Sites visited

1. Patapampa, near Arequipa       15th February, 2006

   Patapampa is easily reached from Arequipa by bus. There are several bus companies going to Chivay. Reyna and Andalucia both have services leaving the main terminal at 6:30 in the morning. I took the Andalucia bus (11 Soles - overcharged?) which arrived in Patapampa in less than 3 hours. Patapampa is the highest point on the Chivay road at 4800m. Do not overexert yourself at this altitude. Stupidly I ran to get the bus back, missed it and was left hyperventilating. I managed to hitch back to a junction from where more buses pass. Before Patapampa, you pass a big red INRENA sign on the right and shortly after a sign for Mirador Los Andes (also on the right). This is a good place to get off. There is a spectacular view of several volcanoes from here. Walk back down the road towards Arequipa and after about 1km some 'bofedales' (cusion-plant bogs) will come into view. go round the bend and look for the first stream going down. This passes through a small bofedal where I found a Diademed Sandpiper-Plover pair with a chick less than 50m from the road. There is another larger bofedal further along on the right. Here too I saw Grey-breasted Seedsnipe and White-fronted Ground-Tyrant. There seem several good wetland areas on the way worth exploring if you have your own transport.

I saw 15 species including 1 lifer

Speckled Teal	Anas flavirostris	Seen on the way to Patapampa
Crested Duck	Anas specularioides	Seen on the way to Patapampa
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura
Giant Coot	Fulica gigantea	Seen on the way to Patapampa
Diademed Sandpiper-Plover	Phegornis mitchellii	Near-threatened
Andean Gull	Larus serranus	Seen on the way to Patapampa
Puna Miner	Geositta punensis	Seen on the way to Patapampa
Bar-winged Cinclodes	Cinclodes fuscus
Cordilleran Canastero	Asthenes modesta
White-fronted Ground-Tyrant	Muscisaxicola albifrons
Andean Swallow	Haplochelidon andecola
White-throated Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus erythronotus
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus plebejus
White-winged Diuca-Finch	Diuca speculifera
Black Siskin	Carduelis atrata

2. Tumbes Reserved Zone, Tumbes       2nd-6th March, 2006

   This is a fantastic birding location with many threatened and near-threatened species. Permission must first be granted by IBRENA in Tumbes. This was not difficult. Go to their offices at the Ministerio de Agricultura (big green buildings) near the corner of Tarapaca and 28 de Julio. You need to write a 'solicito', or letter asking for permission. They can show you one and you can copy it out there and then. To get to the Tumbes Reserved Zone, you need first to go to the small town of Pampas de Hospital (20km). There are minibuses and colectivos leaving from the south end of the market. From Pampas, take a left at a sign to El Caucho, or ask the way. It is 36km along a gravel road whose condition depends very much on the season. In March, it was washed away and impassable by car. I walked carrying all my food and water. Not recommended. Better would be to hire a local guide and donkeys to carry the bags. The first part of the road was agricultural land, then scrub. The road then goes up into forest. You pass a mirador with a fantastic view. From there on the birding improves. It took me almost 10 hours to walk to El Caucho and 8 hours back.Good birds on the way were Black-and-white Tanager, Grey-breasted Flycatcher, Black-faced Spinetail (about 4 hours walk from El Caucho) and Saffron Siskin (common along the stretch 2-4 hours from El Caucho). There is a police post at El Caucho usually with only 1 cop. The ones I met were very friendly and let me use their dormitory and even cooked me some meals.
   A great birding spot was down from El Caucho to Quebrada Faical about 1km away (where INRENA are building a biological station with accomodation). This section had Pacific Royal Flycatcher, Henna-hooded Foliage-gleaner, Guayaquil Woodpecker and Slaty Becard. Pale-browed Tinamou, Grey-cheeked Parakeet and Ochre-bellied Dove were found (usually just heard) throughout. The Quebrada was too high to cross the first 2 days, but the third I birded the other side along the trail towards Campo Verde. This section had Rufous-headed Chachalaca, Plain-brown Woodcreeper, Tumbes Hummingbird and Thrush-like Schiffornis.

I saw 102 species including 35 lifers

Little Tinamou	Crypturellus soui	Heard only Recorded
Pale-browed Tinamou	Crypturellus transfasciatus	Near-threatened Recorded
Great Egret	Ardea alba	Seen between Tumbes and Pampas de Hospital
Snowy Egret	Egretta thula	Seen between Tumbes and Pampas de Hospital
Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis	Seen between Tumbes and Pampas de Hospital
Black Vulture	Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura
Pearl Kite	Gampsonyx swainsonii
Zone-tailed Hawk	Buteo albonotatus
Crested Caracara	Caracara cheriway
Laughing Falcon	Herpetotheres cachinnans	Photographed
Collared Forest-Falcon	Micrastur semitorquatus	Heard only Recorded
Rufous-headed Chachalaca	Ortalis erythroptera	Vulnerable Probably seen
Black-necked Stilt	Himantopus mexicanus	Seen between Tumbes and Pampas de Hospital
Killdeer	Charadrius vociferus	Seen between Pampas de Hospital and TRZ
Ecuadorian Ground-Dove	Columbina buckleyi	Photographed
Blue Ground-Dove	Claravis pretiosa	Photographed
White-tipped Dove	Leptotila verreauxi
Ochre-bellied Dove	Leptotila ochraceiventris	Vulnerable
Pacific Parrotlet	Forpus coelestis	Seen between Pampas de Hospital and TRZ Photographed
Gray-cheeked Parakeet	Brotogeris pyrrhopterus	Endangered Recorded?
Bronze-winged Parrot	Pionus chalcopterus
Gray-capped Cuckoo	Coccyzus lansbergi
Groove-billed Ani	Crotophaga sulcirostris	Photographed
Spectacled Owl	Pulsatrix perspicillata	Heard only
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl	Glaucidium brasilianum	Possibly seen
Peruvian Pygmy-Owl	Glaucidium peruanum	Heard only
Pauraque	Nyctidromus albicollis
White-collared Swift	Streptoprocne zonaris
Violet-bellied Hummingbird	Damophila julie
Tumbes Hummingbird	Leucippus baeri	Endemic Photographed
Amazilia Hummingbird	Amazilia amazilia	Photographed
Violaceous Trogon	Trogon violaceus	Recorded Photographed
Black-tailed Trogon	Trogon melanurus	Recorded Photographed
Blue-crowned Motmot	Momotus momota	Photographed
Ecuadorian Piculet	Picumnus sclateri	Photographed
Scarlet-backed Woodpecker	Veniliornis callonotus
Lineated Woodpecker	Dryocopus lineatus	Photographed
Guayaquil Woodpecker	Campephilus gayaquilensis	Near-threatened Recorded
Pale-legged Hornero	Furnarius leucopus	Photographed
Black-faced Spinetail	Synallaxis tithys	Endangered Recorded Photographed
Streaked Xenops	Xenops rutilans	Photographed
Henna-hooded Foliage-gleaner	Hylocryptus erythrocephalus	Vulnerable
Plain-brown Woodcreeper	Dendrocincla fuliginosa	Recorded Photographed
Olivaceous Woodcreeper	Sittasomus griseicapillus
Streak-headed Woodcreeper	Lepidocolaptes souleyetii
Red-billed Scythebill	Campylorhamphus trochilirostris
Collared Antshrike	Sakesphorus bernardi	Photographed
Chapman's Antshrike	Thamnophilus zarumae	Possbily heard between Pampas & TRZ
Plain Antvireo	Dysithamnus mentalis	Recorded Photographed
White-backed Fire-eye	Pyriglena leuconota
Elegant Crescent-chest	Melanopareia elegans	Recorded Photographed
Thrush-like Schiffornis	Schiffornis turdinus	Recorded Photographed
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet	Camptostoma obsoletum
Pacific Elaenia	Myiopagis subplacens
Greenish Elaenia	Myiopagis viridicata	Possibly seen Photographed?
Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant	Euscarthmus meloryphus
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant	Lophotriccus pileatus	Recorded Photographed
Common Tody-Flycatcher	Todirostrum cinereum	Photographed
Yellow-olive Flycatcher	Tolmomyias sulphurescens
Pacific Royal-Flycatcher	Onychorhynchus occidentalis	Vulnerable Recorded Photographed
Black-tailed Flycatcher	Myiobius atricaudus
Gray-breasted Flycatcher	Lathrotriccus griseipectus	Vulnerable
Tropical Pewee	Contopus cinereus
Dusky-capped Flycatcher	Myiarchus tuberculifer	Photographed
Sooty-crowned Flycatcher	Myiarchus phaeocephalus
Boat-billed Flycatcher	Megarynchus pitangua
Baird's Flycatcher	Myiodynastes bairdii	Possibly seen in Tumbes
Streaked Flycatcher	Myiodynastes maculatus	Photographed
Snowy-throated Kingbird	Tyrannus niveigularis
Eastern Kingbird	Tyrannus tyrannus	Photographed
Gray-breasted Martin	Progne chalybea	Seen between Tumbes and Pampas de Hospital
Fasciated Wren	Campylorhynchus fasciatus	Photographed
Speckle-breasted Wren	Thryothorus sclateri
Long-tailed Mockingbird	Mimus longicaudatus	Seen between Pampas de Hospital and TRZ
Ecuadorian Thrush	Turdus maculirostris	Photographed
Tropical Gnatcatcher	Polioptila plumbea
White-tailed Jay	Cyanocorax mystacalis	Photographed
Red-eyed Vireo	Vireo olivaceus
Rufous-browed Peppershrike	Cyclarhis gujanensis
Tropical Parula	Parula pitiayumi
Gray-and-gold Warbler	Basileuterus fraseri	Photographed
Black-and-white Tanager	Conothraupis speculigera	Near-threatened Photographed?
Hepatic Tanager	Piranga flava
Lemon-rumped Tanager	Ramphocelus icteronotus	Photographed
Blue-gray Tanager	Thraupis episcopus
Thick-billed Euphonia	Euphonia laniirostris	Photographed
Bay-headed Tanager	Tangara gyrola	Photographed
Blue-black Grassquit	Volatinia jacarina
Variable Seedeater	Sporophila corvina	Photographed
Dull-colored Grassquit	Tiaris obscura	Photographed
Saffron Finch	Sicalis flaveola
Black-capped Sparrow	Arremon abeillei	Photographed
Tumbes Sparrow	Aimophila stolzmanni	Possibly seen
Streaked Saltator	Saltator striatipectus
Golden-bellied Grosbeak	Pheucticus chrysogaster
Peruvian Meadowlark	Sturnella bellicosa
Scrub Blackbird	Dives warszewiczi	Seen between Pampas de Hospital and TRZ
Yellow-tailed Oriole	Icterus mesomelas
White-edged Oriole	Icterus graceannae	Seen between Pampas de Hospital and TRZ Photographed
Yellow-rumped Cacique	Cacicus cela
Saffron Siskin	Carduelis siemiradzkii	Vulnerable Recorded? Photographed

3. Chinguela Ridge, near Sapalache, Piura      9th-12th March, 2006

   The Chinguela Ridge can be birded by first heading to Huancabamba from Piura (8 hours if you're lucky). The road is bad and in the rainy season, traffic is interupted constantly with lanslides and river-crossings. 3 bus companies leave from Piura. I travelled with 'Etipthsac' who leave at 7am and also have night bus leaving at 5pm (S20). Huancabamba has several places to stay, eat and also internet access. I stayed at Danubio for S10. From Huancabamba, colectivos leave for Sapalache (ask from where). This is another 1 hour uphill on a poor road which is also susceptible to landslides in the rainy season. Public transport probably finishes in Sapalache although a couple of minibuses were seen going up and coming back down in the early afternoon. It may be possible to stay at the restaurant in Sapalache if you miss the last colectivo back to Huancabamba at about 5pm or want to get an early start. Several pick-ups travel along this road and it may well be possible to hitch. If not, it is less than 3 hours to the ridge along a fairly new road in good condition leaving from the Sapalache plaza. Paramo Pipit was seen on the way up. I walked up here and camped for 2 nights birding the elfin forest on the other side of the ridge. Habitat destruction appears to be occuring at an alarming rate, especially along the road. Burning whole hillsides appears to be standard practice. At the highest point on the the road, there are several patches of elfin forest that are definately worth exploring. I missed these in the fog on the way up and had no time to explore on the way back. Further on, the road passes through paramo for a while and then elfin forest starts again. An overhead electric wire crosses the road at several points. Where it crosses the 3rd time, there is a path leading down past one of the poles to the left of the road. This leads past the site of an old house where the ground is flat and makes a good camp-ground. In the rainy season, there were plenty of small streams which would seem to provide amply drinking water.
   Any elfin forest from the top down to where the dead trees start is worth birding. The best area I found was an old trail which runs above the road at the top through paramo. Before a right turn down the hill around where the elfin forest starts again, there is a lone tree on the right. Before this on the left of the road are some numbers painted in white on a rock. 386 crossed out and 1282 painted in its place. Just before this is a very small stream coming down. Follow this up and it will get to a bigger trail above. This passes through several good patches of forest. Birds found in this area included Chusquea Tapaculo, several species of mountain-tanager, Rainbow-bearded Thornbill, Chestnut-naped Antpitta, Pale-naped Brush-Finch, Mouse-colored Thistletail and Andean Snipe (also heard displaying at night). General birds of the elfin forest included Glossy Flowerpiercer, Neblina Metaltail, Glowing Puffleg, Rufous-naped Brush-Finch, Black-crested Warbler, Turquoise Jay, etc.
   I also birded the western slope of the ridge approached from a different way. Instead of turning off the road to the plaza in Sapalache, continue straight on to a trout farm (pescaria). Here the road ends but a path continues up. This forks soon and either route leads up and to some remnant forest patches. Birds seen here but not on the eastern side were: Citrine Warbler, Red-crested Cotinga and Rainbow-fronted Starfrontlet. The habitat destruction on this slope is worse and very little remained. At the tree-line on the western side, I flushed a large snipe from paramo which flew into forest. It seemed much more rufous than Andean and could have been one of the rarer species.

