Rabbits are clean, lively animals that make great pets in the hands of the right person. See if a pet rabbit is right for you!
Before Buying--
One or a pair? If you have little time get two does (females) from the same litter. Two bucks (males) can injure one another so it's best not to house them together. A doe and a buck can become very stressed if housed in different cages (unless the buck is neutered) and if housed in the same cage expect babies!
Male or female? Either can be wonderful pets if handled properly. However, you might want to get them neutered/spayed to prevent undesirable behavior such as the buck spraying [to mark territory].
Different kinds or colors: There are many different breeds and mixes that vary in size and color. Some popular breeds include: the angora, the dutch, the english spot, the flemish giant, the netherlands dwarf, the new zealand, and the rex.
Purchasing tips: Never buy a bunny younger than 8 weeks old. And never buy on impulse. If the rabbits or the accommodations do not look good then do not buy.
Basic Needs--
Cage: Size is very important. Dwarfs need a cage or hutch with a 19 in. width, a 29 in. depth, and a 19 in. height. Medium breeds need one with a 31 in. width, a 21 in. depth, and a 21 in. height. Large breeds need a cage with a 47 in. width, a 31 in. depth, and a 23 in. height. Keep in mind all of these are minimum measurements. If you plan on keeping your rabbit outside be sure the cage is facing the southeast. The right housing is raised off the ground (to avoid drafts), has enough room, and has a closed and open compartment. If you keep your rabbit indoors keep it out of drafts and direct sunlight, also keep them away from TVs and radio as they have sensitive ears and may become stressed.
Food: Supply the food in a heavy earthenware dish or hopper. Each rabbit should have a handful of dry food each day, green foods should be offered in small quantities and never to young rabbits. In addition to green food rabbits must have a permanent supply of pellets. And always supply the rabbit with fresh water, preferably dispensed in a bottle. Also keep branches (becareful not to use poisonous branches) and cardboard boxes for gnawing. Your rabbit will also like to hide in the box so be sure to cut a couple of holes in it.
Training--
Handling: A rabbit must be picked up with both hands. An easy way to hold a rabbit is to grab it by the scruff of the neck and to support its rump and hind legs with your other hand. You can also sit with the rabbit in your lap and let the rabbit hide it's face under your arm.
Litter training: It's almost natural for a rabbit to use a litter box. It helps in the beginning to keep a little of the soiled litter in the box because it encourages the rabbit to urinate and defecate there.
Dangers of being on the loose: Dangers include the rabbit chewing on things it shouldn't (electrical cords, wallpaper, etc.), being stepped on or caught in a door, or confrontation with your dog and/or cat.
Other pets and children: While your rabbit can get along with your cat or dog, I don't recommend leaving them unsupervised. Rabbits also get along well with guinea pigs, and it's not uncommon to see them housed together in pet stores. Rabbits can be wonderful pets for children, if the children are taught to treat the rabbit properly.
Health--
Illness: Your rabbit should always be alert and lively. Dull lifeless eyes are a sure sign of illness, and if the animal mopes in a corner with its fur puffed out or grinds its teeth, you can be sure you need to get it to the vet. At these times the rabbits droppings may not be normal and should be one of the first things you examine.
Breeding: Should you choose to breed take the doe to the buck. If a buck is brought to a strange hutch he'll be more interested in the new surroundings than the doe. After mating the doe should be taken to a prepared nursery hutch. You need to be very careful with feeding the doe during her pregnancy. If she is too fat there is a danger of failure to give birth. Failure can also occur if she is too thin. In the earlier part of the pregnancy there is no need for extra feed. The devloping young don't require anywhere near the nourishment they require after the birth. Supply plenty of greens and protein rich food. During the last eight days before the birth of the litter, the doe's daily rations should be slightly increased. Don't give too much fat-producing food in the last week, because there is a danger that the young will develop too strongly and cause difficulty in the birth. The young feed exclusively on the mother's milk to an age of 4 weeks. Thereafter the young feed themselves but continue to take the mother's milk. At the age of 10 weeks they should be eating as much solid food as the mother.
Cleaning: Hutches (or cages) must be cleaned as frequently as possible. It's recommended that the hutch be cleaned at least once a week. On other days it is adequate to clean the fouled corners. If your rabbit is litter trained clean the the box out at least every other day (if you want to keep the smell down, clean every day).
Toys: Cardboard or wooden boxes to hide in and gnaw on make great toys for rabbits. Branches are also great for your rabbits teeth. Some rabbits like to chase balls. I recommend getting hard plastic balls just in case your rabbit decides to chew on it.
Now in my own opinion I don't recommend breeding for the average pet owner. There are just too many animals out there looking for homes already.
For more information please check out my pet resource page!
last updated 2001
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