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Is it time to chuck meat?

Compelling evidence supports vegetarianism as a hedge against cancer and heart disease

By John Fauber
of the Journal Sentinel staff

March 16, 1997

Except for those who hunt, fish, ranch or just like meat, vegetarianism probably sounds like a great idea.

The practice, once considered quirky, has gained ground in recent years by appealing to a diverse group, including those who want to save animals and those who want to save their own hides.

The fat and cholesterol in animal products has long been implicated in heart disease, the No. 1 killer in the United States, and now red meat, especially, has been linked to higher incidence of a number of common forms of cancer.

Whatever the motivation, vegetarianism has become mainstream.

The Farm Animal Reform Movement, an animal rights group that is sponsoring the 13th annual Great American Meatout on Thursday, claims that more than 30 million Americans have explored the idea of a meatless diet, although some may no longer be vegetarian. Various surveys put the number of vegetarians at between 1% and 7% of the population.

Every year, it gets easier to be a vegetarian. From vegetable stir-fries to low-fat Tombstone veggie pizzas, restaurants and grocery stores now offer a large selection of vegetarian items.

Outpost Natural Foods carries about a dozen different brands of imitation burger products, most made from soy protein.

One new popular soy-based product, the Boca Burger, tastes remarkably like real hamburger, especially when it is grilled in olive oil, topped with grilled onions and a slice of mozzarella cheese and served on a whole-wheat bun.

At the more traditional grocery store, Grasch Foods in Brookfield, there are at least seven different types of veggie pizzas. The store also sells fresh packaged meatless dishes such as hummus, baba ghannouj, falafel balls and tabbouleh.

Co-owner Bob Grasch said that in the meat department, "the shift has been from beef to chicken and seafood as well."

Reflecting that shift, the term vegetarian has become easier to throw around.

Some people who have eliminated red meat from their diet but still eat fish and poultry consider themselves vegetarians, even though true vegetarians eat no flesh food. Even more stringent are vegans, who also have eliminated dairy products and eggs; their claim is that even though animals are not directly killed for their milk or eggs, the process can lead to suffering and slaughter. For instance, calves born to dairy cows often are killed for veal.

Many of those who turn to vegetarianism for philosophical reasons are teenage girls.

A 1995 survey done for the Vegetarian Resource Group found that 11% of girls ages 13 to 17 were vegetarians, compared with 7% of adult females.

"I feel guilty eating meat," said Jeannine Ruby, 16, of the Town of Delafield. "I like animals."

Ruby said she had been a vegetarian since 7th-grade.

Because of concerns about her weight, her parents had her see a dietitian about a year ago. At the time, Ruby said she had been getting most of her protein from peanuts. She said she since has added more lentils and beans to her diet and has gained about 10 pounds.

Her mother, Gay Ruby, said she believes her daughter's diet is healthy and that it had resulted in both herself and her husband eating less meat.

Several scientific studies over the past decade have given consumers additional motivation to eat less meat:

Red meat and fat consumption appear to be associated with colon cancer, the second-leading cause of cancer death in the United States, a disease that strikes women and men at about the same rate.

A study of the Seventh-Day Adventists, who eat little red meat and animal fat, found that they had about half the rate of colon cancer as the general population. They also refrain, however, from drinking alcohol and smoking, which may also contribute to their better health.

A separate, ongoing study by the Harvard School of Public Health involving 89,000 nurses found that those who ate the most animal fat were almost twice as likely to develop colon cancer as those who ate the least. The nurses who ate skinless chicken or fish instead of beef, pork or lamb, cut their risk by 50%.

At least two studies also have linked high-fiber, low-fat diets to a significant reduction in the number of precancerous colon and rectal polyps. It is speculated that fiber moves through the colon faster and, as a result, limits the exposure of the colon wall to carcinogenic substances.

The American Cancer Society also says that high-fat diets, especially those high in red meat, have been linked to increased prostate cancer.

In one study of 48,000 male health professionals ages 40 to 75, it was found that those who ate the highest amount of fat had 79% more cases of advanced prostate cancer, according to the New Wellness Encyclopedia from the University of California at Berkeley.

Those who ate the most red meat had a 164% higher incidence of advanced prostate cancer than those who ate the least.

