Sites visited


1. Ognorhynchus Reserve, Jardin, Antioquia       12th-13th August, 2006

   Jardin is easily reached by bus from Medellin in 3 and a half hours, costing 14,000 pesos. ‘Transporte Suroeste Antioquenia’ buses leave the terminal at 3:45pm and 5pm and probably some in the morning too. Jardin is a beautiful town where you can stay and visit the reserve and nearby areas during the day. I stayed at ‘La Casona’ just half a block from the plaza with nice rooms for about $7 per night. There are some nice restaurants around the plaza and several places to do internet. Proaves is planning to build some accommodation higher up within the reserve.
   There are several areas around town and the best thing to do is contact PROAVES and coordinate you visit with them. Jose Castano josefc@proaves.org is in charge of the project and knows the birds well. His mothers ‘vivero’ (nursery) is excellent for birds. There are several hummingbirds at the flowers and feeder in the garden and Red-headed Barbet and many tanager species feed on bananas on the bird table.
   One morning we waited at the top of the reserve where there is an antennae for the Yellow-eared Parrots to fly over but without success. The next day we waited at the other side of the valley and had them fly in to feed nearby. The birds are seemingly fearless and we got to within 6m of them at eye level. The antenna sight has excellent birding with many hummingbirds (even Dusky Starfrontlet has been seen) and mixed tanager flocks. A good thing to do is get to the top and walk some of the way back down. There is a bus that goes up there at 7:30 in the morning but it would be better to go with a member of Proaves.
   Red-bellied Grackle can be seen up from a cattle farm, just 20 minutes walk from the centre. Ask Jose for directions. The family’s 11 year old son, Jon Sebastian, can take you up to see the birds.
I saw 85 species including 12 lifers

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
White-tailed Hawk Buteo albicaudatus
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Heard only
Yellow-eared Parrot Ognorhynchus icterotis Critically endangered
Scarlet-fronted Parakeet Aratinga wagleri
Barred Parakeet Bolborhynchus lineola
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
Band-rumped Swift Chaetura spinicaudus Possibly seen
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl
Steely-vented Hummingbird Saucerottia saucerrottei
Collared Inca Coeligena torquata
Tourmaline Sunangel Heliangelus exortis
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina
Highland Motmot Momotus aequatorialis
Red-headed Barbet Eubucco bourcierii
Andean Toucanet Aulacorhynchus albivitta
Grayish Piculet Picumnus granadensis Endemic
Acorn Woodpecker Melanerpes formicivorus
Golden-olive Woodpecker Piculus rubiginosus
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae Heard only
Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger
Streaked Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii
Streak-headed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes souleyetii
Spillman's Tapaculo Scytalopus spillmanni Heard only
Green-and-black Fruiteater Pipreola riefferii
Sooty-headed Tyrannulet Phyllomyias griseiceps
Black-capped Tyrannulet Phyllomyias nigrocapillus
Golden-faced Tyrannulet Zimmerius chrysops
White-tailed Tyrannulet Mecocerculus poecilocercus
Cliff Flycatcher Hirundinea ferruginea
Smoke-colored Pewee Contopus fumigatus
Tropical Pewee Contopus cinereus
Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans
Rusty-margined Flycatcher Myiozetetes cayanensis
Golden-crowned Flycatcher Myiodynastes chrysocephalus
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Barred Becard Pachyramphus versicolor
Cinereous Becard Pachyramphus rufus
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys Heard only
Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides Heard only
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Black-billed Thrush Turdus ignobilis
Green Jay Cyanocorax yncas
Brown-capped Vireo Vireo leucophrys
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Golden-fronted Redstart Myioborus ornatus
Gray-hooded Bush-Tanager Cnemoscopus rubrirostris
Rufous-crested Tanager Creurgops verticalis Possibly seen
Hepatic Tanager Piranga flava
Crimson-backed Tanager Ramphocelus dimidiatus
Flame-rumped Tanager Ramphocelus flammigerus
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus somptuosus
Thick-billed Euphonia Euphonia laniirostris
Saffron-crowned Tanager Tangara xanthocephala
Bay-headed Tanager Tangara gyrola
Scrub Tanager Tangara vitriolina
Blue-necked Tanager Tangara cyanicollis
Beryl-spangled Tanager Tangara nigroviridis
Black-capped Tanager Tangara heinei
Yellow-bellied Seedeater Sporophila nigricollis
Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivacea
Slaty Brush-Finch Atlapetes schistaceus
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis Possibly seen
Yellow-backed Oriole Icterus chrysater
Venezuelan Troupial Icterus icterus Possibly seen
Russet-backed Oropendola Psarocolius angustifrons
Red-bellied Grackle Hypopyrrhus pyrohypogaster Endemic Endangered
Lesser Goldfinch Carduelis psaltria