I saw 69 species including 19 lifers

Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius
Andean Snipe	Gallinago jamesoni	Photographed
Band-tailed Pigeon	Patagioenas fasciata
Eared Dove	Zenaida auriculata
White-collared Swift	Streptoprocne zonaris
Sparkling Violet-ear	Colibri coruscans
Chestnut-breasted Coronet	Boissonneaua matthewsii
Shining Sunbeam	Aglaeactis cupripennis	Photographed
Mountain Velvetbreast	Lafresnaya lafresnayi	Possibly seen
Collared Inca	Coeligena torquata	Photographed
Rainbow Starfrontlet	Coeligena iris
Glowing Puffleg	Eriocnemis vestitus
Tyrian Metaltail	Metallura tyrianthina	Photographed
Neblina Metaltail	Metallura odomae	Near-threatened Photographed
Rainbow-bearded Thornbill	Chalcostigma herrani	Photographed
Mouse-colored Thistletail	Schizoeaca griseomurina	Photographed
Many-striped Canastero	Asthenes flammulata	Photographed Recorded
Pearled Treerunner	Margarornis squamiger
Flammulated Treehunter	Thripadectes flammulatus	Possibly heard
Chestnut-naped Antpitta	Grallaria nuchalis	Heard only
Chusquea Tapaculo	Scytalopus parkeri	Photographed Recorded
Red-crested Cotinga	Ampelion rubrocristata
White-crested Elaenia	Elaenia albiceps
Sierran Elaenia	Elaenia pallatangae	Possibly seen
White-throated Tyrannulet	Mecocerculus leucophrys
White-banded Tyrannulet	Mecocerculus stictopterus	Possibly seen
Tufted Tit-Tyrant	Anairetes parulus	Possibly seen
Cinnamon Flycatcher	Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Cliff Flycatcher	Hirundinea ferruginea
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca rufipectoralis
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca fumicolor	Photographed
White-browed Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca leucophrys	Possibly seen
Tropical Kingbird	Tyrannus melancholicus
Gray-breasted Martin	Progne chalybea	Seen in Huancabamba
Blue-and-white Swallow	Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Brown-bellied Swallow	Notiochelidon murina
Paramo Pipit	Anthus bogotensis
Rufous Wren	Cinnycerthia unirufa
Sedge Wren	Cistothorus platensis
Great Thrush	Turdus fuscater
Turquoise Jay	Cyanolyca turcosa	Photographed Recorded
Slate-throated Redstart	Myioborus miniatus
Spectacled Redstart	Myioborus melanocephalus
Citrine Warbler	Basileuterus luteoviridis
Black-crested Warbler	Basileuterus nigrocristatus
Russet-crowned Warbler	Basileuterus coronatus
Blue-backed Conebill	Conirostrum sitticolor
Capped Conebill	Conirostrum albifrons
Black-capped Hemispingus	Hemispingus atropileus	Photographed
Blue-gray Tanager	Thraupis episcopus
Blue-capped Tanager	Thraupis cyanocephala	Photographed
Hooded Mountain-Tanager	Buthraupis montana	Photographed
Black-chested Mountain-Tanager	Buthraupis eximia	Photographed
Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager	Anisognathus lacrymosus
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager	Anisognathus igniventris
Golden-crowned Tanager	Iridosornis rufivertex
Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager	Dubusia taeniata	Photographed
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus plebejus	Photographed
Plain-colored Seedeater	Catamenia inornata
Glossy Flowerpiercer	Diglossa lafresnayii	Photographed
Black Flowerpiercer	Diglossa humeralis	Possibly seen
Masked Flowerpiercer	Diglossopis cyanea
Pale-naped Brush-Finch	Atlapetes pallidinucha	Photographed
Yellow-breasted Brush-Finch	Atlapetes latinuchus	Photographed
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-bellied Grosbeak	Pheucticus chrysogaster
Peruvian Meadowlark	Sturnella bellicosa	Seen near Sapalache
Hooded Siskin	Carduelis magellanica	Seen near Sapalache

4. Puente Fierro, near Canchaque, Piura      13th-15th March, 2006

   Canchaque is apparently 77km from the turn-off on the Pan-americana and usually 4 hours by bus. The route below Canchaque was blocked by landslides and buses where passing a different way through El Faique. Canchaque is a small town but has a couple of places to stay and eat near the plaza but no internet. I stayed at Hostal Don Felix (S10). Chestnut-collared Swallows nested under the rooves of town buildings. A spot on the way up to Huancabamba good for birding is Puente Fierro, a disused iron bridge. This is apparently 85km from the turn-off, 8km above Canchaque. This took 2 and a half hours walking up hill (via Palabla) but only an hour and a half using a short cut path (good for Black-cowled Saltator) leading up from the mirador in Canchaque over-looking the church. The area around the bridge has lots of bamboo and Masked Saltator and Grey-headed Antbird have been seen here. I saw neither. Another spot mentioned was 4km and a couple of bends further on. I found the best spot was about 500m past the bridge overlooking a slope downhill. Here I saw some mixed tanager flocks including Fawn-breasted, Rufous-chested Tanagers and Piura Hemispingus. Between where the short-cut path comes out and the bridge I saw Rufous-necked Foliage-gleaner. White-winged (Paynter's) Brush-finch and Three-banded Warbler were common all the way down to Canchaque. Whilst waiting for a landslide to be cleared near the top of the road (about 2800m), I saw White-browed Spinetail with chicks just left the nest (nest and chicks photographed). At a river-crossing on the way back to Piura, 3 Comb Ducks were seen flying over.

I saw 53 species including 8 lifers

Great Egret	Ardea alba	Seen between Canchaque & Piura
Snowy Egret	Egretta thula	Seen between Canchaque & Piura
Comb Duck	Sarkidiornis melanotos	Seen between Canchaque & Piura
Black Vulture	Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura
Savanna Hawk	Buteogallus meridionalis	Seen between Canchaque & Piura
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius
Band-tailed Pigeon	Patagioenas fasciata
Pacific Parrotlet	Forpus coelestis	Seen between Canchaque & Piura
Groove-billed Ani	Crotophaga sulcirostris	Seen between Canchaque & Piura
Peruvian Pygmy-Owl	Glaucidium peruanum	Seen between Canchaque & Piura
Sparkling Violet-ear	Colibri coruscans	Heard below the ridge above Puente Fierro (2,800m)
Amazilia Hummingbird	Amazilia amazilia
Shining Sunbeam	Aglaeactis cupripennis	Seen below the ridge above Puente Fierro (2,800m) Photographed
Ringed Kingfisher	Ceryle torquatus	Seen between Canchaque & Piura
Pale-legged Hornero	Furnarius leucopus
Azara's Spinetail	Synallaxis azarae	Recorded
White-browed Spinetail	Hellmayrea gularis	Seen below the ridge above Puente Fierro (2,800m) Photographed
Rufous-necked Foliage-gleaner	Syndactyla ruficollis	Vulnerable
Chestnut-crowned Antpitta	Grallaria ruficapilla	Heard only Recorded
Elegant Crescent-chest	Melanopareia elegans
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet	Camptostoma obsoletum
Tropical Pewee	Contopus cinereus
Dusky-capped Flycatcher	Myiarchus tuberculifer
Boat-billed Flycatcher	Megarynchus pitangua
Tropical Kingbird	Tyrannus melancholicus
Gray-breasted Martin	Progne chalybea	Seen in Palambla Photographed
Blue-and-white Swallow	Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Chestnut-collared Swallow	Petrochelidon rufocollaris
Fasciated Wren	Campylorhynchus fasciatus
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon
Long-tailed Mockingbird	Mimus longicaudatus	Seen between Canchaque & Piura
Andean Solitaire	Myadestes ralloides	Possibly heard
Great Thrush	Turdus fuscater
Rufous-browed Peppershrike	Cyclarhis gujanensis	Heard only
Masked Yellowthroat	Geothlypis aequinoctialis
Slate-throated Redstart	Myioborus miniatus	Photographed
Three-banded Warbler	Basileuterus trifasciatus	Photographed Recorded
Rufous-chested Tanager	Thlypopsis ornata
Hepatic Tanager	Piranga flava
Blue-gray Tanager	Thraupis episcopus
Fawn-breasted Tanager	Pipraeidea melanonota	Photographed
Thick-billed Euphonia	Euphonia laniirostris
Piura Hemispingus	Hemispingus piurae	Photographed
Dull-colored Grassquit	Tiaris obscura
Rusty Flowerpiercer	Diglossa sittoides
Saffron Finch	Sicalis flaveola	Seen between Canchaque & Piura
Yellow-breasted Brush-Finch	Atlapetes latinuchus
White-winged Brush-Finch	Atlapetes leucopterus	Photographed
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
Black-cowled Saltator	Saltator nigriceps	Recorded
Golden-bellied Grosbeak	Pheucticus chrysogaster
Scrub Blackbird	Dives warszewiczi	Recorded

5. El Tocto, near Olmos, Lambayeque       17th-18th March, 2006

   El Tocto is a site for the critically endangered White-winged Guan. It is fairly easily accessed from Olmos if you have your transport and requires a long, hot walk if you don't. Olmos is a medium-sized town with a few places to stay, eat and also has internet. I stayed at 'El Remanso' for 20s. Colectivos leave Chiclayo for Olmos, take an hour and a half and cost 9s. The Tarapoto bus from Piura can also drop you off on the highway. To visit El Tocto or Limon to see wild guans, it's best first to call in at the captive breeding centre at km103 for more information. The turning for El Tocto is at km105, 2km past the centre. There is also another centre with captive cracids of many different species after the turn that maybe worth a look. To get to the turn, you can take a colectivo or moto with others (2s) or privately (5s). From the turn it is 16km to El Tocto. The road is not in such bad condition but vehicles rarely pass along it and hitching would be difficult.
   Some good birds can be seen along here including Peruvian Thick-knee, Short-tailed Woodstar, Red-masked Parakeet, Parrot-billed Seeteater, Tumbes Sparrow and Cinereous Finch. After about 10km you have to cross a river several times. Here I saw Ringed & Green Kingfishers and Comb Duck. After the last crossing I saw Crimson-breasted Finch. It takes about 4 hours to get to El Tocto. The people here are very friendly and there are a couple of shops selling soft drinks and cookies. It is a very good idea to get a local to show you the spot where the guans are. I didn't do this and hence didn't see the guans. The description of how to get there in 'Valqui' mentions the house of Mr Murante but apparently he died over 10 years ago and his house no longer stands. Everyone knows the spot though. I took a wrong turn on the way up and ended up in a different place but still had lots of good birds such as: Plumbeus-backed Thrush, White-headed Brush-Finch, Elegant Crescentchest, Pale-browed Tinamou, Ochre-bellied Dove and Black-and-white Tanager.

I saw 71 species including 10 lifers

Pale-browed Tinamou	Crypturellus transfasciatus	Near-threatened
Comb Duck	Sarkidiornis melanotos	Photographed
Black Vulture	Coragyps atratus	Photographed
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura
Great Black-Hawk	Buteogallus urubitinga
Harris's Hawk	Parabuteo unicinctus
Peruvian Thick-knee	Burhinus superciliaris
Rock Pigeon	Columba livia	Introduced species
Eared Dove	Zenaida auriculata
Pacific Dove	Zenaida meloda
Croaking Ground-Dove	Columbina cruziana	Photographed
Blue Ground-Dove	Claravis pretiosa
White-tipped Dove	Leptotila verreauxi	Photographed
Ochre-bellied Dove	Leptotila ochraceiventris	Vulnerable Heard
Red-masked Parakeet	Aratinga erythrogenys	Near-threatened Photographed
Pacific Parrotlet	Forpus coelestis
Groove-billed Ani	Crotophaga sulcirostris
Peruvian Pygmy-Owl	Glaucidium peruanum
Pauraque	Nyctidromus albicollis
Amazilia Hummingbird	Amazilia amazilia
Long-billed Starthroat	Heliomaster longirostris
Short-tailed Woodstar	Myrmia micrura	Photographed
Ringed Kingfisher	Ceryle torquatus
Green Kingfisher	Chloroceryle americana
Blue-crowned Motmot	Momotus momota
Scarlet-backed Woodpecker	Veniliornis callonotus	Photographed
Pale-legged Hornero	Furnarius leucopus
Necklaced Spinetail	Synallaxis stictothorax	Possibly seen
Streak-headed Woodcreeper	Lepidocolaptes souleyetii
Collared Antshrike	Sakesphorus bernardi
Elegant Crescent-chest	Melanopareia elegans	Photographed
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet	Camptostoma obsoletum
Mouse-colored Tyrannulet	Phaeomyias murina
Gray-and-white Tyrannulet	Pseudelaenia leucospodia
Rufous-winged Tyrannulet	Mecocerculus calopterus
Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant	Euscarthmus meloryphus
Common Tody-Flycatcher	Todirostrum cinereum
Yellow-olive Flycatcher	Tolmomyias sulphurescens
Vermilion Flycatcher	Pyrocephalus rubinus	Photographed
Short-tailed Field-Tyrant	Muscigralla brevicauda	Possibly seen
Baird's Flycatcher	Myiodynastes bairdii	Photographed
Gray-breasted Martin	Progne chalybea
Southern Rough-winged Swallow	Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Fasciated Wren	Campylorhynchus fasciatus
Speckle-breasted Wren	Thryothorus sclateri	Heard
Superciliated Wren	Thryothorus superciliaris
Long-tailed Mockingbird	Mimus longicaudatus	Photographed
Plumbeous-backed Thrush	Turdus reevei	Photographed
Tropical Gnatcatcher	Polioptila plumbea	Photographed
White-tailed Jay	Cyanocorax mystacalis
Tropical Parula	Parula pitiayumi
Gray-and-gold Warbler	Basileuterus fraseri
Bananaquit	Coereba flaveola
Black-and-white Tanager	Conothraupis speculigera	Near-threatened
Blue-gray Tanager	Thraupis episcopus
Thick-billed Euphonia	Euphonia laniirostris
Crimson-breasted Finch	Rhodospingus cruentus
Cinereous Finch	Piezorhina cinerea	Endemic
Parrot-billed Seedeater	Sporophila peruviana	Photographed
Saffron Finch	Sicalis flaveola
White-winged Brush-Finch	Atlapetes leucopterus	Photographed
White-headed Brush-Finch	Atlapetes albiceps
Black-capped Sparrow	Arremon abeillei
Tumbes Sparrow	Aimophila stolzmanni	Photographed
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-bellied Grosbeak	Pheucticus chrysogaster
Peruvian Meadowlark	Sturnella bellicosa	Photographed
Shiny Cowbird	Molothrus bonariensis
Yellow-tailed Oriole	Icterus mesomelas
White-edged Oriole	Icterus graceannae
Hooded Siskin	Carduelis magellanica	Possibly seen

6. Batan Grande, near Chiclayo, Lambayeque      19th March, 2006

   I was lucky enough to visit this site with Fernando Angulo from Cracidae Peru. This is apparently the best place to see the endangered Peruvian Plantcutter. They are common around the 'Arbol Milenario' and easy to find in the morning by following their calls. We also saw Rufous Flycatcher, Cinereus Finch, Mouse-coloured (Tumbesian) Tyrannelet and Streaked Saltator here. Further along the road is a sign for Mirador Las Salinas which is a very dry area with sparser trees. This is a good area for the rare Tumbes Swallow. We also maybe saw Common Miner (identification difficulties). We also checked a rocky hillside nearby where we saw Short-tailed Field-Tyrant and Band-tailed Sierra Finch. The latter, a probable first sighting for the species in the area.

I saw 49 species including 3 lifers

Great Egret	Ardea alba
Snowy Egret	Egretta thula	Seen between Batan Grande and Chiclayo
Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis	Seen between Batan Grande and Chiclayo
Black Vulture	Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura
Savanna Hawk	Buteogallus meridionalis	Seen between Batan Grande and Chiclayo
Harris's Hawk	Parabuteo unicinctus
Red-backed Hawk	Buteo polyosoma	Photographed
Crested Caracara	Caracara cheriway	Seen between Batan Grande and Chiclayo
Black-necked Stilt	Himantopus mexicanus
Franklin's Gull	Larus pipixcan	Seen between Batan Grande and Chiclayo
Eared Dove	Zenaida auriculata
Pacific Dove	Zenaida meloda
Croaking Ground-Dove	Columbina cruziana
White-tipped Dove	Leptotila verreauxi
Groove-billed Ani	Crotophaga sulcirostris
Striped Cuckoo	Tapera naevia	Heard
Lesser Nighthawk	Chordeiles acutipennis	Photographed
Amazilia Hummingbird	Amazilia amazilia
Scarlet-backed Woodpecker	Veniliornis callonotus
Golden-olive Woodpecker	Piculus rubiginosus
Coastal Miner	Geositta peruviana
Pale-legged Hornero	Furnarius leucopus
Necklaced Spinetail	Synallaxis stictothorax
Collared Antshrike	Sakesphorus bernardi
Peruvian Plantcutter	Phytotoma raimondii	Endemic Endangered Photographed
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet	Camptostoma obsoletum	Heard
Mouse-colored (Tumbesian) Tyrannulet	Phaeomyias murina	Photographed
Gray-and-white Tyrannulet	Pseudelaenia leucospodia
Common Tody-Flycatcher	Todirostrum cinereum
Vermilion Flycatcher	Pyrocephalus rubinus
Short-tailed Field-Tyrant	Muscigralla brevicauda
Rufous Flycatcher	Myiarchus semirufus	Endemic
Baird's Flycatcher	Myiodynastes bairdii
Snowy-throated Kingbird	Tyrannus niveigularis
Gray-breasted Martin	Progne chalybea	Seen between Batan Grande and Chiclayo
Tumbes Swallow	Tachycineta stolzmanni	Endemic Photographed
Fasciated Wren	Campylorhynchus fasciatus	Heard
Superciliated Wren	Thryothorus superciliaris	Photographed
Long-tailed Mockingbird	Mimus longicaudatus
White-tailed Jay	Cyanocorax mystacalis	Heard
Bananaquit	Coereba flaveola
Blue-gray Tanager	Thraupis episcopus
Band-tailed Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus alaudinus	Photographed
Cinereous Finch	Piezorhina cinerea	Endemic Photographed
Saffron Finch	Sicalis flaveola
Streaked Saltator	Saltator striatipectus
Scrub Blackbird	Dives warszewiczi
White-edged Oriole	Icterus graceannae

7. Quebrada Frejolillo, near Limon, Lambayeque      21st-22nd March, 2006

   This is a safer site for the White-winged Guans. I coordinated my visit with Asociacion Cracidae Peru and was lucky enough to get a lift to Limon as they had business there. In Limon I got a local guide (Lino) to show me up to the site less than an hour's walk away. We followed the trail up towards the valley then along the dry riverbed. After a big cliff on the left, there was a left turning that takes you up to the site. It is a raised piece of land between 2 dry streams. Previously it was used to grow maize and other crops but it seems to be being left to regenerate now. I stayed the night there and heard several owls and potoos at night. The guans were relatively easy to see despite it being the most difficult time of year due to all the leaves on the trees. I saw one bird perched in a tree on the way up around 8am, a pair in the late afternoon, and a few pairs early the next morning. The guans rustle their wings before first light and also call quite a bit between 6-7am. They are silent for most of the day after that but get a bit vocal again in the afternoon. Other good birds seen in this area were Ochre-bellied Dove, Black-and-white Seedeater (very common and vocal), Pale-browed Tinamou, White-headed Brush-Finch, Black-and-white Becard and King Vulture. It seems that a truck goes to Olmos some or most days leaving at 1 or 2 in the afternoon. It is possible to catch a ride in this for 5s. Unfortunately most of it's cargo is wood from mesquite trees in the area.

