CONSTRUCTING AN ALL GLASS AQUARIUM

Aquaria come in many shapes and sizes but the principle of construction is basically the same. Glass is the most common material used therefore we set out here how to build an all glass aquarium.
The most important consideration is the surface area which is where the diffusion of gases takes place. Depth is also a factor as it may be difficult to reach the bottom of a three foot deep tank, unless you have very long arms of course. Another factor is weight. You must ensure that the potential site will carry the weight of the glass, water and decorative materials.
Glass will deteriorate over a period of time so only use new glass although old or scrap glass can be used for a lid/cover. Glass can be obtained in various weights or sizes and the following table illustrates the most common weight used in the corresponding tank size.
Table 1
Up to 36" x 15" x 12" 6mm glass
Up to 48" x 15" x 15" 6mm glass but with a 10mm base
Uo to 64" x 24" x 24" 10mm glass

The tank we are constructing measures 36" x 12" x 12".
Materials Required
Silicone cement [must be formulated for aquarium use]
Masking tape
Scalpel or sharp blade
Right angle set square and ruler
Several heavy weights [I use bricks]
Glass cut to the following sizes
Base plate = 900mm x 300mm 1 piece
Side plates= 900mm x 306mm 2 pieces
End plates= 321mm x 306mm 2 pieces
L Shaped plastic lengths [to carry the cover or lid] 10mm right angle being suitable. Two pieces needed about 290mm long. Prior to commencemnt do ensure that the materials are secure from small fingers and a clean, flat surface to work on is available.
Points to remember
Silicone gives off fumes so vetilation is important.
Always carry the assembled tank by the base.
Always empty the tank before moving it.
In addition we shall require a lid or some form of cover to prevent livestock from escaping.

STEP ONE
Lay the glass on your flat work surface and fasten lengths of tape as indicated in the diagram below about 7 to 10mm from topmost edge.

STEP TWO
Glue the L shaped plastic channels to the topmost inside edge of the side plates, leaving about a 10mm gap from the top to allow for a lid. Note that the length as indicated in the materials list allows a small gap at the corners for feeding thermostat cable and air pipe into the aquarium. It also faciliates cleaning e.g. no corners to worry about.
STEP THREE
Place a thin, and I do mean thin bead of silicone along the edge of the base plate and butt the side against this. This ensures there is no friction between the plates.
Now push firmly both plates together and clamp, I use bricks/heavy building blocks wrapped in plastic. Now place a second but thicker bead of silicone along the inside of the butted edges, overlapping the masking tape slightly. This will be trimmed off later prior to the tape being removed and hey presto! a nice clean, straight edge.
STEP FOUR
Repeat the process with the second side plate and again clamp firmly. The next illustration makes this clear.
STEP FIVE
Repeat the process with the end plates bearing in mind that the'thin bead' will be needed on three edges.
STEP SIX
Check the angles are correct and the whole appliance is truly square, everything clamped togther firmly and now the for hardest part. LEAVE it alone for at least 48 hours for the silicone to cure.
STEP SEVEN
Trim off the surplus silicone, that is where it overlaps the masking tape which will of course also be removed.
STEP EIGHT
Fill the tank slowly with water, check all the time for possible leaks, there should be none but that probably falls into the realm of famous last words.
My own 'thing' at this time is to place a strip of electricians tape [white] from top to bottom, and as each gallon is poured in I mark it off on the tape so that I have a clear and permanent indication of water capcity.

Once you are satisfied that all is well the tank, after emptying can be located into its permanent position.

USEFUL BITS & PIECES
CAPCITY
If you ommited the 'tape measure' hint previously then capacity can be calculated so-
Length X Width X Depth in inches.
Divide the result by 1728 gives the capacity in cubic feet.
Multply this by 6.23 gives the capacity in Imperial Gallons.
To convert gallons to litres multiply by 4.55
SURFACE AREA
Length X Width.
For tropical fish allow 1" of fish per 10 square inches
Marine fish allow 1" per 4 gallons of water
[When measuring fish it is customary to ignore the caudal fin]
WATER WEIGHT
One Imperial gallon = 10lbs.
One U S gallon = 18 ounces.
WEIGHT GLASS
Allow circa 5lbs per foot of 6mm glass.
WEIGHT GRAVEL
Borrow the kitchen scales
WEIGHT FISH
It is customary to ignore this.

If you wish further discussion then please E-Mail me.

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