Honda Goldwing GL1800 Modifications

HOME


MAIL


BIO


PHOTO

*POWERED BY*
Mac OS X
Honda Goldwing GL1800 Modifications

The word "Honda", "GL1800" & "Goldwing", used separately or in combination, are registered trademarks of Honda Motor Corporation

| Garage Door Opener | Key Knob | Camper Selection |

Top

Integrated Garage Door Opener

Got frustrated while poking at the garage remote in my pant pocket, never hitting the button right as I speed into my Bat Cave. Neighbors stare in amazement as I cuss at my groin area, poking and fondling it as I drive along. Clipped the remote to the dash to erase that scene ...

After worrying too many times about my $30 Garage Door opener disappearing from it's clipped position on the Dashboard, I decided I needed to integrate the opener into the Motorcycle Electronics. I had three choices, a popularized version of the High-Beam circuit, a retransmit of the trunk open signal, or the turn signal cancel switch. I chose the signal cancel switch as it was the simplest.

The Garage Door opener I chose is the Genie GIT-1. It operates off an internal 12V (23A) battery and will work in both Generation 1 (1997 and earlier) and Generation 2 Intellicode products.

Solder a Jumper across the rear of the PC board across the switch, and wire two color coded pigtails to the battery terminals. I suggest at least a red wire be used for the positive battery connection as illustrated:

C25 contains all the signals necessary to wire the Remote in. My GL1800 is a new 2004 model, but C25 is identically wired and color coded for all GL1800 models. C25 is attached to a bracket towards the front of the vehicle under the right hand locked pocket in the fairing.

Removal of the pocket requires the removal of two screws, pressing in the center of the two clips to remove them and edging out the pocket and unclipping the opening cable.

The bracket that houses C25 has a pair of plastic wing nut screws holding it in place, undoing the screws and gently convincing this bracket out into the open is an easy task.

There is a need for diode isolation to the signal cancel circuit, as the canceller is a 5 Volt device. I chose a pair of diodes (rectifiers), cathodes (band side) connected to the switch, and the anodes connected to the canceller and the remote. However, the circuit will work with one diode, the one to the remote is unecessary and is there only because I worried about a kickback from the remote. This kickback did not materialize, not worth removing at this late stage, feel free to attach the `negative' remote wire to the cathode side of the remaining diode feeding the canceller. This diode was spliced into C25 pin 4 (Light Green with White Stripe) wire:

Note that the positive power is acquired from C25 pin 2 (White with Green Stripe) tapped in by soldering to a partly bared wire. I used heat shrink tubing to seal the wiring, along with electrical tape to bundle the wires together.

Replacing the bracket and screwing it in, tie wrapping the remote to the bracket to keep it out of the way of the lockable storage bin finishes the modifications.

Make sure you re-attach the opening cable to the of the pocket before reinstallation. Failure to do so will leave you with the disappointment of locking yourself out of the right pocket once closed. The clips need their center pins pushed proud, reinserted, then pressing their pins flush. Do not overtighten the pair of screws.

If anyone knows a source of the 6 pin connector that mates to C25, please contact me as this would allow this circuit to be plug and play.


Parts List (with approximate price):


1 12V style Garage Door opener, Genie GIT-1 or equivalent ($29.95 Home Depot).
1 1Amp 1N4000 series rectifiers ($0.30, or RS276-1653 $2.79/25)
1 Optional m/f pair of 6 pin Connectors (I think pn 02653 $7 ?)
Heat shrink tubing, electrical tape, pair of 6" runs of color coded wire, soldering iron etc.


Top

Key Knob

Frustration once again being the mother of invention, but alas not my frustration this time, as the pack mentality has spoken. I decided to perform my rendition of the infamous GL1800 Key Knob.

Off to WalMart I go, where armed with my 10% discount card, I picked up an Axcess 27 key and had it cut to match my existing key. Also to the local Candy Store and ordered the factory knob for the Stereo.

With a pair of side cutters, I pulled out the metal insert in the center piece and then used the side cutters to shape a slot into the knob's center piece the same width as the key. I expect this slot to strengthen the link from the knob to the key when turning.

I inserted the key into the tank lock and using some tape marked the point level with the surface of the lock's beauty ring. Cut the key so that it protrudes 9mm from that mark. I drilled a small hole into the key to help the glue anchor it into the knob, I felt this necessary to ensure that the key does not pull out of the knob.
Mixed up some Epoxy Glue and poured it into the center portion of the knob. Dipped the drilled key's base in the glue and pushed that into the slot in the knob, making sure it protudes perpendicular to the knob.
Parts List (with approximate price):


1 Axcess 27 cut key ($.99)
1 Honda Part Number 39113-MCA-671 Code 7119316 Stereo Knob ($5.60)
Side Cutter, Epoxy or similar glue, small amount of tape to mark key, measuring instrument and a hack saw.


Top
1