I saw 57 species including 5 lifers

Pale-browed Tinamou	Crypturellus transfasciatus	Near-threatened
Black Vulture	Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura
King Vulture	Sarcoramphus papa	Photographed
Red-backed Hawk	Buteo polyosoma
White-winged Guan	Penelope albipennis	Endemic Critically endangered Photographed
Rock Pigeon	Columba livia	Introduced species
Eared Dove	Zenaida auriculata
Pacific Dove	Zenaida meloda
Croaking Ground-Dove	Columbina cruziana
White-tipped Dove	Leptotila verreauxi
Ochre-bellied Dove	Leptotila ochraceiventris	Vulnerable Photographed
Red-masked Parakeet	Aratinga erythrogenys	Near-threatened
Pacific Parrotlet	Forpus coelestis
Groove-billed Ani	Crotophaga sulcirostris
West Peruvian Screech-Owl	Megascops roboratus	Heard
Peruvian Pygmy-Owl	Glaucidium peruanum	Heard Recorded
Common Potoo	Nyctibius griseus	Heard
Pauraque	Nyctidromus albicollis	Heard
Scrub Nightjar	Caprimulgus anthonyi	Possibly seen
Amazilia Hummingbird	Amazilia amazilia
Black-tailed Trogon	Trogon melanurus	Heard
Blue-crowned Motmot	Momotus momota	Possibly heard
Scarlet-backed Woodpecker	Veniliornis callonotus
Lineated Woodpecker	Dryocopus lineatus
Guayaquil Woodpecker	Campephilus gayaquilensis	Near-threatened Possibly seen
Pale-legged Hornero	Furnarius leucopus
Collared Antshrike	Sakesphorus bernardi	Photographed
Elegant Crescent-chest	Melanopareia elegans	Heard
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet	Camptostoma obsoletum
Mouse-colored Tyrannulet	Phaeomyias murina
Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant	Euscarthmus meloryphus
Vermilion Flycatcher	Pyrocephalus rubinus
Short-tailed Field-Tyrant	Muscigralla brevicauda
Sooty-crowned Flycatcher	Myiarchus phaeocephalus
Baird's Flycatcher	Myiodynastes bairdii
Streaked Flycatcher	Myiodynastes maculatus
Black-and-white Becard	Pachyramphus albogriseus
Chestnut-collared Swallow	Petrochelidon rufocollaris
Speckle-breasted Wren	Thryothorus sclateri
Superciliated Wren	Thryothorus superciliaris
Long-tailed Mockingbird	Mimus longicaudatus
Plumbeous-backed Thrush	Turdus reevei	Recorded
White-tailed Jay	Cyanocorax mystacalis
Masked Yellowthroat	Geothlypis aequinoctialis
Black-and-white Tanager	Conothraupis speculigera	Near-threatened Recorded
Blue-gray Tanager	Thraupis episcopus
Thick-billed Euphonia	Euphonia laniirostris
Blue-black Grassquit	Volatinia jacarina	Seen near Limon
Parrot-billed Seedeater	Sporophila peruviana
Saffron Finch	Sicalis flaveola
White-headed Brush-Finch	Atlapetes albiceps	Photographed
Tumbes Sparrow	Aimophila stolzmanni
Golden-bellied Grosbeak	Pheucticus chrysogaster
Peruvian Meadowlark	Sturnella bellicosa
Shiny Cowbird	Molothrus bonariensis
White-edged Oriole	Icterus graceannae

8. Sinsicap, La Libertad       23rd-24th March, 2006

   Sinsicap is easily reached by public transport from Lima. Buses leave from Horizonte bus company on Vallejo and America Sur at 5:45am and at about 2pm. The ride is about 2 and a half hours and cost me 12 soles (overcharged) on the way there and just 6 soles on the way back. It is a small town but Elmer, the owner of 'Mi Rosita' and 'Sinsicapino' restaurants, has a very basic room to rent (10 soles per person) and can provide meals. Bring a sleeping bag. The road above (Red-crested Cotinga, Curve-billed Tinamou and Giant Hummingbird) and below town can be birded but by far the best area is that described by Valqui's book for the endangered Russet-bellied Spinetail. From town, take the road back towards Trujillo, over the bridge and pass a couple of buildings on your right and some smelly chicken coups to your left. After that there is a big, white, concrete sign on the right with 'Bienvenida' written on one side and 'Feliz Viaje' on the other. At that point, there is a good path going up the hill to the left. After a couple of minutes there is a fork. Go to the right and follow the path to the top of the hill where there is a small shrine. The path continues downhill then flattens out and after 10-15 minutes you get to a view point over the valley to your left. The path continues on along the ridge but turn left here, down the hill. Soon there will be a house on your right then some eucalyptus trees. After about 10 minutes you get to a point where the path goes round a small valley. This is the best spot I found for the Russet-bellied Spinetail which seemed to me to be common here and nowhere else. I also saw Bronze-tailed Comet here. The path down from the top was excellent for other hummers including Sparkling Violet-ear, Purple-collared Woodstar and the new race of Speckled Hummingbird. 5 minutes further on is a rushing stream and a steap-sided gorge which is definately worth exploring. Green-tailed Trainbearer, Rainbow Starfrontlet, Black-necked Woodpecker and Curve-billed Tinamou were seen near here. Bay-crowned Brush-Finch was common in the whole area.

I saw 35 species including 6 lifers

Curve-billed Tinamou	Nothoprocta curvirostris	Possibly seen
Black Vulture	Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius	Photographed
White-tipped Dove	Leptotila verreauxi	Heard
Peruvian Pygmy-Owl	Glaucidium peruanum	Heard
White-tipped Swift	Aeronautes montivagus
Sparkling Violet-ear	Colibri coruscans	Photographed
Speckled Hummingbird	Adelomyia melanogenys
Rainbow Starfrontlet	Coeligena iris
Giant Hummingbird	Patagona gigas
Green-tailed Trainbearer	Lesbia nuna
Bronze-tailed Comet	Polyonymus caroli	Endemic Possibly seen
Purple-collared Woodstar	Myrtis fanny	Photographed
Black-necked Woodpecker	Colaptes atricollis	Endemic Photographed
Russet-bellied Spinetail	Synallaxis zimmeri	Endemic Endangered
Elegant Crescent-chest	Melanopareia elegans	Heard
Red-crested Cotinga	Ampelion rubrocristata	Photographed
White-crested Elaenia	Elaenia albiceps
Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant	Anairetes flavirostris
Tropical Kingbird	Tyrannus melancholicus
Blue-and-white Swallow	Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Fasciated Wren	Campylorhynchus fasciatus
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon
Great Thrush	Turdus fuscater
Slate-throated Redstart	Myioborus miniatus
Hepatic Tanager	Piranga flava
Blue-and-yellow Tanager	Thraupis bonariensis
Mourning Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus fruticeti	Photographed
Band-tailed Seedeater	Catamenia analis
Bay-crowned Brush-Finch	Atlapetes seebohmi	Photographed
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-bellied Grosbeak	Pheucticus chrysogaster
Scrub Blackbird	Dives warszewiczi
Hooded Siskin	Carduelis magellanica

9. Pueblo Libre, Ancash       25th March, 2006

   Pueblo Libre is a spot for the 'Ancash' Pale-tailed Spinetail. The directions in Valqui are quite sufficient to find it. I stayed in Yungay where there are several hostals and restaurants. I stayed in Hostal Yungay (15s). Colectivos pass the plaza for Caraz 12km away. After 7.5km is the turn off for Pueblo Libre at a place called Puente Grande (2s). Cross the bridge and check the scrub on the right side straight afterwards. I saw Giant Hummingbird and Golden-billed Saltator here. From there it is 2km along the road to the town of Pueblo Libre through agricultural land with Blue-black Grassquit, Drab Seedeater and White-collared Swift. The road winds up through the town and a short distance after the very small plaza (Hooded Siskin and Greenish Yellow-Finch) there is a gravel road to the right. Valqui says go 2.5km along this road to the best spot for the canastero but I found them in scrub on a hillside in a small, dry valley less than 1km along. The road continues through dry scrub with some areas of cactus over a river. This area had Band-tailed Seedeater, Band-tailed Sierra-Finch and Collared Warbling-Finch.

I saw 31 species including 3 lifers

Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura
Rock Pigeon	Columba livia	Introduced species Seen in Yungay
Eared Dove	Zenaida auriculata
Croaking Ground-Dove	Columbina cruziana	Photographed
Striped Cuckoo	Tapera naevia	Possibly heard
White-collared Swift	Streptoprocne zonaris
Sparkling Violet-ear	Colibri coruscans
Spot-throated Hummingbird	Leucippus taczanowskii	Endemic Photographed
Giant Hummingbird	Patagona gigas	Photographed
Purple-collared Woodstar	Myrtis fanny
Pale-tailed Canastero	Asthenes huancavelicae	Endemic Vulnerable
White-crested Elaenia	Elaenia albiceps
Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant	Anairetes flavirostris
Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant	Euscarthmus meloryphus	Possibly seen
Vermilion Flycatcher	Pyrocephalus rubinus
White-browed Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca leucophrys
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon	Photographed
Chiguanco Thrush	Turdus chiguanco	Photographed
Cinereous Conebill	Conirostrum cinereum
Blue-and-yellow Tanager	Thraupis bonariensis	Possibly seen
Band-tailed Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus alaudinus
Collared Warbling-Finch	Poospiza hispaniolensis
Blue-black Grassquit	Volatinia jacarina	Photographed
Drab Seedeater	Sporophila simplex
Band-tailed Seedeater	Catamenia analis
Greenish Yellow-Finch	Sicalis olivascens
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-billed Saltator	Saltator aurantiirostris
Peruvian Meadowlark	Sturnella bellicosa
Scrub Blackbird	Dives warszewiczi
Hooded Siskin	Carduelis magellanica	Photographed

10. Lagunas Llanganuco, Huascaran NP, Ancash       26th-27th March, 2006

   This stunning area of 2 emerald green lakes is within the Huascaran National Park and easily accessed from Yungay. Combis leave from opposite the 'Comisaria' in Yungay at 8am but colectivos may leave earlier if there are passengers (8s). You could also hire a taxi there to take you up earlier. You'll have lots of offers. You must pay the entrance fee (5s) for a day or for staying in the park (65s). The latter seems the same for what ever period of time. There are several spots you can bird in the park. I got dropped off at the 1st lake (Laguna Chinancocha) where there is a trail (Sendero Chinancocha) that goes along the edge of the lake through stunning Polylepis forest and loops up a hill and back to the start. This trail had Andean Flicker, Baron's Spinetail, Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant and Giant Conebill. Andean Duck, Puna Teal and Black-crowned Night-Heron were seen on or by the lake. The Maria Josefa trail leads from the same spot (that has some camping facilities) down the valley and rejoins the road. This trail had Rufous-eared Brush-Finch, Tit-like Dacnis, Plain-tailed Warbling-Finch, Citrine Warbler and Giant Hummingbird. From the point it rejoins to the guard post had Red-crested Cotinga, Black Metaltail, Black-throated Flowerpiercer and Jelski's Chat Tyrant. I couldn't find the supposed trail accross from the post but explored a bit and found Ancash Tapaculo. I also saw Red-backed Hawk and Andean Swift flying over. On the way to Abra Portachelo, I saw Andean Goose, Andean Coot and Thick-billed Siskin around the second lake.

I saw 40 species including 9 lifers

Black-crowned Night-Heron	Nycticorax nycticorax
Andean Goose	Chloephaga melanoptera
Crested Duck	Anas specularioides
Puna Teal	Anas puna	Photographed
Andean Duck	Oxyura ferruginea	Photographed
Red-backed Hawk	Buteo polyosoma	Photographed
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius	Photographed
Slate-colored Coot	Fulica ardesiaca
Andean Swift	Aeronautes andecolus
Sparkling Violet-ear	Colibri coruscans
Shining Sunbeam	Aglaeactis cupripennis
Giant Hummingbird	Patagona gigas
Black Metaltail	Metallura phoebe	Endemic Photographed
Andean Flicker	Colaptes rupicola
Bar-winged Cinclodes	Cinclodes fuscus	Photographed
Baron's Spinetail	Cranioleuca baroni	Endemic Photographed
Canyon Canastero	Asthenes pudibunda	Endemic
Stripe-headed Antpitta	Grallaria andicola	Possibly heard
Ancash Tapaculo	Scytalopus affinis	Endemic
Red-crested Cotinga	Ampelion rubrocristata	Photographed
Jelski's Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca jelskii	Possibly seen
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca rufipectoralis	Photographed
Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant	Agriornis montana
Blue-and-white Swallow	Notiochelidon cyanoleuca	Seen between Yungay and Llanganuco
Brown-bellied Swallow	Notiochelidon murina
Chiguanco Thrush	Turdus chiguanco
Great Thrush	Turdus fuscater	Photographed
Citrine Warbler	Basileuterus luteoviridis
Cinereous Conebill	Conirostrum cinereum
Giant Conebill	Oreomanes fraseri	Near-threatened Photographed
Tit-like Dacnis	Xenodacnis parina	Photographed Recorded
Peruvian Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus punensis	Photographed
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus plebejus	Photographed
Plain-tailed Warbling-Finch	Poospiza alticola	Endemic Endangered
Plain-colored Seedeater	Catamenia inornata	Photographed
Black-throated Flowerpiercer	Diglossa brunneiventris
Greenish Yellow-Finch	Sicalis olivascens	Photographed
Rufous-eared Brush-Finch	Atlapetes rufigenis	Endemic Photographed
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis	Photographed
Thick-billed Siskin	Carduelis crassirostris

11. Abra Portachualo, Huascaran NP, Ancash       27th March, 2006

   This site is also within the Huascaran National Park but takes longer to get to. Take a combi from Yungay towards Yanama which leave round the corner from the Llanganuco ones at 7:30. After the 2nd lake, the road winds up a very steep slope to the pass (Abra Portachuela) at (roughly) km 45 and down the other side. Following the directions in Valqui, I got off at 10km further down near the first patches of Polylepis. Before this, the road passes 3 small lakes and the paramo here had Plain-crowned Ground-Tyrant, Many-striped Canastero and Plain-breasted Earthcreeper. At km55, cut accross the grass towards a valley to your right (facing downhill). You will see the lush Polylepis in the valley as you get closer. I walked up the valley along the edge of the forest scanning the tops of the trees. I found White-cheeked Cotinga fairly easily by checking bunches of red infloresces where it seemed to be feeding on berries. Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant was also found easily in this spot. Back at the road, walk another 2km down the road to km57 and check the scrub on the steep bank to your right (next to the road). This was a good spot for Plain-tailed Warbling-Finch. Tit-like Dacnis was also common here. The journey took almost 2 and a half hours in a 'combi' arriving at 10:30. The same vehicle goes back at 2:30-3pm and costs 10s each way. This only leaves 4 hours to look around but should be sufficient.