2. El Mirador Rserve, Genova, Quindio       14th-17th August, 2006

   El Mirador is another PROAVES reserve. To get there, take a bus to Armenia and another one from there to Genova (1700m altitude) costing 5,500 pesos. From Genova it is about another 10km to the end of the road at a different place called Jardin (at 2,600m). This is best done by paying for a jeep to take you up (30,000 pesos). It takes about 50 minutes along a very bad road. With prior notice, the Guardaparque will meet you here and take you up to the house on horseback which takes about 2 hours. The house is basic but has some beds and even hydroelectric-powered lights. Meals are provided here and you can pay at the PROAVES office in Bogota (where your stay should be organized in advance). You will need a guide to show you round the reserve. The project manager called Querubin showed me around for 3 days and I got to see most of the species I was after.
   A trail goes up to the Paramo from the house and at the upper forest we were lucky enough for a group of 7 Rufous-faced Parakeets to fly into the tree next to us. This is supposedly a difficult species to see. We saw about 25 Fuertes Parakeets feeding less than 10m and a similar-sized group of Golden-plumed Parakeets from a clearing near a house called 'Brillante'.
I saw 104 species including 10 lifers

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
White-throated Hawk Buteo albigula
Red-backed Hawk Buteo polyosoma
Carunculated Caracara Phalcoboenus carunculatus
Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway Possibly seen
Andean Guan Penelope montagnii
Noble Snipe Gallinago nobilis Possibly seen
Andean Snipe Gallinago jamesoni
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata Seen near Genova
Rufous-fronted Parakeet Bolborhynchus ferrugineifrons Endemic Endangered
Golden-plumed Parakeet Leptosittaca branickii Vulnerable
Indigo-winged Parrot Hapalopsittaca fuertesi Endemic Critically endangered
Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus Seen near Genova
Speckle-faced (White-crowned) Parrot Pionus tumultuosus (seniloides)
Bronze-winged Parrot Pionus chalcopterus Possibly heard
Scaly-naped Parrot Amazona mercenaria
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
Green Hermit Phaethornis guy
Green Violet-ear Colibri thalassinus
Steely-vented Hummingbird Saucerottia saucerrottei Possibly seen near Genova
Buff-tailed Coronet Boissonneaua flavescens
Shining Sunbeam Aglaeactis cupripennis
Mountain Velvetbreast Lafresnaya lafresnayi
Collared Inca Coeligena torquata
Great Sapphirewing Pterophanes cyanopterus
Tourmaline Sunangel Heliangelus exortis
Black-thighed Puffleg Eriocnemis derbyi Near-threatened
Golden-breasted Puffleg Eriocnemis mosquera
Green-tailed Trainbearer Lesbia nuna
Purple-backed Thornbill Ramphomicron microrhynchum
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina
Viridian Metaltail Metallura williami
Rainbow-bearded Thornbill Chalcostigma herrani
Mountain Avocetbill Opisthoprora euryptera
Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan Andigena hypoglauca Near-threatened
Black-billed Mountain-Toucan Andigena nigrirostris Possibly heard
Andean Toucanet Aulacorhynchus albivitta
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker Piculus rivolii
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae
Many-striped Canastero Asthenes flammulata
Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger
Streaked Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta Grallaria ruficapilla Heard only
Chestnut-naped Antpitta Grallaria nuchalis Heard only
Tawny Antpitta Grallaria quitensis Heard only
Ash-colored Tapaculo Myornis senilis Heard only
Blackish Tapaculo Scytalopus latrans Possibly heard
Long-tailed (Rufous-vented) Tapaculo Scytalopus (femoralis) micropterus Heard only
Red-crested Cotinga Ampelion rubrocristata
Lesser Elaenia Elaenia chiriquensis
Black-capped Tyrannulet Phyllomyias nigrocapillus
White-throated Tyrannulet Mecocerculus leucophrys
Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans
Crowned Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca frontalis
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca rufipectoralis
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca fumicolor
Pale-edged Flycatcher Myiarchus cephalotes
Rusty-margined Flycatcher Myiozetetes cayanensis
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Brown-bellied Swallow Notiochelidon murina
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
White-capped Dipper Cinclus leucocephalus
Rufous Wren Cinnycerthia unirufa
House Wren Troglodytes aedon Heard only
Mountain Wren Troglodytes solstitialis
Sedge Wren Cistothorus platensis
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Green Jay Cyanocorax yncas
Golden-fronted Redstart Myioborus ornatus
Citrine Warbler Basileuterus luteoviridis
Black-crested Warbler Basileuterus nigrocristatus
Capped Conebill Conirostrum albifrons
Grass-green Tanager Chlorornis riefferii
White-capped Tanager Sericossypha albocristata Heard only
Superciliaried Hemispingus Hemispingus superciliaris
Black-headed Hemispingus Hemispingus verticalis
Flame-rumped Tanager Ramphocelus flammigerus
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus Seen in Genova
Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala
Hooded Mountain-Tanager Buthraupis montana
Black-chested Mountain-Tanager Buthraupis eximia
Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus lacrymosus
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus igniventris
Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager Dubusia taeniata
Blue-necked Tanager Tangara cyanicollis
Blue-and-black Tanager Tangara vassorii
Black-backed Bush-Tanager Urothraupis stolzmanni
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch Phrygilus unicolor
Plain-colored Seedeater Catamenia inornata
Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivacea
White-sided Flowerpiercer Diglossa albilatera
Glossy Flowerpiercer Diglossa lafresnayii
Masked Flowerpiercer Diglossopis cyanea
Pale-naped Brush-Finch Atlapetes pallidinucha
Slaty Brush-Finch Atlapetes schistaceus
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica


