By: Roger '95 M3 (RogRacer from BimmerForums.com)

Tools required: 32mm flat wrench for fan nut, reaction bar to hold water pump, impact wrench with 24mm socket, 8 mm hex bit with breaker bar, misc wrenches, sockets and stuff.

People required: Just you.

1) You better start by disconnecting that battery, because you are (most likely) going to need to remove the alternator (and the positive lead is hot and we don’t want to practice our welding skills).

2) Remove alternator-cooling duct

3) Remove fan nut with 32 mm wrench and reaction bar. Nut is left-hand (spin clockwise when viewed from front to loosen). Leave fan inside shroud.

4) Put front of car on ramps and/or jack stands. Usual cautions apply.

5) Remove underbody porkchops and splash shield. You may find your splash shield is cracked at the attachments points. Some people have proposed aluminum reinforcements to fix this, but I have had success by adding 3 or 4 plys of fiberglass fabric and polyester resin to reinforce this area.

6) Loosen (do not remove) all the water and power steering pump pulley bolts.

7) Remove the plastic covers off the AC and Alternator belt tensioners and the alternator idler pulley with a flat-blade screwdriver.

8) Using 8 mm hex bit on a breaker bar, loosen A/C belt tensioner and remove AC belt. Mark the belt for orientation so you can reinstall in the same direction. Side note: my tensioner popped apart when it was allowed to expand after removing the belt. An internal snap-ring that is supposed to hold the thing together broke and it sprung apart. I was able to get it back together, but you may want to be on the lookout for this happening to you.

9) Loosen the alternator belt tensioner and remove the belt. You may want to mark this belt also in case you ever want to reinstall it.

10) Remove the water pump and power steering pulleys. Getting the water pump pulley out past the shroud and fan is a tight squeeze, but it can be done.

11) Next up is to remove the alternator pulley. In order to do this, I needed to remove the alternator from the car to hit the nut with an impact wrench. If you are lucky, or maybe have a high-torque ˝ inch drive air ratchet, you may be able to leave it in the car and save a bunch or work. But I needed to get the alternator out, so…

12) To gain access to the alternator I needed to remove my JC Euro intake set-up. You may have enough room to leave it in place, but I found it easier to remove it. I assume you’d have to remove your stock airbox if so equipped.

13) Remove lower and upper alternator bolts with 16mm wrench. The lower bolt is a thru-bolt with a nut on the back side that must be restrained with a wrench while torquing.

14) Leaving wires attached, carefully pull alternator free of mounting. Rotate alternator around so wire connection on back side can be accessed. Be careful with the wires.

15) Peel back rubber boot on wire housing. Remove wire retaining nuts. Note that ground lead has two nuts on a single stud that have to be removed. Remove connector.

16) Remove alternator from car and spin off retaining nut with impact gun and 24mm socket. Replace with Evosport pulley. I torqued mine by hand as best I could and followed up with a medium shot from the impact gun. Not real precise.

17) You may want to take this opportunity to clean the back of your alternator (under the plastic cover) of all the bugs that have been sucked back there.

18) Replace alternator and electrical connections.

19) Attach Evosport water pump and power steering pullies. Give initial torque to all the bolts. I put anti-seize on these bolts as well as the alternator pulley nut.

20) Put on new oversize belt. Some people have reported difficulty here, but mine went on with only a little struggle. The 8mm hex/breaker bar is really helpful here.

21) Torque water and power steering pulley bolts.

22) Replace AC belt.

23) Check over the belt alignments and routing.

24) Reverse all the miscellaneous steps detailed above.

25) Fire up engine and check belts.

26) Go off and enjoy your new 8 ft-lb and 10 hp.