I saw 22 species including 3 lifers

Crested Duck	Anas specularioides
Shining Sunbeam	Aglaeactis cupripennis	Photographed
Black Metaltail	Metallura phoebe	Endemic
Andean Flicker	Colaptes rupicola	Photographed
Plain-breasted Earthcreeper	Upucerthia jelskii	Photographed
Bar-winged Cinclodes	Cinclodes fuscus
White-winged Cinclodes	Cinclodes atacamensis	Possibly seen
Many-striped Canastero	Asthenes flammulata
White-cheeked Cotinga	Zaratornis stresemanni	Endemic Vulnerable Photographed
Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant	Anairetes alpinus	Endangered Photographed
D'Orbigny's Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca oenanthoides
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca rufipectoralis
Plain-capped Ground-Tyrant	Muscisaxicola alpinus
Brown-bellied Swallow	Notiochelidon murina
Great Thrush	Turdus fuscater
Tit-like Dacnis	Xenodacnis parina	Photographed
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus unicolor	Photographed
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus plebejus
Plain-tailed Warbling-Finch	Poospiza alticola	Endemic Endangered Photographed
Plain-colored Seedeater	Catamenia inornata
Rufous-eared Brush-Finch	Atlapetes rufigenis	Endemic
Thick-billed Siskin	Carduelis crassirostris

12. Ticlio Bog, Lima      29th March, 2006

   Ticlio Bog can be birded in a day trip from Lima using public transport. Valqui wrote that the Ticlio Pass was at km133 but they seem to have changed the markers and it is now at km131. This takes about 3 hours by bus from Lima but maybe quicker using a colectivo heading towards Huancayo. Buses and colectivos leave an area of Lima called 'Yerbateros'. This is apparently a very dangerous area but if you get a taxi to 'Terminal Terrestre' and get straight on a bus there should be no problem. Some buses leave from offices on Luna Pizarro but these stop in Yerbateros anyway. The fare is 15s. Colectivos leave from accross the street. An alternative to going to Yerbateros would be to catch a bus to Chosica (e.g. from Paseo Colon) and flag down a bus on the Panamericana there. Ticlio Bog is at the km129 marker before the pass on the left-hand side. Look for a point in the road where it runs next to an overhead electricity line. I saw White-bellied Cinclodes right up to the road. They seemed fairly tame and you could get quite close. I also saw Andean Lapwing, Puna Snipe, Andean Flicker and White-winged Diuca Finch here. I checked the other side of the pass but there was not too much of interest. Only Crested Duck and Streak-throated Canastero. Sierra-Finches were common at the pass. The pass is above 4800m. Take it very easy.

I saw 15 species including 1 lifer

Crested Duck	Anas specularioides	Photographed
Puna Hawk	Buteo poecilochrous	Possibly seen
Andean Lapwing	Vanellus resplendens	Photographed
Puna Snipe	Gallinago andina
Andean Gull	Larus serranus	Photographed
Andean Flicker	Colaptes rupicola	Photographed
Bar-winged Cinclodes	Cinclodes fuscus
White-bellied Cinclodes	Cinclodes palliatus	Endemic Vulnerable Photographed
Streak-throated Canastero	Asthenes humilis
White-fronted Ground-Tyrant	Muscisaxicola albifrons	Photographed
Peruvian Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus punensis
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus unicolor
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus plebejus
White-winged Diuca-Finch	Diuca speculifera	Photographed
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis

13. Bosque de Zarate       2nd-4th April & 26th May, 2006

   Getting to Bosque de Zarate involves a 1 and a half hour bus ride followed by a 4-6 hour tough uphill hike. The transport up the Carretera Central is the same as for Ticlio. I took a combi to Chosica then changed to another combi towards San Mateo. There are also combis going to San Bartolome. The turn off is just before the km56 marker. On the bus look for a weighing station, then pass under an iron bridge then through a tunnel. The turning actually has a big sign saying 'Bosque de Zarate'. Walk up this hill and before crossing over a bridge to San Bartolome, you'll see another sign on the left for Bosque de Zarate. At this point turn left onto a trail and follow it up the hill. The trail has a few branches but if you stay on the most obvious one and keep going up hill, you should be OK. It maybe a good idea to hire someone from San Bartolome to show you the way up. Donkeys could also be hired.
   There are arrows and 'BZs' at various points to help you out. After about an hour's walk, you'll reach a hill top with another sign and a couple of families camping out. Follow the trail from here along the valley and after about 2 hours you take a left turn up the hill. If you continue on, it starts to go down hill and gets a bit overgrown. The trail zig-zags up and up. Eventually you should spit out onto a good path which takes you along to the forest. About 30 minutes walk along here you get to a flat spot where you can camp. Here there is a trail into the forest with a few better places to pitch a tent. Several people seem to walk along this path everyday and you can even buy cheese from them. Walking back down, I didn't turn down the way I came but carried on along the good path which passes a few settlements and goes down very steeply. It is shorter but very hard on the legs. I saw Aplomado Falcon on this path.
   My main target was the Rufous-breasted Warbling-Finch which apparently has its stronghold here. Valqui wrote it was 'not uncommon in shrubby areas before the forest'. I failed to see it on my first visit but visited again in May and found 1 bird singing at 3pm a few hundred metres before El Gato (campsite) in thorny scrub at about 2900m. It responded to playback by flying out to an exposed perch where I had excellent view. The habitat here was thorny bushes on a steep slope.

I saw 60 species including 7 lifers

Andean Tinamou	Nothoprocta pentlandii
Harris's Hawk	Parabuteo unicinctus	Seen on the bus to San Bartolome
Broad-winged Hawk	Buteo platypterus	Photographed
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius
Aplomado Falcon	Falco femoralis
Rock Pigeon	Columba livia	Introduced species
Spot-winged Pigeon	Patagioenas maculosa
Band-tailed Pigeon	Patagioenas fasciata
Eared Dove	Zenaida auriculata	Photographed
Pacific Dove	Zenaida meloda
Croaking Ground-Dove	Columbina cruziana
Bare-faced Ground-Dove	Metriopelia ceciliae	Photographed
Black-winged Ground-Dove	Metriopelia melanoptera	Photographed
White-tipped Dove	Leptotila verreauxi
Koepcke's Screech-Owl	Megascops koepckeae	Possibly heard
Andean Pygmy-Owl	Glaucidium jardinii
Sparkling Violet-ear	Colibri coruscans
Giant Hummingbird	Patagona gigas
Bronze-tailed Comet	Polyonymus caroli	Endemic
Tyrian Metaltail	Metallura tyrianthina
Oasis Hummingbird	Rhodopis vesper	Photographed
Peruvian Sheartail	Thaumastura cora	Endemic
Purple-collared Woodstar	Myrtis fanny	Recorded
Plain-breasted Earthcreeper	Upucerthia jelskii	Photographed
White-winged Cinclodes	Cinclodes atacamensis	Photographed
Streaked Tit-Spinetail	Leptasthenura striata
Canyon Canastero	Asthenes pudibunda	Endemic Photographed
Red-crested Cotinga	Ampelion rubrocristata	Photographed
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet	Camptostoma obsoletum	Photographed
Pied-crested Tit-Tyrant	Anairetes reguloides
Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant	Anairetes flavirostris	Posibly seen
Tropical Pewee	Contopus cinereus	Photographed Recorded
Vermilion Flycatcher	Pyrocephalus rubinus
White-browed Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca leucophrys
Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant	Myiotheretes striaticollis
Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant	Muscisaxicola maculirostris
Blue-and-white Swallow	Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Brown-bellied Swallow	Notiochelidon murina
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon
Long-tailed Mockingbird	Mimus longicaudatus
Chiguanco Thrush	Turdus chiguanco
Cinereous Conebill	Conirostrum cinereum
Rufous-chested Tanager	Thlypopsis ornata
Blue-and-yellow Tanager	Thraupis bonariensis
Mourning Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus fruticeti	Photographed Recorded
Band-tailed Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus alaudinus	Photographed
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus plebejus
Great Inca-Finch	Incaspiza pulchra	Endemic Photographed
Rufous-breasted Warbling-Finch	Poospiza rubecula	Endemic Endangered Photographed Recorded
Collared Warbling-Finch	Poospiza hispaniolensis
Band-tailed Seedeater	Catamenia analis	Photographed
Rusty Flowerpiercer	Diglossa sittoides	Photographed
Black-throated Flowerpiercer	Diglossa brunneiventris
Greenish Yellow-Finch	Sicalis olivascens
Rusty-bellied Brush-Finch	Atlapetes nationi	Endemic Photographed
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-billed Saltator	Saltator aurantiirostris	Photographed
Golden-bellied Grosbeak	Pheucticus chrysogaster	Photographed
Scrub Blackbird	Dives warszewiczi
Hooded Siskin	Carduelis magellanica

14. Huacarpay, Cuzco       11th April, 2006

   The town of Huacarpay is easily reached by public transport from Cuzco. Urcos buses leave from Av. de la Cultura accross from Hospital General and take about 45 minutes. From Huacarpay town a road leads off to the right and passes some lakes and wetlands. Follow the instructions in Valqui's guide. This area seems to have been made into a reserve and entrance may be charged in the future. The first flooded area on the left had Black-necked Stilt and Little Blue Heron plus Barn and Cliff swallows perched on the fence on the other side of the road. Further around, some shrubs with tubular yellow flowers start next to a fence. This was mentioned for Bearded Mountaineer but I saw only Green-tailed Trainbearer and possibly Subtropical Doradito. Further on, there is a turn to you right while the road continues and circles back round to Huacarpay. On this road, you pass some ruins where Ginat Hummingbird was common. Rufous-fronted Canastero can also be seen in this area. Further round there is a restaurant called Upicancha which had a garden with lots of flowers and was the only place I saw Bearded Mountaineer. The last lake before Huacarpay had Andean Duck.

I saw 44 species including 2 lifers

White-tufted Grebe	Rollandia rolland
Great Egret	Ardea alba
Little Blue Heron	Egretta caerulea
Snowy Egret	Egretta thula
Puna Ibis	Plegadis ridgwayi
Speckled Teal	Anas flavirostris
Yellow-billed Pintail	Anas georgica
Puna Teal	Anas puna
Andean Duck	Oxyura ferruginea
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius
Aplomado Falcon	Falco femoralis	Seen near Cuzco
Blackish Rail	Pardirallus nigricans
Common Moorhen	Gallinula chloropus
Slate-colored Coot	Fulica ardesiaca
Black-necked Stilt	Himantopus mexicanus
Andean Lapwing	Vanellus resplendens
Lesser Yellowlegs	Tringa flavipes
Andean Gull	Larus serranus
Rock Pigeon	Columba livia	Introduced species
Eared Dove	Zenaida auriculata
Bare-faced Ground-Dove	Metriopelia ceciliae
Sparkling Violet-ear	Colibri coruscans
Giant Hummingbird	Patagona gigas
Green-tailed Trainbearer	Lesbia nuna
Bearded Mountaineer	Oreonympha nobilis	Endemic
White-crested Elaenia	Elaenia albiceps
Tufted Tit-Tyrant	Anairetes parulus
Subtropical Doradito	Pseudocolopteryx acutipennis
White-browed Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca leucophrys
Rufous-naped Ground-Tyrant	Muscisaxicola rufivertex
Brown-bellied Swallow	Notiochelidon murina
Cliff Swallow	Petrochelidon pyrrhonota
Barn Swallow	Hirundo rustica
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon	Heard
Chiguanco Thrush	Turdus chiguanco
Cinereous Conebill	Conirostrum cinereum
Mourning Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus fruticeti
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus plebejus
Band-tailed Seedeater	Catamenia analis
Grassland Yellow-Finch	Sicalis luteola
Greenish Yellow-Finch	Sicalis olivascens
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
Yellow-winged Blackbird	Agelasticus thilius
Hooded Siskin	Carduelis magellanica

15. Ollantaytambo, Cuzco       13th April, 2006

   Ollantaytambo is a popular topurist town with famous ruins. This is a good base from which to visit Machu Picchu and polylepis forest nearby. Ollantaytambo is easily reached by public transport from Cusco. There are a few direct buses including some that go to Quillabamba which probably leave from the main terminal. Easier though is to take a minibus to Urubamba and change. Urubamba buses leave from Avenida Grau near the centre of Cuzco and cost 3s. At the terminal in Urubamba, Ollantaytambo minibuses leave when full. These take just half an hour and cost 1s. There are several places to stay in Ollantaytambo. We stayed at La Choza which was 25s for a double.
   For the road towards Abra Malaga and Quillabamba, turn left when you reach the ruins. The road leads along the valley, parrallel with the train tracks and the river, then turns up into a valley after a few kms. I walked about 11km along this road to the km102 marker. The first few kms were not too interesting birdwise but had Green-and-white Hummingbird on flowering Aloe and Rust-and-yellow Tanager on a scrubby hillside on the right. Birding improves when you head up into the valley and over a bridge. Soon after the bridge, around the km98 marker in agricultural land I saw Black-backed Grosbeak, Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch and Black-and-white Seedeater. Between the km99 and km100 there is a trail to the right which leads down to a spot on the river where I saw White-capped Dipper and Torrent Duck. In scrub on the right of the road at the km100 marker I saw Creamy-crested Spinetail, Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant, White-throated Tyrannulet and Rust-and-yellow Tanager.

I saw 26 species including 5 lifers

Torrent Duck	Merganetta armata
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius
Spot-winged Pigeon	Patagioenas maculosa
Band-tailed Pigeon	Patagioenas fasciata
Eared Dove	Zenaida auriculata
Andean Swift	Aeronautes andecolus
Sparkling Violet-ear	Colibri coruscans
Green-and-white Hummingbird	Leucippus viridicauda	Endemic
Creamy-crested Spinetail	Cranioleuca albicapilla	Endemic
White-crested Elaenia	Elaenia albiceps
White-throated Tyrannulet	Mecocerculus leucophrys
Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant	Anairetes flavirostris
Tufted Tit-Tyrant	Anairetes parulus
White-capped Dipper	Cinclus leucocephalus
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon
Chiguanco Thrush	Turdus chiguanco
Cinereous Conebill	Conirostrum cinereum
Rust-and-yellow Tanager	Thlypopsis ruficeps
Blue-and-yellow Tanager	Thraupis bonariensis
Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch	Poospiza caesar	Endemic
Black-and-white Seedeater	Sporophila luctuosa
Band-tailed Seedeater	Catamenia analis
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-billed Saltator	Saltator aurantiirostris
Black-backed Grosbeak	Pheucticus aureoventris
Hooded Siskin	Carduelis magellanica

16. Yanahuara, Cuzco       14th, 19th-20th April, 2006

   Yanahuara is easily reached in 15 mins (1s) from Ollantaytambo by minibuses heading to Urubamba. Asked to be dropped off at Quinto Paradero by a huge �Casa Andina� sign. Coming from Ollantaytambo turn left here and follow the gravel track up and you pass The luxury �Casa Andina� hotel after 7 mins walk on your left. After 15mins walk, you reach a fork in the road where you turn right. Walk 2 minutes further and turn left at a sign for �Libertador Valle Sagrado Lodge�. After about 45 minutes walk from the main road you will see a huge, bright blue water tank on your right. Walking straight from here you continue up the valley crossing the river 2-3 times. To avoid the river crossings turn left on a small path just 1 minute after the blue tank. If you have transport, you could drive to this point and start walking from here. Either get dropped off or maybe pay someone to look after you car.
   The trail is easy to follow from here and the birding gets better and better. I went up for a day trip one day from Ollantaytambo but failed to see Royal Cinclodes so went back up and camped for the night. Going up and down in a day is tough, as is carrying all your camping stuff to stay. An easier option might be to hire some indigenous people to help you or take your stuff up with mules. ECOAN may be able to help you with this. Barry Walker can arrange trips up there.
   Just after you turn left at the blue tank, there are some maize fields over a wall on the left. Here I saw Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch. Just after you turn left at the blue tank, there are some maize fields over a wall on the left. Here I saw Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch. A little further on, some forest starts where I saw Andean Parakeet, Tufted Tit-Tyrant and Red-crested Cotinga. Further up, between 3,400m and 3,600m I saw Tyrian Metaltail, Rufous-breasted and Giant Conebill. Between 3,600m and 3,800m I saw Andean Flicker, Rufous-fronted Canastero, White-browed Conebill, Creamy-crested Spinetail and White-browed Tit-Spinetail. At about 2850m the good polylepis forest starts. This takes about 2 and a half hours non-stop walking. With breaks and birding, this took me 3 and a half hours on my day trip and almost 5 carrying a heavy pack. This first good area has most or the Polylepis specialists minus Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant and Royal Cinclodes. The former can be seen about 10-15 minutes further along after a gap between forest patches. Royal Cinclodes is very difficult and took me 3 days searching to locate.
   Further along, the trail splits. The left fork carries along the river to a flat open area with a few houses. A nice chap called Mario lives here with his family and a drunk called Claudio lives right at the end. This open area is a good base to camp but beware, it gets very cold at night. My tent was frozen in the morning. This open area has Black and Thick-billed siskins, Plumbeus and Ash-breasted sierra-finches. From the flat area you can walk up the hill to the trail. This carries on to 2 lakes. The first is fairly large and the second not much more than a boggy area. At the far end of this, there is a small but very good patch of mossy Polylepis which apparently has a pair of Royal Cinclodes. I didn�t see them but found Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant, Peruvian Sierra-Finch and Stripe-headed Antpitta.
   Before the first lake, coming up from the open valley, there is a decent-sized Polylepis patch on your right. Apparently this has 3 pairs of Royal Cinclodes. I didn�t find any. Towards the end of this patch, on the right side of the trail is a large boulder. Behind this leads a trail up into the forest. This trail eventually reaches a clearing and crosses a stream. After this, there is a trail leading up on the right hand side of the stream. This is very steep and the altitude here about 4200m making it a tough climb. It eventually reaches another level which looks like an amphitheatre. At the back on the left you will see a small patch of excellent mossy Polylepis. This has 1-2 pairs of Royal Cinclodes. It is however under intense cutting pressure. The day I was there, 3 indigenous people from Huacahuasi were there with 25 llamas loaded down with wood.

