PART 2
MAKE SURE THAT ALL FUEL LINE CONNECTIONS ARE SECURE. IT IS BEST TO USE SOLID METAL LINE, WITH SHORT NEW PIECES OF HOSE CONNECTIONS AT THE TANK AND THE FUEL PUMP. MAKE SURE FUEL LINE IS SECURE THROUGHOUT THE VEHICLE, AWAY FROM BATTERY CONNECTIONS AND EXHAUST MANIFOLDS. A 6 GAL. METAL BOAT TANK WORKS WELL. WHATEVER YOU USE, MAKE SURE IT IS MOUNTED SOLID TO THE FLOOR. YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO SHAKE THE ENTIRE CAR,WHEN SHAKING THE TANK.
RUNNING TRANSMISSION COOLERS OR LINES INSIDE THE DRIVER'S COMPARTMENT IS A REAL BAD IDEA. I'VE SEEN GUYS GET BURNT BAD ,WHEN THEY DO THIS. ABSOLUTELY...DISCONNECT THE LINES FROM THE RADIATOR AND LOOP THEM TOGETHER, USING A COMPRESSION FITTING. OR BUY A SOLID LINE LONG ENOUGH TO MAKE A SOLID LOOP. OR SCREW INTO A TRANSMISSION COOLER(IN THE DOG HOUSE).
RUBBER HOSE CONNECTIONS AND CLAMPS WILL WORK, BUT THEY AREN'T AS DEPENDABLE AND CAN CAUSE YOU A BIG PROBLEM.
BATTERY CONNECTIONS AND MOUNTING SHOULD BE JUST AS CRITICAL AS THE FUEL SYSTEM. I RECOMMEND USING NEW HEAVY DUTY CABLES AND CONNECTIONS. WE MAKE OUR OWN FROM HEAVIER WELDING CABLES. PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO HOW YOU RUN YOUR BATTERY AND IGNITION AND DISTRIBUTOR WIRES. PLASTIC ZIP TIE THEM TO THINGS THAT WON'T MOVE,..AWAY FROM JAGGED METAL EDGES ,HOT TRANS LINES,AND EXHAUST. BAD CONNECTIONS AND POOR WIRING WILL REALLY HURT YOUR CHANCES. ALL CABLES AND WIRES COMING THROUGH THE FIREWALL, SHOULD BE WRAPPED IN AN OLD PIECE OF SPLIT RADIAITOR HOSE...TO PREVENT THEM FROM BEING CUT AND SHORTING OUT. ALLOW SLACK IN ALL YOUR WIRES FOR THINGS TO MOVE...JUST MAKE SURE THEY ARE NEAT AND SECURE. COVER YOUR BATTERIES WITH A NON-CONDUCTIVE COVER AND MAKE SURE THEY ARE SECURE.....EVEN IF YOU'RE ON YOUR SIDE OR UPSIDE DOWN. YOU DO NOT WANT BATTERY ACID FLYING AROUND IN THE DRIVERS COMPARTMENT WITH YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
THERE IS NO EXCUSE FOR FUEL AND BATTERY INJURIES!!! MAKE THAT YOUR FIRST AND LAST SAFETY CHECK AND YOUR #1 PRIORITY!!! IF YOU ARE AN IDIOT AND THINK THAT YOU ARE TOO MACHO TO WORRY ABOUT SUCH THINGS.....WHEN YOU CATCH YOUR STUPID SELF ON FIRE OR MAKE A TRIP TO THE HOSPITAL FOR YOUR ACID OR FIRE BURNS......YOU HAVE AIDED IN HAVING THE DERBY SHUT DOWN IN YOUR AREA, BECAUSE OF INSURANCE AND SAFETY FEARS.....THAT EFFECTS ALL OF US AND WILL MAKE YOU VERY UNPOPULAR AMONG FANS AND DRIVERS. NOT TO MENTION THAT GIVES THE GENERAL PUBLIC THE OPINION THAT WE ARE ALL IDIOTS AND THOSE THAT OPPOSE THE DERBY, AMMUNITION TO HAVE IT STOPPED. DO US ALL A FAVOR.....AND USE YOUR HEAD IN THIS MATTER.
MY P O V ON IGNITION IS TO RUN A TOGGLE POWER SWITCH AND A MOMENTARY CONTACT PUSH BUTTON...RUNNING THE NECESSARY WIRES TO THE DISTRIBUTOR,ALTERNATOR, AND STARTER. ELIMINATING ALL ORIGINAL WIRING. STARTING OUT YOU MAY NOT WISH TO DO THAT...BUT YOU WILL LATER. ORIGINAL IGNITION WILL FAIL YOU. IF YOU USE YOUR OWN WIRING...BE SURE AND UNLOCK THE STEERING WITH THE KEY THEN WRAP THE KEY ,IN THE UNLOCK POSITION, AROUND THE COLUMN WITH DUCT TAPE , SEVERAL TIMES....TO DISCOURAGE SOMEBODY FROM WALKING BY IN THE PITS AND TAKING THE KEY WITH THEM.
