~ Helpful Hints For New Cats ~

These tips work for all cats.

A cat who is already tame and experienced with other cats will not require such an extensive "introduction period."

Bring your new cat to the vet for a check-up. If you have other cats in the household, test for FIV & FeLV before introductions! A positive test result is not a death sentence; it will help you provide the cat with the special care he may need.

Make sure the new cat is free of worms, fleas, and ear mites before meeting the resident cats.

If the cat is old enough, do not put off the spay/neuter procedure.

Be careful when opening and shutting doors to avoid your cat running outside.

Upon arrival, keep the cat confined to one room. Having immediate free roam of the house could be overwhelming. If possible, choose a room without rugs so litter box accidents are easier to clean. Keep the cat confined to this room until he has started to use the litter box and is calmer. Be patient.

Supply the cat with shirts you have worn or blankets you have slept on. This will help the cat become familiar with your scent.

If the cat has a habit of biting, you will need to proceed at a slower pace. You could wear gloves to protect your hands, but only do this if absolutely necessary. Cats are usually frightened of gloves.

Do not try to initiate contact until the cat has had time to settle in.

When initiating contact, start with gently scratching the cat's head. When the cat is comfortable with this, you can try to scratch under the chin and then move to the back. Your goal is to coax the cat out of her hiding place and gain trust. Remember -- not all cats are "lap cats." Your new cat may not want to sit on your lap or be held like a baby.

If the cat is hiding under the bed or behind furniture, try to play gently, offer treats, and talk to the cat. An excellent way to coax cats from hiding spots is with toys such as a feather on a string. However, it's important that you do not hover. Spend a little time paying attention to the cat and then let him be. He will start to explore at his own pace.

Once you are able to pet the cat without problem, you could try placing him on your lap while sitting on the floor. If you are able to do this without problem, try placing him on your lap while sitting in a chair. Do not rush to these steps. Again, please remember that not all cats are "lap" cats.

Don't encourage your cat in "rough play" if biting and scratching is a behavior you want to avoid.

Once the cat is calmer, you can allow him to leave the confined room. If you have other cats, this process will be more difficult. Allow resident cat(s) to go into the room with the new cat and sniff around. You could do this for about 20-30 minutes and increase the time each day. If desired, once the door is permanently open, you could move the litter box, food and water bowls out of the room. The cat may have accidents at this point. Be patient.

Choose a low-traffic area for the litter box and keep it there! Do not keep moving it. A hallway where people are constantly walking back and forth is not a good spot!

Clean the floor thoroughly and remove all traces of odor if your cat has an accident. Clean with soda water or vinegar and water. Don't use ammonia-based products -- it smells like urine to a cat and will only attract more accidents.

There could be social or medical reasons if the cat continues to eliminate outside of the box. Make sure that your cat does not have a health problem, such as a bladder infection. Unspayed females will sometimes urinate outside the box, while unaltered males might "spray."

If medical reasons are ruled out:

*Is the box consistently cleaned? Scoop the box and change the litter as often as possible.

*Try a different brand of litter. Many cats do not like scented litter. A thin layer of baking soda can be placed on the bottom of the box to help absorb odors.

*Is the litter box in a high-traffic area? Keep the box in a place where the cat can have privacy. The corner of a quiet room is a good spot.

*Did another companion animal or person scare the cat while he was in the box? If so, the cat may be frightened to use the box, especially if it has a hood (lid). If the litter box has a hood, remove it and see if that helps the situation.

*Feed your cat in the area where she has been having accidents -- this serves as a deterrent to reusing the spot.

*Confine your cat to one room until she is consistently using the litter box. Gradually expand the area. Do not "crate" a cat for behavioral problems. "Crating" will cause the cat to become defensive and depressed, as well as prolong the "settling in" period.

Is your house cat-safe? Check for common household dangers such as poison, toxic plants, medication, holes, etc. Cut the cords on all window blinds to avoid injuries. If you use collars, use breakaway collars only!

Give your cats the time they need to adjust to each other. This could take hours, days or even months. The cats may never adore each other, but they will learn to live with each other.

If the cat misbehaves, clap your hands loudly and say "No!" Cats do not like sudden, loud noises. You can also use a squirt bottle. Fill the bottle with water and, when the cat misbehaves, give him a quick squirt and say "No!"

Try not to interfere if the cats are "facing-off" or "hissing" at each other. Do not allow the cats to cause severe harm to one another but -- as much as possible -- let them work problems out amongst themselves. Do not put your hand in between fighting cats.

When cats "face-off," they will sometimes howl or let out a low, continuous growl. This is natural behavior.

If you have a mulit-cat household, provide an adequate amount of litter boxes, food/water bowls, and toys. Cats will fight for territory and these items are part of that territory. By adding separate things for the new cat, you will help ease the tension because the cats will not feel they have to "defend" their belongings. Remember,the cats also consider you to be part of their territory. Try to spend equal time with your cats.

Your cat may howl, especially if not spayed/neutered, to go outside. Eventually, he will learn that going outdoors is not permitted.

Make sure all windows have secure screens. Never allow your cat to sit by an open, unscreened window. Supervise the cat when she is first introduced to a screened window. If the cat is still in the "bouncing off the wall" stage, keep the windows closed. You do not want your cat to claw his way through the screen. Only keep the window open a little, preferably using a latch on your window so the cat can't push the window up. You may open the window to expose more of the screen as your cat becomes calmer.

Talk to the cat as much as possible. Let him become familiar with the natural sound of your voice.

Always use a carrying case when taking your cat in the car.