The amateur cavers or the serious speleologists, may not find the caves in Sabah
quite comparable in size to those in neighbouring Sarawak, but they can just be as
interesting. For those who do not mind an exhausting and often dangerous climb up near
vertical limestone cliffs, the foray up such surfaces which are often the exterior of
these caves can be extremely rewarding. The plant life on the way up and the views from
the top are absolutely breathtaking.
Guomantong Caves
This is the most famous cave in Sabah because of the
large amounts of quality bird's nests collected. The journey to Guomantong
is quite a rough trip and it should not be attempted during the rainy months from
September to December. It is a three hour journey by road from Sandakan and it branches
off to Sukau along the Sandakan-Lahad Datu road. Alternatively, a boat journey can be
taken. From the road to Sukau, there is a side-road turning right which takes the visitor
across a very interesting forest reserve. Only four-wheel-drive
vehicles should be used for this stretch of road. For the observant visitor, the jungles
here contain a wealth of wildlife, which include hornbills,
eagles, pheasants, deers, wild-pigs, monkeys and a wide range of plant life.
The way into the cave cuts across the side of a tree-covered limestone
hill and there is a sense of expectancy as one draws near to the cave. A long attap house
and trees are framed against the dark mouth of the cave and it is a spectacular sight to
see the huge opening of the cave with its rock formations suddenly bursting into view. The
cave is a large one and the adventurous visitor can explore the different inner caves
connected to it. There are run-down huts located in the vicinity of the caves for those
who would like to rough it out for one or two nights. Guomantong should only be visited by
those who do not mind foregoing comfort.
Madai Caves
The Madai Caves comprise a wide network of caves and
passages and it is a venue worth visiting because of its accessibilty. It is only a short
distance from the Tawau - Lahad Datu highway. There is a labyrinth of cave passages that
can be followed and an underground stream which adds to the fascination as visitors move
through cave formations that echo the timelessness of nature.
In moving through the caves, it is better for visitors to be guided. The droppings of bats
and swallows over the centuries have formed a permanent carpet of lush, soft areas which
can be thigh deep at places. Watch out for such spots. The activity of collecting birds'
nest which is a delicacy among the Chinese, is an intriguing sight. Some of the ladders
constructed of bamboos and rattan can extend up to great heights but the workers deftly
move up such ladders with ease.
For the adventurous, climbing up to the lower peaks of the Madai hills is a must. Although
the climb is nearly vertical in stages, the many footholds among
the limestone outcrop help make the climb much easier. It is certainly not a climb to be
attempted by the faint-hearted. The exhilaration at the top is hard to describe and the
view over the Kunak plains stretching right out to the sea is excellent.
Batu Punggul Caves
This is a difficult cave to reach but one that is
extremely interesting for the more adventurous who are keen to visit the heart
of Borneo to see Sabah's exciting interior. The journey to Sapulut from Kota
Kinabalu cuts across cool hills, scenic padi fields, quaint villages and fascinating
jungle tracts and it takes five to six hours to reach the small village of Sapulut. The
journey up-river which takes two and a half hours during the wet season and four to five
hours during the dry season cuts across massive timber bridges, rapids with treacherous
currents and river banks with some of the most diverse fauna and flora that can be seen in
Sabah.
The boat is often somewhat unsteady, and there will be many moments when you are sure that
the boat will capsize. After a long ride, the long-house of the family of Lantir and
Antagu is finally reached. This will be the venue for the night. A taste of
Murut culture and life-style is found here . Get ready to drink the local rice
wine - "tapai" - straight from the jar as you spend the night
here. There will be moments of revelry as visitors are invited to participate in the local
dances.
Early the next morning, the boat-trip to Batu Punggul from the long-house is made. As the
boat proceeds further up the river into largely uninhabited jungles near the Indonesian
border, a white limestone outcrop suddenly comes into view. It is an enthralling sight. A
short distance ahead is Batu Punggul. A strenous climb is made to reach the caves. The
caves are not different from the others and there are a few linked caves which can be
explored. The real attraction of Batu Punggul is the climb
up the sheer rock face, not recommended for those who are afraid of heights.
It can be dangerous.
The climb is 90 degrees vertical in some places but the
limestone handholds are a great help. The view from the top is well worth the absorbing
climb. Leeches are sometimes encountered in Batu Punggul but they are easily taken care of
with a pinch of salt or some tobacco.