GETTIN' FRAMED !

REINFORCEMENT OF CRITICAL AREAS

  1. Filling the frame with any type of hardening liquid, i.e. plastic resin, fill foam, roofing tar, concrete...etc.

  2. lining the inside with metal, angle iron, rerod, bumper jack shafts, plate steel, all-thread, steel pipe...etc. A plasma cutter is used to remove the top of the frame, after the body is removed. After insertion of fillers, the top of the frame is then welded back on. It is then covered with undercoating, mud, dirt, paint...etc. Body mounts are then removed, so that the body is flat on top of the frame, concealing the welds.

  3. Inserting smaller frame into stock frame, via a plasma cutter, resulting in a double frame wall.

  4. Drilling holes and welding bolts across the inside of the frame, to achieve "cats" inside the frame rail.

  1. Adding plate steel to the top, bottom, or sides of the frame rails at stress points.

  2. Creating steel plate gussets and welding them at the top of the rear humps in the frame to prevent them from "hair pinning", over the rear axle. Creating a "gusset" effect, by welding leaves in the leaf springs.

  3. Frame can also be strengthened by creating body mount locations, other than original stock ones. Such as in front of the rear frame humps on 71-76 G.M. wagons.

  4. Uni-body sub-frames can be strengthened by plating and bolting through body and by attaching front and rear sub-frames with channel iron or I-beam and incorporating this into the roll cage.

  5. Any roll cage to frame connection that penetrates the top strap of the frame and attaches to the bottom strap of the frame and possibly travels in either direction...substantially strengthens that area of the frame.

  6. Roll cages that extend onto or over the rear frame humps, become reinforcement.

  7. Reinforcement material added to the front frame stubs, just in front of the steering box and idler arm mount, where the frame narrows, can be added, then ground down and covered with undercoating.

  8. Steering box can be removed and then material added to the inside of the frame. It can then be covered by the steering box itself.

  9. Any all-thread, rerod, angle iron, etc., that attaches at the 2nd body mount at one end and attaches to the rear of the engine cradle at the other end, prevents the front end from bending up.

  10. Angle iron incorporated into the bottom of the core support, can tie frame rails together, strengthening the front frame rails.

  11. Bumper shocks can be removed and replaced with steel pip, which can be filled with smaller pipes, until a solid 2 inch rod fills the frame stub.

  12. Re-welding all factory frame seams and lacing rail to body in as many places as possible increases rigidity.

  13. "Capping" or "sealing" off any opening, such as original frame ends or inspection and access holes, increase strength and restricts inspection.

THE ABOVE MENTIONED TACTICS ARE THE WORST AND MOST DANGEROUS TO OTHER DRIVERS. WE OFFER THEM TO SUPPLY INFORMATION TO OFFICIALS AND "HONEST" DRIVERS.