Australian Walkabout

Cairns and Environs (03-09 Sep 2000)
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Last modified September 12th 2000


Sun 03-Sep : Townsville to Cairns
Townsville by day reveals itself as a large and busy city of the Tropics. However, we do not have time to dally, so we restrict our sightseeing to a brief stroll through the Sunday morning markets. The most bizarre artefacts on display here are paperweights made from stuffed cane toads (a poisonous pest in these parts) in a variety of poses. Following a brief survey of the city from the imposing Castle Hill lookout, we hit the highway north towards Cairns. For once it is pleasant to arrive somewhere before dark without the hazards of nocturnal Kamikaze kangaroos.

Mon 04-Sep : Cable car and Scenic Train to Kuranda, Reef Teach
Cairns (pronounced 'Kanes' by locals) major attractions are tropical rainforests and the Great Barrier Reef. Today we go to see the rainforest in the somewhat tacky and commercialised town of Kuranda. We get there by a 7.5km cable car ride over the rainforest canopy. The rainforest is remarkably lush when seen from any angle and the faint hum of the cable car cannot drown out the cacophony of birds and animals below.

'Skyrail' cable car above the rainforest.

Kuranda itself offers a huge range of options for separating you from you dollar. We go to the very interesting "Noctarium" where night and day have been reversed using electric lights to allow us to see the forest creatures of the nights. It is quite funny to hear the noisy feeding squabbles of the large flying foxes (fruity bats) who put their differences aside to see of the challenges of the cheeky gliders (like squirrels that fly).

One bizarre and controversial attraction in Kuranda is the sight of a large make believe ship (we are 900 metres up and many kilometres away from the sea) on the street. even more bizarre is that this is a "shooting gallery" where you can fire real handguns up to and including 0.44 magnums. This is somewhat sad in a country with strict gun control laws, but many visitors are happy to display their decimated targets as a testament to their ballistic entertainment.

We return to Cairns on the scenic train whose construction represented a triumph of engineering as it snakes along the steep sides of the Barron Gorge through numerous tunnels and over dramatic high bridges. The Barron Falls look dramatic but are only a pale reflection of their former selves, having been tamed for hydroelectric power and this being the end of the dry season. Up until 1990 they used be "switched on" twice a day when the train passed by¸ but this had to be stopped after an adventurous tourist climbing the falls was swept away by the suddenly rising waters !

The Barron Falls in tame dry season mode.

Kuranda scenic railway; a triumph of man over nature.

Back in the city, Alan and I go to a fascinating lecture called "Reef Teach" which many people consider obligatory before visiting the Great Barrier Reef, which we intend to do tomorrow. It is delivered by a hyperactively enthusiastic woman, and we leave feeling very knowledgeable about coral reefs and environmental threats, even if I cannot remember the names of the fish.

Tue 05-Sep : Snorkelling on Great Barrier Reef
We make an early start to catch the large "Reef Magic" catamaran out the outer reef. As I snorkel overhead, the corals look enchantingly beautiful in all the colours of the rainbow. The shapes vary from the immense solidity of boulder corals to the daintiest wisps of colourful soft corals floating on the ocean current. The fishlife is also amazing with bright blue parrot fish munching on the coral, whole clouds of black and white striped "Sergeant Majors" swimming right past my face and numerous others looking like an artists palette.

We also get to see the corals in a small glass bottomed boat, which gives a slightly easier viewing experience. Through our watery windows we can see the black slug-like bodies of Sea Cucumber on the floor below. At one stage the boat captain asks one elderly lady if she would like to feel the slimy sea cucumber and stuns us all by cutting the engine and jumping overboard, without the benefit of mask or snorkel, resurfacing some 15 seconds later clutching his slimy prize. After being passed around the boat the placid animal is returned to the deep to graze once more on the sandy floor.

Before leaving the reef, the Reef Magic crew make some very thorough counts and checks of the passengers on board. This even extends to comparing one's afternoon signature to that which we signed on boarding the boat this morning; with some passengers being asked to sign repeatedly until the crew were satisfied with the match of signatures. This obsession with head counting, results from an unfortunate incident in 1999 where on reef boat returned to Cairns with two less passengers than it departed and the unfortunate American's who went missing have never been seen since !

This is Alan's last full day in Australia, and our day on the reef was indeed a fitting finale to his trip.

Wed 06-Sep : On my own again
I get up at 4 am to drive Alan to Cairns airport for his departure back to Ireland. It is tough saying goodbye after a month of travelling with him, but I should soon adjust to being on my own again. I get back to the hostel at 6 am in hope of getting some sleep, but am rudely awoken by a hammer drill outside my window at 6.30 am. The hostel is installing a fire alarm, but they could have shown less early morning enthusiasm about it. I spend the rest of the day lazing about and doing domestic chores, which have been put on the long finger for a few weeks now.

Thu 07-Sep : Lazing About, Mangrove Swamp
This is another lazy day as I wind down after the high excitement of the past few weeks and try to decide on my next move. In the afternoon I go to visit a Mangrove Swamp near the airport where the shrimp and crabs make a symphony of clicking, splashing and squawking as the tide come in around their muddy homes.

Mangrove roots struggle to keep trees upright in Cairns mud.

Fri 08-Sep : Barron Gorge Power Station

Fancy some whitewater rafting ? The Barron river switched OFF.

Sat 09-Sep : Atherton Tablelands, Tinaroo Dam, swimming in Lake Eacham

Man's best friend in his vehicle of choice; the back of a ute.

Fine grazing! Indian brahmin bullock in Atherton Tablelands.

The bizarre 'Curtain Fig' which has long since killed its host tree.


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