then forks. The right fork goes to Ilan, 47 kilometers away.

Take the left fork, which leads to the camps up river. The choice is then yours - simply choose the place that takes your fancy. Most of the sites are near the river bank, offering excellent fishing and swimming in the clear waters. You can hire camping equipment from the various sites, with rates fluctuating from camp to camp.

Average prices range from NT$400 to NT$600 for a four-man tent, cooking utensils and charcoal. The village only has a small selection of food, so it is advisable to bring your own. If you like fresh-water shrimps, you can buy a small net from the village end catch shrimps for your barbecue. The local children wade in the shallows, turning rocks to find the shrimps.

The southern end of two offers the best fishing, as the river deepens here. About one kilometer before Ping Lin, a small road turns right and leads down to the river bank. Here you can watch the fishermen try their luck or take a walk along the bank.

Ping Lin Tea Museum, which opened earlier this year, offers a basic introduction into the history of tea and its farming in Taiwan through posters in Chinese. At NT$200 per head to get in, it is nothing short of a rip off. You'll not be missing anything here if you give it a miss.

A day is ample time to enjoy Ping Lin. If you want to spend a few days there, you can spend the night at the town's only hotel, the Ming Fang Guest House, situated on the main road, tel. (02) 665-6452. The Ming Fang is no ordinary hotel. Here, you can take a tea bath to cleanse your soiled city pores. A soak in this infusion is claimed to cure everything from acne to rheumatism. If you don't have acne, you can hire a tent for the night.

Ping Lin is a place to relax and do absolutely nothing - that is its charm. In a place where the silence is only interrupted by the gurgling river or an ecstatic fisherman wrestling to land his catch, Ping Lin lets the pressure of city life disappear with the mist.