MR2 Taillight Mod

91 to 94 Conversion

These instructions are to aid in swapping your 1991-3 taillights for the 1994-5 ones. I took these pictures as I returned my 1991 to the stock configuration, so if some pictures seem backwards, that is why. I have included instructions for rekeying the lock, but I left out details about the wiring. It is fairly self explanatory, I think the wires are even the same colors. If you need part numbers or ordering info, click here.

Disclaimer: The reader of these instructions follows them at his own risk. I will not be held responsible for any damage or injury resulting from the use of these instructions. As always, what you do to your car is your business.

Tools required:

Stage 1: Removing the 91 lights
Open the trunk all the way, and get any junk out that will block access to the rear wall. Pry the plastic cover at the top of the sill away with your hands. It has six pop-connections.

Remove the two carpet retainers. To do this, push in the center piece until it clicks. Then remove both pieces together and set them aside.

Remove the triangle sidemarker from the taillamp. To do this, pull on the aft end where it sticks out. Or if your hands are slippery, you can pry at the aft edge with a screwdriver. Then remove the two screws behind the sidemarker.

Remove the black screw that holds the taillamp to the center honeycomb panel. Then pull the taillamp away from the body, starting at the outboard edge. There are two clips that are holding it.

Now pull back the wall carpet and look for the plug for the taillamp. It comes through the rear wall of the trunk through a grommet. Disconnect the plug and push the grommet through the wall. Your old taillamp should now be free from the car.

Stage 2: Removing the honeycomb panel
Remove the four 8mm nuts that hold the panel to the rear wall.


There are two clips still holding the panel in place, but these are unlike any you have ever seen before. Make sure there is nothing behind you, grab both sides of the panel, and pull with all your might. The panel will flex in your hands and you will think I am wrong, but it will eventually let go. Do not attempt to remove the two remaining clips from the trunk wall, it is not worth it.

Stage 3: Removing the short lock cylinder
Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the lock cylinder to the rear wall.

Remove the C-clip that holds the cable-release to the lock cylinder. The clip can be pryed out with a screwdriver. Take care not to lose the washer or the plastic spacer underneath. Both of these pieces are about 1/2" in diameter, and easy to keep track of.

Unhook the cable release sleeve from the lock cylinder. It can be popped out by hand. Take the short lock cylinder and your new long lock cylinder to a clean, well lit place to change the pins.

Stage 4: Changing the pins

Stage 5: Installing the long lock cylinder
Place the long lock cylinder into the hole in the rear wall. Place the cable release mechanism onto it, and secure it in place with the C-clip.

Press the cable release sleeve back into the bracket.

Install the two 10mm bolts that hold the lock cylinder to the rear wall.

Stage 6: Changing the taillamp clips
Remove the 91 style white clips from the body, they are held on with phillips head screws.

Install the 94 style clips. They will screw in tightly, so be careful as it is easy to strip the plastic phillips head slots.

Stage 7: The Wiring Job
Install the reverse lamps onto the backside of the solid center panel. I cut the plug off my 91 lamps and soldered it to the end of the wires on the 94 harness. Also, the reverse lamps are seperate for the 94 lamps, so I soldered them to the plug on the left taillamp.
This part is really up to you, but I suggest soldering and shrink wrapping the wires for a high quality connection that will last.

Stage 8: Installing the solid center panel
Hold the center panel up to the rear wall, and note which sheet metal ribs interfere with the reverse lamps. Fold up a towel or cloth until it is about 1/4-1/2" thick. Place this towel over a rib and hold it at the edges. **Carefully** hammer the rib until it is bent inward enough to accomodate the reverse lamp without touching. Do not force the lamp up against the sheet metal.


If you cannot handle hammering on your car, some people choose to cut out the rib. However, I personally believe this will allow water into the trunk unless you find a way to seal it.
Once there is space for the reverse lamps, install the panel and secure it with the same four 8mm nuts that held the original honeycomb panel in place.


Stage 9: Installing the 94 lights
Insert the plug through the hole in the rear wall.

Reach into the trunk, and pull on the wire bundle until the grommet plugs the hole. You can make final adjustments with your hand.


Reconnect the white plug.
Hold the taillamp in place, then carefully press in onto the clips. Align the hole for the screw that connects to the center panel. Install but do not tighten this screw. (Picture shows 91 lights)

Install and tighten the other two screws that go behind the side marker.

Now tighten the black screw in the center panel. Install the side marker by clipping to the taillamp at the front and pressing the back in until it clicks.

Stage 10: Cleaning up
Return the carpetting to the wall, and insert the two carpet retainers into their holes. To do this, back out the center piece to it stick out as shown in the picture. After inserting the retainer into the hole in the rear wall, press the center piece until it clicks and is even with the surrounding piece.


Place the sill cover in place, aligning the center hole with the trunk latch. Gently press the six pop-connections back into place. (Picture shows 91 lights)

Now stand back and admire your work.

Last updated December 15, 2001