3. Clarito Botera, Ibague, Tolima       18th August, 2006

   This is a site very near the city of Ibague. From the centre you can take the number 50 bus (or a taxi) which will drop you at the end of the paved road. From here you walk up a gravel road past a few houses with gardens and scattered trees where you can see some common bird species. Highlights in this lower section were White-vented Plumeleteer, Slaty Spinetail and Black-bellied Wren (only heard). An overhead electric wire runs along the road. After this finishes (about an hour walking slowly), there is a nice shady area of forest where the road curves round past a little stream. Here we had Crested Ant-Tanager. After this, there is a final house on a bend where there are lots of flowers. The owners of this house put out bananas for tanagers. Just after this, you pass a curve with a bit of forest left above. Here I saw Tolima Dove flying past. There is little forest left here and deforestation is taking place at quite a rate. I also had this species further along in shady forest. About 20 minutes after this on the left hand side in some scrub I saw the endangered endemic Yellow-headed Brush-Finch. Another good spot is near the top where there is a very small football pitch next to a stream. Here we saw Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant and also found a dead juvenile antpitta (possibly rufous). Along the road, the endemic Blossumcrown has occasionally been seen. The president of Proaves, Alonso lives in Ibague and is a good source of information. I saw 74 species including 6 lifers

Bare-faced Ibis Phimosus infuscatus
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Gray-necked Wood-Rail Aramides cajanea Heard in Ibague
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
Tolima Dove Leptotila conoveri Endemic Endangered
Orange-chinned Parakeet Brotogeris jugularis
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana Heard only
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Green Violet-ear Colibri thalassinus
Violet-crowned Woodnymph Thalurania colombica
White-vented Plumeleteer Chalybura buffonii
Bronzy Inca Coeligena coeligena
Crimson-rumped Toucanet Aulacorhynchus haematopygus Possibly seen
Spot-breasted Woodpecker Colaptes punctigula
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae
Slaty Spinetail Synallaxis brachyura
Spotted Barbtail Premnoplex brunnescens
Montane Foliage-gleaner Anabacerthia striaticollis
Straight-billed Woodcreeper Dendroplex picus
Streak-headed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes souleyetii
Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus
Bar-crested Antshrike Thamnophilus multistriatus
Checker-throated Antwren Myrmotherula fulviventris
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta Grallaria ruficapilla Heard only
Greenish Elaenia Myiopagis viridicata
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster
Slaty-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon superciliaris
Golden-faced Tyrannulet Zimmerius chrysops
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant Lophotriccus pileatus
Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans
Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca cinnamomeiventris
Pale-edged Flycatcher Myiarchus cephalotes
Rusty-margined Flycatcher Myiozetetes cayanensis
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis Possibly seen
Piratic Flycatcher Legatus leucophaius
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Barred Becard Pachyramphus versicolor
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Black-bellied Wren Thryothorus fasciatoventris Heard only
Whiskered Wren Thryothorus mystacalis
House Wren Troglodytes aedon Heard only
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys
Black-billed Thrush Turdus ignobilis
Green Jay Cyanocorax yncas
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Rufous-capped Warbler Basileuterus rufifrons
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Common Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus ophthalmicus
Guira Tanager Hemithraupis guira
Crested Ant-Tanager Habia cristata Endemic
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Thick-billed Euphonia Euphonia laniirostris
Orange-bellied Euphonia Euphonia xanthogaster
Golden Tanager Tangara arthus
Bay-headed Tanager Tangara gyrola
Scrub Tanager Tangara vitriolina
Metallic-green Tanager Tangara labradorides Possibly seen
Blue-necked Tanager Tangara cyanicollis
Black-faced Dacnis Dacnis lineata
Rusty Flowerpiercer Diglossa sittoides
White-sided Flowerpiercer Diglossa albilatera
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
Yellow-breasted Brush-Finch Atlapetes latinuchus
Orange-billed Sparrow Arremon aurantiirostris
Streaked Saltator Saltator striatipectus
Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus
Black-winged Saltator Saltator atripennis
Lesser Goldfinch Carduelis psaltria


4. Parque la Florida, Bogota       20th August, 2006

   This parl is within the city limits of Bogota and is the most reliable site for the endangered Bogota Rail. The park is popular for BBQs, football and the like, but there are also some wetland areas remaining although they are underthreat. The park can be accessed easily by car along Calle 80. Many people take taxis there although buses also pass by the entrance. Once in the park, look for a big, white, metal bridge accross the river. There are a few remaining reeds on the river itself where I saw Yellow-hooded Blackbird. Once over the bridge turn left immediately and walk alongside the reedbeds. You'll need to climb over a fence. There are cows in here and many of the reeds have already been eaten. The Bogota Rail is quite responsive to play-back. I found a good spot where you can walk into an area surrounded by reeds where I managed to call one out. I saw 16 species including 3 lifers

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Bare-faced Ibis Phimosus infuscatus
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Bogota Rail Rallus semiplumbeus Endangered
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans Heard only
Brown-bellied Swallow Notiochelidon murina
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Yellow-hooded Blackbird Chrysomus icterocephalus
Eastern Meadowlark Sturnella magna
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
Andean Siskin Carduelis spinescens


