Sites visited


1. Miraflores, Mindo area       20th-22nd February, 2006

   This is an excellent birding area less than 2 hours by bus from Quito. Buses leave from the Flor de Valle terminal in Quito and cost about $1.50. I stayed at a friends place in the tiny village of Miraflores (1,900m) 30 minutes before Mindo at about km 65 but there are many places to stay in Mindo. In fact this town seems to have grown up on birding. There is nowhere to stay in Miraflores as yet but the Arcos family are building accomodation. They have also built a 'Canopy tour', a slide through the trees. There is great birding on the property with many interesting species of tanager, hummingbird and antpitta. Giant and Moustached Antpitta were both heard nearby as was Toucan Barbet. Walking around the town of Mindo and the several km stretch of from the main road down into town can also be productive. Hitching along the roads is fairly easy.
I saw 125 species including 36 lifers

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Plain-breasted Hawk Accipiter ventralis Photographed Recorded
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Recorded
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Crested Guan Penelope purpurascens Possibly heard
Dark-backed Wood-Quail Odontophorus melanonotus Endemic Vulnerable Heard only Recorded
White-throated Crake Laterallus albigularis Heard only. Recorded
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata
Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea Recorded
Ruddy Pigeon Patagioenas subvinacea
White-throated Quail-Dove Geotrygon frenata Heard only
Barred Parakeet Bolborhynchus lineola Heard only
Red-billed Parrot Pionus sordidus
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris Recorded
Mottled Owl Ciccaba virgata Heard only. Recorded
Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis Possibly seen
Band-winged Nightjar Caprimulgus longirostris
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift Panyptila cayennensis
Green Violet-ear Colibri thalassinus Photographed
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl
Andean Emerald Agyrtria franciae
Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys Photographed
Fawn-breasted Brilliant Heliodoxa rubinoides
Brown Inca Coeligena wilsoni
Gorgeted Sunangel Heliangelus strophianus
Booted Racket-tail Ocreatus underwoodii Recorded
Violet-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus coelestis
Wedge-billed Hummingbird Augastes geoffroyi
Purple-throated Woodstar Calliphlox mitchellii Photographed
White-bellied Woodstar Chaetocercus mulsant
Masked Trogon Trogon personatus
Golden-headed Quetzal Pharomachrus auriceps Heard only
Rufous Motmot Baryphthengus martii Heard only
Toucan Barbet Semnornis ramphastinus Near-threatened Heard only
Crimson-rumped Toucanet Aulacorhynchus haematopygus Photographed
Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan Andigena laminirostris Near-threatened
Smoky-brown Woodpecker Veniliornis fumigatus
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker Piculus rivolii Photographed
Powerful Woodpecker Campephilus pollens
(Pacific Hornero) Furnarius leucopus
Rufous Spinetail Synallaxis unirufa
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae Heard only
Slaty Spinetail Synallaxis brachyura Recorded
Red-faced Spinetail Cranioleuca erythrops
Rusty-winged Barbtail Premnornis guttuligera Possibly seen
Spotted Barbtail Premnoplex brunnescens
Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner Anabacerthia variegaticeps
Lineated Foliage-gleaner Syndactyla subalaris Recorded
Tyrannine Woodcreeper Dendrocincla tyrannina
Strong-billed Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes promeropirhynchus Photographed
Spotted Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus erythropygius
Montane Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger
Uniform Antshrike Thamnophilus unicolor Recorded
Pacific Antwren Myrmotherula pacifica
Long-tailed Antbird Drymophila caudata Recorded
Immaculate Antbird Myrmeciza immaculata
Rufous-breasted Antthrush Formicarius rufipectus Heard only
Giant Antpitta Grallaria gigantea Endangered Heard only
Moustached Antpitta Grallaria alleni Endangered Heard only
Nariño Tapaculo Scytalopus vicinior Heard only
Spillman's Tapaculo Scytalopus spillmanni Heard only
Green-and-black Fruiteater Pipreola riefferii Photographed
Scaled Fruiteater Ampelioides tschudii
Streak-necked Flycatcher Mionectes striaticollis
White-tailed Tyrannulet Mecocerculus poecilocercus
Ornate Flycatcher Myiotriccus ornatus
Flavescent Flycatcher Myiophobus flavicans Possibly seen
Smoke-colored Pewee Contopus fumigatus
Golden-crowned Flycatcher Myiodynastes chrysocephalus Photographed Recorded
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Barred Becard Pachyramphus versicolor
One-colored Becard Pachyramphus homochrous
Turquoise Jay Cyanolyca turcosa Recorded
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca Photographed Recorded
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis Photographed
Sharpe's Wren Cinnycerthia olivascens Heard only
House Wren Troglodytes aedon Recorded
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys
Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides Heard only
Swainson's Thrush Catharus ustulatus
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater Recorded
Glossy-black Thrush Turdus serranus Possibly seen
Ecuadorian Thrush Turdus maculirostris
Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea
Brown-capped Vireo Vireo leucophrys Recorded
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus
Blackburnian Warbler Dendroica fusca
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Russet-crowned Warbler Basileuterus coronatus
Three-striped Warbler Basileuterus tristriatus
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Dusky Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus semifuscus Recorded
White-lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus
White-winged Tanager Piranga leucoptera
Flame-rumped Tanager Ramphocelus flammigerus
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus somptuosus Photographed
Fawn-breasted Tanager Pipraeidea melanonota
Golden-rumped Euphonia Euphonia cyanocephala
Orange-bellied Euphonia Euphonia xanthogaster
Golden Tanager Tangara arthus Photographed Recorded
Silver-throated Tanager Tangara icterocephala
Flame-faced Tanager Tangara parzudakii Photographed
Golden-naped Tanager Tangara ruficervix
Beryl-spangled Tanager Tangara nigroviridis Photographed
Blue-and-black Tanager Tangara vassorii
Black-capped Tanager Tangara heinei
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Variable Seedeater Sporophila corvina
Yellow-bellied Seedeater Sporophila nigricollis
Blue Seedeater Amaurospiza concolor Possibly seen
Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivacea
White-sided Flowerpiercer Diglossa albilatera
Tricolored Brush-Finch Atlapetes tricolor
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch Buarremon brunneinucha
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Black-winged Saltator Saltator atripennis
Scrub Blackbird Dives warszewiczi
Yellow-bellied Siskin Carduelis xanthogastra


2. Baños area       23rd-24th February, 2006

   This is a popular tourist town with beautiful scenery and hotsprings nearby. Again I stayed with the Arcos family outside of town where they own a trout farm (2,200m) that borders the Sangay National Park. There are trails up from the farm into good forest in 2 valleys. The area was great for Tapaculos (Ocellated, Unicoloured & Spillman's), hummingbirds and tanagers. Up the left valley there is a wonderful spot for hummingbirds (Saphire-vented Puffleg, Tournaline Sunangel & Collared Inca) in a clearing, quite far up, created by a landslide several years ago. The right valley had Grey-breasted Mountain-Toucan, Rusty-barred Owl, Rufous Antpitta and Blue-backed Conebill. There is plenty of accomodation in Baños and soon the Arcos family and their neighbours will finish cabins. The trails are on private land but access will be granted to people staying or eating trout at the restaurant being built.
I saw 72 species including 35 lifers

