The whole concept of filtration is to clean the water of impurities. Any pet
will leave waste
which can be physically removed, but in the confines of
an aquarium where waste is
dissolved in water there has to be a different
procedure. In addition there may be waste or
other contaminants in the water
prior
to its use.
Let us now consider various forms of waste or undesirable elements,
this consideration
falls into two neat areas.
1) Elements already in the water.
2] Waste produced by urine and faeces and from the breakdown of uneaten foods
or
decomposing plant life.
REVERSE OSMOSIS
Here water is forced through micro filters and emerges about 98% pure or so the
makers say.
The disadvantage for me being that the unit needs must be plumbed
in and a high percentage
of the input must be discarded and as I am concious
of the environment this appliance
is not for me. Having said that they are
very effective is removing the majority of
contaminants.
ION EXCHANGE RESIN
A by-product of space research the concept of using resins to clean water now
forms the
greater part of the commercial filter market. Many models of this
type of filter can be
purchased but any reasonable DIY person can make their
own. The advantages are I
believe considerable, apart from cost not the least
of which is purchasing replacement resins.
Making your own can ensure that you
have the correct output of water for your set-up, the
design can be such that
it fits into whatever space you want and the resins can be
re-activated.
The
biggest advantage being that all water input is used therefor no waste.
I do have a DIY diagram available for those who wish it.
MECHANICAL FILRATION - For Suspended Matter
This should form the first section or part of the filter system and as the
water passes
through, solid particles of waste and uneaten food are passed
through media acting as a
barrier or filter. The finer the material the more
efficient the system. Commercial sponges,
floss and such can be bought but I
have used old net curtains, ladies tights [minus the
occupants] and similar.
Other materials are sand, gravel, diatomic earth etc. The main
consideration
being that the material used is inert and does not leach toxic substances,
is
clean and free from dust and is changed or cleaned frequently.
NEVER wash the material in fresh water as the beneficial bacteria colonising it
can be
destroyed. use spent water from the tank, as in routine water changing,
to clean filters.
This will remove many suspended particles but not those in solution.
CHEMICAL FILTRATION - For Elements in Solution
Suspended
particles
combine with each other to make aggregates which in turn
amalgamate to become
detritus
, which is the mulm
seen
in many tanks.
The main item in solution is protenious matter and for this we can use a
protein skimmer
, which concept originated in the sewage disposal industry. You can observe
the
action for yourself at any sewage outlet running into the ocean where you
will observe a
scum of soapy bubbles which hold in suspension many pollutants
that are protein in
composition. This then is the basis of our skimmer which
removes the scum. Regarded
by many marine life enthusiasts as essential
equipment.
The resins discussed earleir can also play a role here.
BACTERIAL FILTRATION - The Natural Method
This is described in many publications as the
Nitrogen Cycle
. and will not be gone
into detail here. Suffice to say that essentially two
groups of naturally occurring bacteria are
involved and are called
Hetrotrophic
meaning they take their sustenance from from
waste products such as proteins,
the second are
Autotrophic
, meaning they covert
chemicals into food.
These bacteria colonise filter media and break down many undesirable elements
into
elatively non-toxic substances.
Whatever filtration is used there is really no substitue for water changing. At
least 10% of
the tank water should be changed weekly, the result will end with
healthy stock and a tank
that is a pleasure to look at.