5. Laguna de Fuquene       20th August, 2006

   This lake is also easily accessed from Bogota. It is near the town of Ubate and takes about an hour and a half to drive there. On the road from Bogota to Boyaca, look out for a sign on the right reading 'Laguna de Fuquene. After this turn right at another sign reading 'Chalet Refugio - El Refugio'. The sign has a yellow boat next to it. A short distance along is a blue shop on the left accross from a small port with some boats moared. There are reeds on either side of the port where I hear Apolinars Wren. They are very responsive to play-back but very difficult to see. I finally managed to see on on reeds on the left, facing the lake. Further along on the right is a nice hotel (where you could stay). You can walk down to the water's edge here and Apolinar's Wren is also present in the reeds here. I heard Bogota Rail here, but seeing it is a different matter. The hotel rents paddle boats out by the hour (s5000) but they don't steer very well. I saw 22 species including 1 lifer

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Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps
Great Egret Ardea alba
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Spot-flanked Gallinule Gallinula melanops
American Coot Fulica americana
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana
Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera
Brown-bellied Swallow Notiochelidon murina
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
House Wren Troglodytes aedon Heard only
Apolinar's Wren Cistothorus apolinari Endemic Endangered
Tropical Mockingbird Mimus gilvus
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Yellow-hooded Blackbird Chrysomus icterocephalus
Lesser Goldfinch Carduelis psaltria


6. El Paujil Reserve, near Puerto Pinzon, Boyaca       24th-27th August, 2006

   El Paujil is an excellent and very large ProAves reserve. It is fairly easily accessed by public transport. First you need to get to Puerto Boyaca. Buses several buses leave the terminal in Bogota. I took an Autoboy bus leaving at 6am although you don't need to leave this early. It took 6 hours and cost s24,000. From Puerto Boyaca, a bus leaves the plaza at 3pm for Puerto Pinzon. This takes about 2 hours and costs s10,000. A communal taxi leaves at the same time and is quicker, costing 12,000. Once you get to Pinzon, it is only about 40 minutes walk to the reserve but maybe getting dark so taking a vehicle could be better. With previous planning, someone from the reserve will come down to meet you and take you to the reserve.
   The reserve has ample accomodation in dormitories which have electricity and cold showers. Accomodation and food should be arranged at the ProAves office in Bogota. I was accompanied most of the time by the guardaparques Montero and Montero (Bertulfo), who are brothers and know the reserve well. Montero, the older brother especially knows good sites for the Blue-knobbed Curassow and White-mantled Barbet.
   A good area for birding is a grid of trails marked with letters and distances for studying spider monkeys. This is about 20-30 minutes walk from the house. A student saw the Curassows about 200m along H transect. To get to the grid, you need to turn left (coming from the house) off the track to the entrance, then turn right into the forest. On the first part of this trail were some good trees for hummingbirds including White-necked Jacobin, Black-throated Mango. I also heard the barbets in this area. On the other side of the track further towards the entrance is another trail that loops down towards the river Where I saw spider and capuchin monkeys and Barred Puffbird.
   Another good area is accessed by turning the same way left of the track and straight on instead of turning right into the forest. This comes to a gate where you turn left onto another gravel track. Follow this up the hill to a spot good for the barbets (ask Montero 1). Here you enter the forest and climb up steeply and along a ridge where Great Tinamou was common and I also had White-fronted Nunbird and Golden-headed Manakin higher up.
   Other good areas are accessed by crossing the river (when the water is low) or taking a boat upstream (when the water is high). Accross the river, walk towards Montero's house. Before this, take a very steep trail upwards into good forest where the Curassow has been seen. The final spot I visited is accessed by boat (or walking an hour) to a place called El Socio. From here you can walk up the right side of the valley through excellent forest. Along here I saw Double-toothed Kite, Yellow-browed Shrike Vireo and Sooty Ant-Tanager. At the beginning of this trail, you can instead take a trail crossing the river several times (Buff-rumped Warbler) and climbing up to an abandoned house called Peña Lisa. Near here I saw Blue-chested Hummingbird, White-bearded Manakin and Paraque. From the house, there is another trail into forest where curassows have been seen. I saw a group of 5 Saffron-headed Parrots feeding on a tree with red berries.
I saw 120 species including 19 lifers

