I use Aristo remote control systems and several sizes and types of batteries. So far I have 15 setups, ranging from power cars to single locomotives to pairs of locomotives.
I started with battery power in 1992. I had tried track power with aluminum rail and Bachmann engines but the trains jerked and stalled often. After reading an article on Larry Rose's Rio Verde Western, I was inspired to try battery power for myself. My first setups were crude but they worked, and over the years I discovered new types of batteries, Aristo remotes, and different ways to install the systems. I am very happy with battery power and highly recommend it for garden railroads.
ADVANTAGES:
No need to clean track. Trains always run smoothly.
No need to tighten rail joiners or buy rail clamps.
No wiring needed for reverse loops, wyes, and sidings.
You can run more than one train on the same track.
Saves money on track since you can use aluminum rail and build your own turnouts.
Saves money on wheels since you don't need to change over to metal wheels.
DISADVANTAGES:
Requires rewiring of locomotives (except new Aristo models)
Cost of remote controls and batteries.
Units must be charged before use.
Runtime limited when using larger locomotives and long trains.
WHAT IT'S LIKE TO RUN WITH BATTERY POWER
Turn on the power switch, pick up the remote, and go! During the first run of the day, you may have to pick up sticks and leaves off the track, but no need for track cleaning. If you want to run another train on the same track, no problem, but they can collide if you don't pay attention. If your train is out of range, about 50 feet in my case, you may have to get closer to it to control it. At the end of the run, switch the train onto a sheltered track or run the engine onto a carrier tote. Always remember to turn off the power switch and the headlight. That's all there is to it!
BATTERY TYPES
LiIon (Lithium Ion) - Very high power-to-weight ratio, cost relatively high. Requires specific charger and battery protection circuitry. Excellent for railroad use.
NiMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) - High power-to-weight ratio, moderate cost. Excellent for railroad use, especially for power cars (less trailing weight) and certain locomotives that don't have lots of room for batteries. One "quirk" is that they lose a fraction of their charge every day. On the other hand, they seem to last longer than other types and they don't have a "memory" like NiCads.
NiCad (Nickel Cadmium) -Midpriced and readily available, can be fast charged, but limited range, and they should be fully discharged before recharging. When they lose charge, they lose it quickly, sometimes stranding your train where it's hard to get to. They must be discharged completely before recharging.
Gel Cell (lead acid) - Inexpensive but heavy. Good when mounted in a locomotive, as they add weight where it's wanted. Charge depletes gradually, giving you plenty of warning when charge is getting weaker. Last a long time if charged slowly and never completely discharged.
VOLTAGES AND AMP-HOUR RATINGS
Batteries can be wired in series to add voltage. The total voltage is available for for the receiver and also for the charger. I generally use 12 volts for switchers and slower trains, and 18 volts for mainline trains and certain models such as the SD45 and LGB mogul. The batteries can be charged at a slightly higher voltage - like 14 volts for a 12 volt set.
Battery capacity is rated in amp-hours. For garden railroad use, I recommend batteries in the 3 to 4 amp-hour range. A 3-amp-hour battery set will last about 2 or 3 hours with a single engine and a ten-car train. I use 4-amp-hour batteries to power a pair of FA's or U25's and they last about 3 or 4 hours. When running trains for extended periods, the voltage from the batteries drops as the batteries lose their charge. Sometimes this causes receivers to malfunction, but with gel cells it could also shorten battery life.
BATTERY SIZES, WEIGHTS, AND PRICES
This information is now at this link: Batteries
REMOTE CONTROLS
There are several systems on the market, but I only have experience with Aristocraft. I have several versions of the 5470 and both versions of Onboard. The 5470's are high-capacity, reliable units, and can be found for 100 to 120 dollars per set (transmitter and receiver). I find it is convenient to have a separate transmitter with each receiver. The newer 10-channel receiver can be mounted in an engine or freight car when taken out of its case. It has a very important safety feature: hitting the stop or reverse button does not cause a sudden jerk; it slows and reverses smoothly, saving motors and gears.