I saw 51 species including 6 lifers

Speckled Teal	Anas flavirostris
Crested Duck	Anas specularioides
Rock Pigeon	Columba livia	Introduced species
Spot-winged Pigeon	Patagioenas maculosa
Band-tailed Pigeon	Patagioenas fasciata
Eared Dove	Zenaida auriculata
Andean Parakeet	Bolborhynchus orbygnesius
White-collared Swift	Streptoprocne zonaris
Sparkling Violet-ear	Colibri coruscans
Green-and-white Hummingbird	Leucippus viridicauda	Endemic
White-tufted Sunbeam	Aglaeactis castelnaudii	Endemic
Giant Hummingbird	Patagona gigas
Tyrian Metaltail	Metallura tyrianthina
Blue-mantled Thornbill	Chalcostigma stanleyi
Andean Flicker	Colaptes rupicola
Bar-winged Cinclodes	Cinclodes fuscus
Royal Cinclodes	Cinclodes aricomae	Critically endangered
White-winged Cinclodes	Cinclodes atacamensis
White-browed Tit-Spinetail	Leptasthenura xenothorax	Endemic Endangered
Tawny Tit-Spinetail	Leptasthenura yanacensis	Near-threatened
Creamy-crested Spinetail	Cranioleuca albicapilla	Endemic
Puna Thistletail	Schizoeaca helleri	Endemic
Rusty-fronted Canastero	Asthenes ottonis	Endemic
Streak-throated Canastero	Asthenes humilis
Stripe-headed Antpitta	Grallaria andicola
Red-crested Cotinga	Ampelion rubrocristata
White-crested Elaenia	Elaenia albiceps
Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant	Anairetes alpinus	Endangered
Tufted Tit-Tyrant	Anairetes parulus
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca rufipectoralis
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca fumicolor
Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant	Cnemarchus erythropygius
White-fronted Ground-Tyrant	Muscisaxicola albifrons	Possibly seen
Brown-bellied Swallow	Notiochelidon murina
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon
Chiguanco Thrush	Turdus chiguanco
Great Thrush	Turdus fuscater
Cinereous Conebill	Conirostrum cinereum
White-browed Conebill	Conirostrum ferrugineiventre
Giant Conebill	Oreomanes fraseri	Near-threatened
Blue-and-yellow Tanager	Thraupis bonariensis
Peruvian Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus punensis
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus unicolor
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus plebejus
Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch	Poospiza caesar	Endemic
Band-tailed Seedeater	Catamenia analis
Black-throated Flowerpiercer	Diglossa brunneiventris
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-billed Saltator	Saltator aurantiirostris
Thick-billed Siskin	Carduelis crassirostris
Black Siskin	Carduelis atrata

17. Abra Malaga, near Ollantaytambo, Cuzco      April, 2006

   Abra Malaga is about 45km past Ollantaytambo on the way to Quillabamba. It can be done in a day trip from Ollantaytambo (or even Cuzco!) using public transport but you arrive late and the bus back is a bit of a worry. The only buses up there are from Cuzco and several arrive in Ollantaytambo at about 10am. The is paved and in good condition most of the way but there were road works at svereal points. It took an hour and a half to get to the Abra which is at about 4200m altitude. Following directions in Valqui, walk back down the road towards Ollantaytambo and after a few hundred metres start walking up the hill to the right. There peaks very high up with a few trees visable. Aim to a lower part of the ridge to the right. It isn't too far but you should take it very slower with the altitude. On this side of the ridge I saw Mountain Caracara and White-collared Swift. Once at the top of the ridge look for a trail leading down diagonally to the right into the valley. It was misty when I was there but on a clear day, you should be able to see Polylepis down in the valley. This trail winds down into the valley and finally passes through scattered Polylepis. Walk through this area and look for areas with moss. A good place to see Royal Cinclodes is apparently by a natural, verticle wall. Although there are supposedly 3 pairs of Royal Cinclodes in this area, they are difficult to see and I failed to see the species. In this area I saw Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant and Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant.
   Continue down to the right and at the bottom of the valley beneath a big cliff is a very birdy polylepis patch. This had Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant, Puna Thistletail and Puna Tapaculo. White-browed Tit-Spinetail was common in any area with Polylepis. From here you can walk down the valley along the river. This area had Ash-breasted & Plumbeus sierra-finches and Plain-capped Ground-Tyrant. The valley has a few houses and the trail spits back out onto the main road 15km further down than the Abra. The final section of the trail has some good scrub where I saw Tufted Tit-Tyrant and Andean Parakeet.
   A bus back to Ollantaytambo and Cuzco supposedly passes here at 5pm but didn't come until after 6 when it was starting to get dark and we were starting to get very worried. A safer bet might be to get a taxi to come and pick you up.

I saw 24 species including 2 lifers

Speckled Teal	Anas flavirostris
Puna Hawk	Buteo poecilochrous
Mountain Caracara	Phalcoboenus megalopterus
Band-tailed Pigeon	Patagioenas fasciata	Seen on the way to Abra Malaga
Andean Parakeet	Bolborhynchus orbygnesius
White-collared Swift	Streptoprocne zonaris
Blue-mantled Thornbill	Chalcostigma stanleyi
Bar-winged Cinclodes	Cinclodes fuscus
White-winged Cinclodes	Cinclodes atacamensis
White-browed Tit-Spinetail	Leptasthenura xenothorax	Endemic Endangered
Puna Thistletail	Schizoeaca helleri	Endemic Possibly seen
Puna Tapaculo	Scytalopus simonsi
Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant	Anairetes alpinus	Endangered
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca fumicolor
Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant	Cnemarchus erythropygius
Plain-capped Ground-Tyrant	Muscisaxicola alpinus
Brown-bellied Swallow	Notiochelidon murina
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon
Great Thrush	Turdus fuscater
Peruvian Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus punensis
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus unicolor
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus plebejus
Black-throated Flowerpiercer	Diglossa brunneiventris
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis

18. Machu Picchu, Aguas Calientes, Cuzco       16th April, 2006

   This is probably the most visited tourist site in Peru. The ruins are quite spectacular but ridiculously overpriced. They are accessed from the town of Aguas Calientes which is reached by train from Cuzco or Ollantaytambo. It can be done on a day trip from Cuzco, privately or as part of a tour, but the cheapest way is to buy tickets yourself in Ollantaytambo. The cheapest return fare for the 2 hour journey is a steep US$44. This train leaves Ollantaytambo at 8pm and the return train leaves Aguas Calientes at 5:45am meaning you have to spend at least 2 nights here. The cheapest option would be to camp down by the river but there is plenty of cheap accommodation. We stayed at a hotel by the station paying 30s for a double. The entrance ticket to the ruins is a further 80s (40s for students with a photo ID) which must be bought at the office in Aguas Calientes. The final nail in the coffin is an absurd US$12 return bus fare up to the ruins (less than 20 minutes). We walked the 6km steep trail up in 1 hour and 10 mins but would normally take 1 and a half to 2 hrs. Another option would be to take the bus up and walk back down.
   We set off in the dark to get to the ruins early. The first bus up leaves at about 5:30am. Many bird were calling on our walk up including Sickle-winged Guan. Interesting birds around the ruins were Inca Wren (common and very vocal in the early morning in scrub and bamboo), White-tipped Swift (flying over the ruins) and Black-and-blue Tanager. At the top of the ruins there is a trail leading to the Inca Bridge. This was very birdy and I saw White-eared Solitaire, Green Violetear, Green-and-white Hummingbird, Tufted Tit-Tyrant and Azara�s Spinetail plus coatis.
   On the walk back down to Aguas Calientes I saw Blue-necked and Saffron-crowned tanagers, Masked Fruit-eater, Sclater�s Tyrannulet, Pale-legged Warbler and Mitred Parakeet. White-capped Dipper on rocks in the river and Black Phoebe nearby. There is a famous Andean Cock-of-the-Rock lek along the train tracks a few hundred metres from the old Puente Ruinas station. From the road, walk up the steps or access road and walk along the tracks o where they turn towards the right. Here there is a metal sign reading �113�. After this there are steep, natural walls and shady forest. Here is a good place to see the birds. I heard them and saw them briefly in flight in the evening. Early morning would probably be a better time to look for them. Andean Solitaire was also heard calling from here. On the train ride back to Ollantaytambo, I saw Torrent Duck on a river.

I saw 36 species including 7 lifers

Torrent Duck	Merganetta armata	Seen from the train to Aguas Calientes
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius
Sickle-winged Guan	Chamaepetes goudotii
Rock Pigeon	Columba livia	Introduced species
Mitred Parakeet	Aratinga mitrata
White-tipped Swift	Aeronautes montivagus
Green Violet-ear	Colibri thalassinus
Green-and-white Hummingbird	Leucippus viridicauda	Endemic
Andean Flicker	Colaptes rupicola
Azara's Spinetail	Synallaxis azarae
Masked Fruiteater	Pipreola pulchra	Endemic
Andean Cock-of-the-rock	Rupicola peruviana
Sclater's Tyrannulet	Phyllomyias sclateri
White-banded Tyrannulet	Mecocerculus stictopterus
Tufted Tit-Tyrant	Anairetes parulus
Black Phoebe	Sayornis nigricans
Tropical Kingbird	Tyrannus melancholicus
Blue-and-white Swallow	Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
White-capped Dipper	Cinclus leucocephalus
Inca Wren	Thryothorus eisenmanni	Endemic
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon
Andean Solitaire	Myadestes ralloides	Heard
White-eared Solitaire	Entomodestes leucotis
Tropical Parula	Parula pitiayumi
Slate-throated Redstart	Myioborus miniatus
Pale-legged Warbler	Basileuterus signatus
Blue-gray Tanager	Thraupis episcopus
Blue-capped Tanager	Thraupis cyanocephala
Saffron-crowned Tanager	Tangara xanthocephala
Blue-necked Tanager	Tangara cyanicollis
Blue-and-black Tanager	Tangara vassorii
Dull-colored Grassquit	Tiaris obscura
Tricolored Brush-Finch	Atlapetes tricolor
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-billed Saltator	Saltator aurantiirostris
Hooded Siskin	Carduelis magellanica

19. Bosque Ampay, Apurimac       23rd-24th April, 2006

   Bosque de Ampay is located near the large town of Abancay in the state of Apurimac, 4-5 hours from Cuzco by regular bus. Abancay has many places to stay eat and internet. Taxis will take you up to the 'Sanctuario' for 10s although the road is bad. Alternatively you can take any minibus heading up towards Cuzco and get out at the turn-off. This used to be an arch but it seems to have fallen in and is now a non-descript left turn a a sharp right bend 5-10 minutes up from the centre. From the turn-off it is about a 4km walk up hill to the 'Estacion Ecologico'. Part of the way up there is a confusing junction with 3 options. Take the middle one that goes up the highest. You may need to register at the building although there was nobody there but we got collared on the way down and had to pay an unofficial 5s litter picking charge.
   Birding is good up from the building. Above here I saw Cinnamon Flycatcher, Blue-and-yellow & Rust-and-yellow tanagers, Mountain Velvetbreast, Black-throated Flowerpiercer and Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch. Higher up there is a fork in the trail with the left one going to the small lake (Angasqocha) just 5 minutes away, and the right going up to the large upper lake (Uspaqocha), a further 2 hour's walk. At the fork I saw Apurimac & Creamy-crested Spinetail plus White-banded Tyrannulet. Following the left trail past the small lake, you get to a clearing where noisy kids play football at the weekend. This would make a good place to camp. This clearing is good for hummingbirds and I saw Violet-fronted Starfrontlet here. From here there are some small trails into the forest. I found one that passed through good Podocarpus forest up to a house. I had great views of Undulated Antpitta here. Back at the fork, there was good birding up the other trail towards the upper lake. On the first part of this trail I saw Rufous-fronted Canastero in a clearing, Apurimac Spinetail, Pearled Treerunner and White-tufted Sunbeam. Higher up in more scrubby areas I saw Shining Sunbeam, Puna Hawk (both dark and light phases), Andean Parakeet, Andean Flicker and White-browed Chat-Tyrant. Up near the lake I saw Andean Goose, Bar-winged Cinclodes, Black-billed Shrike Tyrant and several species of sierra-finch.

