MARCH 9, 1998 VOL. 151 NO. 9

            Hard Road Ahead

            As investment drops and rural unrest intensifies,
          Hanoi discovers it isn't isolated from the region's
          economic ills. But radical reform seems unlikely

               By TIM LARIMER /HANOI
 

               The dramatic choice facing Vietnam's new leaders, who took office
               only last year, presented itself last week with a mixture of sobriety
               and absurdity. Prime Minister Phan Van Khai was busily trying to
               soothe disgruntled foreign investors and promising to enact a slew of
               economic reforms. "It is natural for people to become wealthy," one of his
               deputies explained. That farmers in the country's rice bowl, the Mekong
               Delta, are going into debt and selling off their paddy fields to rich
               landowners, was a logical, even desirable, development, another official
               chimed in. At about the same time, leading Hanoi cadres were filing past the
               hammer-and-sickle flag and one of the world's few remaining statues of
               Lenin to celebrate the 150th anniversary of Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels'
               Communist Manifesto. "Socialism is still the future of the human race," said
               a political commissar. "The target of Marxist-Leninist theory...is to eliminate
               private ownership and the free rights of capitalism."

               If the country's Communist Party leaders seem to be talking out of both
               sides of their mouths, it's understandable. Vietnam faces a stagnant
               economy, rebellious farmers, soured foreign investors, a rapidly expanding
               labor pool and even the ravages of El Nino. Predictions of drought in some
               parts of the country and flooding in others have farmers scurrying to
               pagodas to pray for spiritual intervention. "This is our most serious crisis in
               a decade," says reform-minded economist Le Dang Doanh. "We change,"
               says a 40-something party member who is also a business entrepreneur, "or
               we die." A sense of urgency has even inspired some of Vietnam's normally
               quiet political dissidents to speak out. Says Phan Dinh Dieu, a
               mathematician: "In this new difficult period, democracy is essential to our
               development."

               In a few short months, Vietnam's confidence has devolved into near-panic.
               When the Asian contagion began moving through the region, Vietnam
               thought itself immune. It has no stock market; its currency isn't convertible.
               Wealthy urbanites in Ho Chi Minh City were flocking to Thailand to take
               advantage of the cheap baht and turn a profit by bringing back cigarettes,
               whiskey and electronics to sell at home. A news magazine headlined a story
               EXPLOITING THE CRISIS, and an official of the Ministry of Planning and
               Investment boasted that Vietnam could capitalize on its struggling
               neighbors' misfortunes.

               That all now seems short-sighted. Vietnam is at least as vulnerable to
               economic tremors as any other Asian country. Nearly three-fourths of its
               foreign investment comes from Asia; South Korea alone accounts for about
               15%, almost $700 million, and plans for new projects are being shelved as
               foreign companies send employees home. Last year, foreign investment
               dropped nearly 50%. At the same time, Asia buys more than 60% of
               Vietnam's exports, which totaled $8.9 billion in 1997. With the region's
               economies weak, those numbers are sure to drop. Lacking a trade pact with
               the U.S. (negotiations have sputtered to a halt), Vietnam doesn't have many
               other markets. That might not matter, anyway, because the State Bank of
               Vietnam has devalued the currency, the dong, a modest 15% since the Asian
               meltdown, making Vietnamese textiles and shoes less competitive compared
               with products from Thailand and Indonesia, which have devalued more.
               Fujitsu Computer, Vietnam's largest exporter with $255 million in sales of
               hard-disk-drive components last year--mostly to Thailand, Japan and the
               Philippines--is scaling down its projections for 1998 and halting expansion of
               its Bien Hoa factory, where it had planned to go from 1,500 workers to 4,000
               in two years. "Our market is Asian countries," says Shujo Kawashima,
               Fujitsu's general director in Bien Hoa. "We cannot sell anything to them, so
               we cannot expand."

               It's no surprise that Vietnam was slow to realize that the region's crisis
               imperiled its own growth, which has barreled along at 8% to 9% annually
               this decade. The country had been on a winning streak since adopting
               radical reforms in the early 1990s. In less than a decade, the country has
               gone from rationing food to exporting more than 3.5 million tons of rice,
               second only to Thailand. Most people couldn't afford a bicycle; now
               two-thirds of urban households own a motorbike. "They were clearly
               desperate in the late 1980s," says Erik Offerdal, the International Monetary
               Fund's Hanoi representative. "And they've had remarkable success in
               turning things around." The $29.5 billion pledged by foreign investors is "the
               envy of every developing country," says Andrew Steer, the World Bank's
               Hanoi director. That represents about 20% of Vietnam's GNP--one of the the
               highest proportions in the world, according to Steer.

               What would make those figures more impressive, however, is if the money
               pledged were actually being spent. Official statistics show that projects worth
               more than $680 million have been suspended, and the real number is
               probably higher. Less than half of the project money licensed this decade
               has been used, and that includes ventures that have since died, as well as
               local joint-venture partner contributions, which are usually inflated property
               values. "The early success makes it look easier than it is," says Virginia
               Foote, president of the U.S.-Vietnam Trade Council.

               Just three years ago, Vietnam was the darling of emerging economies. Its
               population, at 76 million, represented one of the largest untapped consumer
               markets in the world. Politically stable with highly literate workers whose
               wages are among the lowest in Asia, the country appeared ripe for
               investment. Reformers were in the ascendancy, wasteful state-owned
               businesses were being dismantled and the country was emerging from years
               of isolation by shoring up ties with its Southeast Asian neighbors, China,
               Europe and its old wartime adversary, the U.S. Hanoi's grand old hotel, the
               Metropole, was lavishly rehabilitated with the World Bank's financial help,
               and its lobby bar was crowded with visiting capitalists. Now, once-buoyant
               investors are wondering if Vietnam missed its chance. Red tape, corruption
               and an opaque decision-making process turned many off even before the
               onset of the region's economic turmoil. "There isn't anything to invest in,"
               Eugene Matthews, an early American business pioneer said shortly before
               shutting down his consulting firm last year. Petroleum companies invested
               heavily to tap Vietnam's offshore gas reserves, but they haven't been able to
               pump anything onshore for 18 months because they can't agree with Hanoi
               on a price. A U.S. utility company, after a year of watching deals fail to
               materialize, found out that even quitting in Vietnam can be difficult. The
               company needed permission from the Ministry of Trade and the Ho Chi
               Minh City People's Committee, as well as proof that it had paid its rent,
               turned in its official chop and paid all its taxes. Then it needed evidence that
               its landlord had paid all of his taxes on the rent collected. "The landlord
               refused so we couldn't get a termination certificate," says the company's
               lawyer. "We had to call the mayor to solve the problem, but you can't call
               the mayor every time you meet a corrupt official."

               Last week, vietnam faced a potentially embarrassing blow as U.S. consumer
               products-maker Procter & Gamble threatened to pull out altogether. At issue
               was a problem encountered by many foreign companies who link up with
               state-owned firms. P&G, disappointed by low sales of its toothpaste, laundry
               detergent and shampoo, wanted to inject more money into the venture, a
               70-30 split with a local partner. But doing so would mean that the
               Vietnamese side would have to pony up 30%--in cash it doesn't have. P&G
               has proposed buying out its partner, something the Vietnamese don't seem
               likely to approve. The dispute has been played out in the pages of the
               state-run media, where the American company has been blamed, among
               other things, for "extravagant" spending on expatriate salaries and
               advertising budgets. Some articles have even insinuated that P&G is
               exaggerating its losses as an excuse to dump its local partner. Whether
               Vietnamese consumers can buy Tide detergent ultimately isn't important for
               Vietnam, of course. But foreign companies fear that the case will be used to
               drum up public sentiment against them in an environment already heavy on
               trade protectionism.

               Obviously panicked that the bubble of good fortune is about to burst, Prime
               Minister Khai held an unusual meeting in Ho Chi Minh City last month with
               hundreds of foreign investors. His government has announced regulations
               designed to streamline approvals, remove some onerous tax and customs
               regulations and reduce inflated land prices. Officials are starting to
               understand that investors don't just pump money into Vietnam out of
               goodwill. When asked why an investor should come to Vietnam at all, the
               vice minister for planning and investment, Nguyen Nhac, answered without
               hesitation: "For profit." Unfortunately, this new attitude follows years of
               other, so-far unfulfilled promises. "Their credibility is understandably low,"
               says the imf's Offerdal. "There has been a lot of paper created, but in terms
               of real juicy reforms, they have sort of dried up." Regulations announced in
               recent weeks, Offerdal says, amount to "tinkering."

