Introduction


Belize is a small country and you can cover several interesting sites in a short stay. The Mexican field guide, 'A Guide to the Birds of Mexico and Nothern Central America' by Steve N.G.Howell and Sophie Webb and the National Geographic 'Field Guide to the Birds of North America' Third Edition cover all the birds well. There is information for several sites in Belize in 'Where to watch birds in Central America & the Caribbean' by Nigel Wheatley and David Brewer. The Belize Audobon Society manage several protected areas.
Belize is even more expensive than Mexico and scrimping and saving I still only managed to keep my budget to US$35 per day. The currency is Belize Dollars (B$) which are 2 to US$1. A company called Novelo's has the virtual monopoly on buses and have regular buses connecting major towns.

Sites visited


1. Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary, Orange Walk 5-7th December, 2004
2. Punta Gorda, Toledo 7-10th December
3. Blue Creek, Toledo 8th & 10-11th December
4. Bladen Nature Reserve (outside) 9th December
5. Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary 11-14th December


1. Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary, Orange Walk      5-7th December, 2004

   Entering Belize by land from Chetumal, Mexico in the north, first take a bus to Orange Walk. Express buses to Belize City pass the junction for Crooked Tree but will not stop, so check with the driver first. From Orange Walk you can take another bus towards Belize City which will drop you at the junction. In Crooked Tree I stayed at Sam Tillet's Hotel and they picked me up from the junction. It's about 3km so you could walk it. There are another couple of places in this small town but I didn't check prices. Sam Tilett's place is comfortable and I paid about US$30 for a private cabin. They cook great meals, although they're a bit expensive at about $8. There is a bar nearby that serve drinks and burger. There is a direct bus from Crooked Tree to Belize City leaving in the early morning and returning in the afternoon. Ask locally for times.
The area has fantastic birding and I saw close to 100 species in a day. The area is managed as a wildlife sanctuary by the Belize Audobon Society and there is a visitors centre just after the lagoon on the right as you enter Crooked Tree. There is a map there showing the network of trails all named after birds. The Limpkin Trail runs alongside the lake and (funnily enough) is a good place to see Limpkin. Further round the lake in this direction is an open area with some boats tied up. Here I saw a Southern Lapwing. A bird not found on the Belize list. One of the trails goes a long way off and about 5km from town I found a board walk and tower which had been built by Operation Raleigh. This was a fantastic area for birding with Yucatan Jay and possibly White-fronted Parrots. This area can also be reached by boat and Sam Tillet brings people here.
97 species including 12 lifers.

Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps
Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus Recorded
Great Blue Heron Ardea herodias
Great Egret Ardea alba Photographed
Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea Photographed
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Photographed
Green Heron Butorides virescens Photographed
Bare-throated Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma mexicanum Photographed Recorded
Wood Stork Mycteria americana
White Ibis Eudocimus albus Photographed
Black-bellied Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna autumnalis
Blue-winged Teal Anas discors
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Photographed
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus Possibly seen
Osprey Pandion haliaetus
Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis Photographed
Black-collared Hawk Busarellus nigricollis
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Photographed
Short-tailed Hawk Buteo brachyurus Possibly seen
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Limpkin Aramus guarauna Photographed
Yellow-breasted Crake Porzana flaviventer Possibly seen
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
American Coot Fulica americana
Northern Jacana Jacana spinosa Photographed
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis Photographed Recorded
Wilson's Snipe Gallinago delicata
Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria Photographed
Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularia
Least Sandpiper Calidris minutilla Photographed
Red-billed Pigeon Patagioenas flavirostris
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Olive-throated Parakeet Aratinga nana
White-fronted Parrot Amazona albifrons Possibly seen
Red-lored Parrot Amazona autumnalis Recorded
Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris Photographed
Lesser Nighthawk Chordeiles acutipennis Photographed
Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis Heard only
Canivet's Emerald Chlorostilbon canivetii
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl Photographed
Buff-bellied Hummingbird Amazilia yucatanensis Photographed
Belted Kingfisher Ceryle alcyon
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquata
Acorn Woodpecker Melanerpes formicivorus Photographed Recorded
Yucatan Woodpecker Melanerpes pygmaeus
Golden-fronted Woodpecker Melanerpes aurifrons
Rufous-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis erythrothorax Photographed
Tawny-winged Woodcreeper Dendrocincla anabatina
Streak-headed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes souleyetii
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster Photographed
Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus Photographed
Yucatan Flycatcher Myiarchus yucatanensis
Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus Photographed
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis Photographed
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Photographed
Couch's Kingbird Tyrannus couchii
Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana
Rose-throated Becard Pachyramphus aglaiae
Mangrove Swallow Tachycineta albilinea Photographed
Northern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx serripennis
Spot-breasted Wren Thryothorus maculipectus Recorded
White-bellied Wren Uropsila leucogastra
Tropical Mockingbird Mimus gilvus Recorded
Clay-colored Robin Turdus grayi
Blue-gray Gnatcatcher Polioptila caerulea
Brown Jay Cyanocorax morio Photographed Recorded
Yucatan Jay Cyanocorax yucatanicus Photographed Recorded
White-eyed Vireo Vireo griseus
Yellow-throated Vireo Vireo flavifrons
Northern Parula Parula americana
Yellow Warbler Dendroica petechia
Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia
American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla Photographed
Northern Waterthrush Seiurus noveboracensis
Mourning Warbler Oporornis philadelphia
Common Yellowthroat Geothlypis trichas
Hooded Warbler Wilsonia citrina
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager Habia rubica
Summer Tanager Piranga rubra
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus
White-collared Seedeater Sporophila torqueola Photographed
Olive Sparrow Arremonops rufivirgatus
Grayish Saltator Saltator coerulescens
Indigo Bunting Passerina cyanea
Melodious Blackbird Dives dives Photographed
Great-tailed Grackle Quiscalus mexicanus
Hooded Oriole Icterus cucullatus
Baltimore Oriole Icterus galbula Photographed
Orchard Oriole Icterus spurius Photographed
Black-cowled Oriole Icterus prosthemelas Photographed
Lesser Goldfinch Carduelis psaltria

2. Punta Gorda, Toledo      7-10th December, 2004

   Some direct buses leave Belize City for Punta Gorda (PG) but other times you have to change at Dangriga. PG can also be reached by boat from Puerto Barrios in Guatemala. PG is a very laid back town and I stayed at the Nature's Way Guest House which has basic rooms at reasonable prices. There are a few places to eat in town. Some places are just peoples houses that sell food but there is a nice ice cream parlour in town that also has snacks. PG is on the coast and you can see a few coastal birds by walking along the front. Walking around the outside of town I saw a few common birds. The road north crosses a small river along which there are some mangroves. It seems you can rent canoes here which might be worth doing. The next site is more interesting.
34 species including 1 lifer.

Brown Pelican Pelecanus occidentalis
Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens
Great Blue Heron Ardea herodias
Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus
Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans
Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularia
Laughing Gull Larus atricilla
Royal Tern Sterna maxima
Common Tern Sterna hirundo Possibly seen
Rock Dove Columba livia Introduced species
Red-billed Pigeon Patagioenas flavirostris
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl
Belted Kingfisher Ceryle alcyon
Golden-fronted Woodpecker Melanerpes aurifrons Photographed
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis Photographed
Northern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx serripennis
Gray Catbird Dumetella carolinensis
Brown Jay Cyanocorax morio
White-eyed Vireo Vireo griseus
Magnolia Warbler Dendroica magnolia
Yellow-throated Warbler Dendroica dominica
American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla
Summer Tanager Piranga rubra
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Yellow-winged Tanager Thraupis abbas
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
White-collared Seedeater Sporophila torqueola
Melodious Blackbird Dives dives
Great-tailed Grackle Quiscalus mexicanus

