1. Get materials together: Pressure-treated 2x6 or 2x8 for the base, clear pine 1x6 for the ties, about 8 feet of rail, half-inch 19-gauge wire nails for spikes, PC7 paste epoxy, and paint. The main tools required are table saw, bench vise, drill, hacksaw, file, and needlenose pliers.
2. Determine the size and shape of turnout you want. Many of my turnouts are curved to fit the space, so they don't follow a hard-and-fast rule about angles and dimensions. But standard turnouts have a number designation that refers the angle of the frog. A number 3 is very sharp, a number 8 is very long. Number 6 is a good size. It measures 17 inches from point to frog. Leaving a few inches on either side gives you a base 23 inches long.
3. Prepare rail, ties, and base. Paint the sides of the rail. I prefer Rustoleum Satin Chestnut Brown. For the ties, rip cut 3/8 inch strips, then cut those to 1/4 by 3/8. Sand off the burrs and spray paint all 4 sides. Cut 9 lengths of 3 3/8 inch, 8 lengths of 4 inch, 4 of 4.5 inch, 3 of 5 inch, 6 of 5.5, and 3 of 6 inch. Then spray paint the ends. Cut the base from a 2x8 or 2x10 (usually straighter than 2x6), 3 inches longer than the turnout will be, 4 inches wide at the points side, 6 inches wide at the frog side. Notch each end to secure a 1x4 for the adjoining track. Paint all sides with house paint or spray paint.
The rest of the work can be done on your workbench.
4. Lay out the ties on the base on 1-inch centers. Use 3 small ties at the point side, then two 5.5-inch ties gapped to fit another one between as a throwbar, then the 4 inch, 4.5 inch, and so on.
5. Cut a piece of rail for the straight rail the length of the base. Mark where the point rail will meet it, on the first 5-inch tie. On the vise, file off the base of this rail 3 inches and tapered for another 3 inches. This will leave room for the point rail to join it.
6. Spike this first rail in place, just on the ends and one in the center.
7. Cut a second piece of rail for the curved outside rail. File it like you did the first one. This time, installation will determine the size and shape of the turnout. Shape the rail with a nice even curve from the points to the frog, but leave it straight around the frog, and give it a little kink at the points. Gauge the rails 90-92 mm where the frog will be. Also gauge the rails 55 mm at 6 inches away from the points, and 45 mm from the points to the end.
8. Now is a good time to check the overall shape of the turnout. If it's a custom turnout for a specific location in the track, take it outside and check it just to be sure.
9. Spike the rails on all the ties, except for the 6 inches between the points and the pivot.
10. Using a 45 mm gauge, find the exact point where the diverging tracks meet. This is the point of the frog. Mark a spot about a quarter inch away from the points. This is to reduce the chance of wheels derailing at the frog.
11. Cut a piece of rail from this point to the edge. This will be for the straight side. Then file the rail at a taper. Also file the side of the head for about a half inch from the edge. Fit this rail and give it a few spikes just to locate it, 45 mm gauge for the most part, but 45.5 to 46 at the actual point.
12. Do the same for the corresponding rail on the curved side.
13. Measure the point where the diverging rails are gauged at 86 mm. This is where the wing rails will bend away from the closure rails. Typically this is about 1 1/4 inch from the frog point.
14. Measure the point where the point rails will pivot. It should be on the center of the tie closest to 55 mm gauge, about 6 inches from the points.
15. Cut a piece of rail from the pivot to 1.5 inches beyond the frog point. Make a cut on the base of the rail where the toe will be (Step 13). Bend it slightly at this point and about a half inch from the end.
16. Spike down this piece 45 mm gauge from the straight rail, bending the wing rail so it is parallel to the curved rail.
17. Do the same for the other closure rail.
18. Now it's really taking shape. Make adjustments now so that the closure rails are gauged 45 mm from the pivot to the toe, and the wing rails are 41 mm from the opposite rail.
19. Cut and install a couple pieces of tie material to fill in under the area from the toe to the frog.
20. Mix up a batch of paste epoxy and fill in to the frog area. Since it holds its basic shape, you can form it so that its surface will be about 2 mm below the top of the rails.
21. Cut and install guardrails, about 3 inches long, bend the ends slightly, and spike against the stock rails so that the gap is 3 mm. You may have to file a notch for spikes between the two rails.
22. Cut a piece of rail to use as the straight point rail. File it so it will have a smooth even taper as it joins the closure rail. File the head of the rail as well, this time a taper about an inch long. This filing might take a good 10 to 20 minutes.
23. Do the same for the other point rail.
24. Using a 1/8-inch bit, drill a hole near the pivot end of the point rail on the side the faces the closest rail. Drill another hole on the other end where the throwbar will be. File all holes smooth.
25. File a small portion off the head of one of the spikes. With filed side facing the rail, drive the spike through the pivot hole and push in until the points can still move but with little slop. Do the same with the other pivot.
26. Shorten a spike to 1/4 inch and file off part of the head. Use this spike to attach the point rail to the throwbar. If it's too long, the throwbar won't move. Spike the other point rail in the same way, giving the rails about 4.5 mm travel. Check your turnout for smooth operation.
27. If you are using a switch machine or ground throw, now is the time to install it. Otherwise install a small bolt or piece of wood and you can use it to throw the turnout.
28. Spike the outside of the stock rails. At least halfway you may want to drill a hole in the base of the rail and put a spike here, to keep the rail from drifting too close to the point rail.
29. Recheck the gauges throughout the turnout. Make sure all parts are gauged 45 mm except a little wider at the frog point.
30. Next day, scrape and file the epoxy on the frog until the surface is 3 mm beneath the top of the rail.
31. You've just finished your turnout. Install on the railroad and enjoy!
