Over the past few years route development has increased in the Valdez area. Valdez will never be a rock climbing destination. But if you are swinging through town bring your gear. The best time of year is the spring the brush has died down and the bugs are few. Late May and early June seem best. During early June it is possible to whitewater kayak, ski and climb all in the same day. There is some loose rock around and the Chugach Range is known for its poor rock quality. That being said active scouting has revealed some very nice rock. But be forewarned this is not your typical sport climbing area and good mountain skills are a must and a helmet is a good idea. Please educate yourself before climbing here. Most routes have bolt anchors with chains or rap hangers. If rap hangers or chains are present please do not leave slings behind. All references to the first ascent parties have been purposely ommitted. This was due to the fact that the history of some routes are unknown and shroud in mystery. In order to simplify the guide and amount of work they have been dropped. The intent of this guide is to increase traffic on routes and spread climbing information. Many of the routes will improve with more traffic. Please respect the area and stay on "established" trails or paths. Some of the trails are marked with surveyor's tape, the others are pretty obvious. This guide can not make up for sound judgement and smart climbing. So as always, climb at your own risk. Many routes get only a few ascents a year and most are fairly new so there might be loose holds, moss, lichen or any of the other associated nasties. The grades found within the guide are purely subjective, as many routes have not had enough ascents to form a consensus. Any input that a climber has after climbing a route would be helpful. Please e-mail any suggestion you have. |
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Valdez Rock Climbing Guide |