               An overhaul is what's needed. The state sector is still loaded down with
               thousands of unprofitable companies that are draining the country's
               domestic capital. The banking system, which the IMF estimates has as large
               a proportion of nonperforming debt as did Thailand's troubled banks, is
               saddled with loans to state companies that have no incentive to pay them
               back. The banks also lack basic regulatory procedures, which has meant
               politicians, bankers and businessmen have been engaged in shoddy, if not
               illegal, lending practices that have already brought down two major Ho Chi
               Minh City companies. The IMF is now pursuing a harder line, refusing to
               hand over a $180 million loan previously committed to bolster the country's
               foreign reserves until it gets guarantees that Hanoi will begin fixing its
               problems. "Pain is inevitable," says Offerdal. "The kind of reforms we are
               talking about are big bullets, not peanuts."

               Vietnam's consensus-style leadership doesn't lend itself to quick maneuvers;
               leaders weaned on two long and destructive wars have come to value
               stability. "Why did the reforms slow down?" asks Robert Glofcheski, senior
               economist with the United Nations Development Program in Hanoi. "After a
               period of dramatic reform, they needed a period of consolidation, of
               stability." That, Glofcheski argues, has been achieved, the evidence an
               inflation rate of just 5%. "Now there is scope for a whole new round of
               concrete reform."

               It's an absence of radical reforms, especially in the legal system, that has
               created instability in rural areas. Since last May, farmers in dozens of
               communes in Thai Binh province have turned the countryside upside down
               with demonstrations against local cadres. They were upset about the number
               of taxes they have to pay; in some villages, officials levy as many as 30
               separate fees every year. One woman in her 50s complained that out of a
               120-kg paddy harvest, she has to pay 90 kg in taxes. Another farmer said
               officials charged him a fee for crossing a road with ducks. The taxes were
               bad enough. But watching local officials getting wealthy was too much. "We
               all have the same land, the same weather and do the same work," says a
               farmer in Thai Binh. "So how come they are so much richer than the rest of
               us? We went together to their offices and asked them to teach us their
               secrets." In several cases, the protests turned violent. In one village, for
               example, insurgents shut down roads and rivers leading in and out of the
               village, closed the markets and took hostage policemen and cadres sent in to
               restore order. Here and elsewhere, rebels essentially took control. The entire
               province was shut off to visitors for weeks at a time. Provincial officials
               concede that at least 20 cadres were punished for corrupt behavior.

               In February, the government finally allowed foreign journalists to visit the
               province. Phan Nguyen Duyen, 57, a retired Army officer who was asked to
               take over the top Communist Party post in one particularly hostile village
               late last year, analyzes the unrest this way: "We could lead the people in the
               fight against foreign invaders very well, but we have made some mistakes in
               economic management. Our cadres were not very well qualified and
               disciplined, causing waste and misappropriation."

               The unrest in Thai Binh was especially alarming to leaders in Hanoi, 100 km
               away, because that area, the most productive rice-growing province of the
               northern Red River Delta, has been a staging ground for revolution
               throughout this century. Some of the first uprisings against French
               colonialists were in Thai Binh; and even after the province was hit by a
               devastating famine in 1945, its people rallied to fight Japanese occupiers.
               The region sent the largest proportion of soldiers to do battle against the U.S.
               during the Vietnam War. And in the 1980s, demonstrations over food
               shortages spurred the government to institute economic reforms in the first
               place.

               While the unrest in Thai Binh might well be a special case, there is another
               cause for worry in Hanoi. People can live with poverty for years without
               moving to overthrow a government. It's often when they get a taste of wealth,
               when there are expectations that their lives will improve, that they began
               demanding political change. Vietnam has had nearly a decade of robust
               growth. Stomachs aren't empty anymore. Says one economist, who asks not
               to be named: "If motorbikes and TV sets become too expensive, then you
               have got the potential for real unrest." The challenge for Vietnam's new
               leadership, then, is making sure that prosperity continues--but in the
               corruption-free way its communist loyalists and strong-willed peasants have
               come to demand.