Adventures In Israel
While on assignment for my Employer, I had the opportunity to explore the wonders of
Israel. Over the course of two months, I was able to see most of the country and its treasures.
I spent all of May and June 2000 in Tel Aviv, which is located on the Mediterranean Sea.
Tel Aviv
Tel Aviv is one of the largest cities in Israel. It is a very modern city, similar to many
large European cities. People drive fast, prices are negotiable, and everyone owns a cell phone.
The benefit to Tel Aviv is the beaches. The fact that it is in the middle east and sits on the
Mediterranean sea makes Tel Aviv very livable. During the months of May and June, the weather is
always sunny and warm. The water is very temperate, and the young people are out in droves. From
Thursday through Saturday the beach is crowded with people. There are plenty of great cafe's along
the Promenade where you can grab a bite to eat, or just sit and ogle. The Elephant is on the north side of the beach, and is
near the Jewish religious beach. Be careful at this beach, because depending on the day of the week, only certain
sexes are allowed in. Also keep in mind that you may have to keep most of your body covered. You can't mistake
it however, since it is surrounded by a cinder block wall. The Elephant has some great outdoor
seating where you can grab an ice cold beer. The London Grill serves some
great food, and has plenty of shaded seating. South of the London Grill, the beach opens up.
This is where a majority of your crowds will be. Further south the beach tapers off at the David Hotel,
until finally you reach the Muslim religious beach and Jaffa.
Tel Aviv has some great night life. The restaurants are top notch and very diversified. You
can get everything from Asian or Middle Eastern to good ole' American cuisine. I probably ate
more steak in those two months than I had in my whole life. Of course there are the clubs and
bars as well. Most bars and clubs have no cover, and they are full of both Israeli and Foreign
clientele. Some great places are the Buzz Stop.
Some other things in Tel Aviv include Dizengoff Center, kind of like the Picadilly Circus of Israel.
There are some great shops, and plenty of bright lights to see. The Carmel Market is located
in southern Tel Aviv, and has just about everything and anything you would need. It can be
crowded, but usually is worth visiting. South of Tel Aviv, along the shore, is Jaffa. This
restored town is the oldest city in civilization, dating back 5000 years. The whole area has
the feel of the old city of Jerusalem, but with the modern conveniences of today.
Jerusalem
Jerusalem is a separate world in itself. I could spend days here (and did) but would still not
see everything there is to see. As a general rule, the old city is where everything you want to
see is located. The old city is surrounded by an old wall and has seven gates where you can enter.
The Damascus gate usually has a little flea market out front. The Gate of King David has a museum.
The Golden Gate has been bricked up, and is rumored to be where Jesus entered the city before he
was crucified. The old city can only be accessed by foot and is very hard to navigate. Forget
using a map, its best just to wander around and hope you get where you're going before it gets
dark. You can follow the stations of the cross pretty easily, there are signs that keep you
in the right direction. As for anything else....just hope you find a tour, or end up in a plaza where
you can get you bearings.
I got lost so many times that I kept giving a few shekels to the poor kid so they would lead me
to my destination. The city is divided into four sections, you can spot the difference between
the Jewish quarter and any other because the Jewish quarter is the more modern and clean quarter.
The other quarters are less appealing, and you can tell you are on the wrong path immediately.
Hamat Gader is a spa tucked away at the southeastern point of the Sea of Galilee. Like most spas, it has natural hot springs along with plenty of self-indulgences like massages, wraps, and the like. The hottest pool is usually 108 degrees and has a strong sulfur smell. Two larger pools are cooler, but still are very warm. Many believe that the algae that grows in and around the pools has healing properties. So don't be alarmed when you see people rubbing the goo on their bodies.
Perhaps more impressive than the hot springs are the Roman ruins. It turns out that the Romans were the first to discover the natural hot springs here, and built a massive complex around it. The ruins are probably the best example of a Roman spa I have seen (better than Bath, England or Rome). The ancient pool rooms are large and well preserved. Statues and carvings abound throughout the complex as well. For some reason this area is frequently overlooked, so you can spend as long as you like exploring. If you sneak around the backside of the ruins, you can find the original hot spring itself. Still producing its coveted elixir, it now feeds the modern spa.
Entrance to the spa is not cheap. Food, beer, ice-cream and the like are available along with a playground for kids and changing rooms. A nice bonus are the free-ranging peacocks.
Kfar Nahum is also known as Capernaum. It is on the edge of the Sea of Galilee, and is the site of
Peter's house. There are only some ruins here, but there are the remains of oldest synagogue in
Israel. This is also supposedly the synagogue where Jesus taught as a child. Note that down
the road is the Greek Orthodox site of Peter's house. Most Christian tourist spots have both
the more common Roman Catholic site and a Greek Orthodox site. Both will claim that theirs is
the real deal. Go figure
Nearby is the hill where Jesus turned a few loaves and fishes into enough to feed thousands.
