Real Full Flow Conversion Without Drilling and Tapping the Engine Case!

We've all been there.  We have a good running engine already loaded into our car, and things are good.  But in the back of our minds we keep thinking how nice it would be to have our engine full flowed for an oil filter, and possibly an oil cooler as well.  The big problem with that is of course, you have to drop the engine, and drill and tap the case for the return line.  Sure, you could get the filter/pumps, but many argue the actual 'full flow'  characteristics of these, and others dont like the idea of the oil filter sitting in the direct path of the hot air coming off the heads and cylinders.  Anyway, either way you look at it, a 'real' full flow setup is the superior way to go. For this full flow project, I am converting a brand new 1600 from Aircooled.Net to go in my 64 Bus.  Aircooled.Net offers a 'Full Flow Kit', which includes the pump cover, oil hose, the oil filter adapter, and ALL the fittings you need to convert your engine.  I did have to order a new oil pump that was already plugged on the outlet side for the full flow to work. You can do this yourself if you want, but I opted to make it easy on myself and order the pump also.  Another thing I ordered from Aircooled.Net, which made this whole process slick, was an adapter that makes it so you dont have to drill and tap the motor for the return line.  You can only use this adapter on dual relief cases, NOT single relief, otherwise, you would have no oil pressure relief valve to keep things in check.

Now you can do this whole process with your engine still in the car.  You will need to remove the rear most piece of engine tin, the crank pulley, and the tin that sits behind that, in order to change out the oil pump to a plugged oil pump (a needed item for full flow), and to install the full flow oil pump cover.  One thing to make sure of, is that your oil pump studs are long enough for the added items.  You can see for reference, how much extra stud is needed in order to fit the cover from the stock pump setup to the full flow.  Lucky for me, the new engines that come from the VW plant in Mexico, have extra long studs to begin with.  They ended up being the perfect length.

Next thing on the list, is to remove the oil pressure relief valve that is nearest to the crank pulley.  Do not remove the relief valve from the flywheel end.  After you pull the plug, remove the spring, and the piston.

And this is the adapter that Aircooled.Net offers to make this whole thing work.  The quality is very nice, not something you would expect to find in a J.C. Whitney catalog.  A nicely finished piece.    And now a further shot away to show the whole orientation of the setup.  With the fitting where it is, it does not interfere with the sheetmetal or the exhaust system.

And one thing I decided to do while I was at this whole thing, was to install a sump plate with a drain plug.  While I was at it, I decided, since I have a filter on the system now, I'd pull the stock screen out.  I know, I'm risking pulling 'something' into the pump and trashing the pump, but it's a chance I'll take.

Well, It's been a few days since I installed this setup in my bus, and I tell you what, it works great.  I have great oil pressure and no leaks whatsoever from the oiling system.  I have to honestly say, the days of me drilling and tapping engine cases for the full flow treatment are over, this way is MUCH too easy.  I'd like to thank John C. at Aircooled.Net for letting me know when he got this item avaliable.  This is an item I HIGHLY recommend to anyone looking to add an oil filter and/or oil cooler to thier existing motor.  The whole process only takes a couple hours which is mostly to change the pump out.  The other part just goes right in, in a matter of minutes.