Hgeocities.com/catpoopman/airfuel.htmlgeocities.com/catpoopman/airfuel.htmldelayedxJpx,OKtext/html@LAx,b.HMon, 20 Nov 2006 00:23:32 GMT; Mozilla/4.5 (compatible; HTTrack 3.0x; Windows 98)en, *Jx, sv650 air fuel mixture adjustment
Adjusting
Air Fuel
Mixture
Disclaimer: As always, it is ultimately the owners decision to modify his/her bike.  I submit this modification under a blanket policy that states that liability is solely that of the owners and no one else's
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created 5/15/00
updated 11/19/06
If you have a running problem with your bike after attempting one or a combination of these procedures please recheck your settings.  These tips have been tested many times with total success.
Photos and instructions by
John Callahan


To make sure the mixture screws are properly adjusted, especially now that you put on your performance exhaust, you must remove the carburetors.

Carburetor removal requires 60% patience and 40% skill.  First follow the steps in how to shim SV650 carb needles up to loosening the carburetor clamps and lifting up on the assembly.  After the clamps have been loosened and the carbs are free to wiggle the next step is removing all other pieces that connect to the carbs.

First locate and disconnect the electrical connector by presing on the release tab and pulling apart as seen in the first photo.   Then disconnect the  fuel line.  Disconnect the throttle cables as shown in the second fugure.  The throttle cables can be difficult to remove from the throttle wheel at this point but can be done most easily by tilting the carbs to the side, exposing the throttle wheel to unhinge the cables more easily.  Disconnect the idle speed adjustment by snapping it out of the clip as shown in figure 3.

The choke cable is most easily removed from the handle bar and snake it  back through.  Bill Metz recommended this and I found it to be the simplest way.  At this point you have already discovered the carbs are free from the bike.  Be warned a lot of gas can leak out of those little carbs so be ready.  Cover the intake tubes with a clean rag or foil to keep dirt from entering the engine

Cover both ends of the carbs before drilling.  Locate the brass plug as shown in figure 4.  The plug has a small hole in it and must be drilled out.  I used a 3/32" drill bit to drill out the hole.  Be careful not to drill to far!  The plug is 3mm or 1/8" thick.  Do not drill farther than 1/4" as you can damage the screw underneath the plug.  Clean the area to be free of brass shavings at this time.  I obtained a picture of a california carb, other than a hose next to the plug I can't tell that there is any real difference.  The rest of the pictures show a 49 state carb.

Once your hole is drilled you can screw in a small sheet metal screw.  Once the screw is in and tight you may notice the plug turn with the screw -that is normal.  Take a pair of needle nose pliers and grab hold of the screw as shown in figure 6.  I used a small tack hammer to tap the back side or the pliers, jarring the plug loose and popping it out.  This takes very little effort.

Once the plugs are removed and area cleaned take a screw driver and turn in the screws until they stop (most report counting 2 full turns from a stock machine, some report more, some report far less).  Do not tighten the screws, just turn in till they stop.

Turn out each screw exactly 2-1/2 turns.  I find putting a mark on the screwdriver handle can be helpful to make sure this is done right.  Once you are sure the screws are set properly simply reassemble in reverse order.  You will find that it goes back easier than taking it apart.

You should not have any "extra" parts left over other than 2 brass plugs which you can throw away.
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