3. Blue Creek, Toledo       8th & 10-11th December, 2004

   This is a nice area of forest quite close to Punta Gorda and you can either visit on a day trip or better, stay over night. From PG take any bus heading north and get off at the junction for Blue Creek. This is about 20km along the road and is known locally as 'Dump'. Blue Creek is another 19km away and there is no bus. I caught the 6am bus from PG and where I got off, there were some locals waiting for a vehicle that took them to Blue Creek. The vehicle takes Menonite children to school and they agreed to give me a ride in the back. The people getting a ride pay a very small fare to the driver. From where you are dropped, walk further along until you get to the creek where there is a sign reading 'Rainfroest Lodge' The path runs alongside the river and after a few hundred metres you reach some wooden cabins. There was a caretaker there to whom I paid the small entrance fee and he explained where the trails started. I arranged to stay the next night which cost just $25 Belize dollars. His English was a bit difficult to understand but he explained that other people were coming the following day and the price would rise to $90 so I just stayed for 1 night. No food was available at the lodge but there was a shop back along the road towards PG and the lady there can prepare simple meals very reasonably. Birding around the cabins and along the few trails is excellent. The vulnerable Keel-billed Motmot has been seen in the area although I didn't find it.
63 species including 7 lifers.

Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Short-billed Pigeon Patagioenas nigrirostris Photographed
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Olive-throated Parakeet Aratinga nana
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris
(Little Hermit) Phaethornis longuemareus Photographed
Western Long-tailed Hermit Phaethornis longirostris
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl Photographed
Azure-crowned Hummingbird Agyrtria cyanocephala
Violaceous Trogon Trogon violaceus
Collared Trogon Trogon collaris
Belted Kingfisher Ceryle alcyon
White-whiskered Puffbird Malacoptila panamensis Photographed
Golden-fronted Woodpecker Melanerpes aurifrons
Smoky-brown Woodpecker Veniliornis fumigatus
Pale-billed Woodpecker Campephilus guatemalensis Photographed
Ruddy Foliage-gleaner Automolus
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper Glyphorynchus spirurus Photographed
Ochre-bellied Flycatcher Mionectes oleagineus
Bright-rumped Attila Attila spadiceus
Rufous Mourner Rhytipterna holerythra
Brown-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus tyrannulus
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Rose-throated Becard Pachyramphus aglaiae
Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata
Black-crowned Tityra Tityra inquisitor
Mangrove Swallow Tachycineta albilinea
Spot-breasted Wren Thryothorus maculipectus
White-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucosticta
Gray Catbird Dumetella carolinensis
Wood Thrush Hylocichla mustelina Photographed Recorded
Clay-colored Robin Turdus grayi Recorded?
Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea
Brown Jay Cyanocorax morio Recorded?
White-eyed Vireo Vireo griseus
Yellow-throated Vireo Vireo flavifrons
Yellow Warbler Dendroica petechia
Magnolia Warbler Dendroica magnolia
Black-throated Green Warbler Dendroica virens
American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla
Worm-eating Warbler Helmitheros vermivorus
Ovenbird Seiurus aurocapilla
Louisiana Waterthrush Seiurus motacilla
Kentucky Warbler Oporornis formosus
Hooded Warbler Wilsonia citrina Recorded?
Summer Tanager Piranga rubra
Yellow-throated Euphonia Euphonia hirundinacea Photographed Recorded
Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza Photographed Recorded
Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus Photographed
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
White-collared Seedeater Sporophila torqueola
Orange-billed Sparrow Arremon aurantiirostris Recorded
Black-headed Saltator Saltator atriceps
Black-faced Grosbeak Caryothraustes poliogaster
Blue-black Grosbeak Cyanocompsa cyanoides
Melodious Blackbird Dives dives
Great-tailed Grackle Quiscalus mexicanus
Baltimore Oriole Icterus galbula Photographed
Yellow-billed Cacique Amblycercus holosericeus

4. Bladen Nature Reserve (outside)      9th December, 2004

   The turn-off for the Bladen Nature Reserve is about an hour and a half north of Punta Gorda and buses leave PG as early as 5am. From the clearly signed turn-off to the reserve is quite far (at least 7-8km) and at the time I visited, the track was flooded in many places and probably only passable with a decent 4-wheel drive. The reserve can only be visited with prior permission and I turned back at the no entry sign after about 5km, well before the start of the forest. The habitat up to this point was savanna with scattered trees and had OK birding. The other alternative to birding in the reserve is to visit the adjacent BFREE Protected Area. The entrance is the same as for the reserve. I met people from BFREE on the way in and they said I could stay inside for US$40 a night. I decided against it but it would probably be worth it as the birding is supposed to be excellent. I recommend contacting the Bladen Reserve or BFREE before attempting to visit.
29 species including 0 lifers.

