My first stop in the land of enchantment was "Enchanted Tower", near Datil on Hwy. 60. I recommend this rolling, scenic route to anyone looking for an alternative to Interstates.
This small, pretty sport area is as good as it gets. The rock is perfect, the camping is close and free, and you have the whole place to yourself.
The only trouble was the lack of potential climing partners. This was where my addiction to "free soloing" (climbing without a rope) began.
I was here for three days and only saw five others. After doing all the boulder problems I could, including my first V4, I ended up soloing a 5.9.
It was scary, but also the most free and fun climbing I had done. I was hooked.
I drove to Santa Fe and on through to Taos in mid July. The monsoon season had begun and it was much cooler with the daily afternoon rain.
I stayed outside the "Abominable Snow Mansion" in Arroyo Seco, for the next ten days. My friends David and Amani run the place, and we climbed together several days a week.
There is lots of climbing but few climbers around Taos, which added a bit of adventure to the experience.
We explored the granite domes of El Salto and Questa, the basalt at white rock, and the welded rhyolite tuff of Cochiti Mesa.
Although the access road to Cochiti was the worst I've ever seen and my poor bus almost tipped over twice, it was worth the trouble.
Sub-vertical, thin and technical climbing was the deal. Much like Smith Rock without the people and bad rock, Cochiti has unlimited potential for development.
Just remember to drive the road North to South (downhill) and bring lots of water. The camping is handy and the views amazing.
Before I headed north, there was one place still on my list; El Rito. It is a fairly new area as far as development goes, but one of my favorites.
The climbing is pure overhanging sport on conglomerate sandstone with quartz cobbles. Although it isn't my strong suit, the purely physical style is fun!
I onsighted an .11d and nearly .12a, falling at the last bolt on an 80' route that overhung about 30'. That was my last route in New Mexico, but I'll be back!