OUTDOOR PHOTOGRAPHY

BACKGROUND:

My interest in nature photography goes back some 18 years. To me it was a means to capture, appreciate and share some of the beauty encountered outdoors.
I am a graduate of Algonquin College's Science Photographic Tecnician program. In the past I have been fortunate enough to supply Algonquin Provincial Park, in Ontario, Canada with slides of the park for use in their library and evening slide show presentations. Although not currently employed in this field, I continue to enjoy this most rewarding pastime.

FILM:

My preferred choice in film has generally been Kodachrome slide film. This is now available in 25, 64 and 200 asa. My reason for these choices has been that I feel it offers the truest colour renditions. As well if you have any ambitions of getting material published, most magazines will require submissions in slide format. Another advantage of Kodachrome is its longevity. It will retain true colours for many years as long as they are well cared for and properly stored. There is also the benefit of purchasing it in a processing paid format, which is an excellent value. You are able to make prints from slides at any photo processing retailer.

In the events where I need a little extra film speed in low light conditions, I will occasionally use Ektachrome.

EQUIPMENT:

35mm SLR (single lens reflex) cameras are the definative choice for most outdoor photography. All major manufacturers produce excellent cameras and lenses these days. For my own use I have Canon equipment. Although I have yet to upgrade to the new genration of autofocus gear, I do know that these are the standard now and are much better than their early years.

Minimum equipment:

• Camera
• Camera Bag
• Excellent quality Tripod (do not skimp on this item, it is of crucial importance for quality photos)
• Trigger Release
• Lenses
• Lens Cleaning gear- including: tissue, brush, compressed air can
• Plastic Bags- always handy
• Notebook- for recording all kinds of things
• Batteries- replacements for whatever gear you are using
• and of course Film- don't be shy, you can never have enough

For lenses my basic suggestions would be a 24mm wide angle and a zoom in the range of 70-210mm. Notice I have not included the standard 50mm lens, I do have some but rarely use them. I would suggest if buying a new camera to substitute it for one of the other two lenses mentioned. After that a 50 or 100mm macro lens will be your best bet for closeups. If your interest lies in bird or wildlife photos a minimum of a 300mm telephoto will be required. Always try to buy the lens with the largest aperture possible(smallest f-stop number, ex: f1.2; the aperture is the diaphragm mechanism in the lens that controls the amount of light entering the lens) . This will allow you to shoot in lower light conditions and these lenses are built to higher standards. The highest quality of the lens is usually in the middle f-stop range, so the lower f-stop the lens has, the more room you have to play with. If you have a telephoto lens with a largest aperture of f5.6 you will be frquently shooting with the lens wide open, which will not give you the sharpest images. Wheras if you have a minimum of f2.8 and can shoot at f5.6 you will gain image sharpness.

Optional (but often required) Equipment:

• Super Wide Angle Lens- in the range of 14-18mm
• 100mm Macro Lens- for quality closeups of flowers and insects, etc.
• 200mm Fixed Lens- with a wide aperture around F2.8, this is my most widely used lens for general wildlife photography. The large aperture allows me to shoot in low light and it is of exceptional quality.
• 300mm Fixed Lens- again with a wide aperture. This would be my next most used lens for wildlife photography.
• Super Telephoto Lens- in the range of 500mm.
• Convertor- this increases your effective lens length(ex: a 1.4x convertor will make the 500mm lens equivalent to a 700mm lens). This also, unfortunately, also has the effect of reducing your largest aperture. Convertors usually come in 1.4x or 2x, they are also frequently matched to specific lenses. Invest wisely and purchase the best you can afford which means from the same manufacturer as your lens for best results.
• Motor Drive- although many cameras now come equiped with automatic film advance, I highly recommend this unit if the camera does not have one. Depending on make, they are available anywhere from 1 to 15 frames per second.
• Tripods- big ones, little ones, all of the best quality possible. I can't stress the importance enough of ALWAYS shooting from a tripod, unless absolutely impossible, for the sharpest images.
• Filters- I rarely use UV, also known as skylight, filters. My point is that I spend big money on the best lenses possible and don't want to deteriorate the image with an inferior piece of glass in front of it. Having said that I will occasionally use one if it is a hazy day, however, I do use what I feel are the best ones, namely, B & W. Polarizing filters I utilize much more often, but don't get carried away. Most knowledgeable photographers will be able to tell one was used. There are many other fancy, coloured, multi-prism filters out there which to me are basically toys to have fun with and experiment.
• Extension Tubes- these are basically hollow tubes that fit between the lens and camera that allow you to do extreme close-up photography. Wonderful tools. If you can afford it, there are also bellows, which give you an infinate ability (within its size limitations) of close up focusing.
• Light Meter- internal camera meters are much better than they they used to be, but there are always situations when a held meter proves invaluable.
• Cable Release- either air bulb or electronic, allows you to position the camera closer when dealing with delicate situations.
• Flash- many, many options here, consult your retailer for what best suits your purposes.