INSTALLING A HOMEMADE SHIFTER THROUGH A HOLE IN THE FLOORBOARD, ATTACHED DIRECTLY TO THE TRANSMISSION LINKAGE SHAFT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. OR A FLOORBOARD CABLE SHIFTER. COLUMN SHIFTERS, EASILY POP THE LINKAGE WHEN HIT JUST RIGHT AND IT DOESN'T TAKE MUCH.
HOSES AND BELTS SHOULD BE IN GOOD CONDITION AND REMOVE ONES THAT AREN'T NECESSARY. I LIKE TO USE PIPE PLUGS TO REPLACE HEATER HOSES. I ALSO WRAP HOSES IN TIGHT EVEN UNBROKEN BANDS OF DUCT TAPE ,A COUPLE OF TIMES,FROM END TO END. THIS WILL STRENGTHEN AN UNSEEN WEAK SPOT THAT MAY RESULT FROM BACK PRESSURE OR OVER HEATING. MAKE SURE THE UPPER HOSE IS NOT GOING TO RUB THE FAN OR ALTERNATOR, WHEN THINGS BEGIN TO FLEX AND MOVE.
I LIKE TO RUN A SOLID FAN. THE MORE BLADES THE BETTER. EVERYONES IDEA ON THIS IS DIFFERENT, BUT I'VE HAD BETTER LUCK KEEPING THE ENGINE COOL BY THAT CONSTANT AIR MOVEMENT OVER THE MOTOR. MY P O V IS THAT IF THE RADIATOR HAS BEEN KNOCKED IN FAR ENOUGH TO SLAP THE FAN AND THE WATER PUMP...YOU'RE IN THE "RUN IT 'TIL IT PUKES" MODE ANYWAY. RUNNING NO FAN ,TO ME IS DUMB.
THE ORIGINAL RADIATOR HOLD DOWN, SHOULD BE REMOVED TO ALLOW IT TO FLEX AND GIVE ON IMPACT. USE YOUR OWN IDEAS HERE, BUT I USUALLY SIT THE RADIATOR IN THE TRAY, PLACE A STRIP OF SEAT FOAM, DOWN EACH SIDE,BETWEEN THE TANKS AND THE CORE SUPPORT. THEN I USE SOMETHING LIKE INSULATED HOUSE WIRE, TO WRAP AROUND THE ENDS(INSIDE THE HOSES)AND AROUND THE CORE SUPPORT. TWISTING THE WIRE TOGETHER, UNTILL IT IS SNUG....BUT HAS GIVE.
REPLACE THE THERMOSTAT WITH NEW. IF YOUR GOING TO USE THE OLD ONE, REMOVE THE INNER WORKINGS AND USE THE REST AS A REDUCER, TO SLOW THE WATER FLOW. REMOVING IT COMPLETELY CAUSES THE WATER TO PASS THROUGH TO QUICKLY.
ORIGINAL MOUNTS ARE USUALLY ROTTED AND JUNK. CHEVROLET MAKES A MOTOR MOUNT THAT IS UNLIKELY TO PULL APART, BUT NOT IMPOSSIBLE. ALL OTHERS WILL PULL APART. ALWAYS CHAIN OR CABLE THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION DOWN SOLID. ALLTRANNY MOUNTS ARE JUNK. FRONT WHEEL DRIVE ELDORADOS AND OLDS TORONADOS WILL EASILY BUST C.V. JOINTS WHEN THE MOTOR IS MOUNTED ORIGINAL. THE MORE SOLID YOU CAN HOLD THE MOTOR TO THE FRAME, THE LESS LIKELY TOU WILL BE TO LOSE A C.V. JOINT.
TIRES SHOULD BE TALL AND SKINNY. THE MORE PLY...THE BETTER. WIDE TIRES ARE MORE ACCESSIBLE BY YOUR OPPONENT AND MORE LIKELY TO BE DAMAGED. RUNNING TUBES IS BETTER THAN NOT. FILLING WITH FLUIDS OR OTHER MATERIAL IS A MATTER OF PREFERENCE.
BUMPERS SHOULD BE CABLED,CHAINED,OR WELDED IN PLACE...DEPENDING ON WHAT YOUR RULES ALLOW. DRAGGING OR BACKING OVER A BUMPER THAT IS ATTACHED ON ONE SIDE IS A PROBLEM. FOLD IN OR REMOVE THE ENDS OF BUMPERS, SO THEY DON'T GET HUNG ON OTHER CARS. USING THE SLOTTED ADJUSTMENTS TO LEAN THE BUMPER BACK AND UP IS A GOOD IDEA.