I saw 45 species including 6 lifers

Andean Goose	Chloephaga melanoptera
Plain-breasted Hawk	Accipiter ventralis	Possibly seen
Red-backed Hawk	Buteo polyosoma
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius
Band-tailed Pigeon	Patagioenas fasciata	Possibly seen
Eared Dove	Zenaida auriculata
Mitred Parakeet	Aratinga mitrata
Andean Parakeet	Bolborhynchus orbygnesius
White-collared Swift	Streptoprocne zonaris	Possibly seen
Sparkling Violet-ear	Colibri coruscans
White-bellied Hummingbird	Leucippus chionogaster
Shining Sunbeam	Aglaeactis cupripennis
Violet-throated Starfrontlet	Coeligena violifer
Tyrian Metaltail	Metallura tyrianthina
Scaled Metaltail	Metallura aeneocauda	Possibly seen
Blue-mantled Thornbill	Chalcostigma stanleyi
Bar-winged Cinclodes	Cinclodes fuscus
Apurimac Spinetail	Synallaxis courseni	Endemic Vulnerable
Creamy-crested Spinetail	Cranioleuca albicapilla	Endemic
Rusty-fronted Canastero	Asthenes ottonis	Endemic Possibly seen
Pearled Treerunner	Margarornis squamiger
Undulated Antpitta	Grallaria squamigera
Red-crested Cotinga	Ampelion rubrocristata
White-crested Elaenia	Elaenia albiceps
Cinnamon Flycatcher	Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca rufipectoralis
White-browed Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca leucophrys
Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant	Agriornis montana	Possibly seen
White-winged Black-Tyrant	Knipolegus aterrimus
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon	Heard
Chiguanco Thrush	Turdus chiguanco
Great Thrush	Turdus fuscater
Spectacled Redstart	Myioborus melanocephalus
Cinereous Conebill	Conirostrum cinereum
Rust-and-yellow Tanager	Thlypopsis ruficeps
Blue-and-yellow Tanager	Thraupis bonariensis
Peruvian Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus punensis
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus unicolor
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus plebejus
Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch	Poospiza caesar	Endemic
Black-throated Flowerpiercer	Diglossa brunneiventris
Apurimac Brush-Finch	Atlapetes forbesi	Endemic
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-billed Saltator	Saltator aurantiirostris
Hooded Siskin	Carduelis magellanica

20. Manu Road (Acjanaco to San Pedro plus Dos Cinquenta)       April, 2006

   The Manu Road can be reached from Cuzco by bus. The 'Gallito de las Rocas' company has buses to Pilcopata Monday, Wednesday and Friday leaving their office on Angamos at 8:30am (15 soles). I got off this bus at Acjanaco (3487m) where it arrived at 2:30pm. At this altitude there is some elfin forest but when I was there it was very foggy and I saw very few birds. If you're interested in birding this area, it might be worth spending the night here. We walked down to the first small settlement of Esperanza (2,850m) but it took us 4 hours with birding and we arrived after dark. There is a sign for Esperanza on the right side and a wooden hut on the left. After this there is a path up to the left to a flat, grassy area which makes a good place to camp. The area below here had excellent birding in the morning.
   On our second day we walked down, past Pillahuata (2,600m), to a beautiful area of lush forest. After a steep bend in the road where a stream comes down, there is a waterfall on the left. Just before a stream runs accross the road, there is a little path leading right to a flat area hidden from the road just big enough to pitch a tent (2,400m). We spent our second night here.
   On the third day we walked down, past a house a Rocotal (where you could also camp) to the abandoned buildings at Suiza (about 2,100m). Apparently there used to be a little shop here but there were no people there when we arrived. There is flat ground behind the buildings that makes a good place to camp and a nearby stream with good water. At the last stream before Suiza we saw Wooly Monkeys.
   Our last day we walked from Suiza to Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge (1600m). This was the best day's birding and had some beautiful species including Andean Cock-of-the-Rock which was common between Manu Cloud Forest Lodge (1800m) and Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. There was also a trail from the main building at the latter lodge that ran down towards the river. Here I heard was good for Black Tinamou but I didn't see it.
   We took a bus to Atalaya the next day where we stayed the night and boarded the boat to Manu Wildlife Centre. A few birds can be seen around Atalaya including macaws accross the river. Coming back from Manu Wildlife Centre we got a boat to 'Dos Cincuenta' and from there we came back by land. There is a guard station there called Punto Vigilancia (PV) Santa Cruz where park guards stay. It should be possible to stay here. A bus passes here in the mid morning, daily(?) from Shintuya to Salvacion (where there is accomodation and internet). This may continue onto Pilcopata on Mon/Wed/Fri when bus go to Cuzco. The area from PV Santa Cruz to Pilcopata has some nice secondary forest and lots of birds and would be worth exploring more thouroughly. Trucks also here going to Pilcopata and Cuzco and we took one of these logging trucks back to Cuzco.

I saw 169 species including 37 lifers

Little Tinamou	Crypturellus soui	Possibly seen 500m
Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis	540m
Striated Heron	Butorides striata	540m
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura	790m
Roadside Hawk	Buteo magnirostris	500-1200m
Speckled Chachalaca	Ortalis guttata	500m
Andean Guan	Penelope montagnii	Possibly heard at 2850m
Collared Plover	Charadrius collaris	540m
Spotted Sandpiper	Actitis macularia	540m
Band-tailed Pigeon	Patagioenas fasciata	2640m
Plumbeous Pigeon	Patagioenas plumbea	1710m
Ruddy Ground-Dove	Columbina talpacoti	500m
Gray-fronted Dove	Leptotila rufaxilla	Heard at 500m
Blue-and-yellow Macaw	Ara ararauna	540m
Scarlet Macaw	Ara macao	540m
Red-and-green Macaw	Ara chloroptera	540m
Chestnut-fronted Macaw	Ara severa	500-1110m
White-eyed Parakeet	Aratinga leucophthalmus	500m
Blue-headed Parrot	Pionus menstruus	500m
Speckle-faced Parrot	Pionus tumultuosus	1949-2530m Photographed Recorded
Yellow-crowned Parrot	Amazona ochrocephala	500m
Little Cuckoo	Piaya minuta	500m Photographed
Smooth-billed Ani	Crotophaga ani	500-970m
Tropical Screech-Owl	Megascops choliba	Heard at 500m & 540m
Andean Pygmy-Owl	Glaucidium jardinii	Possibly heard at 2120m
Sand-colored Nighthawk	Chordeiles rupestris	540m
Chestnut-collared Swift	Streptoprocne rutila	Possibly seen at 1630m
Green Hermit	Phaethornis guy	1600m
Gray-breasted Sabrewing	Campylopterus largipennis	500m
Green Violet-ear	Colibri thalassinus	2340-2690m Recorded
Sparkling Violet-ear	Colibri coruscans	3400m Recorded
Wire-crested Thorntail	Popelairia popelairii	1600m
Fork-tailed Woodnymph	Thalurania furcata	500m
Golden-tailed Sapphire	Chrysuronia oenone	500m
Speckled Hummingbird	Adelomyia melanogenys	1600-2380m
Violet-fronted Brilliant	Heliodoxa leadbeateri	1600m
Gould's Inca	Coeligena inca	2350-2420m
Violet-throated Starfrontlet	Coeligena violifer	3400m
Amethyst-throated Sunangel	Heliangelus amethysticollis	2750m
Buff-thighed Puffleg	Haplophaedia assimilis	2120m Photographed Recorded
Booted Racket-tail	Ocreatus underwoodii	1600-2120m
Tyrian Metaltail	Metallura tyrianthina	2410-3450m
Scaled Metaltail	Metallura aeneocauda	Possibly seen at 2850m
Long-tailed Sylph	Aglaiocercus kingi	2060m
White-bellied Woodstar	Chaetocercus mulsant	2120m
Masked Trogon	Trogon personatus	2420-2730m Photographed Recorded
Black-tailed Trogon	Trogon melanurus	500m Recorded
Green Kingfisher	Chloroceryle americana	540m
Highland Motmot	Momotus aequatorialis	1580-1710m
Versicolored Barbet	Eubucco versicolor	Possibly seen at 2130m
Blue-banded Toucanet	Aulacorhynchus coeruleicinctis	2470m Photographed Recorded
Fine-barred Piculet	Picumnus subtilis	Endemic 540m
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker	Piculus rivolii	2370m
Spot-breasted Woodpecker	Colaptes punctigula	500m
Azara's Spinetail	Synallaxis azarae	1880-2850m
Plain-crowned Spinetail	Synallaxis gujanensis	Heard at 500m
Pearled Treerunner	Margarornis squamiger	2420-2850m
Montane Foliage-gleaner	Anabacerthia striaticollis	1880m
Streaked Tuftedcheek	Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii	2220-2750m
Striped Treehunter	Thripadectes holostictus	Possibly seen at 2130m
Montane Woodcreeper	Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger	2050-2440m
Great Antshrike	Taraba major	500m Recorded
White-backed Fire-eye	Pyriglena leuconota	1820-1920m Recorded
Black-throated Antbird	Myrmeciza atrothorax	500m Recorded
Red-and-white Antpitta	Grallaria erythroleuca	Endemic Heard at 2410-2750m Recorded
Bolivian Tapaculo	Scytalopus bolivianus	1840-2130m Recorded
Band-tailed Fruiteater	Pipreola intermedia	2820m
Andean Cock-of-the-rock	Rupicola peruviana	1650-1830m
Yungas Manakin	Chiroxiphia boliviana	1600m
Mouse-colored Tyrannulet	Phaeomyias murina	500m
Lesser Elaenia	Elaenia chiriquensis	500m
Sierran Elaenia	Elaenia pallatangae	2660m
Streak-necked Flycatcher	Mionectes striaticollis	2050-2750m
Tawny-rumped Tyrannulet	Phyllomyias uropygialis	Possibly seen at 2850m
White-throated Tyrannulet	Mecocerculus leucophrys	2750m
White-tailed Tyrannulet	Mecocerculus poecilocercus	2370-2810m
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant	Lophotriccus pileatus	2830m
Handsome Flycatcher	Myiophobus pulcher	Possibly seen at 2320-2440m
Cinnamon Flycatcher	Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea	1940-2820m
Smoke-colored Pewee	Contopus fumigatus	2020-2130m
Black Phoebe	Sayornis nigricans	1800m
Maroon-chested Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca thoracica	2410m
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca fumicolor	3330m
Pale-edged Flycatcher	Myiarchus cephalotes	2060-2340m
Social Flycatcher	Myiozetetes similis	500m
Lemon-browed Flycatcher	Conopias cinchoneti	1630m
Golden-crowned Flycatcher	Myiodynastes chrysocephalus	Heard at 2420m
Sulphury Flycatcher	Tyrannopsis sulphurea	500m
Tropical Kingbird	Tyrannus melancholicus	500-1630m
Barred Becard	Pachyramphus versicolor	2220-2850m
Black-crowned Tityra	Tityra inquisitor	500m
White-rumped Swallow	Tachycineta leucorrhoa	Possibly seen at 500m
Blue-and-white Swallow	Notiochelidon cyanoleuca	500-2690m
Southern Rough-winged Swallow	Stelgidopteryx ruficollis	500m
Moustached Wren	Thryothorus genibarbis	Heard at 500m & 1600m
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon	Heard at 500m
Mountain Wren	Troglodytes solstitialis	2130-2420m
Sedge Wren	Cistothorus platensis	3130m
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren	Henicorhina leucophrys	1600-2410m Recorded
Andean Solitaire	Myadestes ralloides	Heard at 2120m Recorded
Great Thrush	Turdus fuscater	3320m Photographed
Andean Slaty-Thrush	Turdus nigriceps	2130m Recorded
Green Jay	Cyanocorax yncas	1860m Recorded
Violaceous Jay	Cyanocorax violaceus	530m Recorded
White-collared Jay	Cyanolyca viridicyana	2640m Recorded
Red-eyed Vireo	Vireo olivaceus	500-540m
Tropical Parula	Parula pitiayumi	1630m
Slate-throated Redstart	Myioborus miniatus	1710-2050m
Spectacled Redstart	Myioborus melanocephalus	2410-2820m
Pale-legged Warbler	Basileuterus signatus	2130-2410m Recorded
Citrine Warbler	Basileuterus luteoviridis	2350-2810m
Russet-crowned Warbler	Basileuterus coronatus	2130m
Three-striped Warbler	Basileuterus tristriatus	1710-2130m Recorded
Bananaquit	Coereba flaveola	500m
Cinereous Conebill	Conirostrum cinereum	Heard at 2850m
Blue-backed Conebill	Conirostrum sitticolor	2420-2850m Photographed
Capped Conebill	Conirostrum albifrons	1960-2420m
Magpie Tanager	Cissopis leveriana	500m
Grass-green Tanager	Chlorornis riefferii	2350-2660m
Common Bush-Tanager	Chlorospingus ophthalmicus	2130-2420m
Short-billed Bush-Tanager	Chlorospingus parvirostris	1800-2440m
Gray-hooded Bush-Tanager	Cnemoscopus rubrirostris	2320-2470m
Superciliaried Hemispingus	Hemispingus superciliaris	2420m
Oleaginous Hemispingus	Hemispingus frontalis	2340m
Black-eared Hemispingus	Hemispingus melanotis	2370m
Drab Hemispingus	Hemispingus xanthophthalmus	2850m
White-browed Hemispingus	Hemispingus auricularis	Endemic 2850m Recorded
Slaty Tanager	Creurgops dentata	1710-2130m
White-shouldered Tanager	Tachyphonus luctuosus	500m
Masked Crimson Tanager	Ramphocelus nigrogularis	500m
Silver-beaked Tanager	Ramphocelus carbo	500-1620m
Blue-gray Tanager	Thraupis episcopus	500-540m
Blue-capped Tanager	Thraupis cyanocephala	2560-2820m
Palm Tanager	Thraupis palmarum	500m
Hooded Mountain-Tanager	Buthraupis montana	2850-3220m Photographed Recorded
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager	Anisognathus igniventris	2720-3330m
Yellow-throated Tanager	Iridosornis analis	1950-2130m
Golden-collared Tanager	Iridosornis jelskii	2820m Photographed
Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager	Delothraupis castaneoventris	1880-2820m Photographed
White-vented Euphonia	Euphonia minuta	Possibly seen at 500m
Orange-bellied Euphonia	Euphonia xanthogaster	500-2130m
Orange-eared Tanager	Chlorochrysa calliparaea	1880m
Turquoise Tanager	Tangara mexicana	500m
Paradise Tanager	Tangara chilensis	500m
Green-and-gold Tanager	Tangara schrankii	500m
Golden Tanager	Tangara arthus	1880m
Saffron-crowned Tanager	Tangara xanthocephala	2050-2120m
Blue-necked Tanager	Tangara cyanicollis	500m
Beryl-spangled Tanager	Tangara nigroviridis	1970-2120m
Blue-and-black Tanager	Tangara vassorii	2720-2830m
Black-faced Dacnis	Dacnis lineata	500m
Yellow-bellied Dacnis	Dacnis flaviventer	500m
Purple Honeycreeper	Cyanerpes caeruleus	500-1620m
Chestnut-bellied Seed-Finch	Oryzoborus angolensis	500m
Rusty Flowerpiercer	Diglossa sittoides	2660m
Deep-blue Flowerpiercer	Diglossopis glauca	1970-2130m
Bluish Flowerpiercer	Diglossopis caerulescens	1880m
Masked Flowerpiercer	Diglossopis cyanea	2420-3040m Recorded
Olive Finch	Lysurus castaneiceps	1880-1940m
Black-faced Brush-Finch	Atlapetes melanolaimus	2350-3220m
Yellow-browed Sparrow	Ammodramus aurifrons	Heard at 500m Recorded
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis	2850-3490m
Buff-throated Saltator	Saltator maximus	500m
Mountain Cacique	Cacicus chrysonotus	2640-2820m Recorded
Crested Oropendola	Psarocolius decumanus	500m
Dusky-green Oropendola	Psarocolius atrovirens	1710-2050m Photographed Recorded
Russet-backed Oropendola	Psarocolius angustifrons	500-1630m Photographed
Orange-backed Troupial	Icterus croconotus	500m
Olivaceous Siskin	Carduelis olivacea	2130m Photographed

21. Manu Wildlife Centre, Boca Manu & Boat ride, Madre de Dios      1st-8th May, 2006

   Packages to Manu Wildlife Centre can be booked through InkaNatura or Manu Expeditions. I wanted to bird the Manu Road first and met up with a group at the Cock-of-the-Rock lodge and took a boat with them from Atalaya. The boat takes about 6 hours down stream (more up) and I saw many good water birds. MWC has a very extensive set of trails some better for certain species than others. The trail towards the canopy platform was good for mixed understorey flocks of antshrikes, antbirds and antwrens, whilst the canopy platform was excellent for canopy flocks of tanagers. The Collpa trail was good for foliage-gleaners. The bamboo area near the lodge and the area of bamboo on the island had a few bamboo specialists. Other common birds could be seen around the lodge gardens, by the dock and in the camp on the island. See the following list for where I saw various species. The canopy platform can be excellent in the mornings and with a scope you could see many species better. The macaw lick and the Rufous-fronted Antthrush site can be reached by boat but I didn't get there. The latter species can also apparently be seen in the forest surrounding the Boca Manu airport.
I saw 173 species including 56 lifers

