Rats and mice are good companion animals for people who don't have a lot of time to devote to their care, socialization, and training, but still enjoy the company of animals. Would a rat or mouse be a good pet for you?!
Before buying--
One or a pair? Same sexed siblings or mixed pairs get along very nicely. However, mature male rats may fight--which could cause injury, so be prepared to have other housing arrangements. If you have a mixed pair you'll need to prepare for babies.
Male or female? Either can make wonderful pets. I have heard that males seem to be calm, while females are a bit more inquisitive.
Different kinds or colors? Two types of coat patterns are solid and spotted. Solids are found in a variety of colors: dark brown, black, chocolate, gray, lavender (very light gray, almost blue), lilac, yellow, sand, silver, and albino. There are four types of spotted rats that are recognized. The most common is the hooded. Hooded rats have white bodies and dark heads and shoulders, with a stripe extending along the back. Notched is similar to hooded but the hood is smaller and there is no dorsal stripe. Irish rats are white except for spots on the chest and belly. The other variety of spotting is called restricted. It's very rare and unlikely to occur in domestic pets, since purebred animals die soon after birth. Restricted rats are white except for limited color around the eyes and ears, although some resemble the hooded rat. Color pointed (Himalayan) animals are known to occur but aren't common. There are also rex (curly-haired) and bald mice and rats!
Purchasing tips: Try to adopt one that is approximately a month old as they are easier to tame. The pelt should be free of bald spots, wounds and flaky skin. It shouldn't limp or hold a paw or leg abnormally while walking or sitting down. The eyes and nose should be free from discharge. The head should be held upright, not tipped to one side. Listen for sneezing and look for loose stools (they should be formed not puddled in a corner). Only purchse an animal that comes from a clean habitat. Setup can cost around $65...higher or lower depending on where you get the supplies.
Basic needs--
Cages: You can house your pet in either an aquarium or a wire cage, but both have advantages and disadvantages. Wire cages come in a variety of sizes, shapes, and numbers of levels it has. They're lightweight and easy to clean. They provide air circulation so the bedding stays drier and ammonia levels stay low. Cages are fairly escape-proof provided the wires are close together and the door is latched properly. Problems associated with wire cages are: corroded cages from the animals urine and you pet could develop foot calluses from climbing and standing on the wire (that can be solved by placing a piece of Plexiglas on the floor of the cage). Aquariums have smooth flooring so foot calluses aren't a problem. You can purchase a wire mesh top for the aquarium so that your pet doesn't escape. Although aquariums give you the best view of your pet they can be very cumbersome and hard to clean. The air circulation isn't very good so ammonia levels build up which can irritate your animals respiratory tract. In which ever cage you choose use pine bedding for nesting and waste absorption. **Don't use cedar bedding (it can irritate the respiratory tract)**
Food: Use a heavy earthenware bowl to dispense food as it can't be easily tipped and can't be chewed up. Use a bottle to dispense water as it can't be tipped or contaminated. Any commercial rodent diet is appropriate (whether it be grains, nuts, and seeds coated with a vitamin and mineral supplement or the same mixture ground into pellets or lab blocks). Supplement this diet with a variety of fresh foods. They'll eat just about anything so becareful not to feed a lot of foods high in fat.
Toys: You'll be the main toy for your rodent, but you should provide toys when you aren't available. Small blocks of wood, smooth tree branches, and cardboard boxes or tubes are great for chewing on. Outside of the cage you can build mazes to see how quickly your rat or mouse can negotiate the pattern. Most rats enjoy swimming. If your pet does you might want to get a tub where it can take an occasional dip. **Always supervise your rat during its swim**
Training--
Acclimation: You should have everything ready and in it's place when you bring your rat/mouse home. Place the habitat away from the center of activity (and out of drafts and direct sunlight)...later, when your pet is accustomed to its environment and to being handled, you can move it to a busier part of the house. Allow your pet to explore, rearrange, and mark its territory for the first few days...during which you can speak to it softly so that it will become familiar with your voice. After that you can begin putting your hand in the cage for your pet to sniff. Offer small bits of food and your animals will start to associate you with things that are good.
Handling: Eventually you'll be able to pick up your pet. To do so, slide your hand under its belly. However, it may not be content to sit in your palm so be prepared for it to explore you by climing up your arm to your shoulder or by climbing into your clothes. Mice are more likely to bite than are rats.
Dangers of being on the loose: Possible hazards include aggressive pets, falling from heights, open doors and windows (closing doors), electrical cords, recliners, being stepped on, among other things.
Other pets and children: While your pet may get along with your cat and/or dog it's best to never leave them unsupervised. With proper handling these rodents can be wonderful pets for children.
Health--
Illness: Watch for labored or noisy breathing, discharge from the eyes and/or nose, sneezing, diarrhea, no appetite, changes in the amount or frequency of drinking and usual color or quantity of urine. Injuries or infections may cause your pet to limp. A problem with the middle or inner ear may cause your pet to hold it's head to one side.
Cleaning: How frequently you clean the cage depends on how messy your pet is with it's food, the number of animals and the amount of waste produced. On average you should remove bedding and scrub the habitat once a week. In between cleanings remove the wet bedding and replace it with clean bedding.
Sex determination: Males that have reached puberty have a prominent scrotum. The distance between the anus and the genitalia is longer in the male than in the female.
Breeding: Rats develop sexually at 2 months old. Female rats go into heat every 4 or 5 days and is receptive to the male's advances for about 12-24 hours during the cycle. Rats carry their young in the womb for 21-23 days. You can leave the pregnant female in the same cage as the male until day 16 of gestation...then move her to her own cage. Males tend to cannibalize the babies and the mothers do not nurse as well if left in the same cage as the male. Litter size ranges from 6-12 pups. Don't disturb the mother and the babies. Only reach in to feed and water the mother. She will wean the babies at 21 days of age. Be sure to offer your pregnant/nursing rat/mouse plenty of food. They need 2-3 times more of the nutrients than they usually get.
- Now in my own opinion I don't recommend breeding for the average pet owner. There are just too many animals out there looking for homes already.
For more information check out my pet resource page!
last updated 2001
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