You'll occasionally see the international peacekeepers, ISAF, on the streets and they always tend to have the same expression- sheer boredom. Watch out for people who speak English and claim they are freelance translators or teachers. While most Afghans are kind and generous people, Kabul has its fair share of English-speaking tricksters. They'll often try to get money out of you. Apparently, journalists were paying Afghan translators $200 a day at one point and some now make money hustling foreigners for taxi rides at high prices.
It's worth buying Nancy Dupree's Historical Guide to Kabul from one of the vendors near the Spinzar Hotel but here is my own input on the city.
Pul-i-Khisti Mosque
This large blue-domed mosque is situated right at the center of Kabul's main market. The mosque itself is not worth visiting but the market is a thriving place where you can eat a cheap breakfast along the Kabul River. The biggest business is currency exchange. It's a strange economy in Afghanistan since no one seems to know where the money is being printed. Legally it's printed in France but the Russians printed Afghani banknotes to help out Rabbani and supposedly there's a printing press in Peshawar that spews out banknotes. The result of all this: rampant inflation. Stores and restaurants take Pak rupees (called "goldars") but you should definitely change money into Afghanis in Kabul as soon as possible. Along the river there are carpet vendors who have set up shop on the riverbank now that there's no room in the market.
Pushtunistan Square
You'll probably pass through this area near the Khyber Restaurant (being restored). Sidewalk vendors sell bread, soap, and plenty of Ahmed Shah Masood memorabilia. The Kabul Hotel is nearby, although a section where Al Qaeda were staying was destroyed during US bombing. Ariana Airlines has their office next door to the Kabul Hotel.
Shah-Do-Shamshira Mosque
This beautiful mosque is along the Kabul River and looks more like a small palace than a mosque. Nearby is the octagonal mausoleum of Timur Shah but it's not worth seeing as you can't enter and locals use it as a public toilet.
Mausoleum of Amir Abdur Rahman
Located near Pushtunistan Square, this small mausoleum is currently closed. You can still walk around the grounds but have to enter at the far end. Ask the vendors selling Masood posters for the entrance.
Kabul Zoo
Yes. It's still open. The most famous exhibit, a one-eyed lion named Marjan that survived a grenade attack, passed away recently but there's still plenty to see- porcupines, vultures, falcons, owls and a large black bear. The zoo is located near Deh Mezang, the area of Kabul worst-hit by the civil war of 1992-1996. Fighting spread into the zoo (hard to imagine but true) and the zoo is currently one third of its former size. Food is provided by the Mahew Animal House of London. Tickets are only 5000 Afghanis and well worth it. A great place to meet locals.
Darulaman
This former palace can be reached from by a share taxi from the Spinzar Hotel for 7000 Afghani per person. It was used as a defense ministry by several different factions over the years and is barely standing. I wouldn't advise entering since it looks as if it will collapse at any moment. The Kabul Museum is nearby but completely closed and severely damaged. The Taliban destroyed most of the exhibits and the sign has even been taken off the doorway.
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