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| The wedding day for an Indian bride is one of the most significant days of her life as this day marks her transition into womanhood. Traditionally, a married Indian woman had in her cachet a wealth of adornments. Passed down to her through generations were the formalized, yet unwritten laws of “Solah Shringar” or sixteen adornments for basic make-up norms. “Solah Shringar” corresponds to the sixteen phases of the moon and is, therefore, a significant number. An Indian woman’s marital status is demonstrated through her jewelry and clothes. Because young unmarried girls seldom wear jewelry or bright clothes, these visible marks of her married status are first bestowed on the bride-to-be during the ritual of “Solah Shringar.” There are several ornaments that indicate marital status in India. Bindi – Tika – Rakhri Bindi Kumkum is the first shringar, which symbolizes the bride’s suhaag. The word Bindi is derived from the word bindu, which in Sanskrit means a dot. A bindi signifies female energies and is believed to protect the husbands. The original Bindi was made from the paste of fragrant saffron but with time had changed to a red dot made with vermilion powder. Tika/Rakhri – Generally made of gold, the Tika is worn in the center of the forehead dropping down to the center of the brow, which is considered the seat of higher intelligence and fortune. The tika being in shape signifies the sun and the moon the symbols of everlasting fortune. Kajal The application of kajal or kohl on the edges of the upper and lower eyelids is another form of shringar that makes the bride’s eyes appealing and attractive. Originally, a paste made at home by mixing the sooth of an oil lamp with clarified butter, now popularly known, as eyeliner is available as pencils. The original paste is claimed to have a soothing affect on the eyes. Nose Ring – Nath Nath or the nose ring enhances the bride’s beauty and gives her a more traditional look. It hangs from the left nostril and is supported by a gold chain. The nose ring was the symbol of purity of a girl. A ring consisting of cluster of pearls or other gems including diamonds is worn on the nose. Earring – Jhumka Earring or Jhumka or Karnphool are ornaments worn in the ears by the bride and are ornate as the necklace. A gold chain supports them. Earrings are a very vital aspect of shringar for married woman. Different shapes like ‘jhumka’, ‘balis’, ‘kundalas’ and ‘lavang’ that were considered auspicious used on ear tops. The poet Kalidas called earrings kundala or karnika. Necklace – Mangalsutra Necklaces are adornments for a swan-like neck. From the era of mythology, famous gems were set in beautifully crafted necklaces and chains. But two necklaces are most - important – the ‘Varmala’ (made of flowers) and the Mangalsutra (made of gold and black beads to distinguish from other frequently worn ornaments.) The black beads are believed to act as protection against evil. Married women wear this to protect their marriage and the life of their husband. In southern India, the Mangalasutra is called 'tali'. It is a small gold ornament, strung on a cotton cord or a gold chain. Only married women wear the Mangalsutra. Mangalasutra or thread of good will is a necklace worn specifically by married women as a symbol of their marriage. Initially it was a thread that a bride and groom tied on each other signifying their union in good will. Now, the groom ties it around his bride's neck to indicate that he receives her from her father. Bangle- Choodi They are considered the most visible signs of marriage. Bangles are one of the most important adornments worn by the brides. Bangles may be ivory, green or red glass, ceramic, gold, and other metals depending upon the custom. Bangles of an Indian bride are believed to be protective bands and women always wear them as symbolic guards for their husbands. Flowers – Balon ka Haar Flowers are considered symbolic of life and happiness and are therefore important to Indian marriages. Flowers are also known for their cooling properties and are hence placed on the woman’s hair to have a serene affect throughout the ceremony. Hair adornments have gradually started replacing natural flowers. Mehendi Denotes the prosperity that a bride is expected to bring to her new house and is a very significant shringar of the bride. The hands and feet are covered with intricate mehendi designs. The resulting red color is considered to be auspicious because it has several emotional, and fertility-related qualities. Armlet – Bazubandh One of the most beautiful adornments worn by the Indian bride on her wedding day is the bazubandh or the armlet worn on the upper arm. Meant to protect the bride from any inauspiciousness on her wedding day, the armlet is a gift by the groom’s sister to the bride as a commitment on behalf of her brother to protect her all her life. Waistband – Kamarband Kamarband adorns the slender waist of the bride and is generally made up of gold. It is beautifully designed in various shapes bye embedding stones, diamonds, gems, etc. It is one of the most important parts of the “Solah Shringar” and is used to hold the sari and the pallu in place throughout the wedding ceremony. Sari- Lehenga The bridal dress is generally of bright colors like red, fuchsia or gold and comprises either a sari or a lehenga or salwar kurta, depending on the region. The seven pleats of the sari are believed to tie the husband with his wife for seven lives! Ring – Angouti In all cultures and countries in the world, a ring is symbolic of love and commitment. It signifies good luck, eternity, and beauty. The ring, as an ornament, originated in Egypt and then the practice of wearing rings spread to the whole world. In early times, in India, women’s rings were called karadarpana because they carried a tiny mirror for the bride to neaten her hair and appearance. Pocha’s – Haathphool Hathphool or the hand ornament consists of a central flower or a medallion to which eight chains pass to a bracelet and five to each of the fingers where they are secured by finger rings. This ornament reminds the bride that she possesses the strength of five goddesses and can use them at appropriate times for her protection and well being of her new family. Anklet – Panal – Bichua Anklets are either in the form of simple chains or thick rings of silver set with a fringe of small spherical bells, which tinkle at every movement of the limb. The bells make enticing sound and are believed to ward off evils. The toes are adorned with the bichua or anwat a ring furnished with little bells. Worn on the second toe, this adornment is a symbol of a married woman. Often made in silver, some toe rings have a mirror on them for the bride to see her face from under the veil. Different regions have different designs and dissimilar reasons for wearing the toe rings. |
| Solah Shringar |
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