I have had the privilege of breeding an outstanding 3/4 dark yellow cock in
1997, he has just the right draw with excellent legs and flanks as mentioned
above to compliment his stance.
Many fanciers in the UK have tried to keep up with the improvements of the
Border over the years and in doing so unfortunately have stumbled on problems
with split fronts and necks. The cause is an inherited dormant gene that goes
back to the canary ancestors according to a television team's research. This
problem I believe is triggered off by continuous inbreeding. My advice is when a
bird is bred that has any fault, do not try to inbreed again with it unless you
understand totally what you are doing. Inbreeding or pairing any birds with the
same faults takes years to rectify. And even when you think that you have
eradicated the problem, dormant genes show up from time to time. Creases and
split must not be tolerated.
Another common fault is the obsession for size, to me, size is not important,
in fact when I judge, I tend to go for a smaller bird because they more than
often offer better movement. I am not interested in big birds that just sit
there, I want to see a jaunty type bird that moves like a ballerina. No other
bird but the Border has this skill, some finches dance and jerk but the Border
should perform, it should turn towards you with a dip and a swagger before
hopping across to the other perch. It should move in such a way as to land with
a semi upright movement, then stand straight and turn towards you.
Providing a bird has width in proportion to depth, size does not matter, if
it performs with good balance, well up off the perch and all the other
attributes lay down by the standards, it will delight the eye of a true Border
lover. Legs are also an important feature in today's bird. A bird with short
legs is to me like a picture without a frame.
Another noticeable feature of bygone birds is the density of natural color,
I have given a lot of thought to this, and I personally believe that in trying
to breed a rounder bird, we are producing birds with wider type feather. On
close examination, I notice the band around the edge of the feather being paler
because this is the part of the feather that is seen all over the bird. Maybe
because the feather is broader, we are seeing more of the outer transparent
band, thus taking the depth of color away from the bird. Whatever the cause,
you can be sure that this area is something that I will be working on.
I would like to finish by pointing out a few facts to take into consideration
for judges who are selecting for Best Border in Show. The bird I have drawn is a
yellow hen. Yellows have the advantage of being rounder than buffs and show a
little more back, we have to accept that the make-up of a buff feather is
different, although the feather is wider webbed and thicker, it seems, to lay
flatter giving a bird a slightly thicker neck and a flatter back.
Another consideration is cinnamon's and fawns. Their feather is much finer
and they have a distinct disadvantage over the head and back in the areas where
the feather is shorter (i.e. top of the head). So use the model as a guide type,
quality and movement should be the key features.
The North American Border Canary Club
of the Border Canary throughout the U.S.A. and Canada with
the information they need, the sources they want and the
quality friendship they enjoy.
The Club encourages those interested to join the breed
with the highest competition and the closest showmanship.
Annual meeting is held at the National Cage Bird Show.
Annual fee: $10.00 Single, $20.00 Dual
Newsletters: Spring and Fall
Rosettes upon clubs request
Secretary: Claire Z. Brammer Complete nutrition was the main reason I tried it. Like most "seed
eating" birds, it turns out that these finches from the Canary Islands need
more than just seed. Wild canaries also eat insects, fruits, plant leaves, and
get direct sunshine which creates vitamin D. The typical pet canary gets an
unlimited supply of just seed. Some get just a poor-quality box mix from the
grocery store, which is mostly millet. However, even the best quality seed-only
mix is not a complete diet for long-term health. Canary breeders have
traditionally supplemented the seed diet with hard-boiled chicken eggs,
vegetable greens, calcium from cuttlebone, and artificial vitamins. However, it
can be difficult and a lot of work to ensure a balanced diet. In addition to the nutritional benefits, some other advantages of pellets
are: What are the disadvantages of pellets? Pellets may be hard to find. Before converting, pick a brand that you are
able to get locally or mail order from at least two suppliers. The manufacturer
should be able to recommend distributors near you. There are two types of bird pellets. Some are just compressed and some have
been "cooked." My experience has only been with Kaytee Exact pellets,
which are cooked. There are many other brands available. You can phone or write
to the manufacturers and ask for nutrition reports. Contact information is at
the end of this article. What's the best way to convert your birds to pellets? Now I'll tell you my method for converting canaries to a pellet diet. My
experience has only been with Kaytee Exact pellets, so I do not know if this
conversion method will work or is safe with other brands. Pellet Manufacturing Companies:
36051 S 545
Jay OK 74346
(918) 786-2722
e-mail: brammer@greencis.net
Feeding Canaries A
Pellet Diet
By Ginger Wolnik (PacificASC@aol.com)
Why feed pellets to your canary? What are the
advantages?
To make an analogy, if you were to feed a dog only muscle meat, it would not get
a balanced diet. Wild dogs (wolves) consume the entire animal they kill: bones,
organs, etc. They also eat some vegetable matter. Modern dog "kibble"
is a convenient way to provide a do- with a complete diet. So even though dog
food is "unnatural", most people accept it as the proper way to feed
their canines. Similarly, bird pellets can be viewed as a convenient way to
properly feed your avian pets.
