Orléans

The Gateway of the Loire Valley

I arrived in Orléans in July of 1994. I had just finished my studies and I wanted to improve my French so I became an au pair (nanny) to two young boys. I had lots of free time during the day to visit Orléans. Here are some of my impressions of the city and the people.

The People

The Orléanais have a reputation of being very cold and difficult to know. In fact, I don't believe it's the Orléanais that are difficult, but perhaps all the Parisians who have fled Paris. You see, Orléans is located only one hour from Paris (by train or car) which makes it a big commuter city. Most people either commute or come to Orléans for the weekend. I find the French, very closed amongst themselves. Being Amereican changes everything, people hear the accent and they are curious."Oh are you English?", "Ahhh! You're American? Do you know any stars? Where from? Florida? Good God what are you doing in Orléans?" and so on. Teenagers are misguided by American television. I can't remember how many times I've had to explain that real life in the States isn't Beverly Hills or Melrose Place. So I don't feel that they are cold and unfriendly, probably amongst themselves they are. Circles of friends are very close-knit. They don't really look to making new friends. As my hubby says "What for?".

Joan of Arc

Orléans has a ongoing love affair with Joan of Arc. Afterall she did save them from the English in the Hundred Years War. So to commerate that victory, every 29th of April starts the Fetes Johanniques. This celebration retraces Joan's path through the city. Every year a young Orléanaise is chosen to represent Joan for all the parades and different events. On May 7, is the sound and light show for the burning of the Cathedral. This is a good period to visit Orléans, there are many different activities that are happening in town. Also dedicated to Joan is the Maison Jehanne d'Arc, actually the house of Jacques Boucher who was treasurer to the Duke of Orléans. Joan stayed here during her time in Orléans. The house was destroyed during the bombings of 1940, then rebuilt in 1965.Inside you'll find a slide presentation and models of scenes from Joan's life. Want more of Joan? Just head on over to the Cathedral St. Croix and check out the stained glass windows with different scenes from her life. For those who'd like to learn more about Joan of Arc and her life, try The Catholic Encyclopedia's St. Joan of Arc page.

The City

The City of Orléans has just created their own site(Don't worry there is an English version!). The Frenchies aren't too quick are they?
I find the city charming. The architecture is completely different from that in Florida(really?)The facades of the buildings have lots of different sculptures,angels, fauns, gargoyles on the cathedral and more. Even better the city has started a beautification project and several buildings are getting cleaned up. Who's have thought behind hundreds of years of grime that these builings would be a lovely cream color and not black! There are also many public gardens around Orléans. My favorite is one one behind the Hotel Groslot. There's also Parc Pasteur, Jardins des Plantes, and La Source located South of the Loire. There are several cathedrals and museums worth visiting.You can count statues of Joan of Arc. Visit the archeological finds at the Tour Blanche and at Place de Martroi you can see the remains of the original Pont Bannier that led into the old city. We have theatres, several cinemas even one that shows films in English!!!, shopping, a music hall for concerts, clubs, everything necessary except for Taco Bell. That's right there aren't any Taco Bells in France. I see an open market here, France is ready for Mexican food. So you're thinking all that's great, but tell me the good stuff, nightlife! Oh Orléans has a nightlife alright, but unfortunately it's rather mediocre when compared to Paris and Tours. There are several clubs, the most popualr being Gardels(pick-up joint), the Zig(dance and techno), George V(young clientele), and T-Birds(where I met my hubby, so I'm sentimentally prejudiced). There are many bars and pubs just go to rue Bourgogne and you'll find some action. That is if you go after Thursday (students night),then on Friday and Saturday business as usual. Clubs are empty till about midnight so don't bother showing up early. Most people hit the bars then transfer to a club after midnight. Don't worry you have until 5:00am to dance till you drop. And if after 5:00 you want more just head on over to the Midnite, it's a karoake bar that picks up where the clubs left off.
Being one hour from Paris means day trips for shopping and visiting. Which is all I could tolerate. I wouldn't live in Paris if you paid me. Orléans is the "Gateway of the Loire Valley" or the "Valley of Kings". There are hundreds of castles to visit and about a dozen in proximity to Orléans. Check out the ones I've visited. The region is very beautiful, Sologne, South of the Loire rivals New England in autumn. I hope that those who plan a trip to France decide to stop in Orléans and visit this beautiful area.