 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I chopped the backlight 6mm for consistancy. |
|
|
I traced this cut from the soft-top roof. |
|
|
|
|
|
I taped everything together and figured where the rear roof cut needed to be cut. I later scribed along the window. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
 |
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Lastly, the gate is cut down to size. I centered the elblem notched around the latch to save some of the Prowler's lid for strength. |
|
|
Here's how to scribe a parallel line for cutting down a piece. This scatch is a starter line for a #2 blade which is used in reverse. |
|
|
|
|
|
I found that the chop needed reinforcement, so I used the piece removed. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Glued into place the gate is held into postion with props because only the edge is being glued. |
|
I used a strip of Evergreen for support. Notice the body curves don't match. That's what putty is for. |
|
|
|
|
The light vertical stripes are stress areas from cold bending the PT sides to match the Prowler. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
Cutting off the rear roof proved to be a challenge. I made three cuts almost through, then bent and filled with glue. Taped until dry. |
|
|
The rear window seems too low to me but that's where it's staying. |
|
|
|
|
|
I added a couple diagonal cuts in the corners of the roof to fit the hatch. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
|
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|