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Gateway to the Dayaks
Country of East Kalimantan
The province of East Kalimantan serves as a gateway to other
destinations on Kalimantan Island. Most destinations, such as the Dayak
settlements in the hinterland along the big rivers, can be reached from
here, moreover, a visit to Kalimantan does not seem complete without a
visit to East Kalimantan.The province of East Kalimantan occupies an
area of 211,440 square kilometres. It is the biggest province of
Indonesia since Irian Jaya has been officially divided into three. It
has a population of more than two million.The forests of East
Kalimantan contain a wealth of rare flora and
fauna. The black Orchid (Clogena pandurata), Nephents Amularia and
Rattan vines growing up to 200 meters long, grow in these forests. So
do various species of valuable tropical hardwoods.
Among the animal species typical of Kalimantan, living in the forests
are chimpanzees (Pongee pygmaeus), bekantan (Nasalis Larvatus), Mahakam
fresh - water dolphins or pesut (Orcela fluminalis) and many bird
varieties.
The cultural and artistic traditions of the island's indigenous Dayak
population are still preserved in this region, especially in the
hinterland of East Kalimantan. Sailing up the streams near the
Malaysian border, one can still meet Traditional Dayak settlements than
seem to have been little touched by the advent of modernity.
Samarinda
Samarinda is the provincial capital of East Kalimantan. Located on the
Mahakam river, the town occupies a space of about 167 square kilometres
and has a population of approximately half a million people. On January
21, 1668, they founded the
settlement which is now the city of Samarinda. For inland tourism
Samarinda is the starting point for
exciting Mahakam River, Jungle and Cultural Dayak adventure.
Sarongs from Samarinda are very well known throughout Indonesia.
Samarinda sarongs are woven in cottage industries, and usually use
high-quality silks.
Balikpapan
The name Balikpapan is presumably derived from an overloaded ship,
which capsized near Tukung Island.
A Dutch geological map in 1870 contained a small village of that name
on Balikpapan bay.
Now East Kalimantan's leading oil town, and one of the most important
in Indonesia, Balikpapan was during World War II the target of assaults
by both the Javanese and the Allies.
Balikpapan is the main gateway to East Kalimantan province. It has
grown in importance since the opening of the International flight
routes. This town of about 500.000 is also visited by Pelni passenger
ships on the route Surabaya - Ujungpandang - Balikpapan.
Mahakam River
The Mahakam river is 920 kilometers long, running over the Muller
Mountain , which forms the boundary between East and West Kalimantan,
between Indonesia Kalimantan and the Malaysian state of Sarawak. The
river as many tributaries, and in a number of places is 400 to 500
meters wide. With it's length of 920km the River is the second
largest river of Indonesia, starting at the Muller Mountians and ending
in the Sulawesi Sea.The muddy river at some places will be up to 2 Km
wide and is the high way in to the interior of East Kalimantan. The
lower half of The Mahakam River is populated by Malay and Kutai tribes,
the upper half by the native Dayak tribes. Your journey will take you
through impenetrable tropical forest and dense undergrowth draped in
giant orchids , mangrove flowers and lianes. Instead that much of the
jungle is secondairy growth or has been clearcut. The wildlife is
unusually diverse, monkeys, gibbons, wild ox, wild cats, flying lemur,
martins , weasels, fresh water dolphins, orang utans, sun bear,
leopard, snakes, hornbill birds, parrots, parakeets, and crested
fireback pheasants. Also many kinds of beautiful butterflies and
metallic beetles, poisonous polypods, brightly colored millipedes
&
giant walking sticks can been seen. To get an impression of the
different Dayak cultures & lifestyles, head up to the rivers
tributairies.
Long Apari
Long Afari is a village far into the Mahakam river's upstream reaches.
It can be reached in two hours from a point on the Peangei river. The
people of Long Apari belong to the Aoheng sub-tribe. Unlike those of
other Dayak settlements, houses in long Apari are not built in neat
rows, but are scattered across the hillside.The village is inhabited by
about 800 people, who live from farming, fishing, hunting and working
in gold
mines during the dry season.Some of them make articles of rattan,
Mandau machetes, and pandanus-leaf mats, which they sell in towns and
villages downstream.