1. Battery car: with batteries and receiver mounted in a gondola or boxcar, you can use a battery car with any properly-wired engine you have. You can also mount batteries so they are easily replaced with a fresh set, using clips or velcro strips. You can also add a second or third car to distribute the weight of the batteries.
2. Contained within a locomotive: there is enough room to house NiMH batteries and an onboard receiver in some engines. FA's and RDC's have plenty of room. An RS-3 has less room but I was able to mount 18 volts of 3-ah batteries and an older onboard receiver into it by gutting out the insides. SD-45's and Dash 9's have room for batteries in the fuel tanks as well as in the body.
3. Locomotive mounted, multiple engines: By distributing batteries among two engines, you can fit bigger batteries and receivers. Longer trains look good with more than one engine anyway. I have three sets wired this way, a pair of U25's and two sets of FA/FB's, all with two 4-amp-hour gel cells in one unit and a gel cel and big receiver in the other.
For photos of most of my battery power installations, from simple on/off setups to battery cars to self-propelled locomotives, click on:
P&C BATTERY-POWERED INSTALLATIONS
CONNECTORS
Since I started on battery power before it was popular, I've used a few types of connectors that might not be what others are using today. But they work for me and are easily available.
Loco to power car: 3.5 mm mono phono plug, on a wire protruding from the back of the locomotive. All Electronics #PMP. 3.5 mm mono jack on front of power car, usually mounted just above the coupler. All Electronics #MJW-8.
Power car to newer Aristo locomotives: you can get them from Aristocraft or All Electronics, #CON-240. Another alternative is to modify 0.1-inch header connectors such as All Electronics #CON-242.
Battery charging jack: mounted on power car, or on fuel tank of battery-equipped locomotives. Don't use a phono plug for this. I use a 2.1 mm Co-ax power jack. All Electronics #DCJ-12 or DCJ-21.
Battery charger cable and plug: 2.1 mm co-ax plug. All Electronics #DCSID.
For step-by-step instructions on how to install a battery-power system in a battery car or locomotive, go to: Step-by-Step Installation
To make a charger, I make a wooden box about 6 by 7 inches by 3 inches high. The cover is 3 mm luaun plywood. The transformer is a DC wall transformer, or an AC transformer plus a bridge rectifier. I connect the negative side to the solid black wire, which is connected to the outside conductor of a 2.1-volt coax power plug. The positive side is wired in series through the rheostat and ammeter, then to the white-striped wire and the inside conductor of the plug. You can safely charge a 12 volt battery set with 12 to 15 volts, and an 18 volt set with 18 to 22 volts.
Of all the components for the battery charger, the rheostat is the hardest to find. I use 50 ohm 50 watt rheostats that I had in my HO days, and I occasionally find them at train meets. Rheostats can also be found at mouser.com in the $25 range or at surplussales.com in the $6 to 15 range. You can use values in the 50-80 ohm range, 25 or 50 watt. The less the wattage, the more heat is generated. Less than 50 ohms means you might not be able to turn down the charger's current output low enough. Higher than 80 ohms gives you less range and you will be using a smaller portion of the dial.
Different locomotives can have a wide range of the amount of current they use. The higher the current draw, the sooner it will drain the batteries and require a recharge. Aristo 4-axle engines and the USA NW-2 and 44-tonner are in the same range: about a half amp starting and one amp pulling a modest train. USA Geeps and the Aristo SD45 use about twice as much current. One solution I have found is to remove motors and gears that aren't needed, as I did with the GP7 set shown above. An SD45 can run just fine with 5 axles (3 motors instead of 4). The U25 set has 3 trucks powered and pulls a good size train. The RDC has only one truck powered, and on level track it can pull 7 heavyweight cars!
You can power a small engine - in this case an Aristocraft Eggliner - for as low as 14 dollars! Go to:
Battery Powered Eggliner