Last year, the American Cancer Society, citing the colon and prostate cancer link, came out with dietary guidelines recommending that people limit their intake of red meat and consume more fruits, vegetables and whole grains.

Earlier this month, the U.S. Agriculture Department, over the strong objections of the beef industry, said yogurt could be substituted for beef in school lunch programs.

In January, for the first time, the government gave its blessing to vegetarian diets in its Dietary Guidelines for Americans. It noted, however, that vegetarians need to be sure they are getting adequate iron, zinc and B vitamins.

Still, red meat remains popular.

After hitting a high of 127 pounds per person in 1980, consumption dropped off to about 112 pounds in 1990, partly because of closer trimming of fat. Consumption has stayed at about that level since then.

At the same time, dining out for steak appears to have become more popular. The number of people eating at casual and upscale steakhouses increased 24% between 1994 and 1996, according the National Cattlemen's Beef Association.

Beef remains the primary menu item at restaurants, accounting for 40% of selections, compared with about 20% for chicken, 12% for fish and 10% for vegetables, according to the beef association.

Beef easily can fit into a healthful low-fat diet, said C.J. Valenziano, a spokeswoman for the association.

"Even ground beef fits into a heart-healthy diet," she said. "You can have sausage for breakfast; you just have to do something else the rest of the day."

But if you want to explore vegetarianism, even if it is for pure self-interest rather than for altruism, the anti-meat movement is waiting with open arms.

"Whatever brings somebody in," said Scott Williams, executive director of the Farm Animal Reform Movement. "If people want to come at it from the health angle, I don't have a problem with that."

The following vegetarian recipes, all quick and easy, are from the Vegetarian Resource Group.

Rigatoni Combination

1/3 pound rigatoni or other pasta
1 onion, chopped
1 clove garlic
1/2 green bell pepper, chopped
1 teaspoon olive or vegetable oil
1 can (15 to 16 ounces) tomato sauce
1 can (1 pound) kidney beans, drained
1 teaspoon soy sauce (optional)
1/4 teaspoon salt (optional)
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
Black pepper to taste
2 cups tofu or low-fat cottage cheese (optional)
Hot pepper sauce (optional)

Cook pasta according to package instructions; drain and set aside.

Saute onion, garlic and green pepper in saucepan in oil 4 to 5 minutes or until soft. Stir in tomato sauce, beans, soy sauce if using, salt if using, chili powder and pepper. Simmer several minutes.

Stir sauce into pasta. Serve as is, or add 1/2 cup crumbled tofu or cottage cheese to each serving to make a lasagna-like dish. Add hot sauce if desired. Makes 4 servings. Note: To decrease fat content, saute in water instead of oil or just brush pan lightly with an oiled paper towel.

Sweet Sauteed Red Cabbage

1/2 head of red cabbage, shredded
1 apple, chopped
1 small onion, chopped
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup raisins
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Combine all ingredients in non-stick pan and cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes. Makes 4 servings.

Spicy Potatoes, Cabbage and Peas Over Rice 2 cups rice 6 cups water (divided) 5 medium potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced 1/2 head of green cabbage 1 box (10 ounces) frozen peas (or equivalent fresh) 2 teaspoons curry powder 1 teaspoon ground turmeric 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper Salt to taste (optional) Cook rice in 4 cups water in covered pot over medium-high heat until done.

In separate pan, add sliced potatoes to remaining 2 cups of water and heat over medium-high heat. Shred cabbage and add to potatoes. Add peas and spices. Cover pan. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are tender. Serve over rice. Makes 6 servings.

Garbanzo Bean Burgers

2 cups cooked garbanzo beans (chickpeas), mashed
1 rib celery, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
1/4 small onion, minced
1/4 cup whole-wheat flour
Salt and pepper to taste
2 teaspoons vegetable oil

Mix all ingredients (except oil) in bowl. Form 6 flat patties. Fry in oiled pan over medium-high heat until burgers are golden brown on each side. Serve alone with a mushroom or tomato sauce, or as a burger with lettuce and tomato. Makes 6 burgers.

© Copyright 1997, Milwaukee Journal Sentinel. All rights reserved.

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