Tawny-breasted Tinamou Nothocercus julius Heard only. Recorded
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Sickle-winged Guan Chamaepetes goudotii Photographed
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata
White-throated Quail-Dove Geotrygon frenata Heard only
White-capped Parrot Pionus seniloides
Rufous-banded Owl Ciccaba albitarsus
Chestnut-collared Swift Streptoprocne rutila Possibly seen
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
White-tipped Swift Aeronautes montivagus
Green-fronted Lancebill Doryfera ludovicae Possibly seen. Photographed
Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys
Collared Inca Coeligena torquata
Tourmaline Sunangel Heliangelus exortis Photographed
Glowing Puffleg Eriocnemis vestitus
Sapphire-vented Puffleg Eriocnemis luciani
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina
Mountain Avocetbill Opisthoprora euryptera
Long-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus kingi
Masked Trogon Trogon personatus Photographed
Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan Andigena hypoglauca Near-threatened Photographed
Andean Toucanet Aulacorhynchus albivitta
Bar-bellied Woodpecker Veniliornis nigriceps
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker Piculus rivolii Photographed
Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger
Giant Antpitta Grallaria gigantea Endangered Possibly heard
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta Grallaria ruficapilla
Rufous Antpitta Grallaria rufula
Unicolored Tapaculo Scytalopus unicolor
Spillman's Tapaculo Scytalopus spillmanni Heard only
Ocellated Tapaculo Acropternis orthonyx Photographed
Green-and-black Fruiteater Pipreola riefferii
Dusky Piha Lipaugus fuscocinereus Photographed
White-banded Tyrannulet Mecocerculus stictopterus
Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea Photographed
Smoke-colored Pewee Contopus fumigatus
Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca cinnamomeiventris
Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant Myiotheretes striaticollis
Rufous Wren Cinnycerthia unirufa
Plain-tailed Wren Thryothorus euophrys Heard only
Mountain Wren Troglodytes solstitialis Photographed
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys
Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater Photographed
Green Jay Cyanocorax yncas
Turquoise Jay Cyanolyca turcosa Photographed
Brown-capped Vireo Vireo leucophrys
Blackburnian Warbler Dendroica fusca
Canada Warbler Wilsonia canadensis
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Spectacled Redstart Myioborus melanocephalus
Citrine Warbler Basileuterus luteoviridis
Russet-crowned Warbler Basileuterus coronatus
Blue-backed Conebill Conirostrum sitticolor
Grass-green Tanager Chlorornis riefferii
Short-billed Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus parvirostris
Black-eared Hemispingus Hemispingus melanotis
Hooded Mountain-Tanager Buthraupis montana Photographed
Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus lacrymosus
Golden-crowned Tanager Iridosornis rufivertex
Saffron-crowned Tanager Tangara xanthocephala
Flame-faced Tanager Tangara parzudakii
Golden-naped Tanager Tangara ruficervix
Beryl-spangled Tanager Tangara nigroviridis
Plush-capped Finch Catamblyrhynchus diadema Photographed
Masked Flowerpiercer Diglossopis cyanea
Slaty Brush-Finch Atlapetes schistaceus
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch Buarremon brunneinucha
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Black-backed Grosbeak Pheucticus aureoventris
Mountain Cacique Cacicus chrysonotus


3. Yana Yaca Reserve       25th February, 2006

   This small reserve belonging to the American biologist Harold Greeney is next to the more famous Cabañas San Isidro where there is an undescribed species of owl. One can pay to enter Cabañas San Isidro or stay for the night although it is quite expensive. There are also a couple of trails along the road leading to Yana Yaca which go through CSI property. These may or maynot be free. Birding along the road also seems to be good. Greeney runs a biological station there where biologists pay $15 a night to come and stay.
I saw 29 species including 5 lifers

Torrent Duck Merganetta armata Seen on the way
Yellow-billed Pintail Anas georgica Seen on the way
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Andean Gull Larus serranus Seen on the way
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans Seen on the way
Collared Inca Coeligena torquata Photographed
Montane Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger
Sierran Elaenia Elaenia pallatangae Possibly seen
Smoke-colored Pewee Contopus fumigatus
Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans Seen on the way
Pale-edged Flycatcher Myiarchus cephalotes
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca Seen on the way. Photographed
Brown-bellied Swallow Notiochelidon murina
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Green Jay Cyanocorax yncas
Blackburnian Warbler Dendroica fusca
Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia
Canada Warbler Wilsonia canadensis
Spectacled Redstart Myioborus melanocephalus
Black-crested Warbler Basileuterus nigrocristatus Seen on the way
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Fawn-breasted Tanager Pipraeidea melanonota
Saffron-crowned Tanager Tangara xanthocephala
Black-capped Tanager Tangara heinei
Masked Flowerpiercer Diglossopis cyanea
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Scarlet-rumped Cacique Cacicus uropygialis
Mountain Cacique Cacicus chrysonotus
Russet-backed Oropendola Psarocolius angustifrons


4. Loja Area       19th, 26th, 28th February, 2006

   I passed this area several times on the bus and birded roadside scrub a little (Streak-headed Woodcreeper, Speckle-chested Wren & Pacific Elania) when it broke down 2 hours before Loja coming from Quito. I also saw several new birds on the bus to Huaquillas on the border with Peru including Peruvian Meadowlark, Gray-breasted Martin & Bay-winged Hawk.
I saw 30 species including 4 lifers

Great Egret Ardea alba Seen on the way to Laja
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Seen on the way to Laja
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus Seen on the way to Laja
Harris's Hawk Parabuteo unicinctus Seen on the way to Laja
American Kestrel Falco sparverius Seen on the way to Laja
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata Seen on the way to Laja
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Seen on the way to Laja
Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris Seen on the way to Laja
(Pacific Hornero) Furnarius leucopus Seen on the way to Laja
Streak-headed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes souleyetii
Pacific Elaenia Myiopagis subplacens Possibly seen
Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant Euscarthmus meloryphus Heard only
Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus Seen on the way to Laja
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea Seen on the way to Laja
Speckle-breasted Wren Thryothorus sclateri
House Wren Troglodytes aedon Seen on the way to Laja
Long-tailed Mockingbird Mimus longicaudatus Seen on the way to Laja
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater Seen on the way to Laja
Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus
Thick-billed Euphonia Euphonia laniirostris
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina Heard only
Variable Seedeater Sporophila corvina
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
Grayish Saltator Saltator coerulescens Heard only
Peruvian Meadowlark Sturnella bellicosa Seen on the way to Laja
Yellow-tailed Oriole Icterus mesomelas Possibly seen


5. Tapichalaca Reserve       February, 2006

   This is an incredible reserve set up to protect the little remaining habitat for the Jocotoco Antpitta discovered by Ridgely and others in 1997/8. I was lucky enough to be there at the same time as some founding members of the Jocotoco Foundation including Ridgely Himself. The bird can be heard easily along the Jocotoco trail and seen with a little more difficulty. Playback is useful although the bird is fairly easy to immitate. Orange-banded Flycatcher was seen along the beginning of this trail. There are feeders around Casa Simpson where you stay (with Chestnut-breasted Coronet, Collared Inca, White-bellied Woodstar and Long-tailed Sylph) and an area good for mixed flocks further down the main road. Many species of antpitta and tapaculo can be heard in the area.
I saw 82 species including 23 lifers