Great Egret Ardea alba
Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea Photographed
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Red-billed Pigeon Patagioenas flavirostris
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Olive-throated Parakeet Aratinga nana
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl
Azure-crowned Hummingbird Agyrtria cyanocephala
Golden-fronted Woodpecker Melanerpes aurifrons
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Photographed
Couch's Kingbird Tyrannus couchii
Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana Photographed
Northern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx serripennis
Spot-breasted Wren Thryothorus maculipectus Recorded
Black Catbird Melanoptila glabrirostris Near-threatened
Blue-gray Gnatcatcher Polioptila caerulea
Brown Jay Cyanocorax morio Photographed
White-eyed Vireo Vireo griseus
Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia
American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla
Common Yellowthroat Geothlypis trichas
Gray-crowned Yellowthroat Geothlypis poliocephala Photographed
White-collared Seedeater Sporophila torqueola
Rusty Sparrow Aimophila rufescens Photographed
Great-tailed Grackle Quiscalus mexicanus
Baltimore Oriole Icterus galbula

5. Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary       11-14th December, 2004

   The entrance to the park is at the small village of Maya Centre south of Dangriga. There is a Mayan Women's Cooperative handicraft shop at the turn-off and they can sell you the entrance ticket which was B$10. They also have a list of accomodation prices in the park and can contact a taxi driver to take you in. There isn't much food available in the park although there is a good kitchen so you should take enough food in with you for the duration of your stay. It is 8km along the gravel road into the park and cost B$30 one-way in the taxi. It would be possible to walk it or hitch with park vehicles if you are lucky. The taxi driver that took me was also a guide and could be hired to take you round the park, although this is not really necessary. In the park, there are several different options for accomodation. It is possible to camp, but I opted for the rustic accomodation which was very reasonable at just B$16 a night. There was no electricity but there were oil lamps which gave some light in the evening. There is a good network of trails and it is definately worth spending a few days here. I was still seeing many new birds in my 3rd day in the park. The park supposedly has one of the highest concentrations of jaguars in the world and it is very easy to see tracks although for the real thing you need a lot of luck. One of the best spots in apparently the access road which the jaguars walk along at night. There is a house at a camp site half way along where you can get a good view along the road. I didn't see any though. I found Great Curassow on the Antelope trail. I also searched for the Keel-billed Motmot on the outlier trail which goes up a steep hill. This is supposedly an overnight trail which you must use guides to visit but I managed it in a day trip but failed to see the motmot.
110 species including 22 lifers.