Tiong Ohang
Tiong Ohang is the most important village in the Long Apari district.
The village's population has the past decades considerably swollen to
due to migration of people from the surrounding settlement. Building
their houses on the other side of the river, those people till the dry
field for a living. School and public health centers are available in
this village, and life does seem to be better here for the newcomers.
Long Pahangai
Long Pahangai village is divided into two parts, Long Pahangai I and
Long Pahangai II, each led by its own village head. The two parts are
separated by road running parallel to the river. It is a division
caused by religious differences between Christian, Moslems and
Followers of the old animist belief.
Long Tuyok is not far away from Pahangai. Dangerous rapids are found in
the river nearby.Past the rapids, further downstream, is Batu Kelau a
beautiful village with the hills in the background. It is always
covered by fog in the early morning.One has to negotiate several rapids
when going to Long Bangun, sailing downstream. Long Bangun is also a
base camp for loggers.
Long Iram
Long Iram is more like a small town. A boat service connects the
village with Tenggarong. Small lodgings are available.
Barong Tongkok
Barong Tongkok is a nice village and good for spending the night.
Several small waterfalls are found in its surroundings. There are
lodgings, shops, and motorcycles to take visitors to other Dayak
villages. Linongangmapan is 300 meters aside from the village road
between Barong Tongkok and Tering. An ancient megalith site is found
here. To reach the location, one must walk for a distance of about 40
kilometers, starting from kersik Luway.
Other
tourist spots in this regions
include Jentur Gemuruh waterfall and
Pepas Eheng village belongs to the Barong Tongkok district, 209
kilometers from Samarinda . Plait work, rattan furniture and Tunjung
Dayak statues are made here.
Melak
Melak is a rather busy little town and the capital of a district. It
can be reached from Long Iram in about 30 hours or from Tenggarong by
motorboat. The inhabitants of Melak are dayaks of the Tunjung
sub-tribe. Lodgings and a modest restaurant are available in Melak and
it has an old longhouse (betang). Local handicrafts can be bought here.
Kersik Luway Nature Reserve
Kersik Luway is nature reserve between Melak and Barong Tongkok, 18
kilometers to the south. The "Black Orchid" (Coelogyne pandurata) which
blossoms between April and December, grow s on shrubs in this 5,000
hectare reserve. Many hundred of other orchid species also grow in this
forest. The reserve is located 170 kilometers from Samarinda and can be
reached in 32 hours by boat.
Tanjung Isuy
Tanjung Isuy is a settlement of the Benuaq dayak. There is an original
traditional longhouse in the village which welcomes visitors. Woman can
be seen weaving ulap doyo, the traditional free-fiber cloth typical of
the area.Visitors can also see the guardian statues and the grave of a
Benuaq king.In this area, 149 kilometers from Samarinda via Muara
Muntai, we can see floating houses on Lake Jempang .There is a grand
old longhouse in Mancong, 15 kilometers from Tanjung Isuy. Also visit
the lamin ( Longhouses ) of Pentat and Lembunah, on the Ohong River.
Various species of birds, iguanas, and bekantan (Proboces monkeys) live
in the forest along the river .
Muara Muntai
Muara Muntai is not far from Lake Jempang. It is a convenient stop for
visitors traveling into the hinterland.
Lake Melintang
Lake Melintang covers a surface of 10,000 hectares near melintang
village, 150 kilometers away from Samarinda. The scenery here is very
beautiful. A unique sight is that of buffaloes living in pens built on
the water at Lebak Singkil, on the lake. The animals wade through the
water, which is more than one meter deep, while looking for food.
Lake Semayang
Lake Semayang lies at the other side of Lake Melintang,and covers a
surface of 13,000 hectares. Many villages are found in its
surroundings.There are several beautiful small lakes in the vicinity,
such as Manggah, Barambai, Rabok, Tempatung, Kedang Mubung, Wis and
Siran.
