Simple Tips to Better Shots

Less Water, More Light - The less water you shoot through, the better your pictures will be. So, get as close as possible to your subject. If you think you are close enough, you probably aren't.

Look for Contrast - Dark subjects on a sandy bottom (like a stingray on a sandy bottom), or a light subject on a dark background (like a barracuda watching you with nothing but ocean behind him) make the best photos. A green moray in its hole is naturally camouflaged from predators, as well as from your camera. You'll need very good light if you want anything identifiable to show up.

Shoot Up - Get close to your subject, and try to shoot upwards, to maximize the available surface light. You will also frame your subject against a blue background. The sense of drama is improved when your photos show how deep you are.

Composition - Frame your subject to highlight it. Don't let a reef wall-background overwhelm your subject. Getting close enough will usually dictate your framing for you. Again, get as close as possible.

Use Both Eyes - Don't be afraid to take your 'one' eye out of the viewfinder, look over the camera and size up the shot. Some times, I even hold the camera away from my face, and hold it as close to the subject as possible. This is essential when using the Macro lens built in to the MMII-EX. Remember, you are not looking through the lens, but above it. When your subject gets within a few inches of your lens, your view finder is aiming a good inch above it.

Control Your Breathing - You should never stop breathing while you scuba. However, if your bubbles obscure the fish in your picture, you are wasting your time. Try to angle your body so that your bubbles pass behind your camera, instead of in front of it. Also consider where your bubbles are going if you are 'shooting up.'

Film Selection - This is a tough subject to cover simply. I have always used 400 or 200 film to make up for the fact that I don't have an extra strobe, and therefore am perpetually low on light. (The MMII camera automatically detects the film speed and sets itself at either 50, 100 or 400. I don't know what it decides when I use 200 film.) Draw backs to this, are that the pictures are grainier than 100 ASA films. The pros use slides only. However, for the amateur, this can be expensive, though the quality is undeniably better. Slides and prints are processed differently, so you should check out your processing studio carefully to ensure your photos are developed properly. Print developing can depend upon color selection by the operator, who undoubtedly is not an expert at underwater photography. Unfortunately, like much of the sport of underwater photography, there is a strong relationship between your wallet and your results. (I suggest you skimp on other areas of your dive trip, like food and beer.)

Perhaps the best option is to bring one or two slide rolls with you, and use them on sunny days between 10AM and 2PM, when you will be making shallow dives. Remember, developing slides is expensive, so carefully consider your shots and make them count. Save your cheap rolls of 100 ASA film for snapping buddy shots on the boat.

Sergeant Majors make great subjects because they are territorial and will stand their ground in a coral cave or wreck porthole. Many species of Angel fish are as not afraid of divers either. Barracuda will come check you out (from a safe distance), and they stay to the ocean side of you, so you have deep-blue backgrounds. It doesn't hurt that they are shiny and reflect light.

Don't Shoot Down - Again, don't shoot down unless you have a good subject that stands out against the background. It may feel natural to swim looking down, but the camera will never capture what you see when you look down.

Anticipate - Fish swim forwards, usually parallel to you. Aim slightly ahead and wait for them to come into your frame.

If a fish is swimming away from you, forget it. Even a once-in-a-life-time-encounter is better enjoyed in your memory. You'll never convince your friends that this picture of a shark's tail is actually a hammer-head. You risk missing the sighting, and get home to find your picture doesn't show anything.

Don't Be Afraid To Skip A Shot - The first time I took a camera under water, I finished my roll in 10 minutes. 20 minutes later, I found an octopus.... Aside from being expensive, take your time and choose your shots carefully. Think about keepers. There is always another photo op before you have to head back. Don't waste pictures, either. Pros can take several shots using different settings (called, bracketing), but you'll be broke if you do that. If you have a left over frame at the end of a dive, take a close-up of your buddy at the safety stop. The light's good at 15 feet.

Plan Ahead - If you are planning to take pictures of your buddies, talk with them before hand so they know what's in store.

Aim For the Head - Get close, take head shots to make sure you can see faces behind the gear. Flippers are not interesting. If you don't want to get close, take pictures where the diver interacts with a school of fish. Again, shoot up if you can.

Watch for Bubbles - Take pictures after the subject has exhaled. Don't get your bubbles in the shot either.

Don't Bite Off More Than You Can Chew - Remember, panorama shots without wide angle lenses and extra strobes will probably not come out. You are not at the Grand Canyon. If your buddy picks up a crab or a trunk fish or any marine life (don't hurt it of course!), have them hold it close to their face, so you can have something interesting as a backdrop. A face will reflect more light than a black wet-suit torso. Let them know in advance that they should do this if the opportunity should arise.

If you follow these rules above, you should come home with several good shots on each roll, even without all the fancy equipment.