Great Tinamou Tinamus major
Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui
Great Egret Ardea alba Seen near Puerto Pinzon
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Seen near Puerto Pinzon
Bare-faced Ibis Phimosus infuscatus
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Double-toothed Kite Harpagus bidentatus
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Black Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima
Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans
American Kestrel Falco sparverius Seen near Puerto Pinzon
Speckled (Colombian) Chachalaca Ortalis guttata colombiana
Marbled Wood-Quail Odontophorus gujanensis
White-throated Crake Laterallus albigularis Heard only
Gray-necked Wood-Rail Aramides cajanea Heard only
Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana Seen near Puerto Pinzon
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis Heard only
Ruddy Pigeon Patagioenas subvinacea Heard only
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Gray-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla
Ruddy Quail-Dove Geotrygon montana
Chestnut-fronted Macaw Ara severa Heard only
Spectacled Parrotlet Forpus conspicillatus Seen near Puerto Pinzon
Orange-chinned Parakeet Brotogeris jugularis
Saffron-headed Parrot Pionopsitta pyrilia Vulnerable
Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus
Orange-winged Parrot Amazona amazonica
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana Heard only
Greater Ani Crotophaga major
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani Seen near Puerto Pinzon
Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
Band-rumped Swift Chaetura spinicaudus Possibly seen
Rufous-breasted Hermit Glaucis hirsuta
Band-tailed Barbthroat Threnetes ruckeri Possibly seen
Eastern Long-tailed Hermit Phaethornis superciliosus Possibly seen
Stripe-throated Hermit Phaethornis striigularis
White-necked Jacobin Florisuga mellivora
Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis
Blue-tailed Emerald Chlorostilbon mellisugus Possibly seen
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl
Blue-chested Hummingbird Polyerata amabilis
Violaceous Trogon Trogon violaceus
Black-tailed Trogon Trogon melanurus
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquatus Seen near Puerto Pinzon
Rufous Motmot Baryphthengus martii
Broad-billed Motmot Electron platyrhynchum Heard only
Barred Puffbird Nystalus radiatus
White-fronted Nunbird Monasa morphoeus
White-mantled Barbet Capito hypoleucus Endemic Endangered Heard only
Collared Aracari Pteroglossus torquatus
Spot-breasted Woodpecker Colaptes punctigula
Cinnamon Woodpecker Celeus loricatus
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper Glyphorynchus spirurus
Straight-billed Woodcreeper Dendroplex picus Possibly seen
Streak-headed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes souleyetii
Great Antshrike Taraba major Heard only
Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus
Western Slaty-Antshrike Thamnophilus atrinucha
Checker-throated Antwren Myrmotherula fulviventris
White-fringed Antwren Formicivora grisea
Chestnut-backed Antbird Myrmeciza exsul
White-bellied Antpitta Grallaria hypoleuca Heard only
Purple-throated Fruitcrow Querula purpurata
White-bearded Manakin Manacus manacus
Blue-crowned Manakin Lepidothrix coronata
Golden-headed Manakin Pipra erythrocephala
Ochre-bellied Flycatcher Mionectes oleagineus
Sepia-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon amaurocephalus
Southern Bentbill Oncostoma olivaceum Possibly seen
Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum
Olivaceous Flatbill Rhynchocyclus olivaceus
Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens
Bright-rumped Attila Attila spadiceus Heard only
Rufous Mourner Rhytipterna holerythra Heard only
Panama Flycatcher Myiarchus panamensis Possibly seen
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Rusty-margined Flycatcher Myiozetetes cayanensis
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus
Piratic Flycatcher Legatus leucophaius
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Cinnamon Becard Pachyramphus cinnamomeus
Cinereous Becard Pachyramphus rufus Possibly seen
Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Black-bellied Wren Thryothorus fasciatoventris Possibly heard
White-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucosticta
Scaly-breasted Wren Microcerculus marginatus
Pale-vented Thrush Turdus obsoletus
Black-chested Jay Cyanocorax affinis
Lesser Greenlet Hylophilus decurtatus
Yellow-browed Shrike-Vireo Vireolanius eximius
Buff-rumped Warbler Basileuterus fulvicauda
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Yellow-backed Tanager Hemithraupis flavicollis
White-shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus luctuosus
Sooty Ant-Tanager Habia gutturalis Endemic Near-threatened
Crimson-backed Tanager Ramphocelus dimidiatus
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Thick-billed Euphonia Euphonia laniirostris
Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza
Swallow-Tanager Tersina viridis
Ruddy-breasted Seedeater Sporophila minuta
Thick-billed Seed-Finch Oryzoborus funereus
Black-striped Sparrow Arremonops conirostris
Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus
Yellow-hooded Blackbird Chrysomus icterocephalus Seen near Puerto Pinzon
Orange-crowned Oriole Icterus auricapillus
Chestnut-headed Oropendola Psarocolius wagleri
Citron-throated Toucan Ramphastos citreolaemus
Chestnut-mandibled Toucan Ramphastos swainsonii


7. Cerulean Warbler Reserve, San Vicente de Chucuri, Santander       28th-30th August, 2006

   Another ProAves reserve. To get there take a bus from Bucaramanga to San Vicente de Chucuri taking 2 hours (14,000). From there you can hire a jeep to take you up to the reserve (30,000). The director of the reserve, Juan Carlos Luna who met me in San Vicente is a good source of information about birds in the reserve and the surrounding area. I stayed in a house in a coffee plantation (1300m). This was in the process of being bought by Proaves. I slept in my tent but there should be beds in the future. From the house it is about 40 minutes walk up to the forest. The reserve is only small having about 200ha but another 400ha of municipal owned forest borders.
   Around the house and coffee plantation are some interesting birds including: Aplomado Falcon, Russet-backed Oropendola, Bicolored Wren and Yellow Oriole. On the way up to the forest I saw Azara's Spinetail (with an unusual call), Yellow-throated Brush-Finch and Yellow-bellied Seedeater.
   The forest itself was fairly quiet, even in the mornings, but I still managed to see a good range of tanagers and woodcreepers. About 20minutes walk after entering the forest is a trail leading off to the right though good forest. This junction is a good spot to listen out for the critically endangered endemic Gorgeted Wood-Quail. It is more vocal in some seasons than others. This time it is very quiet and it took us 3 days to hear it call just once. Get there as early as possible. Along the trail into the forest I saw Parker's Antbird and the endangered endemic Black Inca. The latter I also saw higher up, where the trail is very straight, and again at the ridge called Talisman (1900m). On clear days, the latter is good for spotting raptors and swifts.
I saw 96 species including 7 lifers

