The African Pygmy Hedgehog is a nocturnal insectivore with a life span of 4-6 years...is it the right pet for you?!
Before buying--
- One or a pair? Hedgies are solitary animals, so it's not unnatural or cruel to keep one. If you have no previous experience raising hedgehogs, than it's probably best to get only one. However, if you do decide on more than one they must be kept in separate cages as any cage will never be large enough to hold more than one.
- Male or female? Either one can make a wonderful pet if handled properly. Males generally self-anoint more (explained later), are usually easier to find and are cheaper because breeders tend to keep females for breeding.
- Different kinds or colors: A hedgie's back is covered with a thick coat of quills that are white with a blackish-brown band that gives them an impression of stippling. Their snouts are brownish, but their forehead, cheeks, underside and legs are white. There are color variations including blacks, whites, snowflakes, and creams.
- Tips on purchasing: The hedgie you buy should be around 6-8 weeks old. They've just been weaned at this time and should be easier to tame. Clear eyes, nose, ears, and rear are signs of a healthy animal, as are formed stools (not diarrhea), fur on belly that's is soft and not matted, and no bare spots. The hedgie should be plump but not fat, should have a stride that's between a walk and a shuffle, have normal breathing, and not be constantly rolled in a ball.
- Illegal?? Yes, hedgehogs are illegal in some places. Alabama, California, Georgia, Hawaii, and Utah are states where you cannot legally own a hedgie. In New Jersey you're required to pay for a $10 permit, and Wyoming also requires a permit. All provinces in Canada, except Quebec, allow hedgehogs. New York, NY and Windsor, Ontario Canada are municipalities that have banned hedgies.
Basic Needs--
- Cages: Hedgies are good climbers so if you use a cage with an open top make sure the sides are slippery and are at least 12 inches high so the hedgie won't escape. The cage should also have a floor space of at least 16 inches by 24 inches. A 20 gallon aquarium is ideal, however bigger is always welcome! A good cage has good circulation and is not in direct sunlight. Hedgies are comfortable in temperatures of 65-80 degrees Fahrenheit. There should be about 2 inches of bedding (aspen, pine, or white shaving...NO CEDAR...you can use corncob bedding, but don't use it with young males) covering the floor of the cage. The cage should also have a heavy earthenware dish for food that is no more than 3 inches high., a water bottle, a hiding place (PVC pipe, or an old shoe box works well), a litter box (note: some can learn to use the litter box others never will) that is 2 inches by 6 inches by 9 inches and filled with non-clumping cat litter, and toys (for example an enclosed hedgie wheel...not wire!).
- Food: A heavy earthenware dish should be purchased for dispensing food, as it cannot be tipped. A bottle should be used for dispensing water so that the water will not become contaminated. There are dry hedgie foods available in pet stores, but if you cannot find any dry cat food will also do. This dry food should be a staple with veggies, fruit, cooked meat, crickets, and mealworms fed as treats 3 or 4 times a week.
- Toys: PVC Pipes (4 inches in diameter), rawhide chews, an enclosed wheel for exercise, heavy paper (to shred), and a sandbox with play sand (silica has been washed out) all make nice toys for hedgies.
Training--
- Acclimation: Have everything in its place before you bring your hedgie home. Give your hedgie privacy for at least a day. You may pick it up once or twice a day for a few minutes, but realize that it probably will not feel at home for at least a week.
- Handling: First of all...NEVER wear gloves! Your pet needs to get to know your smell. While your pet is getting used to you it's best not to keep changing scents (such as switching perfumes) because smell is how your pet will recognize you. First let it sniff your hand. With your hands on each side of him, bring your hands together to lift him up. Becareful not to allow your fingers to be caught in the middle!! If the hedgie should decide to roll into a ball and your fingers are in the middle it could make for a very painful experience!! Gently hold your hedgie and let it explore you, eventually you may be able to pet it's back. Keep handling it to establish and maintain a bond. Do keep in mind that your hedgie might not ever be totally friendly.