The Golan Heights are kinda cool. This is generally regarded as the upper northeast corner of the
country, and where Jesus spent his younger years. The most memorable part of this area are
the remains of the 1967 war. There are fields with signs that still warn of land mines and
a few road obstacles that were obviously made to slow down advancing enemies. There are a few
wineries up here, and I actually saw some giant wind generators.
Caesarea is a great roman town. It has a preserved town area, hippodrome, and
amphitheater. It is right on the water, and is probably the greatest ruin of a roman town
outside of Rome.
Beit Shearim has some great ruins. Because of the geology in the area, ancient Jews were able
to carve out burial chambers in the hillside. You can actually walk through several of them.
There are no remains in any of the chambers, they were all robbed years ago. The larger
caverns have huge sarcophagi.
Mount Tabor (Har Tavor) is the location of the Transfiguration. This is where Jesus' buddies
saw him talking with Moses and Elijah. This is the point where Jesus' buddies knew He was
something else, and started really believing in Him. The church at the top of the hill is pretty
cool, with both an upper and lower sacristy. In the lower sacristy is a trap door where you
can actually see the exact point where Jesus was standing when he saw Moses and Elijah.
Also on the mountain are some great jumping off points (literally) for hang gliders. If you
don't have a car, you can take a wild ride in a limousine up and down the hairpin turns. The
limo's average about 60 mph up and down. Pretty cool.
Megiddo is another ruin in northern Israel. It is considered by some to be the site of Armageddon. Many believe this is where the end to the world will begin at. The most interesting thing to see here is the underground well and secret entrance to the town.
The Dead Sea should be considered a great wonder of the modern world. The Jordan River feeds this large lake, but there is no outlet. Therefore the water is forced to evaporate leaving minerals (including salt) behind. The water in the Dead Sea is so saturated with minerals that it has become denser that the water in our bodies. This makes anyone swimming in it float exceptionally well. It also causes some problems. Unlike regular water, the water in the Dead Sea tends to make you want to float on your back, or worse yet, on your stomach. It can be hard to control, as evidenced by an older woman I saw who could not control herself from being flipped face first into the water. The salt was relentless. She immediately gagged and her eyes watered uncontrollably. Only by dousing her with freshwater were we able to ease her pain.
Once you get used to it, you can sit back as if you were sitting in a lazy-boy, or float on you stomach like Superman.
The Dead Sea is not easy to get to. It is located at the lowest point on the earth, and the heat causes it to be veiled in a eerie haze. You can come from the north and Jerusalem, or take the scenic route through the Negev Desert. In either case, head to Ein Bokek for the beaches and hotels. We foolishly stopped at a "beach" north of the Ein Gedi spa, which was very unkept, and not worth our money to enter.
Masada was the site of a great Roman battle that ended in the suicide of hundreds. The town is located at the top of a hill overlooking the Dead Sea. It can be accessed by a cable tram, but ages ago only a winding trail lead to the entrance. Inside are some of the oldest ruins known to man. An almost perfect mosaic exists in one part, and the remains of one of Herod's Palaces is currently under restoration. The Romans began their siege of Messada by literally moving mountains. They used slave labor to create a ramp from a nearby hill, and filled in the valley along the way. When the war-torn jews inside the town knew there was no hope, the all committed suicide. Modern day Israelis treat this as a sacred site, due to the sacrifice made. Every child that enters the Israeli Army makes the vow to "Never Again" give up their hope, or their land.
The Temple Mount is holy to all western religions. It is believed to be the site of the great Temples (David, Solomon, etc.), as well as the place where the Ark of the Covenant was kept. Muslims believe that Mohammed ascended to heaven from the area protected under the Dome of the Rock. The Temple Mount is located on the edge of Jerusalem. It is raised about 10-20 feet above the street level, about even with the walls of Jerusalem. It is currently controlled by the Muslims, and the Dome of the Rock and the Aqsa Mosque are open to visitors. Additional areas on the grounds include an underground mosque in the southeast corner, a great courtyard area, a large fountain, and numerous other buildings including an Islamic Museum. To the east is the Golden Gate, where Jesus supposedly entered Jerusalem in the days before His death.
The Aqsa Mosque is fairly large and simple. Large carpets overlap and cover the floor. Mosaics decorate the ceiling and walls. Numerous windows light the sunlight in.
Similarly the Dome of the Rock is covered in mosaics. However both the inside and outside are treated in this fashion. Internally, the floors are again covered with oriental style rugs, and of course no shoes are allowed. Under the dome lies a large outcropping of craggy rock. It is solid, and has large areas smoothed by the ages. At one side of the rock is a staircase, that leads to a small cavern. Dark and musty, it is yet another holy site.