Broad-winged Hawk Buteo platypterus
Sickle-winged Guan Chamaepetes goudotii
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Seen on the way to the reserve
White-throated Quail-Dove Geotrygon frenata Heard only
Golden-plumed Parakeet Leptosittaca branickii Vulnerable Heard only
Barred Parakeet Bolborhynchus lineola
White-capped Parrot Pionus seniloides
Red-billed Parrot Pionus sordidus
Scaly-naped Parrot Amazona mercenaria
Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys
Chestnut-breasted Coronet Boissonneaua matthewsii Photographed
Bronzy Inca Coeligena coeligena
Collared Inca Coeligena torquata Photographed
Little (Flame-throated) Sunangel Heliangelus micraster Photographed
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina
Long-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus kingi Photographed
Amethyst-throated Sunangel Heliangelus amethysticollis Photographed
Golden-headed Quetzal Pharomachrus auriceps Heard only
Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan Andigena hypoglauca Near-threatened
Andean Toucanet Aulacorhynchus albivitta
Bar-bellied Woodpecker Veniliornis nigriceps
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker Piculus rivolii
Rufous Spinetail Synallaxis unirufa Heard only
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae Heard only
Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger
Streaked Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii
Montane Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger
Barred Antthrush Chamaeza mollissima Heard only
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta Grallaria ruficapilla Heard only
Chestnut-naped Antpitta Grallaria nuchalis Heard only
Jocotoco Antpitta Grallaria ridgelyi Endemic Endangered
White-bellied Antpitta Grallaria hypoleuca Heard only
Rufous Antpitta Grallaria rufula Possibly heard
Slate-crowned Antpitta Grallaricula nana Heard only
Ash-colored Tapaculo Myornis senilis Heard only
Long-tailed Tapaculo Scytalopus micropterus Heard only
White-crowned Tapaculo Scytalopus atratus Heard only
Chusquea Tapaculo Scytalopus parkeri Endemic Heard only
Green-and-black Fruiteater Pipreola riefferii
Dusky Piha Lipaugus fuscocinereus
Rufous-headed Pygmy-Tyrant Pseudotriccus ruficeps
Sulphur-bellied Tyrannulet Mecocerculus minor Heard only
White-banded Tyrannulet Mecocerculus stictopterus
Orange-banded Flycatcher Myiophobus lintoni Near-threatened
Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Smoke-colored Pewee Contopus fumigatus Heard only
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca rufipectoralis
Smoky Bush-Tyrant Myiotheretes fumigatus Photographed
Rufous-tailed Tyrant Knipolegus poecilurus
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Pale-footed Swallow Notiochelidon flavipes
Rufous Wren Cinnycerthia unirufa
Plain-tailed Wren Thryothorus euophrys Heard only
Mountain Wren Troglodytes solstitialis Heard only
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys Heard only
Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides Heard only
Brown-capped Vireo Vireo leucophrys
Blackburnian Warbler Dendroica fusca
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Spectacled Redstart Myioborus melanocephalus
Black-crested Warbler Basileuterus nigrocristatus
Capped Conebill Conirostrum albifrons
Grass-green Tanager Chlorornis riefferii Heard only
Short-billed Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus parvirostris
Gray-hooded Bush-Tanager Cnemoscopus rubrirostris
Black-capped Hemispingus Hemispingus atropileus
Hooded Mountain-Tanager Buthraupis montana
Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus lacrymosus
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus igniventris
Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus somptuosus
Saffron-crowned Tanager Tangara xanthocephala
Flame-faced Tanager Tangara parzudakii
Golden-naped Tanager Tangara ruficervix
Beryl-spangled Tanager Tangara nigroviridis
Silver-backed Tanager Tangara viridicollis
Masked Flowerpiercer Diglossopis cyanea Heard only
Yellow-breasted Brush-Finch Atlapetes latinuchus
Yellow-browed Sparrow Ammodramus aurifrons
Yellow-billed Cacique Amblycercus holosericeus Heard only
Mountain Cacique Cacicus chrysonotus
Olivaceous Siskin Carduelis olivacea


6. Yanacocha Reserve       14th July, 2006

   Yanacocha is a Fundacion Jocotoco reserve quite near Quito. You can contact the foundation office in Quito or just turn up and pay your entry fee to the 2 guardaparques. If you don't have your own transport, you can hire a pick up to take you up. From the centre of Quito, first go to the area of Cotocollao. Find the plaza (or parque central) and look for pick-ups (camionetas) to take you up. The drivers know the site. The ride up there took about 50 minutes along a bad road (which may be improved in the future) and I managed to haggle the driver down to $12. A camioneta leaves about 5:30 in the morning to the community of Yanacocha near the entrance to the reserve. It may be possible to get a ride up this. Alternatively (if you're a glutton for punishment), you could get on a bus towards Nono and get off at the (signed) turning up towards the reserve, a further 10km uphill. Entrance to the reserve costs $5. There are many hummingbird feeders along the main trail of the reserve where you can see many good species well. I failed to see the critically endangered endemic Black-breasted Puffleg which appears to be present only from December to mid-July. May and June being the best months. At the end of the trail is an area opf forest where I saw Stout-billed Cinclodes and some flowerpiercers. Before this is a fork, the left to a large pipe-tunnel under a hill. Apparently on the far side is some nice paramo habitat. To get back down to Quito, you can take the community truck at about 4pm, but beware, it doesn't go on Tuesdays and Fridays. Alternatively you could walk down to the junction with the Nono road from where you have a better chance to get a bus or hitch. On the walk down, I saw Short-eared Owl.
I saw 26 species including 4 lifers

American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Andean Guan Penelope montagnii
Short-eared Owl Asio flammeus
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
Shining Sunbeam Aglaeactis cupripennis
Mountain Velvetbreast Lafresnaya lafresnayi
Buff-winged Starfrontlet Coeligena lutetiae Photographed
Great Sapphirewing Pterophanes cyanopterus Photographed
Sapphire-vented Puffleg Eriocnemis luciani Photographed
Golden-breasted Puffleg Eriocnemis mosquera Photographed
Black-tailed Trainbearer Lesbia victoriae
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina Photographed
Stout-billed Cinclodes Cinclodes excelsior Photographed
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae Heard only
Streaked Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii
Barred Fruiteater Pipreola arcuata Photographed
White-throated Tyrannulet Mecocerculus leucophrys
Brown-bellied Swallow Notiochelidon murina
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Black-chested Mountain-Tanager Buthraupis eximia
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus igniventris
Plain-colored Seedeater Catamenia inornata
Glossy Flowerpiercer Diglossa lafresnayii
Masked Flowerpiercer Diglossopis cyanea
Yellow-breasted Brush-Finch Atlapetes latinuchus
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis


7. Puerto Lopez       16th July, 2006

   Puerto Lopez is a famous place to see Humpback Whales. We went out on a tour boat which leave daily at about 10am and cost $20 per person. Apart from the whales you can also see Blue-footed Boobies and I saw possible Swallow-tailed Gulls. For birds, a trip to Isla de la Plata would probably be more productive. A direct bus leaves for Puerto Lopez from Quito from the Reina del Camino terminal near Puente de las Huambras at 8pm, arriving about 6am. Puerto Lopez has many places to eat and stay (Sol Inn - $4 for domitory, $6 for a single) and also a few places to do internet.
I saw 13 species including 2 lifers

Brown Pelican Pelecanus occidentalis Photographed
Blue-footed Booby Sula nebouxii Photographed
Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus
Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens Photographed
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Introduced species
Croaking Ground-Dove Columbina cruziana
Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris
Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus Outlying islands only
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea
Scrub Blackbird Dives warszewiczi


