November 2006
India's capital is a dirty, chaotic city and we only go there to link into the Intrepid tour. We hired a taxi, the ubiquitous Ambassador, a cross between a fuel efficient tank and a limo with a velvet covered roof, to do a day tour and, of course, were expected to eat at an outrageously expensive restaurant that gave huge kick backs to the driver.
The day we were supposed to start the Intrepid tour with a visit to Old Delhi all the transport was shut down as riots in the street were predicted.
We were lucky enough to meet a wedding celebration on one of the main streets - the forlorn-looking groom rode a white horse while his family had all the fun, inviting passers by to dance and frolic to the sound of a brass band and drummers.
In the days of the great camel caravans, Shekhawati merchants decorated the outside of their houses with life-size murals depicting everything from the events of the day to the exploits of the gods. This desert region is full of ornate havelis, some crumbling in decay and some wonderfully restored and preserved in splendour. Covered with painted murals, these former merchant's homes make a wonderful open-air museum.
We stayed at the Mandawa Haveli Hotel, a beatutifully restored 18thC traders residence; tasteful statuettes in wall niches and alcoves, brass studded double doors, georgeous Kashmiri carpets and the biggest double bed I've ever seen.
The room was similar to 'Gopesh" shown on the hotel website.
Rising from the flat desert surrounds is the enormous sandstone citadel of Jaisalmer. A magic moment of the tour was when we went on a camel trek, an irresistibly romantic chance to cross the barren sands and to sleep under one of the starriest skies in the world.
Sandstorms, sore backsides and camel farts aside, the safari was great fun.The warmth of the cameleers and the family of dancers made for an unforgettable experience.
Travelling by local bus we head deeper into the Thar Desert to the fortified town of Bikaner. Once an important staging post on the great caravan routes, the city still contains many bazaars within its impressive walls, as well as a superb fort and palace.
We travelled out to the Karni Mata temple, full of holy rats considered to be the reincarnation of local tribespeople. It is considered auspicious if they run over your bare feet and particularly so if you see the white one.! Our tour was the lucky group that spied the white rat and the good luck stayed with us for the rest of the adventure.
One night we travelled by camel cart to a nearby farm where we dressed in traditional garb and enjoyed an evening of traditional Rajasthani food, music and dance.
A morning's bus journey took us across the desert to one of Rajasthan's largest cities, the busy and chaotic Jodhpur. Full of fascinating artefacts, we explored the colossal Meherangarh Fort, which dominates the city skyline.
Walking down the cobblestone pathway into the old city below the fort we found Sadar Bazaar, one of the oldest markets in India. Built around the clock tower amid spice and vegetable markets, juice sellers and sari materials, vendors with carts selling everything from Bollywood soundtracks to armfuls of sparkling bangles. Jodhpur is famous for its antique shops and we sampled what is reputed to be the best lassi in India.
On our way we stopped to visit the Bishnoi tribespeople and see how dhurries (local rugs) are made. They must think we're stupid because they do a couple of threads on a rug then present hundreds of obviously machine made rugs ostensibly 'hand woven' along with a photo gallery of celebrities that have passed this way before.
The accomodation was a pleasant surprise: we stayed at the restored villa of a local nobelman entertained by drummers from the village. The best part was the obvious enjoyment of the village teacher.
We drove out into the local villages for some "interaction" with the villagers.. As the evening cooking fires start, women carrying pots of water return from the well and the men bring back the animals they have spent the day herding out in the scrublands we were taken to a hilltop to enjoy hot chai at sunset, hosted by the young schoolteacher.
Mt Abu was unremarkable except for the magnificent Jain Temples at Dilwara and the explanation of the rise and continuation of the sect.