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Black Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus Heard only
Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis
Gorgeted Wood-Quail Odontophorus strophium Endemic Critically endangered Heard only
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata
Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Seen near San Vicente
Orange-chinned Parakeet Brotogeris jugularis
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana Heard only
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia Heard only
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
White-tipped Swift Aeronautes montivagus
Violet-crowned Woodnymph Thalurania colombica
Andean Emerald Agyrtria franciae
Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys
Black Inca Coeligena prunellei Endemic Endangered
Collared Trogon Trogon collaris
Crimson-rumped Toucanet Aulacorhynchus haematopygus Possibly seen
Santa Marta Toucanet Aulacorhynchus lautus Endemic
Golden-olive Woodpecker Piculus rubiginosus
Crimson-crested Woodpecker Campephilus melanoleucos Possibly seen
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae
Spotted Barbtail Premnoplex brunnescens
Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans
Montane Foliage-gleaner Anabacerthia striaticollis
Flammulated Treehunter Thripadectes flammulatus
Lineated Foliage-gleaner Syndactyla subalaris
Plain-brown Woodcreeper Dendrocincla fuliginosa
Black-striped Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus lachrymosus
Olive-backed Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus triangularis
Straight-billed Woodcreeper Dendroplex picus
Streak-headed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes souleyetii
Montane Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger
Brown-billed Scythebill Campylorhamphus pusillus
Uniform Antshrike Thamnophilus unicolor
Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis
Slaty Antwren Myrmotherula schisticolor
Parker's Antbird Cercomacra parkeri Endemic
Nariño Tapaculo Scytalopus vicinior Possibly seen
Golden-winged Manakin Masius chrysopterus
Olive-striped Flycatcher Mionectes olivaceus
Slaty-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon superciliaris Possibly seen
Plumbeous-crowned Tyrannulet Phyllomyias plumbeiceps
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant Lophotriccus pileatus
Ornate Flycatcher Myiotriccus ornatus
Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Smoke-colored Pewee Contopus fumigatus
Tropical Pewee Contopus cinereus Seen near San Vicente
Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus
Apical Flycatcher Myiarchus apicalis Endemic Possibly seen
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua Possibly heard
Golden-crowned Flycatcher Myiodynastes chrysocephalus
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis Seen near San Vicente
Bicolored Wren Campylorhynchus griseus
Whiskered Wren Thryothorus mystacalis
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys
Tropical Mockingbird Mimus gilvus
Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides
Black-billed Thrush Turdus ignobilis
Green Jay Cyanocorax yncas
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Russet-crowned Warbler Basileuterus coronatus Possibly seen
Three-striped Warbler Basileuterus tristriatus
Common Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus ophthalmicus
Flame-rumped Tanager Ramphocelus flammigerus
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus somptuosus
Orange-bellied Euphonia Euphonia xanthogaster
Golden Tanager Tangara arthus
Saffron-crowned Tanager Tangara xanthocephala
Flame-faced Tanager Tangara parzudakii
Golden-naped Tanager Tangara ruficervix
Metallic-green Tanager Tangara labradorides
Blue-necked Tanager Tangara cyanicollis
Beryl-spangled Tanager Tangara nigroviridis
Black-capped Tanager Tangara heinei
Yellow-bellied Seedeater Sporophila nigricollis
Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivacea
Bluish Flowerpiercer Diglossopis caerulescens
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
White-naped (Yellow-throated) Brush-Finch Atlapetes albinucha (gutturalis)
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch Buarremon brunneinucha
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Black-winged Saltator Saltator atripennis
Yellow Oriole Icterus nigrogularis
Russet-backed Oropendola Psarocolius angustifrons
Lesser Goldfinch Carduelis psaltria
Black-mandibled Toucan Ramphastos ambiguus Possibly heard


