The Casual Restaurant Critic
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D'Bocca
September, 2004

Is it Italian? Is it a steakhouse? What is D'Bocca anyway? Well, it used to be Italian-ish some time ago, but now the advertising in the form large 'steak on the grill' photos on a large banner and on the menu indicate that it is a steakhouse. But it isn't really. It's a collection of all kinds of things, judging from the menu.

The Casual Restaurant  Critic decided to sacrifice family unity for the sake of finding some new lunch options in Mérida, and while the rest of the Casual Family wanted to revisit Bologna and enjoy their proven good food, the Critic insisted on visiting D'Bocca. Somewhat skeptical, the Casual Family entered D'Bocca.

The restaurant itself is cool (air conditioning, not groovy) lighting is low and the furniture comfortable with white linen covered tabletops and seating. But this is not Architectural Digest On-Line, so let's keep this part brief. Music is mellow pop, on this occasion a CD of everyone from Britney to Alannis was on repeat play, creating alternating nauseous and sing-a-long moments for the Casual Daughters, improving their mood a little.

When asked how many there were in the party, the little man at the door who was probably the owners son or something basically pointed to a table and then went back to whatever he was doing to/on the computer at the entrance.

Once seated, drink orders were taken and when those arrived, so did the menus. After what seemed an unreasonably long time, and after making eye contact across the room with the waiter, the little man came to take the order.

Cheese sticks for everyone (as in one order in the middle of the table), onion soup, chistorra spanish sausage and a D' Beba salad were appetizers and for the second course, a New York steak with a roquefort crust, two arracheras and a 'capresse' salad. Since one of the Critic's party was only having the salad, the Critic asked the waiter to bring that salad out with the rest of the second courses, so as not to have that person sitting there while the rest of the table ate. This little detail, of course, was ignored and the salad came out with the rest of the appetizers.

The food?

Well, there was bread on the table (4 pieces, one for each member of the group), looking a lot like it came from Costco, and not warm, along with rock hard little multicolor butter balls (4 pieces, don't want to overdo things). One was eaten by the smallest member of the Casual Family. When another one was pulled out of the basket (why wrap them in a cloth if they're not warm? thinks the Critic as he writes this) it revealed a bite shaped piece missing. Coincidence? Who knows? Who wants to know? No more bread was eaten.

The cheese sticks were breaded, and again, probably a Costco item, with thousand island-like dressing drizzled on top. The cheese inside was not melted though, probably needed a little more time in the deep fryer.

The chistorra was served with 3 corn tortillas, a green tomatillo sauce and was a little on the dry side. Much better chistorra at El Mesón del Segoviano. Onion soup was devoured without much complaint and looked oniony enough, but not much melted cheese on top. The ensalada D'Beba was served without the berejena empanizado (breaded eggplant) offered on the menu, which had to be asked for, along with the vinegrette dressing. The 'capresse' salad was the most visually appealing, with the tomato and mozzarella slices stacked on top of one another, with olive oil and fresh basil leaves on and around the little tower.

For the main course; the arracheras, a typically mexican dish, served with guacamole and very dry beans tucked in a baked pastry-like shell. There were no salsas or tortillas on the table or even offered. The New York steak was tasty, although with what seemed like a lot of fat. It came with either baked potatoes, fries or green salad. The salad was fresh and crisp.

There was an uncomfortable burning smell in the restaurant while the Critic's party waited for their food, kind of like burning milk or cheese. Not pleasant. 

No-one ordered dessert or coffee, nor were they offered.

The bill came to $760 pesos, without tip. Only one alcoholic beverage was consumed.

In terms of value for the money, you would be far better off visiting Nectar or Campay Sushi where your bill will come to about the same, but you will enjoy much better food, service and ambience. If you are on a limited time visit to Mérida, not visiting D'Bocca will be no loss.

D'Bocca, is in a triangular building located across from the shopping plaza El Centrito and at the intersection of various streets, very near the new Chevrolet and Fiat dealerships. If you are visiting Mérida and are unfamiliar with the city, it would be best to ask locals or take a cab.

Casual Critic Rating: 2

Beginning 1999, the Critic started rating the places he visited. Here's the scoop:

 

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