8. Cajanuma Sector, Podocarpus National Park       21st-23rd July, 2006

   The Cajanuma sector of the Podocarpus National Park, has some fantastic birds of the elfin forest and paramo zones and is easily accessible from Loja. To get there, take one of the many buses from the terminal to Loja towards Vilcabamba and get off at the Cajanuma entrance, which all the bus drivers know. At the gate, you have to pay an entrance fee of $10 (for foreigners) but this is valid for 5 days both here and at the Bombuscaro entrance. From the gate it is about 8km uphill to the visitors centre (about 2,700m) where there is simple accomodation available for just $3 per night. It's a tough 2 hour walk if you have a heavy bag, but I was lucky enough to hitch a ride. Alternatively, you could hire taxi at the terminal in Loja or there maybe one at the entrance. There are solar-powered lights and a nice fireplace where you can make a fire to cook on at night. The friendly park guards may lend you a pan to cook with if you don't have your own. Bring you own food and a warm sleeping bag as it gets cold at night.
   There are several trails leading from the house. On leads uphill to the right towards Lagunas del Compadre. To reach there requires a several day hike and camping. You can go up the trail for several hours and turn back. Birds seen along here included: Barred Fruiteater, Paramo Seedeater, Pale-footed Swallow and Chusquea Tapaculo. Spectacled Bears may also be possible up in the Paramo. To the left from the house, a trail leads up to 2 loops: the Oso de Anteojos and Bosque Nublado trails. On the former I saw Flame-throated Sunangel, Buff-winged Starfrontlet and Collared Inca, and the latter Ash-coloured Tapaculo, White-bellied Woodstar and White-banded Tyrannulet. This whole lower area is good for mountain-tanagers too. The trail continues up through elfin forest (White-throated Hawk, Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager and and Chestnut-naped Antpitta) to a mirador at about 3,100m (near where Chestnut-bellied Cotinga has been seen in the past) and up along a steep ridge where I saw Masked Mountain-Tanager and Black-headed Hemispingus. The road below the house is best for Bearded Guan and I heard Stygian Owl here at night.
I saw 61 species including 7 lifers

Great Egret Ardea alba
White-throated Hawk Buteo albigula Photographed
Bearded Guan Penelope barbata Vulnerable Photographed Recorded
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Stygian Owl Asio stygius Heard only. Recorded
Green Hermit Phaethornis guy
Gray-chinned Hermit Phaethornis griseogularis Possibly seen
Chestnut-breasted Coronet Boissonneaua matthewsii
Collared Inca Coeligena torquata
Buff-winged Starfrontlet Coeligena lutetiae
Rainbow Starfrontlet Coeligena iris
Little (Flame-throated) Sunangel Heliangelus micraster
Green-tailed Trainbearer Lesbia nuna
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina
Mountain Avocetbill Opisthoprora euryptera
White-bellied Woodstar Chaetocercus mulsant
Bar-bellied Woodpecker Veniliornis nigriceps
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker Piculus rivolii
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae Heard only
Many-striped Canastero Asthenes flammulata
Streaked Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii Recorded
Chestnut-naped Antpitta Grallaria nuchalis Heard only. Recorded
Rufous Antpitta Grallaria rufula Recorded
Ash-colored Tapaculo Myornis senilis Heard only
Unicolored Tapaculo Scytalopus unicolor Heard only. Recorded
Paramo Tapaculo Scytalopus canus Possibly heard
Chusquea Tapaculo Scytalopus parkeri Endemic Heard only. Recorded
Red-crested Cotinga Ampelion rubrocristata
Barred Fruiteater Pipreola arcuata Photographed. Recorded
White-banded Tyrannulet Mecocerculus stictopterus
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca rufipectoralis
Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant Myiotheretes striaticollis
Smoky Bush-Tyrant Myiotheretes fumigatus
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Pale-footed Swallow Notiochelidon flavipes Recorded
Fasciated Wren Campylorhynchus fasciatus
Rufous Wren Cinnycerthia unirufa Photographed
Mountain Wren Troglodytes solstitialis
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys Recorded
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater Recorded
Spectacled Redstart Myioborus melanocephalus
Black-crested Warbler Basileuterus nigrocristatus Recorded
Blue-backed Conebill Conirostrum sitticolor
Black-capped Hemispingus Hemispingus atropileus Photographed Recorded
Black-headed Hemispingus Hemispingus verticalis
Masked Mountain-Tanager Buthraupis wetmorei Vulnerable Photographed
Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus lacrymosus
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus igniventris
Golden-crowned Tanager Iridosornis rufivertex
Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager Dubusia taeniata
Paramo Seedeater Catamenia homochroa
White-sided Flowerpiercer Diglossa albilatera
Glossy Flowerpiercer Diglossa lafresnayii Photographed Recorded
Masked Flowerpiercer Diglossopis cyanea Recorded
Pale-naped Brush-Finch Atlapetes pallidinucha
Yellow-breasted Brush-Finch Atlapetes latinuchus
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch Buarremon brunneinucha
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica


9. Bombuscaro Sector, Podocarpus National Park       24th-26th July, 2006

   This is another excellent area of the Podocarpus National Park that has a very different avifauna. The same ticket as the Cajanuma sector can be used but only for 5 days in total. The birds here are a little more difficult to see and therefore I recommend 3 nights here and 2 at Cajanuma. You could spend easily spend a lot more time at both, though. The sector is accessed from the large town of Zaruma, where you could stay, although it's better to stay within the park. Buses to Zaruma leave Loja regularly and take about 2 hours. From the terminal in Zaruma, take the signed turning to Bombuscaro, the name of the river and an area of Zaruma. To the entrance of the park, it is about 6km, and from there about another 1km through nice forest to the visitors centre. You may encounter the guard at the entrance or at the centre where you can buy or show your ticket and arrange accomodation. There is a cabin with 2 twin rooms (also $3 per person per night) and a bathroom. The beds are OK but there are no electric lights. Bring candles and a sleeping bag. There were very few mosquitos when I was there. There are more visitors here and you may find the rooms full. There are also places to camp. There is no visitor's kitchen, but the guards maybe kind enough to leave you the key for theirs. Bring your own food.
   There are many good birding spots around the park. From the car park to the visitor's centre, there is a nice stretch of forest. One of the guards said White-necked Parakeets feed in some trees here and even come to eat clay/earth in an exposed area next to a curving handrail. Just before the centre, you cross a small stream where I saw Black Phoebe and White-capped Dipper. Near the centre, there is an orchid garden from where a trail leads up to a beautiful waterfall (Cascada La Poderosa) and a Mirador. The later is a tough climb and if you go right up to the top, there is an interesting patch of forest where I saw Thrush-like Schiffornis, Barred Becard and Sharpbill (99% certain). Also from the Orquideria, there is a loop trail called 'Uraquita Verde' (Green Jay). This is excellent and I saw many different birds each time I went up. Another group saw Amazonian Umbrellabird and Coppery-chested Jacamar here, although I didn't. A long trail called 'Sendero Hilgueros' also leads along the river. Along the first section, I saw Grey Tinamou in the early morning and Ecuadorian Piedtail singing. Look out for gaps in the trees with a view of the river, where I saw Fasciated Tiger-Heron. The trail leads a fork (look out for Highland Motmot), the right continuing on the same side (15 minutes along which I heard White-necked Parakeets) and the left crosses a foot bridge and loops back along the other side. The trail on the other side follows the river downstream to another bridge which you can cross and walk back to the HQ. The whole loop is said to take 3 hours. On the other side of the river I saw Andean Cock-of-the-Rock (there maybe a lek near the upper bridge), Crimson-bellied Woodpecker (in a clearing about half way along) and Coppery-chested Jacamar in secondary forest 5 minutes up from the lower bridge. From the lower bridge, look out for Torrent Duck and Fasciated Tiger-Heron. I saw 83 species including 12 lifers