8. Parque Gallineral, San Gil       31st August, 2006

   San Gil is easily accessed from Bucaramanga taking 2 and a half hours and costing 14,000s. This is a good site for the critically endangered endemic Niceforo's Wren. This is a very little known species restricted to this area. It is supposedly easy with play-back next to the Parque Gallineral in San Gil, but I didn't have a recording of the species. A month before, Juan Carlos and an English BIrder had it in 5 minutes where I only heard it once in 3 hours seaching. To get to the spot, you can either go through the park or round the back. To go through the park, you'll need to check with the caretaker on the gate (preferably the night before) whether you can enter at 6am. The park only opens to the public at 8am. The park is very pretty having many big trees but little natural vegetation below. Lots of pretty flowers though and a few nice birds (Black-faced Grassquit). Going through the park, go straight from the gate, over 2 white bridges and climb through 2 fences which leads into nice forest with a dense undergrowth. The same spot can be reached by going further along the main road from the entrance (towards Bucaramanga), turn right over a bridge and straight away look for a small path going down a slope. Follow this along into forest. The trail goes along through forest and finally along more open habitat along the river.
   Between San Gil and Bucaramanga is a possible site for the critically endangered endemic Chestnut-bellied Hummingbird. Again, a month before, Juan Carlos saw here at 2 large trees with yellow flowers. Unfortunately these trees were no longer in flower. To find the trees, look out for a big national park sign on the left about an hour to hour and a half from San Gil (8000s). After this is another big 'Aguila' sign on the left. Then a signed, right turn towards 'Cepita'. Bus drivers know this turning. The 2 trees are about 100m before the turning. After this, the road continues down to the Chicamocha river and on to Bucaramanga (6000s by bus).
I saw 33 species including 3 lifers

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Spectacled Parrotlet Forpus conspicillatus
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani Seen near Cepita turn-off
White-necked Jacobin Florisuga mellivora
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl
Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus
Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis
Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens
Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Bicolored Wren Campylorhynchus griseus Seen near Cepita turn-off
Niceforo's Wren Thryothorus nicefori Endemic Critically endangered Possibly heard
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Tropical Mockingbird Mimus gilvus Seen near Cepita turn-off
Black-billed Thrush Turdus ignobilis
Green Jay Cyanocorax yncas Heard only
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis
Rufous-capped Warbler Basileuterus rufifrons
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Scrub Tanager Tangara vitriolina
Blue-necked Tanager Tangara cyanicollis
Black-faced Grassquit Tiaris bicolor
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
Golden-winged Sparrow Arremon schlegeli
Streaked Saltator Saltator striatipectus
Venezuelan Troupial Icterus icterus Seen near Cepita turn-off


9. El Dorado Reserve, near Santa Marta, Magdalena       1st-5th September, 2006

   El Dorado is the final ProAves reserve I visited. It is located close to the city of Santa Marta in the Sierra Nevada mountains. There are 2 ways to get there from Santa Marta. Either ProAves can organize a vehicle which is rather costly (150,000s) or you can take a truck which leaves the market at 8am and takes about 2 and a half hours (6000s). This drops you off at a junction called, 'El Ye' from where you have about an hour to hour and a half to the cabaña. On the way up I saw Blossomcrown. This feeds on the pretty roadside (Impaciens) flowers just above the school. The ProAves cabaña is well located at about 1950m and there is good birding nearby including a nice patch patch of foret directly below where I saw Santa MArta Antpitta and possibly Santa Marta Wren. The cabaña has no electricity, OK bunk beds and a local girl cooked us meals. The only other person there with me was a student named Christian who was studying the Santa Marta Parakeet.
   The first good birding spot above the house is a trail leading off from the first bend into nice forest where I saw White-rumped Hawk, Grey-throated Leaftosser, Spotted Barbtail and Slaty Antwren. From the cabaña to the top is quite far and can 2-3 hours. Trucks sometimes go up in the early morning, and a good idea is to take one of these and bird your way down. About 20 minutes walk from the cabaña is the guardaprque Martin's house. From here, a trail called Sendero los Bromelias goes up where I saw the endemic Santa Marta Toucanet (possibly just a sub-species) and Rusty-headed Spinetail. This trail is a lot shorter than walking the road but is very steep. Up from Martin's house is 'Estacion Ecologico San Lorenzo' Much of this area has non-native pines but I saw White-tipped Quetzals next to the building and Black-throated Wood-Quails nearby. Up from here, look out for a trail to the left up a steep bank. This leads to nice forest (2400m) with Santa Marta Antpitta, Strong-billed Woodcreeper and Sickle-winged Guan. Santa Marta Parakeets are also possible here but easier further up. A little further along is a spot with an excellent view, good for spotting parrots in the morning. After this, the road passes several antenna where I saw Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant perching on top of. Near the top, the road forks, the right to an antenna and left towards the military base at the peak. Follow the left fork oand look out for a small patch of forest on the left that is very productive. Here I saw Plushcap, Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant and Streak-crested Spinetail. Further along is a gate on the right to a clearing with a small lake. In this area, there are many nest boxes for the parakeets and this was the easiest place to see them as there was an active nest. The last spot was 5 minutes further on from the lake where there is nice forest. This is the best site for the endangered endemic Santa MArta Bush-Tyrant. It may not be a good idea to go as far as the base as you may be hassled by the soldiers.
I saw 80 species including 24 lifers