- less mess (there are no seed shells)<<
- more accessible (the edible part doesss not get buried under inedible husks)
- safer (dry pellets don't spoil when llleft out like moist food can, such as egg
food)
- less waste (no need to throw out uneaaaten portions)
- less work (large quantities can be feeed)
Pellets can be stored at room temperature and left in the cage for weeks. I
refrigerate pellets for long-term bulk storage to keep the vitamins stable.
(This is also recommended for vitamin-coated seed.)
One drawback is that pellets cost more than some seed mixes. However, this is
partially offset because the whole pellet is edible; with seeds you also pay for
the weight of the shells. With pellets you do not have to buy vitamins. If you
buy pellets in bulk through mail-order distributors, the cost becomes
comparable. If you don't have a lot of birds, several of you can group together
and share the savings.
Another disadvantage is that canaries enjoy eating and may get bored with the
same food. I feed pellets for the bulk of my bird's diet, but still supplement
with fresh greens, some seeds, and egg food for variety. If you do this, wait
until your birds are fully converted to make sure they have accepted the pellets
as food. Some people offer more than one variety of pellets and rotate brands to
combat boredom.
Sometimes, the biggest difficulty with pellets is getting your birds to eat
them! If you just provide some pellets as a "treat", your birds will
probably ignore them. If they were raised on a seed diet, they will prefer seeds
and will not eat pellets until they have been trained to recognize it as food
AND there is no seed to eat.
One conversion method is to just take away all seed and only provide pellets.
However, a lone, pet bird could starve to death with this "cold
turkey" approach. This method works best in a flight cage with many birds
that are used to a varied diet. It only takes one curious bird to start eating,
the pellets and others will often copy. If you purchase a bird that already eats
pellets, you can use it to train the others, but if seed is also in the cage,
the new bird will probably just join the others and eat the seed.
Another easy way to convert a flock to is to wean your chicks onto pellets.
Young canaries between 4-6 weeks old seem to be more willing than adults to try
strange foods. Mixing pellets into their nestling food will get them to try it.
I recommend giving them some soaked seed to eat at this stage too so they will
learn to crack seed shells. Even if you totally convert your birds to pellets,
someday they could be owned by someone else who wants to feed them seed.
Another conversion method is to add the pellets to the seed mix and gradually
increase the proportion of pellets. Others and I have found this not to work
well for canaries. They pick out the seeds and ignore the pellets, even when
there are few seeds left to eat. They don't get enough to eat and frantically
feed when a new batch appears with some seed in it, which is upsetting for the
owner to watch. This is what discourages most canary owners from completing the
conversion.
First, determine how much seed your canary eats in a day; it is probably about
1/2 tablespoon each. Start providing just this daily ration in a large, shallow
tray so the seeds spread out in one layer. It is important that all the seeds
can be found and eaten without being buried by shells. Do NOT add pellets to
this seed mix. Instead, provide plenty of dry pellets in a separate dish so that
the bird can start eating when it is ready.
Next, find a moist crumbly food that the bird will eat, usually moistened
nestling food. Since canaries are not raised on seed, there is some type of
crumbly, high-protein food that they were raised on and will like to eat. You
can try a commercial mix such as CeDe, Quicko, Bisko, or Abba. Or you can try
making your own mix of cooked couscous or grated corn muffins. Do not leave a
moist mix with real egg in their cage for more than a couple of hours. On a warm
day, it will spoil quickly!
Cut back on the amount of seeds per day to encourage the bird to eat the
"nestling" mix. Once you are certain the bird is eating this moist
food, you can start the pellet conversion process.
Soak a small amount of pellets in water for about 15 minutes, drain and add to
the nestling food, mixing well so the pellets break apart and become part of the
mixture. Start with about 25% pellets; use less if the bird doesn't eat that.
This mixture can spoil; do not leave it out all day, especially if the weather
is warm Once the bird has eaten this mixture for a couple of days, gradually
increase the percentage of soaked pellets each day, cutting back on the amount
of seed at the same time. Remember to use separate dishes! After a week or so,
the bird should just be eating soaked pellets and no seed.
The final step is to reduce the amount of moisture in the pellets. Soak for just
10 minutes for a few days, then soak the pellets for just 5 minutes. At this
point, the pellets should be dry by the end of the day, so if the bird is still
eating them, it is essentially converted!
Always keep a separate dish of dry pellets available in the cage at all times so
that once they figure out this is food, they can eat all they want. Some
canaries will put off eating them until forced to, but others will surprise you
by suddenly switching to the dry pellets after just a couple of days!
Keep in mind that pellets are a "Maintenance" food for pets or
non-breeding birds. To condition canaries for breeding and to feed laying hens
and birds who are feeding chicks, you should supplement with a higher protein
"nestling" food.
Now all my baby birds are weaned on pellets and all birds that I purchase get
converted. I have even switched wild-caught finches to an all-pellet diet! The
advantages are so great; I'll never go back to feeding seed.
Kaytee (800) 669-9580
Lafeber (800) 842-6445 ext. 285
Lake's (800) 634-2473
Prettybird (800) 356-5020
Roudybush (800) 326-1726
Scenic Bird Foods (800) 327-7974
Zeigler Brothers (800) 841-6800
ZuPreem (800) 345-4767
Mazuri - Purina (800) 227-8941
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