Tateyama: Towering Peaks of Toyama

Tateyama is a mountainous region on the borders of Toyama, Nagano, and Niigata prefectures on the Japan Sea coast. Convenient to the modern city of Toyama, the prefectural seat of Toyama prefecture, Tateyama is a relatively untouched section of the Chubu-Sankoku National Park. With peaks ranging from 2600 to over 3000 meters, Tateyama provides a unique alpine ecosystem within 2 hours of Toyama. The main tourist area is situated on a flat alpine meadow created during one of Tateyama's previous volcanic eruptions. Visitors can explore the highlands, descend into the valleys, or strive for the peaks. On especially clear days from the shrine atop the highest peak visitors can catch a glimpse of mighty Haku-san in neighboring Ishikawa prefecture. On even clearer days they can look across the valleys, over Matsumoto in Nagano prefecture, and glimpse the majectic visage of Fuji-san, three prefectures away on the Pacific coast.

Tateyama's high plain has several unique features and attractions. One is the Hell Valley, so-called for its sulphur vents and bubbling pools. This area is eerie and alien. The lunar landscape of the valley contrasts sharply with the green sides of the mountains. The sulphur towers glow yellow in the sun, and the sulphur gas fills the valley with the smell of rotting eggs. The bubbling pools range from muddy to clear, and pipes lead from the geothermal pools up to the onsen (hot spring) on the plain above. The entire valley evidences Tateyama's volcanic past, and shows that the mountain is only sleeping. Its beauty is awesome and humbling.

Natural beauty abounds in Tateyama. The alpine flora is a vivd green in the spring and summer, particularly after the snow melt. Flowers erupt on the hillsides and include numerous species of mountain rindou and the delicate kuroyuri, or black lily. The foliage becomes ablaze in color during the autumn. Lakes vary in color as well. Some are filled with cool, clear snow melt and reflect the surrounding world in a deep blue. Others have turned red from decomposing plant matter. These 'blood lakes' are an interesting sight, and still amaze Japanese and foreign visitors alike.

Tateyama is home to the Raicho. Literally translated, the name means "thunderbird". The raicho is a species of snow grouse and earned its name not for its powerful presence, but because it is easily frightened. It is flightless, and therefore cannot easily flee from its adverasries, most notably the fox. The raicho usually stays under cover of the low-growing alpine shrubbery and only freely emerges in the dead of night or during thunderstorms, when its predators will have more difficulty finding it.

The forests on the smaller peaks around Tateyama are also worth a look. The cedar trees are immense. Huge, gnarled trunks tower above the sheer hillsides to which they cling. Ferns and flowers line the hiking trails, and Japanese tourists and hikers, with the day packs, hiking boots, and handy walking sticks shuffle up the mountains on holiday weekends. From the tops of these smaller mountains, you receive powerful views of the grand peaks of Tateyama. Jagged Tsurugi is by far the most dramatic peak in the range, but all are lofty and merit admiration.

One of Japan's tallest waterfalls, Shoumyou-taki, is also at Tateyama.  From the parking lot where you leave your car, you take an easy walk up a gradual incline for a mile or so utnil you come to the falls.  Even in the summer after the snows had already melted, the spray was incredible.  The falls are powerful and it is easy to see why the Japanese rever them.  The site just seems so inaccessible.  It's hard to picture venturing up the falls before the walkway and observation platform were constructed.

Tateyama is a beautiful mountain area. It is easily accessible from Toyama by train, cable car, and then a quick bus ride. Hiking is not very strenuous if you stick to the alpine plain, but glorious vistas await those who venture to the top. The volcanic area is alien and hostile, while the lush green mountains beckon you to climb higher. Tateyama is well worth a visit.

Here are photos from my trip to Tateyama in June 1998. (click on the smaller image to go to a regular-sized version).

Links
Toyama Prefectural Government website.
Toyama City's website.

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