Cinereous Tinamou	Crypturellus cinereus	Collpa Trail
Undulated Tinamou	Crypturellus undulatus	Island
Bartlett's Tinamou	Crypturellus bartletti	Heard on the Island
Anhinga	Anhinga anhinga	Boat from Atalaya
Capped Heron	Pilherodius pileatus	Dock
Cocoi Heron	Ardea cocoi	Boat from Atalaya
Great Egret	Ardea alba	Boat from Atalaya
Little Blue Heron	Egretta caerulea	Boat from Atalaya
Snowy Egret	Egretta thula	Dock
Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis	Boat from Atalaya
Striated Heron	Butorides striata	Boat from Atalaya
Fasciated Tiger-Heron	Tigrisoma fasciatum	Boat from Atalaya
Horned Screamer	Anhima cornuta	Boat from Atalaya
Muscovy Duck	Cairina moschata	Boat from Atalaya
Black Vulture	Coragyps atratus	Dock
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura	Dock
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture	Cathartes melambrotus	Dock
Hook-billed Kite	Chondrohierax uncinatus	Canopy platform?
Crane Hawk	Geranospiza caerulescens	Near lodge
Great Black-Hawk	Buteogallus urubitinga	Boat from Atalaya
Roadside Hawk	Buteo magnirostris	Dock
Black Caracara	Daptrius ater	Bamboo Trail
Laughing Falcon	Herpetotheres cachinnans	Heard in Boca Manu
Barred Forest-Falcon	Micrastur ruficollis	Island
Collared Forest-Falcon	Micrastur semitorquatus	Heard from Canopy platform
Bat Falcon	Falco rufigularis	Dock
Speckled Chachalaca	Ortalis guttata	Bamboo Trail
Spix's Guan	Penelope jacquacu	Collpa Trail
Razor-billed Curassow	Mitu tuberosa	Island
Pale-winged Trumpeter	Psophia leucoptera	Near lodge
Pied Lapwing	Vanellus cayanus	Island
Collared Plover	Charadrius collaris	Island
Spotted Sandpiper	Actitis macularia	Island
Yellow-billed Tern	Sterna superciliaris	Boat from Atalaya
Large-billed Tern	Phaetusa simplex	Island
Black Skimmer	Rynchops niger	Boat from Atalaya
Plumbeous Pigeon	Patagioenas plumbea	Canopy platform
Ruddy Pigeon	Patagioenas subvinacea	Heard on Collpa Trail?
Gray-fronted Dove	Leptotila rufaxilla	Near lodge
Blue-and-yellow Macaw	Ara ararauna	Canopy platform
Scarlet Macaw	Ara macao	Dock
Red-and-green Macaw	Ara chloroptera	Boat from Atalaya
Chestnut-fronted Macaw	Ara severa	Bamboo Trail
White-eyed Parakeet	Aratinga leucophthalmus	Dock
Red-crowned Parakeet	Pyrrhura roseifrons	Tapir Lick
Black-capped Parakeet	Pyrrhura rupicola	Canopy platform
Cobalt-winged Parakeet	Brotogeris cyanoptera	Canopy platform
White-bellied Parrot	Pionites leucogaster	Canopy platform
Blue-headed Parrot	Pionus menstruus	Bamboo Trail
Mealy Parrot	Amazona farinosa	Dock
Squirrel Cuckoo	Piaya cayana	Creekside Trail
Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl	Megascops watsonii	Heard on the Island
Amazonian Pygmy-Owl	Glaucidium hardyi	Heard on the Island
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl	Glaucidium brasilianum	Heard in Boca Manu
Great Potoo	Nyctibius grandis	Heard on the Island
Common Potoo	Nyctibius griseus	Heard on the Island
Sand-colored Nighthawk	Chordeiles rupestris	Boat from Atalaya
Pauraque	Nyctidromus albicollis	Heard in Boca Manu
White-collared Swift	Streptoprocne zonaris	Boat from Atalaya
Swift sp	Cypseloides sp	Canopy platform
Needle-billed Hermit	Phaethornis philippii	Possibly seen on Bamboo Trail
Reddish Hermit	Phaethornis ruber	Near lodge
Collared Trogon	Trogon collaris	Grid
Black-tailed Trogon	Trogon melanurus	Possibly seen
Ringed Kingfisher	Ceryle torquatus	Boat from Atalaya
Amazon Kingfisher	Chloroceryle amazona	Dock
Green Kingfisher	Chloroceryle americana	Dock
American Pygmy Kingfisher	Chloroceryle aenea	River Trail
Blue-crowned Motmot	Momotus momota	Possibly heard on the island
Rufous Motmot	Baryphthengus martii	Collpa Trail
Broad-billed Motmot	Electron platyrhynchum	Heard from Canopy platform
Bluish-fronted Jacamar	Galbula cyanescens	Near lodge
Striolated Puffbird	Nystalus striolatus	Possibly seen from Canopy platform
Semicollared Puffbird	Malacoptila semicincta	Grid
Black-fronted Nunbird	Monasa nigrifrons	Canopy platform
White-fronted Nunbird	Monasa morphoeus	Grid
Swallow-wing	Chelidoptera tenebrosa	Dock
Gilded Barbet	Capito auratus	Creekside Trail
Lettered Aracari	Pteroglossus inscriptus	Canopy platform
(Brown-mandibled Aracari)	Pteroglossus mariae	Canopy platform Grid
Chestnut-eared Aracari	Pteroglossus castanotis	Island
Curl-crested Aracari	Pteroglossus beauharnaesii	Canopy platform Grid
Golden-collared Toucanet	Selenidera reinwardtii	Collpa Trail
(Yellow-ridged Toucan)	Ramphastos culminatus	Canopy platform
(Cuvier's Toucan)	Ramphastos cuvieri	Canopy platform
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker	Melanerpes cruentatus	Collpa Trail
Little Woodpecker	Veniliornis passerinus	Island
Red-stained Woodpecker	Veniliornis affinis	Collpa Trail
Golden-green Woodpecker	Piculus chrysochloros	Grid
Chestnut Woodpecker	Celeus elegans	Canopy platform
Cream-colored Woodpecker	Celeus flavus	Tapir Lick
Ringed Woodpecker	Celeus torquatus	Collpa Trail
Lineated Woodpecker	Dryocopus lineatus	Island
Plain-crowned Spinetail	Synallaxis gujanensis	Island
Speckled Spinetail	Cranioleuca gutturata	Near lodge
Rufous-tailed Xenops	Xenops milleri	Platform Trail?
Slender-billed Xenops	Xenops tenuirostris	Island
Plain Xenops	Xenops minutus	Near lodge
Striped Woodhaunter	Hyloctistes subulatus	Collpa Trail
Chestnut-winged Foliage-gleaner	Philydor erythropterus	Canopy platform
Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner	Philydor rufus	Collpa Trail
Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner	Automolus ochrolaemus	Collpa Trail
Olive-backed Foliage-gleaner	Automolus infuscatus	Collpa Trail
Plain-brown Woodcreeper	Dendrocincla fuliginosa	Collpa Trail
Olivaceous Woodcreeper	Sittasomus griseicapillus	Canopy platform
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper	Glyphorynchus spirurus	Canopy platform
Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper	Dendrexetastes rufigula	Bamboo Trail
Ocellated Woodcreeper	Xiphorhynchus ocellatus	Grid
Buff-throated Woodcreeper	Xiphorhynchus guttatus	Collpa Trail
Great Antshrike	Taraba major	Heard in Boca Manu
Amazonian Antshrike	Thamnophilus amazonicus	Grid
Bluish-slate Antshrike	Thamnomanes schistogynus	Platform Trail
Amazonian Antwren	Myrmotherula multostriata	Platform Trail
Plain-throated Antwren	Myrmotherula hauxwelli	Platform
White-flanked Antwren	Myrmotherula axillaris	Platform Trail
Long-winged Antwren	Myrmotherula longipennis	Near lodge
Gray Antwren	Myrmotherula menetriesii	Platform Trail
Blackish Antbird	Cercomacra nigrescens	Island
Manu Antbird	Cercomacra manu	Island?
White-browed Antbird	Myrmoborus leucophrys	Island
Warbling Antbird	Hypocnemis cantator	Platform Trail
Southern Chestnut-tailed Antbird	Myrmeciza hemimelaena	Island
Goeldi's Antbird	Myrmeciza goeldii	Collpa Trail
Black-faced Antthrush	Formicarius analis	Island
Amazonian Antpitta	Hylopezus berlepschi	Collpa Trail
Screaming Piha	Lipaugus vociferans	Grid
Band-tailed Manakin	Pipra fasciicauda	Grid
MacConnell's Flycatcher	Mionectes macconnelli	Collpa Trail
Short-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant	Myiornis ecaudatus	Platform Trail?
Rufous-tailed Flatbill	Ramphotrigon ruficauda	Collpa Trail
Golden-crowned Spadebill	Platyrinchus coronatus	Platform Trail
Black Phoebe	Sayornis nigricans	Boat from Atalaya
Vermilion Flycatcher	Pyrocephalus rubinus	Island
Drab Water-Tyrant	Ochthornis littoralis	Dock
Long-tailed Tyrant	Colonia colonus	Boat from Atalaya
Bright-rumped Attila	Attila spadiceus	Heard from Canopy platform
Boat-billed Flycatcher	Megarynchus pitangua	Island
Social Flycatcher	Myiozetetes similis	Island
Gray-capped Flycatcher	Myiozetetes granadensis	Near lodge
Streaked Flycatcher	Myiodynastes maculatus	Seen in Boca Manu
Tropical Kingbird	Tyrannus melancholicus	Island
Black-capped Becard	Pachyramphus marginatus	Collpa Trail
Pink-throated Becard	Pachyramphus minor	Creekside Trail
Brown-chested Martin	Progne tapera	Boat from Atalaya
White-winged Swallow	Tachycineta albiventer	Boat from Atalaya
Blue-and-white Swallow	Notiochelidon cyanoleuca	Boat from Atalaya
White-banded Swallow	Atticora fasciata	Boat from Atalaya
Thrush-like Wren	Campylorhynchus turdinus	Heard on the Island
Moustached Wren	Thryothorus genibarbis	Island
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon	Heard in Boca Manu
Scaly-breasted Wren	Microcerculus marginatus	Heard
Purplish Jay	Cyanocorax cyanomelas	Island
Red-eyed Vireo	Vireo olivaceus	Island
White-winged Shrike-Tanager	Lanio versicolor	Canopy platform
Flame-crested Tanager	Tachyphonus cristatus	Canopy platform
White-shouldered Tanager	Tachyphonus luctuosus	Canopy platform
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager	Habia rubica	Platform Trail
Silver-beaked Tanager	Ramphocelus carbo	Island
Blue-gray Tanager	Thraupis episcopus	Island
Palm Tanager	Thraupis palmarum	Island
Purple-throated Euphonia	Euphonia chlorotica	Canopy platform?
Paradise Tanager	Tangara chilensis	Canopy platform
Green-and-gold Tanager	Tangara schrankii	Canopy platform
Opal-rumped Tanager	Tangara velia	Canopy platform
Opal-crowned Tanager	Tangara callophrys	Canopy platform
Yellow-bellied Dacnis	Dacnis flaviventer	Island
Red-capped Cardinal	Paroaria gularis	Seen in Boca Manu
Yellow-browed Sparrow	Ammodramus aurifrons	Island
Giant Cowbird	Molothrus oryzivorus	Boat from Atalaya
Epaulet Oriole	Icterus cayanensis	Canopy platform
Yellow-rumped Cacique	Cacicus cela	Island Bamboo Trail
Crested Oropendola	Psarocolius decumanus	Bamboo Trail
Russet-backed Oropendola	Psarocolius angustifrons	Dock
Amazonian Oropendola	Gymnostinops bifasciatus	Island

22. Sandia, Puno       16th May, 2006

   Sandia is an out-of-the-way site famous for the endemic Green-capped Tanager. Sandia is reached by a gruelling 7-8 hour bus ride from Juliaca. Buses seem to leave twice a day, at 7:30am and 3pm (20s). If you have your own transport, the road there passes some nice lakes with many waterbirds that might be worth stopping at. Sandia has several places to stay, eat and do internet. We stayed at Hostal Sandia on the plaza for 10s per person.
   Green-capped Tanagers are apparently fairly common after 8km further down the valley. There are minibuses that leave the terminal when full that could drop you there. I walked from town early in the morning and found the species just 30 minutes to an hour from town. They were fairly easy to find in any areas with decent scrub or trees. Dusky Green Oropendola and Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle were also seen in this area and Torrent Tyrannulet, Black Phoebe and Torrent Duck could be seen on the river near town (the former 2 species just above and the latter just below).
   Buses only leave Sandia for Juliaca at 3pm although the San Juan bus also passes later on but is usually full. It's best to buy you tickets the day before as the buses often fill up. We chose the Selva Sur bus which skidded off the road and into a ditch leaving us to freeze above 4,000m for the night. It might be advisable to chose a difefrent bus.
I saw 33 species including 2 lifers

White-tufted Grebe	Rollandia rolland	Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Neotropic Cormorant	Phalacrocorax brasilianus	Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Great Egret	Ardea alba	Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Puna Ibis	Plegadis ridgwayi	Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Andean Goose	Chloephaga melanoptera	Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Torrent Duck	Merganetta armata
Speckled Teal	Anas flavirostris	Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Yellow-billed Pintail	Anas georgica	Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Andean Duck	Oxyura ferruginea	Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle	Geranoaetus melanoleucus	Photographed
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius	Photographed
Common Moorhen	Gallinula chloropus	Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Slate-colored Coot	Fulica ardesiaca	Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Giant Coot	Fulica gigantea	Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Andean Lapwing	Vanellus resplendens	Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Andean Gull	Larus serranus	Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Band-tailed Pigeon	Patagioenas fasciata	Photographed
White-tipped Dove	Leptotila verreauxi
White-bellied Hummingbird	Leucippus chionogaster
Andean Flicker	Colaptes rupicola	Seen on the bus ride to Sandia
Highland Elaenia	Elaenia obscura
Torrent Tyrannulet	Serpophaga cinerea
Streak-necked Flycatcher	Mionectes striaticollis
Tufted Tit-Tyrant	Anairetes parulus
Black Phoebe	Sayornis nigricans
White-winged Black-Tyrant	Knipolegus aterrimus
Tropical Kingbird	Tyrannus melancholicus
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon
Chiguanco Thrush	Turdus chiguanco
Rust-and-yellow Tanager	Thlypopsis ruficeps
Green-capped Tanager	Tangara meyerdeschauenseei	Endemic Vulnerable Photographed Recorded
Dull-colored Grassquit	Tiaris obscura
Dusky-green Oropendola	Psarocolius atrovirens

23. Abra Maruncunca, Puno       17-18th May, 2006

   Abra Maruncunca is a pass between Sandia and San Juan de Oro. A bus leaves Juliaca daily and passes Sandia about 1pm. It should take about 3 hours but our bus set off late and had a few problem on route meaning it was about 5pm by the time we arrived. The driver should know Maruncunca but look out for the 'obelisco' on the right just before the pass and ask to get off here. A short distance before the obelisk, there is a path leading off to the right (looking down hill). Follow this up the hill and down the other side. At the first obvious fork in the trail (about 15 minutes from the road), there is a small flat area just big enough for a tent. We camped here 2 nights. There should be other places to camp back near the road too.
   I birded the left fork here which leads down through some nice humid forest. The first 5-10 minutes of the trail had some fruiting trees with Andean Cock-of-the-Rock (common), Blue-banded Toucanet and Band-tailed Fruiteater. Flowering shrubs and trees had many hummingbirds including Gould's Inca, Booted Racket-tail and Long-tailed Sylph. I also saw Maroon-tailed Parakeet here. About 15 minutes down from the fork, there is a fork leading down to the right.Ignore this and go straight on under a low branch, down some muddy steps. After this, at a diagonal moss-covered tree accross the trail, I saw Scimitar-winged Piha, Hooded Tinamou, Scarlet-breasted Fruiteater, Versicolored Barbet, White-eared Solitaire, Green Jay and Slaty Tanager.
   Further down, the slope becomes flatter. This area of forest had Scaly-naped Parrot and a mixed flock including Tawny-breasted Flycatcher. The is another fork, the left leading to a small stream with good water. This forest has species more similar to Bolivia than Peru and deserves a lot more exploring.
   We walked all the way back down to the bridge at the main river (16km) some of which had some good birding. The upper part had Three-striped Warbler, White-bellied Hummingbird and Cinnamon Flycatcher. Around the small village of Yanacocha further down I saw White-winged Black-Tyrant and Speckled Chachalaca. At a cliff further down I saw some swifts which I thought looked like smaller versions of White-collared. I thought they might be White-chested but were probably more likely White-tipped. After the larger town of Quiquira, the road wound down to the river near which I saw Black-faced Tanager. This road has very little traffic. Buses pass here at about 7-8am (?) and in the late afternoon. As buses come directly from Julicaca it would be possible to go straight to Abra Maruncunca and bird Sandia on the way back.
I saw 60 species including 7 lifers