Great Tinamou Tinamus major Recorded
Slaty-breasted Tinamou Crypturellus boucardi Photographed
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Plain Chachalaca Ortalis vetula Recorded
Crested Guan Penelope purpurascens Photographed Recorded
Great Curassow Crax rubra Near-threatened
Ruddy Crake Laterallus ruber Heard only
Short-billed Pigeon Patagioenas nigrirostris Recorded
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
Gray-headed Dove Leptotila plumbeiceps
Gray-chested Dove Leptotila cassini
Olive-throated Parakeet Aratinga nana
Vaux's Swift Chaetura vauxi
Band-tailed Barbthroat Threnetes ruckeri
(Little Hermit) Phaethornis longuemareus Recorded
Western Long-tailed Hermit Phaethornis longirostris
Violet Sabrewing Campylopterus hemileucurus
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl Recorded
White-bellied Emerald Agyrtria candida
Black-headed Trogon Trogon melanocephalus Photographed
Blue-crowned Motmot Momotus momota Photographed
Collared Aracari Pteroglossus torquatus Recorded
Golden-fronted Woodpecker Melanerpes aurifrons
Smoky-brown Woodpecker Veniliornis fumigatus Photographed
Pale-billed Woodpecker Campephilus guatemalensis Recorded
Plain Xenops Xenops minutus
Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner Automolus ochrolaemus Recorded
Tawny-winged Woodcreeper Dendrocincla anabatina Photographed
Ruddy Woodcreeper Dendrocincla homochroa Photographed
Ivory-billed Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus flavigaster
Streak-headed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes souleyetii Recorded
Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus
Dot-winged Antwren Microrhopias quixensis Photographed
Dusky Antbird Cercomacra tyrannina Recorded
Black-faced (Mexican) Antthrush Formicarius analis (monoliger) Recorded
White-collared Manakin Manacus candei Photographed
Red-capped Manakin Pipra mentalis Photographed
Greenish Elaenia Myiopagis viridicata
Ochre-bellied Flycatcher Mionectes oleagineus
Northern Bentbill Oncostoma cinereigulare
Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum
Stub-tailed Spadebill Platyrinchus cancrominus Recorded
Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher Myiobius sulphureipygius Photographed
Tropical Pewee Contopus cinereus Recorded
Yellow-bellied Flycatcher Empidonax flaviventris
Acadian Flycatcher Empidonax virescens Possibly seen
Least Flycatcher Empidonax minimus
Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus Photographed
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Recorded
Couch's Kingbird Tyrannus couchii
Thrush-like Schiffornis Schiffornis turdinus Photographed Recorded
Rose-throated Becard Pachyramphus aglaiae
Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata
Northern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx serripennis
Spot-breasted Wren Thryothorus maculipectus
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
White-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucosticta Photographed
Gray Catbird Dumetella carolinensis Recorded
Wood Thrush Hylocichla mustelina
Clay-colored Robin Turdus grayi
Long-billed Gnatwren Ramphocaenus melanurus
Brown Jay Cyanocorax morio Photographed
White-eyed Vireo Vireo griseus
Yellow-throated Vireo Vireo flavifrons
Tawny-crowned Greenlet Hylophilus ochraceiceps
Lesser Greenlet Hylophilus decurtatus
Magnolia Warbler Dendroica magnolia
Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia
American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla
Worm-eating Warbler Helmitheros vermivorus
Ovenbird Seiurus aurocapilla Recorded
Louisiana Waterthrush Seiurus motacilla
Kentucky Warbler Oporornis formosus Recorded
Common Yellowthroat Geothlypis trichas
Hooded Warbler Wilsonia citrina Photographed
Rufous-capped Warbler Basileuterus rufifrons
Gray-headed Tanager Eucometis penicillata
Black-throated Shrike-Tanager Lanio aurantius Recorded
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager Habia rubica Recorded
Red-throated Ant-Tanager Habia fuscicauda Photographed Recorded
Summer Tanager Piranga rubra Recorded
Crimson-collared Tanager Ramphocelus sanguinolentus
Passerini's Tanager Ramphocelus passerinii Recorded
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Olive-backed Euphonia Euphonia gouldi
Golden-hooded Tanager Tangara larvata
Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza
Shining Honeycreeper Cyanerpes lucidus Recorded
Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Variable Seedeater Sporophila corvina Photographed
White-collared Seedeater Sporophila torqueola
Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivacea Rare/Accidental
Orange-billed Sparrow Arremon aurantiirostris Photographed Recorded
Grayish Saltator Saltator coerulescens
Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus
Black-headed Saltator Saltator atriceps
Black-faced Grosbeak Caryothraustes poliogaster Recorded
Blue-black Grosbeak Cyanocompsa cyanoides Recorded
Indigo Bunting Passerina cyanea
Melodious Blackbird Dives dives
Yellow-tailed Oriole Icterus mesomelas Photographed
Baltimore Oriole Icterus galbula
Yellow-billed Cacique Amblycercus holosericeus
Montezuma Oropendola Gymnostinops montezuma