23. North Cascades National Park (Picket Range)
Newhalem, Washington

Climbing Type Grades Height Rock Type Quantity of Rock Cliff Aspect
Alpine;Mixture Mixed Granite/Gneiss Lifetime Mixed

Development Number of Routes Season Ownership Camping Quality
Partial Summer National Park Service/US Forest Service Free ****

Directions:

The Picket Range is located in North Cascades National Park wilderness area N of Newhalem, W of Ross Lake, and ~13 mi E of Mt. Shuksan. Prominent formations include: Mt. Challenger, East Peak, West Peak, Inspiration Peak, Chopping Block, Twin Needles, Himmelhorn, Luna Peak, Bear Mtn, and Twin Spires. Expect long (up to two days) approach hikes.

Notes:

An isolated NW/SE range of serrated rock peaks up to 8200' in elevation that have gained their appellation from their resemblance to a picket fence. Mt. Challenger is the obvious peak of the Northern Pickets

Classics:

Himmelhorn, Mt. Terror- N Face III 8, Inspiration Pk- S Face III 8, Luna Pk, Mt. Redoubt- NE Face, Bear Mtn- N Buttress W IV (17 pitches) 9

References:

Appalachia 6/'52, AAJ '[75, 69, 62, 59], C [141, 10/72], Mntnr '71, 63, 62, 58, Su [4/71, 7/63, 1/61, 6/60]; Guidebook(s): Nelson/Potterfield's Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide