G BODY SWAP PAGE #2
Exhaust System
The basic question is Smog Legal or not? If you need to pass smog,you're limited in your choices since you will need to retain the catalytic converter in the stock location. You're limited to a single cat if using the stock LG4 or L69(HO) style emissions system(I won't go into smog legality in my article, you're on your own on that one). Both Edelbrock,and Heddman offer complete cat forward exhaust systems for the single cat setup.If using cast manifolds,use the ones off of a TPI 350 powered F-body (they have a 2.25 inch outlet while others have 1.825 inch outlets)with a factory Y pipe converted to run a 3 inch (or larger!)single cat.From there use a Flowmaster 3 inch to dual 2.5 or 2.25 inch y pipe splitting to duals(this is the system I use).If you want to run duals,and don't have to worry about emissions(i.e. race car or a swap in which it's legal),Maximum Torque Specialties offers a dual hump crossmember that will allow duals to be fabricated by a local exhaust shop.
Cooling System
Your needs here will vary depending on what you started with and what you're swapping in! If you're using a late model Gen 2 LT1,you will need a F body radiator to accomidate it's unorthodox cooling system.For anything else,your neds depend on how mugh power you're making. My radiator came out of a 1978 Olds Cutlass with a Olds 350.It's a 3 core unit and bolts right in. I used a 305 fan shroud,and a clutch fan. You should note that fan shrouds are specific to the engine family,so you will need one from a SBC car.It's also important to use the rubber bushings that the radiator rests on in the core supports that match the tank width you have.My whole system is from the junkyard,and cost me under $100.I also used a factory oil cooler setup from a 9C-1 Caprice(cop car). It only cost me around $30 at the junkyard-just be careful to thouroughly clean a used oil cooler before using it.To use one,you'll need to cut in half  the hardline that bolts to the cooler and splice in a piece of high pressure,high heat ,solvent resistant hose in both the inlet and outlet.As with any system you take from a junk car make sure to get every clamp,hose,gasket(you won't be reusing them),bolt,and nut from the donor vehicle.If you have a really nasty engine with large amounts of compression,and a large cam,you will need to spend a lot more on your cooling system,not just to avoid overheating,but to quell detonation as well.An Aluminum radiator,electric fans, oil cooler,relays,wiring,thermostatic fan switch,aftermarket water pump and trans cooler could easily come dangerously close to costing $1000,so think before you build a wild engine!
Step by Step Basics for Disassembly
First  step is to get all of your parts together.Make sure that you salvaged all of the necessary fasteners from a junk vehicle before you begin.Remember that a Small Block Chevy is SAE,NOT Metric like a Buick V6!After getting your fasteners,clean, paint and organize them.Home Depot has multi compartment organizers that will come in handy for this,and they are less than $10.
   Assemble all of the accessories to the engine,including the exhaust manifolds and y pipe,and the wiring harness. You should also bolt the transmission to the engine and put the starter on now too.It makes life so much easier!
   You are now ready to start disassembling the car. You may not like my suggestion, but I find it easier to do this swap with the front clip removed.So,remove the front clip by removing the ten bolts that retain it(2 in the core support,2 in each doorsill, 1 on each side of the cowl,and 1 in the bottom of each fender by the rocker panel).  You will also need to remove 1 bolt with a huge washer in each wheelwell.Be sure to keep all of the body shims and bolts organized and cataloged as to their original location for ease of reassembly(use plastic sandwich bags).DO NOT DISCARD the metal piece below the core support body bushings.Failure to use them will result in the fan hitting the shroud,and poor body alignment!Next remove the hoses from the radiator,the fan shroud,transmission cooler lines and finally the radiator.Now remove the hood latch,and unbolt the wiring harness bulkead connector from under the wiper motor using a .25"socket and long extension.Next,remove the A/C Condenser from in front of the radiator(did you remember to have the system discharged?). You are now ready to pull the front clip.Get a friend or family member(assuming they haven't all disowned you by now)since it's rather cumbersome and you may damage the car if done improperly. Next remove the computer wiring harness from under the A/C box.It will need to be unplugged from inside the car in order to come free.It is not necessary to unwire the engine,since it can come out at the same itme as the engine.Next,disconnect the throttle cable,speedometer cable,shift linkage,any ground cables and exhaust.Finally,remove the driveshaft,unbolt the transmission mount-from the transmission,and unbolt the motor mounts.The engine and transmission,with all accessories,should now come free with the aid of an engine hoist.(at this point,you should be 2-3 hours into the project) You now are ready to disassemble the front suspension.
    To disassemble the front end,you will need a ball-joint seperator,a INTERNAL coil spring compressor,and a set of Metric sockets-15mm,and 13mm especially.First,remove the swaybar endlinks from the lower control arms.Next,remove the shocks.Now,install the spring compressor and compress the spring slightly.Now remove the cotter pin from the lower balljoint and loosen but DO NOT remove the castellated nut If you plan to rebuild the frontend now is the time to remove the brake caliper (not the hose,though)and tie it off out of the way.Another thing you want to do if rebuilding the frontend now is to remove the tierod ends.
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