Tenggarong
Tenggarong is 39 kilometers away from Samarinda. It is the capital of
the Kutai regency, and is almost two centuries old. Up to 1960, the
regency was know as the special District of Kutai. The remains of the
Kutai Kertanegara Kingdom are found in this town. The old palace is now
the State Museum of Mulawarman.The center of the Kutai Kingdom is
presumed to have been in the vicinity of Muara Kaman. Due to fear of
foreign incursions, it was moved upstream , to Jembayan village. The
King acting on divine advice given to him in a dream, later again moved
the Kingdom's seat of power, to what is now the town of Tenggarong.
Pesut Mahakam ( Water dolphin )
If one is lucky, one might see a pesut Mahakam (orcela fluminalis),
fresh water dolphin, during the trip. The species is also found in the
Mekhong river in Cambodja and in the Amazon. In the Mahakam it usually
surfaces towards sunset in the vicinity of Loangkang.The RASI
Information and Rehabilitation Center at Muara Pahu can tell you
more..
Bontang & Kutai Reserve
Bontang is a well known natural gas producing region in the Kutai
regency, on the east coast of the province. Adjacent to this industrial
complex is the 200,000 hectare Kutai National Park, the natural habitat
of rare tropical flora and fauna. Several species of animals exist in
this national park, such as chimpanzees (Pongopygmacus), Pekantan
Monkeys (Nasalisvatus), honey bear, deer, Kalimantan rhinos, crocodiles
and at least 300 bird species.The forests in the area were declared a
nature reserve by the Sultan of Kutai, A.M. Parikesit in 1936, covering
306,000 hectares of land.
The
forest at Kaba Bay is inhabited by groups of chimpanzees.The sea
gardens in the waters of Kaba Bay are also very alluring. There are
various colored corals and decorative fishes living in the bluish-green
water. Settlements of Bajau people are found around the coastal forests
of Kaba Bay, in Bontang Koala, with houses that are built over the sea.
The areas around the estuary of the Sangkuriang River and the Mahakam
delta are covered with dense mangrove forest.
Tanjung Redep, Tanjung Selor and Tarakan
Tanjung Redep, the capital of the Berau regency has a population of
about 50,000, and is reachable from
Samarinda or Balikpapan. There are motorboats from Tanjung Redep to
Tarakan, a distance of 55 kilometers. The place can also be reached
over sea from Tarakan, in nine hours.
Tanjung Selor is the capital of the Bulungan regency and a relatively
busy town. Transportation to Tarakan Island is smooth and available
daily.
Nunukan, a small town on the island of the same name, is sometimes
referred to as Timber Town. Nunukan thrives on the timber trade. Money
changers are found all over the town. Many small hotels and restaurants
a available. Motor boats connect Tarakan with Nunukan every day. There
are also motorboats departing Nunukan for Tawau and Sabah every
morning.
The distance between Nunukan and Tawau is 30 miles, and can be covered
in three hours by boat.
Derawan Island
Derawan Island has to total land surface of 40,000 hectares and is
nature reserve with beautiful scenery and beaches. Several species of
rare flora and fauna are preserved here, such as scaled turtles,
belimbing turtles and sea cows.
The
waters around Derawan are good for swimming, fishing, scuba diving, and
other water sports.
Maratua Island
Maratua is beautiful Island with a small lake on it and a bay facing
the Sulawesi sea. There are four village : Teluk Harapan, Teluk Alulu,
Bohebelian, and Payung-payung. This area is very suitable for canoe
races, speedboat racing, water skiing, and scuba diving.
Samama Island belongs to the some group as that of Derawan Island.
Samama means "mother". It is a nature reserve for turtles.
Kayan River
The Kayan river with its tributaries stretches from the border area
between Indonesia and Malaysia along the Muller mountain range to its
estuary on the south coast of east Kalimantan. Tanjung Selor, at the
estuary of the Kayan river, is the capital of the Bulungan regency.
This river has a tributary called the Bahau river.
The upstream region of the Kayan river, especially the plateau
(400-1,700 meters above sea level), is called Apo Kayan, inhabited by
Kenyah Dayaks, who live in the villages of Long Sungai Baran, Lindung
Payau, Long Uro, and Long Apung. The plateau is covered with forest and
dry fields. The Dayak settlements are found in areas 400 to 800 meters
above sea level.
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