- Dangers of being on the loose: Open doors, windows, and holes are dangerous, as are aggressive pets. Hedgie proof your house just as you would child proof your house if you were bringing home a baby.
- Other animals and children: I recommend supervising hedgies around small children. While I suppose they could get along well with some cats and dogs, I don't recommend leaving them unsupervised with any other pet.
Health--
- Illness: Hedgies are masters at hiding illness. They're susceptable to worms, fleas, mites and other common parasites. The most common ailment is mites which can be taken care of by taking them to the vet for a shot of Ivermectin. Chances are you'll have to take them twice or even three times to get rid of all of the mites. A mite infestation can be serious if not treated. When your hedgie has mites it looks like there's a white crusty coating on their quills. Obesity is also another thing you should be concerned about, but that can be controlled or prevented by diet and exercise. Severe medical problems don't frequently occur...these problems range from pneumonia, fatty liver disease, tumors, and cancer. There are no approved vaccinations for hedgehogs at this time. The only time this may be a problem is if you house your pet outdoors and live in an area where there's a rabies epidemic (in which case you may want to talk to your vet about an Imrab vaccination). While we're on the subject of rabies there is something that sometimes leads new or inexperienced owners of hedgies to believe that their pet has rabies and that's self anointing. Self anointing occurs when your hedgie smells something that is particularly interesting. It may start foaming at the mouth (this is where it's mistaken for rabies) and then lick this foam into it's quills. We don't really know why they do this, but suspect it has something to do with self defense because if you're pricked by one of the quills after this it stings a little.
- Cleaning: The litter box (if your pet uses one) needs to be cleaned out every day and the cage should be cleaned a couple times a week.
- Sex determination: The sex may be hard to determine when the hedgies are young because the area is so small. A male's penis is located where you would expect a navel. The vaginal orifice of the female is located very close to the anus.
- Breeding: Both male and female should be at least 5 months old before allowed to breed. Don't breed a female for the first time if she's over 1 1/2 years old as her pelvic bones may have fused and would not allow her to give birth. No more than three litters a year is recommended and as always allow your hedgie to recover from the birth before allowing her to be bred again. Actual breeding is easy as both male and female know what needs to be done. Most breeders prefer to put the female in the male's cage so that the male is not distracted by the new surrounding. Hiding places may need to be taken out as the female may play "hard to get". Females do have a heat cycle of about 9 days followed by 7 days off. Trial and error is your best guide to catching her cycle. Fights may occur while you have the male and female together, but generally they get along pretty well. After mating has taken place it's time to remove the female and put her back in her own cage. Keeping the male with the female is pretty much a guarantee for them both to eat their young. A lot of times you will not be able to recognize that your female is pregnant. One sign to watch for her teats to enlargen. Typically within a week of giving birth her urine will become stronger smelling and she may show nesting signs (piling more bedding together). She will likely lose her appetite in the day prior to giving birth. Gestation is approximately 35 days and there can be up to 8 babies! It's a good idea to clean the cage a few days before you suspect her to give birth (be sure not to disturb her too much). Sometimes the mother will eat her young if disturbed a few days before giving birth and can eat them up to 10 days after giving birth (if disturbed). Give her all the high quality food she desires as she will need the nutrients, plus give her more water. Keep an eye on the mother for any complications. Babies generally are weaned at 4-6 weeks old. The babies start eating solid food at 3 weeks, but continue to nurse from their mother. By 6 or 7 weeks of age they will most likely be eating nothing but solid food. Be sure to separate the sexes before 8 weeks of age unless of course you want more babies!
- Now in my own opinion I don't recommend breeding for the average pet owner. There are just too many animals out there looking for homes already.
For more information check out my pet resource page!
last updated 2001
A great big thanks goes out to Shirley Curtis for providing the picture of Puffin 'N Stuff!
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