The Western Wall makes up the western portion of the Temple Mount. Because of current customs, Jews are discouraged from entering the Temple Mount, and the Western Wall is the closest thing to it. It is believed to be the only remaining portion of the great Temples, and is considered the holiest site in Judaism. The wall is separated into male and female areas. The cracks in the stones are crammed full of prayers left by worshippers. Under the male side, a small tunnel continues. It is lined on one side with the exposed wall, and on the other by elaborate cases holding Torahs and other holy books. The area is usually crowded, and it is a favorite spot to celebrate Bar and Bat Mitzvahs.
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is a sacred site for all Christians. Located in the center of Jerusalem's old city, it is a maze of important events. In one room is the rock of Golgotha, where Jesus was said to be crucified. Down some steps and in the main entryway is a stone slab where He was laid after dying on the cross. Through a large doorway lies the tomb of Jesus. It is a large decorated area that fills the domed building with pilgrims. Like most large Christian sites, it has both Roman Catholic and Greek Orthodox sections (Armenian too). So around the back of the large tomb sits the smaller shrine that the Greek Orthodox use. There is no rhyme or reason to the building, and many areas are off limits. The crowds are usually horrendous, but take you time and be sure to see every nook and cranny.
I can see why the Sea of Galilee is the area that Jesus spent most of His time. Known a the Kinneret area, the sea is an azure lake that is surrounded by rolling hills. The warm temperatures make it an ideal place to spend an afternoon. There are numerous stopping points, including Tiberias.
Bethlehem is in the West Bank. It is controlled by the Palestinian Authority, so there is a large Muslim presence. The centerpiece of the town is Manger Square. Completed for the year 2000 celebrations, it is a large open courtyard surrounded on all sides by the pale stone buildings common to the area. At one end of the courtyard is the entrance to the church. The church is under Greek Orthodox control, and is typical of medieval architecture. Wood beams are exposed throughout, and the floors are wide open marble expanses with little seating. Lighting is limited to extraordinary guilded chandeliers. I can see why the Palestinians would use it as a last resort in 2001. It has limited entryways, limited windows, and is large enough for everyone to spread out.
Towards the back is a stairwell that leads down to the birthplace of Jesus. It is a dark grotto, with soot blackened walls. In a small carved out area, under an altar sits a brass star laid in stone. This is the birthplace of Jesus.
Nazareth is the hometown of Jesus. The town is primarily Muslim, however North Nazareth (Nazareth Ilit) is a modern Jewish area. Downtown however is the centerpiece. The cathedral is fairly modern. A large steeple encapsulates the center of the church. A few stories below the main section lies the place were Mary was told about here great burden. This area is very large and open. The stone pillars mark where Mary stood, and where the angels appeared. Although not well lit, it is one of the better religious sites.
Outside and around the corner is another small church. It is slightly older, and below it are some great catacombs.
Herzeliya is a more modern town just north of Tel Aviv. There are an abundance of restaurants catering to all walks of life. A great steak house and sushi restaurant just to name a few. Further towards the ocean a few bars pop up, and the beach just a few steps away.
Haifa is the largest port in Israel. It is situated north of Tel Aviv on the Mediterranean Sea. The city itself is crowded and not very appealing. However in the center of town is the Bahai Temple. This temple is what I consider to be the most beautiful religious site in Israel. A domed temple sits atop a huge staircase that leads up the mountainside. The staircase is flanked by lush gardens and statues. The temple itself is small, however it is exquisitely decorated. Continuing above the temple is a continuation of the stair and garden theme. This site is also the headquarters of the Bahai faith. Acre is the birthplace.
Immediately adjacent to Haifa is Mount Carmel.
Jaffa is considered the oldest continually inhabited port in the world. Known to have existed 4000 years ago, it is thought to be built by Noah's son, Japhet, after the Flood. Located on the southern outskirts of Tel Aviv, it brings the feeling of the old world into the 21st century. Jaffa, also known as Yaffo, was restored in the 1960's after years of neglect. It is now a quiet tourist area, filled with quaint cafe's and trinket shops. At the center of the town is Abrasha Park which encompasses many archeological sites that are under excavation. Just west of the park is Kedumim Square; busy throught the day and night, it also sports a vistor center and archelogical excavation underneath it. At the north end of the square is St. Peter's Roman Catholic Church. Further west are many shops connected by intertwining paths similar to those of the old city of Jerusalem. Here you can find antiques, jewelery, artist's studios and a miriad of trinkets. Past the shops is the port itself, with numerous fishing boats and wonderful seafood restaurants.
There is parking available inside Jaffa, but you must pay first to enter. The town is free if you enter on foot. You can follow the seaside walkway all the way to the Promenade and Tel Aviv if you wish, but it is quite a hike.
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Web site created by Brian Fasano
The content above is from personal experience, and cannot be considered totally accurate. My spelling isn't that great either.
01/19/2003
4:00 pm