Gray Tinamou Tinamus tao Photographed
Fasciated Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma fasciatum
Torrent Duck Merganetta armata Photographed
Speckled Chachalaca Ortalis guttata
Rufous-breasted Wood-Quail Odontophorus speciosus Heard only
Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea Possibly seen
Gray-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla
Ruddy Quail-Dove Geotrygon montana
White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus Recorded
White-necked Parakeet Pyrrhura albipectus Endemic Vulnerable Heard only. Recorded
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Roraima (Foothill) Screech-Owl Megascops roraimae Heard only
Gray-rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris
White-whiskered Hermit Phaethornis yaruqui
Fork-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania furcata
Ecuadorian Piedtail Phlogophilus hemileucurus Near-threatened Photographed Recorded
Collared Trogon Trogon collaris Photographed
Highland Motmot Momotus aequatorialis Photographed
Coppery-chested Jacamar Galbula pastazae Endemic Vulnerable
Chestnut-tipped Toucanet Aulacorhynchus derbianus Photographed Recorded
Lafresnaye's Piculet Picumnus lafresnayi
Smoky-brown Woodpecker Veniliornis fumigatus Recorded
Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus
Crimson-bellied Woodpecker Campephilus haematogaster Photographed
Guayaquil Woodpecker Campephilus gayaquilensis Near-threatened
Spotted Barbtail Premnoplex brunnescens
Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans
Montane Foliage-gleaner Anabacerthia striaticollis
Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner Philydor rufus
Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus
Olive-backed Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus triangularis
Lined Antshrike Thamnophilus tenuepunctatus Photographed
Sharpbill Oxyruncus cristatus
Andean Cock-of-the-rock Rupicola peruviana
Thrush-like Schiffornis Schiffornis turdinus Recorded
Olive-striped Flycatcher Mionectes olivaceus
Slaty-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon superciliaris
Spectacled Bristle-Tyrant Pogonotriccus orbitalis Possibly seen
Ecuadorian Tyrannulet Phylloscartes gualaquizae
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant Lophotriccus pileatus Photographed Recorded
Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum
Fulvous-breasted Flatbill Rhynchocyclus fulvipectus Possibly seen
Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens Recorded
Ornate Flycatcher Myiotriccus ornatus Photographed
Orange-crested Flycatcher Myiophobus phoenicomitra
Tawny-breasted Flycatcher Myiobius villosus
Cliff Flycatcher Hirundinea ferruginea
Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans
Golden-crowned Flycatcher Myiodynastes chrysocephalus
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Barred Becard Pachyramphus versicolor
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
White-banded Swallow Atticora fasciata
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
White-capped Dipper Cinclus leucocephalus
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
White-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucosticta Recorded
Glossy-black Thrush Turdus serranus
White-throated Thrush Turdus assimilis
Green Jay Cyanocorax yncas
Brown-capped Vireo Vireo leucophrys
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Buff-rumped Warbler Basileuterus fulvicauda
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus flavigularis Recorded
Ashy-throated Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus canigularis
White-lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus
Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo
Bronze-green Euphonia Euphonia mesochrysa
Orange-bellied Euphonia Euphonia xanthogaster
Orange-eared Tanager Chlorochrysa calliparaea
Paradise Tanager Tangara chilensis
Golden Tanager Tangara arthus
Golden-eared Tanager Tangara chrysotis
Spotted Tanager Tangara punctata
Bay-headed Tanager Tangara gyrola Recorded
Blue-necked Tanager Tangara cyanicollis
Yellow-bellied Seedeater Sporophila nigricollis
Orange-billed Sparrow Arremon aurantiirostris
Yellow-browed Sparrow Ammodramus aurifrons
Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus
Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus


10. Buenaventura       27th-28th July, 2006

   This is another Jocotoco reserve with a number of threatened tumbesian endemics and other birds of interest. It is easily accessed by public transport and the nearby town of Piñas makes a good base. There is also accomodation in the reserve but it is expensive. Piñas is a medium-sized town with several places to stay, eat and an internet cafe. I stayed at the apartment in Piñas used by biologists working in the reserve and was lucky enough to be accompanied by Mary Elizabeth Juiñes meryj_bio@yahoo.com into the field on one day to look for the Endemic El Oro Parakeet (which we only heard). Piñas can be reached by direct buses from Loja or Cuenca. From Piñas, there are half hourly buses that leave to Machala from a place called 'Cinco esquinas' and pass by the reserve. There are several places you can enter.
   The nearest place to Piñas only takes 20 minutes and is called 'La Urna' (the bus costing less than a dollar), a big blue, concrete shrine which all the drivers know. From here, you can walk along a gravel track which starts at about 1000m in altitude and goes down to the Umbrellabird Lodge at about 500m(?). The walk takes several hours but there is excellent birding. I saw several Rufous-headed Chachalacas at the start of the road. About halfway down, there is a trail or to the right called 'Sendero de los Pericos' which can be a good place to look for the El Oro Parakeet in the morning. I only heard them here, but saw Bronze-olive Pygmy-Tyrant, Blue-black Grosbeak and Pale-mandibled Aracari. Before the lodge, there is a trail off to the left to forest with a reliable Long-wattled Umbrellbird lek. You really need to be there first thing in the morning though. Below the lodge is supposedly a reliable site for the Grey-backed Hawk which I also failed to see here.
   Another entrance is at 'Jardin de los Colibries' further down from the Urna. There are many feeders here and you can see many species of hummingbird. There are also feeders around the lodge with most of the same species. By the 'Jardin' there is also a house belonging to a guardaparque named Valdamiro. You might be asked to pay here ($15 for foreigners), and if not you can pay when you get up to the lodge, about 40 minutes walk from the road. The 3rd entrance is by a place called Selva Alegre. This is a big swimming pool complex. This is the furthest to the lodge and is better to access in a car. At a curve in the road, just before a big sign reading 'Ben Olewine', is where I saw Ochraceous Attila. My second day, I accompanied Mery Elizabeth to a place on the other side of the main road called Cresta Polo, not normally accessible to the public, which is one of the best spots to see the parakeets. This season is apparently difficult to see the species. In January though, they are apparently guaranteed.
I saw 118 species including 12 lifers

Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway
Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans Photographed Recorded
Rufous-headed Chachalaca Ortalis erythroptera Vulnerable
Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata Seen nearby
Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea Heard only
Ruddy Pigeon Patagioenas subvinacea
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Red-masked Parakeet Aratinga erythrogenys Near-threatened
El Oro Parakeet Pyrrhura orcesi Endemic Endangered Heard only
Pacific Parrotlet Forpus coelestis
Bronze-winged Parrot Pionus chalcopterus Photographed Recorded
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Gray-rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris Photographed
White-whiskered Hermit Phaethornis yaruqui Photographed
(Baron's Hermit) Phaethornis baroni Photographed
White-necked Jacobin Florisuga mellivora Photographed
Brown Violet-ear Colibri delphinae Photographed Recorded
Green Thorntail Discosura conversii Photographed
(Emerald-bellied Woodnymph) Thalurania hypochlora Photographed
Violet-bellied Hummingbird Damophila julie Photographed
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl Photographed
Andean Emerald Agyrtria franciae Photographed
Fawn-breasted Brilliant Heliodoxa rubinoides
Green-crowned Brilliant Heliodoxa jacula
Brown Inca Coeligena wilsoni
Gorgeted Sunangel Heliangelus strophianus Possibly seen
Booted Racket-tail Ocreatus underwoodii
Violet-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus coelestis
Purple-crowned Fairy Heliothryx barroti
Collared Trogon Trogon collaris
Masked Trogon Trogon personatus
Broad-billed Motmot Electron platyrhynchum Heard only. Recorded
Crimson-rumped Toucanet Aulacorhynchus haematopygus
(Pale-mandibled Aracari) Pteroglossus erythropygius
Choco Toucan Ramphastos brevis
(Chestnut-mandibled Toucan) Ramphastos swainsonii
Olivaceous Piculet Picumnus olivaceus
Smoky-brown Woodpecker Veniliornis fumigatus
Guayaquil Woodpecker Campephilus gayaquilensis Near-threatened. Photographed
(Pacific Hornero) Furnarius leucopus
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae
Slaty Spinetail Synallaxis brachyura
Spotted Barbtail Premnoplex brunnescens
Plain Xenops Xenops minutus Recorded
Plain-brown Woodcreeper Dendrocincla fuliginosa
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper Glyphorynchus spirurus Photographed
Spotted Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus erythropygius Photographed
Great Antshrike Taraba major
Uniform Antshrike Thamnophilus unicolor
Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis
Slaty Antwren Myrmotherula schisticolor
Immaculate Antbird Myrmeciza immaculata Recorded
Rufous-breasted Antthrush Formicarius rufipectus Heard only
Golden-winged Manakin Masius chrysopterus
Mouse-colored Tyrannulet Phaeomyias murina
Yellow Tyrannulet Capsiempis flaveola
Olive-striped Flycatcher Mionectes olivaceus
Slaty-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon superciliaris
Bronze-olive Pygmy-Tyrant Pseudotriccus pelzelni Recorded
Rufous-winged Tyrannulet Mecocerculus calopterus
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant Lophotriccus pileatus
Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum
Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher Myiobius sulphureipygius
Tropical Pewee Contopus cinereus Recorded
Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans
Ochraceous Attila Attila torridus Vulnerable. Photographed
Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Black-and-white Becard Pachyramphus albogriseus
One-colored Becard Pachyramphus homochrous Photographed
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Fasciated Wren Campylorhynchus fasciatus
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys
Song Wren Cyphorhinus phaeocephalus
Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides
Plumbeous-backed Thrush Turdus reevei
Ecuadorian Thrush Turdus maculirostris
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi
Masked Yellowthroat Geothlypis aequinoctialis
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Gray-and-gold Warbler Basileuterus fraseri
Three-banded Warbler Basileuterus trifasciatus
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Common Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus ophthalmicus
White-shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus luctuosus
Flame-rumped Tanager Ramphocelus flammigerus
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Fawn-breasted Tanager Pipraeidea melanonota
Thick-billed Euphonia Euphonia laniirostris
Orange-bellied Euphonia Euphonia xanthogaster
Golden Tanager Tangara arthus
Silver-throated Tanager Tangara icterocephala
Bay-headed Tanager Tangara gyrola
Golden-naped Tanager Tangara ruficervix
Beryl-spangled Tanager Tangara nigroviridis
Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza Photographed
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Variable Seedeater Sporophila corvina
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
Tricolored Brush-Finch Atlapetes tricolor
Orange-billed Sparrow Arremon aurantiirostris
Black-striped Sparrow Arremonops conirostris
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Streaked Saltator Saltator striatipectus
Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus
Black-winged Saltator Saltator atripennis
Blue-black Grosbeak Cyanocompsa cyanoides
Scrub Blackbird Dives warszewiczi
Yellow-bellied Siskin Carduelis xanthogastra
Lesser Goldfinch Carduelis psaltria


11. Yunguilla       29th July, 2006

   This is a private reserve run by the Jocotoco Foundation set up to preserve the only location for the endangered endemic Pale-headed Brush-Finch. It is best to arrange your visit with them either in Quito of if you visit one of their other reserves. This reserve is a little more difficult to get to but not too bad. The nearest town is called La Union and is between the larger towns of Machala (2 hours) and Cuenca (1 hour) and lies near the main road between them. There is a play to stay in town called Sol y Agua, or you could stay in the larger town of Santa Isabel, just 10 minutes away. What I did was camp at the house of Enrique Calle, the guardaparque (park guard). To get here asked to be let off the bus at El Y (ye) de La Union. This is a junction next to a couple of restaurants that also has pickup trucks (camionetas) that you can pay to take you to his Enrique’s house (which they all know). The price for the 15 minute ride is $3 but sometimes they try and charge you more. In the morning, Enrique can take you up to the reserve to show you the brush-finches. We found it a little difficult to find them but Enrique said he’s never failed to show them to a group. There is a trail leading down which is good for them, but we saw them climbing up a steep trail once you get to the fence at the end. We scrambled up and along a trail where we saw a pair. They tend to keep hidden but can be persuaded to pop their heads up with a little bit of playback. The price to enter the reserve is $15 which tough a little pricey goes towards the conservation of the species and is the only way you will see it.
I saw 21 species including 2 lifers

Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis
Purple-collared Woodstar Myrtis fanny
(Pacific Hornero) Furnarius leucopus Photographed
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta Grallaria ruficapilla Heard only
Mouse-colored Tyrannulet Phaeomyias murina
Rufous-crowned Tody-Tyrant Poecilotriccus ruficeps
Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer Heard only
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco
Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis
Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus
Russet-crowned Warbler Basileuterus coronatus
Orange-headed Tanager Thlypopsis sordida
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Pale-headed Brush-Finch Atlapetes pallidiceps Endemic Crit endangered Photographed Rec.
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-bellied Grosbeak Pheucticus chrysogaster


12. Las Cajas National Park       30th July, 2006

   This beautiful area is popular among tourists for many of the stunning hikes in the area. I visited to look for the endangered endemic Violet-throated Hummingbird. The area can be visited on a day trip from the large city of Cuenca where many bus leave from. I took a bus at 6:25 on a Sunday morning.towards Naranjal which left from a roundabout at the end of Calle Gran Colombia, to where you can catch a city bus. Buses towards Guayaquil via Molletur also pass buy the park. To see the hummingbird, you don’t actually have to enter the par, get off at the turning for La Virgen de Cajas which is well signed from the road and takes 30-40 minutes by bus ($1). There is a toll barrier a bit further on so if you get to that, you’ve gone too far and have to walk back a bit. At the turning, instead of walking towards the ‘santuario’, take a gravel path the other way (on your left heading towards Guayaquil). About 200m along this path is some good scrub with many yellow flowers which the metaltails like. Several interesting birds can also be seen in this spot.
I saw 21 species including 3 lifers

Puna Hawk Buteo poecilochrous
Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis
Andean Gull Larus serranus
Shining Sunbeam Aglaeactis cupripennis Photographed
Violet-throated Metaltail Metallura baroni Endemic Endangered Photographed Recorded?
Bar-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes fuscus Photographed
Andean Tit-Spinetail Leptasthenura andicola
Mouse-colored Thistletail Schizoeaca griseomurina Photographed
Tawny Antpitta Grallaria quitensis Heard only
Red-crested Cotinga Ampelion rubrocristata Photographed
Tufted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes parulus
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca fumicolor
Brown-bellied Swallow Notiochelidon murina
Paramo Pipit Anthus bogotensis
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
Spectacled Redstart Myioborus melanocephalus
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus igniventris
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch Phrygilus unicolor
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch Phrygilus plebejus
Plain-colored Seedeater Catamenia inornata
Yellow-breasted Brush-Finch Atlapetes latinuchus Photographed


13. Ayampe       31st July, 2006

   I used Puerto Lopez as a base when visiting Ayampe but there are also a couple of places to stay in this small coastal town. Puerto Lopez is just 25 minutes away by regular bus (50c) though so getting here early in the morning is not a problem. I stayed at Hostal Sol Inn in PL for $6 for a single room. There are also many restaurants and also internet here although it is expensive and a little slow. There are several birding areas within walking distance of the town. The first is some ponds and kind of an estuary at the rive mouth on the Ayampe side. Here I saw several species of water birds including Stilt Sandpiper, Short-billed Dowitcher and Great Blue Heron. Another birding site is inland along the river. Again on the Ayampe side follow the road along a bit where it forks, the left staying on the valley floor and crossing the small river several times and the right climbing a little up the right side of the valley. Along the valley floor I saw Masked Water-Tyrant, asked Yellow-throat and heard Watkin’s Antpitta whereas on the right trail I heard Litlle Tinamou and saw Violaceous Trogon, Red-rumped Woodpecker and Western Slaty-Antshrike. The last site I visited was along the main road towards Montañita. The road climbs up and at the top before it starts going down again, I saw Guira Tanager, Yellow-tufted Dacnis and Sooty-headed Tyrannlet. Follow the road down, and about 2km or half an hour’s walk from Ayamp, you reach a right tunr in the road. This spot is excellent and I saw Grey-backed Hawk, White-bearded Manakin, Black-cheeked Woodpecker and Bay wren in forest by the road. Back in Ayampe, there are bushes with many red flowers, behind these, towards the ocean is a big tree in which I saw Pearl Kite.
I saw 103 species including 9 lifers

Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui Heard only
Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus
Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens Photographed
Great Blue Heron Ardea herodias Photographed
Great Egret Ardea alba
Snowy Egret Egretta thula Photographed
Striated Heron Butorides striata Photographed
Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
Yellow-crowned Night-Heron Nyctanassa violacea Photographed
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Photographed
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Photographed
Pearl Kite Gampsonyx swainsonii Photographed
Gray-backed Hawk Leucopternis occidentalis Endangered Photographed Recorded
Harris's Hawk Parabuteo unicinctus Photographed
Gray Hawk Asturina nitida Photographed Recorded
Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans Heard only
Rufous-headed Chachalaca Ortalis erythroptera Vulnerable Possibly heard
White-throated Crake Laterallus albigularis Heard only
Wilson's Plover Charadrius wilsonia Photographed Recorded
Collared Plover Charadrius collaris
Short-billed Dowitcher Limnodromus griseus
Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularia Photographed
Willet Catoptrophorus semipalmatus Photographed
Semipalmated Sandpiper Calidris pusilla Photographed Recorded
Least Sandpiper Calidris minutilla Photographed
Stilt Sandpiper Calidris himantopus
Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica Photographed Recorded
Ecuadorian Ground-Dove Columbina buckleyi
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Ochre-bellied Dove Leptotila ochraceiventris Vulnerable Heard only
Pacific Parrotlet Forpus coelestis
Red-billed Parrot Pionus sordidus
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana Recorded
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani Photographed
Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris Photographed
Peruvian Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium peruanum Heard only
Gray-rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris
(Baron's Hermit) Phaethornis baroni
Violaceous Trogon Trogon violaceus Photographed
(Ecuadorian Trogon) Trogon mesurus
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquatus
Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana Recorded
(Chestnut-mandibled Toucan) Ramphastos swainsonii Recorded
Black-cheeked Woodpecker Melanerpes pucherani
Scarlet-backed Woodpecker Veniliornis callonotus
Red-rumped Woodpecker Veniliornis kirkii
Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus Possibly heard. Recorded
(Pacific Hornero) Furnarius leucopus
Slaty Spinetail Synallaxis brachyura Heard only
Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus
Great Antshrike Taraba major
Collared Antshrike Sakesphorus bernardi Possibly heard
Western Slaty-Antshrike Thamnophilus atrinucha Photographed
Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis Recorded
Slaty Antwren Myrmotherula schisticolor
Watkins's Antpitta Grallaria watkinsi Heard only. Recorded
White-bearded Manakin Manacus manacus Recorded
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster
Sooty-headed Tyrannulet Phyllomyias griseiceps
Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant Euscarthmus meloryphus
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant Lophotriccus pileatus Heard only
Bran-colored Flycatcher Myiophobus fasciatus
Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher Myiobius sulphureipygius
Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus Photographed
Masked Water-Tyrant Fluvicola nengeta Photographed Recorded
Sooty-crowned Flycatcher Myiarchus phaeocephalus Photographed
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua Recorded
Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
Baird's Flycatcher Myiodynastes bairdii
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Photographed
Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Fasciated Wren Campylorhynchus fasciatus
Bay Wren Thryothorus nigricapillus
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Scaly-breasted Wren Microcerculus marginatus Heard only
Long-tailed Mockingbird Mimus longicaudatus
Ecuadorian Thrush Turdus maculirostris
Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus
Lesser Greenlet Hylophilus decurtatus
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi
Masked Yellowthroat Geothlypis aequinoctialis
Gray-and-gold Warbler Basileuterus fraseri
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Guira Tanager Hemithraupis guira
White-shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus luctuosus
Flame-rumped Tanager Ramphocelus flammigerus
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Thick-billed Euphonia Euphonia laniirostris Recorded
(Yellow-tufted Dacnis) Dacnis egregia Photographed
Crimson-breasted Finch Rhodospingus cruentus
Variable Seedeater Sporophila corvina
Orange-billed Sparrow Arremon aurantiirostris
Black-striped Sparrow Arremonops conirostris Photographed
Streaked Saltator Saltator striatipectus Photographed
Golden-bellied Grosbeak Pheucticus chrysogaster
Scrub Blackbird Dives warszewiczi
Yellow-tailed Oriole Icterus mesomelas
Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela


14. Mangaloma Reserve, Near Los Bancos       2nd-5th August, 2006

   This is a private reserve only accesible with prior permission from the owners or Agustina Arcos agustinaarcos@hotmail.com or Alejandro Solano jhalezion@gmail.com, from Miraflores, near Mindo. It is best to cntact her at least several days before you intend to visit as she doesn't check her email everyday. The reserve is located near the town of Los Bancos, further down the same road from Mindo. It can be accessed directly from Quito. From there, the turnoff for the reserve is another few kms. and from the turnoff to the reserve entrance. Ask Agustina for more details. It's best to have your own transport although you could walk from the main road, which would probably take a couple of hours. There is basic but comfortable accomodation (no electricity), with beds, shower, kitchen, etc. It is currently $5 to enter the reserve for the day and $10 per day if you stay (bring your own food), but these prices might soon change.
   A worker lives at a house inside the entrance gate of the reserve and he can show visitors the trail system. On from his house, the grass track ends in an old, broken-down house that is now just a platform. It is excellent birding from here especially if you have a scope. Look out for Black Hawk-Eagle, Black-tipped Cotinga, Little Cuckoo and 4 species of swifts, including the rare Spot-fronted. Before this house, on the right, is an area with palms where the Choco subspecies of the Maroon-tailed Parakeet feeds on palm fruit. A trail leads from here, through open habitat (Choco Woodpecker, Pacific Antwren and Green Thistletail) and finally enters forest. The forest has excellent birding although several days are needed to see many of the species.
   I missed Baudo Guan and Banded Ground-Cuckoo which have bothe been seen here. There are 2 loop trails worth exploring, and near then end of the main trail there is another trail leading steeply up to the highest area where it is possible to see Long-wattled Umbrellabirds. I spent 4 days birding here and only saw them on 1 day. It was sunny and 2 males were calling away at 9am. This spot was also good for White-whiskered Hermit, Purple-crowned Fairy and Slate-throated Gnatcatcher. A final area to check would be some open habitat with patchy forest in the other direction from the platform. Here I saw Orange-fronted Barbet and Grey-and-gold Tanager. I saw 151 species including 25 lifers

Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Heard only
Short-tailed Hawk Buteo brachyurus
Black Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus
Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans Photographed
Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis
Rufous-fronted Wood-Quail Odontophorus erythrops
Ruddy Pigeon Patagioenas subvinacea
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Pallid Dove Leptotila pallida
Maroon-tailed Parakeet Pyrrhura melanura Photographed
Pacific Parrotlet Forpus coelestis
Bronze-winged Parrot Pionus chalcopterus
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Little Cuckoo Piaya minuta Photographed
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris
Crested Owl Lophostrix cristata Photographed
Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis Heard only
Scrub Nightjar Caprimulgus anthonyi
Spot-fronted Swift Cypseloides cherriei Data deficient
Chestnut-collared Swift Streptoprocne rutila
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
Gray-rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris
White-whiskered Hermit Phaethornis yaruqui
Stripe-throated Hermit Phaethornis striigularis
Green Thorntail Discosura conversii
Green-crowned Woodnymph Thalurania fannyi
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl
Purple-crowned Fairy Heliothryx barroti
White-tailed Trogon Trogon viridis Heard only
Violaceous Trogon Trogon violaceus Recorded
Collared Trogon Trogon collaris
Black-throated Trogon Trogon rufus Photographed
(Choco Trogon) Trogon comptus Photographed
Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana
Broad-billed Motmot Electron platyrhynchum
White-whiskered Puffbird Malacoptila panamensis Photographed
Orange-fronted Barbet Capito squamatus Near-threatened
(Pale-mandibled Aracari) Pteroglossus erythropygius Recorded
(Stripe-billed Aracari) Pteroglossus sanguineus
(Chestnut-mandibled Toucan) Ramphastos swainsonii
Choco Toucan Ramphastos brevis
Olivaceous Piculet Picumnus olivaceus
Scarlet-backed Woodpecker Veniliornis callonotus
Choco Woodpecker Veniliornis chocoensis
Golden-olive Woodpecker Piculus rubiginosus
Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus
Guayaquil Woodpecker Campephilus gayaquilensis Near-threatened
(Pacific Hornero) Furnarius leucopus
Slaty Spinetail Synallaxis brachyura
Red-faced Spinetail Cranioleuca erythrops
Plain Xenops Xenops minutus
Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans
Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner Anabacerthia variegaticeps
Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner Philydor rufus
Tawny-throated Leaftosser Sclerurus mexicanus
Plain-brown Woodcreeper Dendrocincla fuliginosa Photographed
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper Glyphorynchus spirurus
Northern Barred-Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes sanctithomae
Spotted Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus erythropygius
Streak-headed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes souleyetii
Western Slaty-Antshrike Thamnophilus atrinucha Heard only
Spot-crowned Antvireo Dysithamnus puncticeps
Pacific Antwren Myrmotherula pacifica
Checker-throated Antwren Myrmotherula fulviventris Recorded
White-flanked Antwren Myrmotherula axillaris
Slaty Antwren Myrmotherula schisticolor
Dot-winged Antwren Microrhopias quixensis
Dusky Antbird Cercomacra tyrannina Heard only
Chestnut-backed Antbird Myrmeciza exsul
Immaculate Antbird Myrmeciza immaculata
Bicolored Antbird Gymnopithys leucaspis
Spotted Antbird Hylophylax naevioides Heard only
Black-headed Antthrush Formicarius nigricapillus Heard only. Recorded
Black-tipped Cotinga Carpodectes hopkei
Purple-throated Fruitcrow Querula purpurata
Long-wattled Umbrellabird Cephalopterus penduliger Vulnerable Photographed Recorded
White-bearded Manakin Manacus manacus
Golden-winged Manakin Masius chrysopterus
Thrush-like Schiffornis Schiffornis turdinus Recorded
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum
Yellow Tyrannulet Capsiempis flaveola
Olive-striped Flycatcher Mionectes olivaceus
Slaty-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon superciliaris Recorded
Sooty-headed Tyrannulet Phyllomyias griseiceps
Golden-faced Tyrannulet Zimmerius chrysops
Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant Myiornis atricapillus
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant Lophotriccus pileatus Recorded
Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum
Pacific Flatbill Rhynchocyclus pacificus
White-throated Spadebill Platyrinchus mystaceus Recorded
Ornate Flycatcher Myiotriccus ornatus
Bran-colored Flycatcher Myiophobus fasciatus
Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer
Rusty-margined Flycatcher Myiozetetes cayanensis
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus
Snowy-throated Kingbird Tyrannus niveigularis Photographed
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Cinnamon Becard Pachyramphus cinnamomeus Photographed
Black-and-white Becard Pachyramphus albogriseus Photographed
One-colored Becard Pachyramphus homochrous
Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata
Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
White-thighed Swallow Neochelidon tibialis Photographed
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Band-backed Wren Campylorhynchus zonatus
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Scaly-breasted Wren Microcerculus marginatus
Ecuadorian Thrush Turdus maculirostris
Tawny-faced Gnatwren Microbates cinereiventris
Slate-throated Gnatcatcher Polioptila schistaceigula
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus
Lesser Greenlet Hylophilus decurtatus
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi
Olive-crowned Yellowthroat Geothlypis semiflava
Choco Warbler Basileuterus chlorophrys
Buff-rumped Warbler Basileuterus fulvicauda
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus flavigularis
Scarlet-browed Tanager Heterospingus xanthopygius
White-shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus luctuosus
White-lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus
Flame-rumped Tanager Ramphocelus flammigerus
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum
Orange-crowned Euphonia Euphonia saturata Possibly seen
Thick-billed Euphonia Euphonia laniirostris
Orange-bellied Euphonia Euphonia xanthogaster
Gray-and-gold Tanager Tangara palmeri
Silver-throated Tanager Tangara icterocephala
Bay-headed Tanager Tangara gyrola
Blue-necked Tanager Tangara cyanicollis
(Yellow-tufted Dacnis) Dacnis egregia
Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza
Purple Honeycreeper Cyanerpes caeruleus
Swallow-Tanager Tersina viridis Photographed
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
Variable Seedeater Sporophila corvina
Thick-billed Seed-Finch Oryzoborus funereus
Orange-billed Sparrow Arremon aurantiirostris
Black-striped Sparrow Arremonops conirostris
Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus
Slate-colored Grosbeak Saltator grossus Heard only
Black-winged Saltator Saltator atripennis
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
Scarlet-rumped Cacique Cacicus uropygialis
Yellow-bellied Siskin Carduelis xanthogastra Photographed


15. Reserva Paz de las Aves       6th August, 2006

   This is a really incredible site rapidly becoming famous as the best place to see local antpittas well. A local man, Angel Paz, has been feeding worms to antpittas on his property so sometime and several individuals have become very tame. You can see Giant, Moustached and Yellow-breasted Antpittas at close range and it's easy to get some great photos. He also has a Andean Cock-of-the-Rock lek on his property which you can see if you get there at 5:30am. Other good birds are Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan, Toucan Barbet and Beautiful Jay. The first 2 were nesting in the same tree. He charges $10 for the tour and it is easily worth it whatever your budget as you may not see many of these elsewhere. He also includes a home cooked breakfast. To get to his property, drive further towards Mindo from the Miraflores turnoff and look out for a sign on the left reading 'Reserva Paz de las Aves'. Turn here and follow the the main track for several kms until you see another sign for his house. He has a large number of visitors every day and it is a good idea to call (593-2 2116243 or 2116026) and let him know you're coming, at least the day before if not earlier.
I saw 21 species including 5 lifers

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Tawny-bellied Hermit Phaethornis syrmatophorus
Sparkling Violet-ear Colibri coruscans
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl
Andean Emerald Agyrtria franciae
Fawn-breasted Brilliant Heliodoxa rubinoides Photographed
Empress Brilliant Heliodoxa imperatrix Photographed
Buff-tailed Coronet Boissonneaua flavescens Photographed
Velvet-purple Coronet Boissonneaua jardini Photographed
Brown Inca Coeligena wilsoni
Purple-throated Woodstar Calliphlox mitchellii Photographed
Golden-headed Quetzal Pharomachrus auriceps Heard only
Toucan Barbet Semnornis ramphastinus Near-threatened Photographed
Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan Andigena laminirostris Near-threatened Photographed
Strong-billed Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes promeropirhynchus Heard only
Giant Antpitta Grallaria gigantea Endangered Photographed
Moustached Antpitta Grallaria alleni Endangered Photographed
Yellow-breasted Antpitta Grallaria flavotincta Photographed
Andean Cock-of-the-rock Rupicola peruviana Heard only
Golden-winged Manakin Masius chrysopterus Heard only
Beautiful Jay Cyanolyca pulchra Near-threatened