I HIGHLY SUGGEST WELDING THE SPIDER GEARS IN THE REAR END, SO THAT BOTH WHEELS WILL PULL ALL THE TIME. IF YOU HAVE A REAR FLAT OR LOOSE A REAR WHEEL,YOU WILL HARDLY NOTICE WITH A WELDED REAR END. THIS HAS TO BE DONE CORRECTLY. MAKE SURE THAT YOU CHIP AWAY ALL LOOSE SLAG AND THAT NONE REMAINS IN THE HOUSING. HAVE SOMEONE EXPERIENCED, DO THIS FOR YOU THE FIRST TIME AND PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO HOW IT'S DONE. IT IS SIMPLE ONCE YOU'VE DONE IT.
WIRE THE CHOKE OPEN ON YOUR CARB...IT WILL PREVENT IT FROM CLOSING AND STICKING IN COMPETITION...MAKE SURE LINKAGE MOVES FREELY AND CABLE IS IN GOOD CONDITION. A HEAVY WIRE RUN TO THE LINKAGE AND BACK THROUGH THE FIREWALL AND POSITIONED, WHERE YOU CAN ACCESS IT, ATTACHED TO SOME TYPE OF LARGE WASHER OR HANDLE.....CAN BE USED AS A BACK UP HAND THROTTLE, IF THE ORIGINAL CABLE BREAKS.
USE TIGHT FITTING PLUG WIRES AND TIE THEM UP SECURE, AWAY FROM EXHAUST AND HOT TRANSMISSION LINES.
COAT THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP WITH SILICONE OR A WATERPROOF SPRAY...IF YOU BUST A HOSE..YOU'LL BE GLAD YOU DID.
MAKE SURE YOU EVEN HAVE A SEAT BELT AND IT WORKS PROPERLY....MAKE SURE IT LATCHES AND DEFINETLY UNLATCHES. I ONCE SPENT SO MUCH TIME WORKING ON A CAR, THAT I OVERLOOKED THIS MINOR DETAIL AND JUST AS I WAS ABOUT TO ENTER THE ARENA....AN OFFICIAL LOOKED IN TO SEE IF I WAS WEARING ONE. I REACHED DOWN TO GRAB IT.....AND THERE WAS NONE....HE SENT ME BACK TO THE PITS.....REALLY DUMB ON MY PART....HUH? ANOTHER SUGGESTION IS TO TRY IT ON AND AFTER FINDING THE LENGTH THAT IS SNUG AND COMFORTABLE...PLACE A BOLT THROUGH ,OR TIE A KNOT IN THE BELT, AT THE EDGE OF THE RECOIL....TO PREVENT IT FROM GETTING TIGHTER. EACH IMPACT CAUSES YOU TO PUSH FURTHER BACK IN THE SEAT AND AFTER A FEW HITS.....A RECOILING BELT CAN MAKE YOU MISERABLE.
PLACING A PIPE,STRAP,ROLL CAGE, OR ANYTHING BEHIND THE SEAT WILL PREVENT THAT MISERABLE EXPERIENCE OF DRIVING HALF THE NIGHT WITH THE BACK OF YOUR SEAT BROKE OFF. ALLTHOUGH, I HAVE A PRETTY FUNNY VIDEO TAPE OF ME FLYING IN THE BACK FLOORBOARD AFTER EVERY HIT AND HAVING TO SIT UP AND SEARCH FOR THE STEERING WHEEL .....WHICH WAS THE ONLY THING HOLDING ME UPRIGHT AND IT WAS STARTING TO LOOK MORE LIKE A TACO SHELL ,THAN A WHEEL.....IT'S NOT VERY FUNNY THE FOLLOWING WEEK AS YOU WALK LIKE A 90 YEAR OLD MAN!
TO TIE DOWN HOODS,TRUNK DECKS,AND DOORS....USE #9 OR HEAVIER WIRE(NOT COAT HANGERS OR OTHER WIMPY MATERIAL),CABLE,CHAIN,OR ALL-THREAD. READ YOU RULES CAREFULLY, SO THAT YOU DON'T HAVE TO REDO EVERYTHING IN THE PITS.
THESE ARE JUST SOME BASIC IDEAS TO GET YOU STARTED....GO TO THE OLD TRICKS PAGE FOR MORE BUILDING TIPS.
MY LAST SUGGESTION FOR THE "NEW GUY" IS MAKE SURE THAT YOU UNDERSTAND AND HAVE READ YOUR RULES CAREFULLY. ARRIVE AT THE EVENT EARLY...HAVE YOUR CAR READY TO INSPECT.....GET INSPECTED AS EARLY AS YOU CAN, SO THAT IF YOU'RE ASKED TO MAKE CHANGES...YOU WILL NOT BE PRESSURED FOR TIME TO DO SO.
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