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Osprey Pandion haliaetus
Plain-breasted Hawk Accipiter ventralis
White-rumped Hawk Buteo leucorrhous
Band-tailed Guan Penelope argyrotis
Sickle-winged Guan Chamaepetes goudotii
Black-fronted Wood-Quail Odontophorus atrifrons Vulnerable
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata
Lined Quail-Dove Geotrygon linearis
Scarlet-fronted Parakeet Aratinga wagleri
Santa Marta Parakeet Pyrrhura viridicata Endemic Endangered
Red-billed Parrot Pionus sordidus
Scaly-naped Parrot Amazona mercenaria
White-tipped Swift Aeronautes montivagus Possibly seen
Green Violet-ear Colibri thalassinus
Violet-crowned Woodnymph Thalurania colombica
Blossomcrown Anthocephala floriceps Endemic Vulnerable
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina
Masked Trogon Trogon personatus
White-tipped Quetzal Pharomachrus fulgidus
Keel-billed Toucan Ramphastos sulfuratus
Golden-olive Woodpecker Piculus rubiginosus
Crimson-crested Woodpecker Campephilus melanoleucos
Rusty-headed Spinetail Synallaxis fuscorufa Endemic Near-threatened
Streak-capped Spinetail Cranioleuca hellmayri Endemic
Spotted Barbtail Premnoplex brunnescens
Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans
Montane Foliage-gleaner Anabacerthia striaticollis
Gray-throated Leaftosser Sclerurus albigularis
Strong-billed Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes promeropirhynchus
Black-striped Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus lachrymosus
Slaty Antwren Myrmotherula schisticolor
Santa Marta Antpitta Grallaria bangsi Endemic Near-threatened
Brown-rumped Tapaculo Scytalopus latebricola Endemic
Golden-breasted Fruiteater Pipreola aureopectus
Mountain Elaenia Elaenia frantzii
Olive-striped Flycatcher Mionectes olivaceus
Black-capped Tyrannulet Phyllomyias nigrocapillus
White-throated Tyrannulet Mecocerculus leucophrys
Black-throated Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus granadensis
Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Olive-sided Flycatcher Contopus cooperi
Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca diadema
Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant Myiotheretes striaticollis
Santa Marta Bush-Tyrant Myiotheretes pernix Endemic Endangered
Bright-rumped Attila Attila spadiceus Heard only
Golden-crowned Flycatcher Myiodynastes chrysocephalus
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Santa Marta Wren Troglodytes monticola Endemic Possibly seen
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys
Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides Heard only
Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush Catharus fuscater
Yellow-legged Thrush Platycichla flavipes
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas
Black-chested Jay Cyanocorax affinis
Brown-capped Vireo Vireo leucophrys
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Yellow-crowned Redstart Myioborus flavivertex Endemic
Santa Marta Warbler Basileuterus basilicus Endemic Near-threatened Possibly seen
White-lored Warbler Basileuterus conspicillatus Endemic Near-threatened
White-shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus luctuosus
Crimson-backed Tanager Ramphocelus dimidiatus
Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala
Santa Marta Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus melanogenys Endemic
Blue-naped Chlorophonia Chlorophonia cyanea
Bay-headed Tanager Tangara gyrola
Black-capped Tanager Tangara heinei
Plush-capped Finch Catamblyrhynchus diadema
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Paramo Seedeater Catamenia homochroa
White-sided Flowerpiercer Diglossa albilatera
Santa Marta Brush-Finch Atlapetes melanocephalus Endemic
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-bellied Grosbeak Pheucticus chrysogaster
Great-tailed Grackle Quiscalus mexicanus Seen near Santa Marta
Andean Siskin Carduelis spinescens


10. Parque Nacional Isla de Salamanca, near Baranquilla       12th September, 2005

   This is the only site for the critically endangered endemic Sapphire-bellied Hummingbird. It is restricted to mangroves but its status and even taxanomy are unclear. I visited the reserve for just 1 day but not to the area with recent reports which needs to be accessed by boat. A student has just started work on the species and would be a good source of advice. His name is Jose Vergara jerggil54@yahoo.es .
   The park entrance is at a place called Los Cocos (km 11). It can be easily accessed by bus as it is on the main route from Baranquilla to Santa Marta but you may have to pay the full fare (7000s) from the bus terminal. Leaving from a bridge on the outskirts of Baranquilla, we managed to negotiate a fare of 4000s. A bus leaves the centre for km13 along this road.
   In the reserve there is a nice trail through mangroves with Black-crested Antshrike, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Chestnut Piculet, Bicolored Conebill and Prothonatory Warbler, and past lakes with several waders and many Lesser Nighthawks. I also walked from the entrance along the highway towards Santa Marta but didn't manage to reach a good area after km 20. With a car, you could check several intereting points along the road between km 20 and km 50.
I saw 50 species including 4 lifers

Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus
Brown Pelican Pelecanus occidentalis
Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus
Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi
Great Egret Ardea alba
Tricolored Heron Egretta tricolor
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Striated Heron Butorides striata
Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus
White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus Seen in Baranquilla
Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis
Limpkin Aramus guarauna
Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinica
Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus
Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes
Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria
Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica
Royal Tern Sterna maxima
Yellow-billed Tern Sterna superciliaris
Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex
Black Skimmer Rynchops niger
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Brown-throated Parakeet Aratinga pertinax Heard only
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Lesser Nighthawk Chordeiles acutipennis
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquatus
Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona
Chestnut Piculet Picumnus cinnamomeus
Golden-green Woodpecker Piculus chrysochloros
Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomea
Black-crested Antshrike Sakesphorus canadensis
Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum
Pied Water-Tyrant Fluvicola pica
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus
Brown-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus tyrannulus
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus
Yellow Warbler Dendroica petechia
Prothonotary Warbler Protonotaria citrea
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola Heard only
Bicolored Conebill Conirostrum bicolor
Great-tailed Grackle Quiscalus mexicanus