And we are blessed with many places that serve and deliver pizza as well as some fancy chains like Ruby Tuesday and Red Lobster. Fine Chinese, Italian and Greek restaurants abound along with numerous better-than-average independent eating places.

But the opportunities for truly fine dining, in the grand tradition of French and Continental cuisine, are few and far between. One outstanding example is the Parkhurst Restaurant in Luray, a 17-year-old establishment with a reputation extending to the delicate palate of Washington Post food critic, Phyllis Richman. (She raved about it years ago and those who have followed her echo the praise.)

Proprietors George and Nita Weddleton have created a truly remarkable restaurant with a warm and slightly-less-than-formal atmosphere. Solid pine wood panel walls, stained glass, crystal chandeliers, unique artworks and conversation-starting wall decor blend in casual elegance.

Tables are set with white linen and fresh flowers (always) and service is impeccable and unassuming. A selection of fine wines, including the best Virginia, California, New York and French vintages, enhances the menu -- an extravaganza of excellent French, Italian and American entrees prepared by Chef George and his assistants with freshest ingredients and individual flair.

Dinner at the Parkhurst invariably begins with a pleasant greeting from the host or hostess and a quick response to the table for drinks, wine, coffee or tea. The next step on this senses-filled epicurean journey will be the vegetable crudite, a small platter of fresh sweet potato, celery, radishes and other garden choices served with a sublime avocado dip.

The extensive menu includes nearly a dozen appetizers, ranging from escargots (that's snails to us Americans) in garlic butter to tangy cheddar jalapenos.

Soups may include french onion or clam chowder. My favorite is tomato shrimp bisque, a delicate and creamy concoction awash with tiny and tender shrimp.

Salad choices are equally varied and fresh with a huge seafood salad and a huger chef's salad which make meals in themselves. Among the fresh house dressings are a creamy dill and a delectable honey mustard.

The entrees. Oh, the entrees. Here is veal oscar classically prepared and perfectly presented. Beef tips au fromage done to a Gallic turn at only $19.95. Steaks are always an appropriate choice, from the spicy au poivre at $22.95 to the colonial variation on prime rib at $19.95.

Often there will be a fresh fish specialty, such as fillet of cod provencale. Ummmm, as Homer Simpson might opine.

Desserts, too, are fabulous. From the cheesecake to the mousse au chocolad, you just can't make a bad choice to go with coffee at the end of a special night out.

For local residents, the Parkhurst has become the place to go for anniversaries, birthdays and other celebratory occasions. However, anyone can experience the inexpensive "in-between" visit with orders from the bar menu, a nice quiet drink in the lounge or a simple repast of a delectable appetizer, salad or soup.

For dining out in style at an unexpectedly reasonable cost, nothing beats the Parkhurst. (My wife says, sarcastically: "Well, you can't say you've been thrown out of better places than this!")

More information on the Parkhurst, including a locator and sample menu, is available at their WWW homesite.