Hooded Tinamou	Nothocercus nigrocapillus
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura
Aplomado Falcon	Falco femoralis
Speckled Chachalaca	Ortalis guttata
White-tipped Dove	Leptotila verreauxi
Maroon-tailed Parakeet	Pyrrhura melanura	Photographed Recorded
Scaly-naped Parrot	Amazona mercenaria	Photographed
White-tipped Swift	Aeronautes montivagus	Possibly seen Recorded?
Gray-breasted Sabrewing	Campylopterus largipennis	Photographed
Green Violet-ear	Colibri thalassinus
White-bellied Hummingbird	Leucippus chionogaster
Speckled Hummingbird	Adelomyia melanogenys
Gould's Inca	Coeligena inca
Booted Racket-tail	Ocreatus underwoodii
Long-tailed Sylph	Aglaiocercus kingi
Masked Trogon	Trogon personatus
Versicolored Barbet	Eubucco versicolor
Blue-banded Toucanet	Aulacorhynchus coeruleicinctis
Azara's Spinetail	Synallaxis azarae	Recorded
Spotted Barbtail	Premnoplex brunnescens
Montane Foliage-gleaner	Anabacerthia striaticollis
Olivaceous Woodcreeper	Sittasomus griseicapillus
Olive-backed Woodcreeper	Xiphorhynchus triangularis	Possibly seen
Montane Woodcreeper	Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger
Variable Antshrike	Thamnophilus caerulescens	Photographed Recorded
Barred Antthrush	Chamaeza mollissima	Heard
Slaty Gnateater	Conopophaga ardesiaca
Band-tailed Fruiteater	Pipreola intermedia	Photographed
Scarlet-breasted Fruiteater	Pipreola frontalis	Photographed
Scimitar-winged Piha	Lipaugus uropygialis	Vulnerable
Andean Cock-of-the-rock	Rupicola peruviana	Photographed
Streak-necked Flycatcher	Mionectes striaticollis
Tawny-breasted Flycatcher	Myiobius villosus
White-winged Black-Tyrant	Knipolegus aterrimus
Tropical Kingbird	Tyrannus melancholicus
Barred Becard	Pachyramphus versicolor
Blue-and-white Swallow	Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren	Henicorhina leucophrys	Recorded
White-eared Solitaire	Entomodestes leucotis
Green Jay	Cyanocorax yncas
Spectacled Redstart	Myioborus melanocephalus
Citrine Warbler	Basileuterus luteoviridis	Recorded
Russet-crowned Warbler	Basileuterus coronatus	Recorded
Three-striped Warbler	Basileuterus tristriatus
Bananaquit	Coereba flaveola
Black-faced Tanager	Schistochlamys melanopis	Seen near San Jose
Common Bush-Tanager	Chlorospingus ophthalmicus	Recorded
Slaty Tanager	Creurgops dentata
Blue-capped Tanager	Thraupis cyanocephala	Photographed
Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager	Anisognathus somptuosus	Photographed Recorded
Bronze-green Euphonia	Euphonia mesochrysa	Possibly seen
Beryl-spangled Tanager	Tangara nigroviridis
Blue-and-black Tanager	Tangara vassorii
Slaty Finch	Haplospiza rustica
Rusty Flowerpiercer	Diglossa sittoides	Photographed
Bluish Flowerpiercer	Diglossopis caerulescens
Black-faced Brush-Finch	Atlapetes melanolaimus	Endemic Photographed
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch	Buarremon brunneinucha	Photographed
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis

24. Paracas Peninsular & Isla Ballestas, Pisco       23rd May, 2006

   Isla Ballestas is a really spectacular seabird colony only accessible on a tour. These are very cheap (30s) from Pisco. Pisco is a large town with many places to stay, eat and do internet. It also has some dodgy characters and it is best to stick to the areas near the plaza with lots of people, especially at night. Tours are easily arranged through a hotel or tour agency. They leave about 7am and return about 11am. The boat trip to Isla Ballestas is about 2 hours and you can see 3 cormorant species, Peruvian Booby, Inca Tern, Peruvian Seaside Cinclodes and Humboldt's Penguin (only a few) plus lots of sea lions. Pelagic species can sometimes be seen in the area but I saw none. The area around El Chaco port has 5 species of gull plus some waders.
   I arranged a full day tour (through my hotel) for 40s which went to the island in the morning and the reserve in the afternoon. The land on the peninsular is desert with little life, but the coast has many sea birds. Our tour stopped at the museum nearby which there is a viewing platform where you can see Chilean Flamingos plus some waders and terns in a small bay. On the walk from the museum to the platform I saw Coastal Miner. It is quite far from the platform to the bay and binoculars don't really suffice. A telescope would be very handy. I saw some very small terns feeding in this small bay which were probably Peruvian. A better place for this species is further on this road where there is another platform. Our tour didn't go there though. Walking though the dessert to get there yourself wouldn't be very pleasant. The tour also stopped at a beach which had Black Skimmer, Osprey and oystercatchers and another place called 'La Catedral' with a spledid view over the cliffs.

I saw 35 species including 5 lifers

Humboldt Penguin	Spheniscus humboldti	Vulnerable Photographed
Peruvian Pelican	Pelecanus thagus	Photographed
Peruvian Booby	Sula variegata	Photographed
Neotropic Cormorant	Phalacrocorax brasilianus	Photographed
Guanay Cormorant	Phalacrocorax bougainvillii	Photographed
Red-legged Cormorant	Phalacrocorax gaimardi	Near-threatened Photographed
Great Egret	Ardea alba
Little Blue Heron	Egretta caerulea
Snowy Egret	Egretta thula
Chilean Flamingo	Phoenicopterus chilensis	Near-threatened
Turkey Vulture	Cathartes aura	Photographed
Osprey	Pandion haliaetus
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius
Blackish Oystercatcher	Haematopus ater	Photographed
American Oystercatcher	Haematopus palliatus
Black-bellied Plover	Pluvialis squatarola	Possibly seen
Whimbrel	Numenius phaeopus
Ruddy Turnstone	Arenaria interpres	Photographed
Belcher's Gull	Larus belcheri	Photographed
Gray Gull	Larus modestus	Photographed
Kelp Gull	Larus dominicanus	Photographed
Gray-headed Gull	Larus cirrocephalus	Photographed
Franklin's Gull	Larus pipixcan	Photographed
Royal Tern	Sterna maxima	Possibly seen
Peruvian Tern	Sterna lorata	Near-threatened Possibly seen
Black Tern	Chlidonias niger	Possibly seen
Black Skimmer	Rynchops niger
Rock Pigeon	Columba livia	Introduced species
Pacific Dove	Zenaida meloda
Croaking Ground-Dove	Columbina cruziana
Coastal Miner	Geositta peruviana	Endemic
Peruvian Seaside Cinclodes	Cinclodes taczanowskii	Endemic
Blue-and-white Swallow	Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
House Sparrow	Passer domesticus	Introduced species

25. Lampa, Junin       30-31st May, 2006

   Lampa is a slightly out of the way site and the type location for the endangered endemic Black-spectacled Brush-Finch. To reach here, first take a bus to Huancayo, a city with good access and facilities. From here take a car towards Pariahuanca. These leave from near the market when full. It takes about 2 and a half hours to Lampa (12s). Lampa is a nice little town with only 1 place to stay which is just 1 block from the plaza. It belongs to Marcelino who is trying to encourage toursim in the area. His Hospedaje is clean and has many beds but no doors to the individual rooms. There are a few simple restaurants and shops in town.
   To get to the site for the brush-finch, look up hill from the plaza and you should see a path winding up the hillside. There is a road that runs along above the plaza to the right, round the ridge, into the small valley and over a small bridge. This is too far. Turn left off this road onto the steep path up the hill just after the restaurant and bfore a kind of blue, concrete pyramid. Just follow this path up which runs up the left side of the valley. The brush-finch is found in scrub between the fields quite early on. The vegetation further on is more natural and there is som nice forest. The trail crosses a bridge further up where I saw White-capped Dipper. Furher on I saw the strange race of Plain-tailed Warbler which associated with Citrine Warblers.
I saw 33 species including 2 lifers

Andean Ibis	Theristicus branickii	Seen between Huancayo and Lampa
Torrent Duck	Merganetta armata
Mountain Caracara	Phalcoboenus megalopterus	Seen between Huancayo and Lampa
Andean Lapwing	Vanellus resplendens	Seen between Huancayo and Lampa
Band-tailed Pigeon	Patagioenas fasciata
White-tipped Swift	Aeronautes montivagus
Sparkling Violet-ear	Colibri coruscans
Shining Sunbeam	Aglaeactis cupripennis
Mountain Velvetbreast	Lafresnaya lafresnayi	Possibly seen
Violet-throated Starfrontlet	Coeligena violifer
Tyrian Metaltail	Metallura tyrianthina
Long-tailed Sylph	Aglaiocercus kingi
White-winged Cinclodes	Cinclodes atacamensis	Seen between Huancayo and Lampa
Red-crested Cotinga	Ampelion rubrocristata
Torrent Tyrannulet	Serpophaga cinerea
Cinnamon Flycatcher	Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca rufipectoralis
White-winged Black-Tyrant	Knipolegus aterrimus
Blue-and-white Swallow	Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
White-capped Dipper	Cinclus leucocephalus
Plain-tailed Wren	Thryothorus euophrys
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon
Mountain Wren	Troglodytes solstitialis
Great Thrush	Turdus fuscater
Spectacled Redstart	Myioborus melanocephalus
Citrine Warbler	Basileuterus luteoviridis
Rust-and-yellow Tanager	Thlypopsis ruficeps
Dull-colored Grassquit	Tiaris obscura
Black-throated Flowerpiercer	Diglossa brunneiventris
Black-spectacled Brush-Finch	Atlapetes melanopsis	Endemic Endangered
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-billed Saltator	Saltator aurantiirostris
Black-backed Grosbeak	Pheucticus aureoventris

26. Lago Junin, Ondores, Junin       1-2nd June, 2006

   This high alitude lake is the only site for the critically endangered endemic Junin Grebe and endangered endemic Junin Rail. It is fairly easy to see the grebes if you take a boat out onto the lake, more difficult to see from the edge of the lake in Ondores. The rail is incedibly difficult but apparently not impossible to see species. Junin is a fairly large town between Lima and Huanuco. You can take a bus to the latter from Lima and get off at Junin which is on the highway. Alternatively you can get any bus to La Oreja and a taxi or bus from the junction. There are several places to stay, eat and do internet around the main plaza in Junin. The place to bird is Ondores, a smaller town 40 minutes (20km) away. There maybe basic accomodation but there is no reason to stay there as colectivos leave regularly and are very cheap (3s). From the main plaza, walk to the Plaza de Armas (smaller) and another block away to the place where they leave (just ask).
   Get off at the INRENA office (opens at 8am) and pay the 5s entry charge. The staff are very friendly and helpful and know the 2 species well. They can put you in contact with a guide or boat man to take you out. I was allowed to join some INRENA biologists studying the endemic Junin Frog out on to an island on the lake. From here I saw the grebes at some distance. I tipped their boat man 10s.
   To see the grebe from the lake edge, you need to be there when the water level is high, which it was when I was there. Go through Ondores and out the other side. About a km further along there is a cemetery on the left hand side. About here, walk down to the lake edge and look for the grebe. A scope is helpful if they are far away especially to distiguish from the similar Silvery Grebe. I didn't see them when I was here but another group saw them very close to the edge. For the rail, cut down to the lake from the INRENA office. This time walk the other way (right) along the lake to where reed beds meet the edge. I waded through this area in search of the rail with no luck but apparently this is the area it was seen by Tomas Valqui 2 weeks before. He had a local guide with him so you could enquire. At high water, the rails seem to fly off th lake islands to the lake edge where they may be more susceptible to predation. 3 corpses had been found recently. The whole area is great for waterbirds but migrants had already passed when I was there.
I saw 42 species including 2 lifers

White-tufted Grebe	Rollandia rolland
Silvery Grebe	Podiceps occipitalis
Junin Grebe	Podiceps taczanowskii	Endemic Critically endangered
Snowy Egret	Egretta thula
Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis
Puna Ibis	Plegadis ridgwayi
Andean Goose	Chloephaga melanoptera
Speckled Teal	Anas flavirostris
Crested Duck	Anas specularioides
Yellow-billed Pintail	Anas georgica
Puna Teal	Anas puna
Andean Duck	Oxyura ferruginea
Cinereous Harrier	Circus cinereus
Mountain Caracara	Phalcoboenus megalopterus
Aplomado Falcon	Falco femoralis
Plumbeous Rail	Pardirallus sanguinolentus
Purple Gallinule	Porphyrio martinica
Common Moorhen	Gallinula chloropus
Slate-colored Coot	Fulica ardesiaca
Giant Coot	Fulica gigantea
Andean Lapwing	Vanellus resplendens
Puna Snipe	Gallinago andina
Andean Gull	Larus serranus
Black-winged Ground-Dove	Metriopelia melanoptera
Andean Flicker	Colaptes rupicola
Common Miner	Geositta cunicularia
Bar-winged Cinclodes	Cinclodes fuscus	Possibly seen
White-winged Cinclodes	Cinclodes atacamensis
Wren-like Rushbird	Phleocryptes melanops
Many-colored Rush-Tyrant	Tachuris rubrigastra
Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant	Agriornis montana
Andean Negrito	Lessonia oreas
Andean Swallow	Haplochelidon andecola
Correndera Pipit	Anthus correndera
Short-billed Pipit	Anthus furcatus
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon
Chiguanco Thrush	Turdus chiguanco
Peruvian Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus punensis
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus plebejus
Bright-rumped Yellow-Finch	Sicalis uropygialis
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
Black Siskin	Carduelis atrata

27. Carpish Tunnel, Huanuco       3rd June, 2006

   This great birding site is very easily reached from Huanuco, a large city with good facilities. Take one of the many colectivos leaving for Tingo Maria. They will try and charge you the full fare of 15s but you should only pay 6-7s. The ride takes about 50 minutes. Get off before the tunnel and explore some of the forest nearby. There is a open area on the left here with a nice view over the forest. From here you can also get down a narrow trail to a little stream and beyond. Further down the road, there is a right bend at a small stream. This was mentioned in Valqui, but the trail along the stream is overgrown and the first part has been used as a toilet by motorists. By far the best area around here was a trail starting on the left just before tunnel. This goes up into a open grassy slope full of Black-and-white Seedeaters. Stick to the right of this area and follow the trail up. As you reach the trees, there is a fork. The right goes further up to another fork, both ways leading up to 2 large electricity pylons. After exploring these, take the first left fork which goes on for a long way through good scrub and secondary forest crawling with birds. If you continue along here, you finally get to a house after which the trail curves to the right and goes along to the other side of the tunnel. At this curve, there is also a trail leading straight on which I didn't go down but looks like it might lead through good habitat.
  
I saw 35 species including 4 lifers

Andean Guan	Penelope montagnii
Violet-throated Starfrontlet	Coeligena violifer
Amethyst-throated Sunangel	Heliangelus amethysticollis
Tyrian Metaltail	Metallura tyrianthina
Rufous Spinetail	Synallaxis unirufa
Azara's Spinetail	Synallaxis azarae	Heard only
Pearled Treerunner	Margarornis squamiger
Streaked Tuftedcheek	Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii
White-throated Tyrannulet	Mecocerculus leucophrys
Sulphur-bellied Tyrannulet	Mecocerculus minor
White-banded Tyrannulet	Mecocerculus stictopterus
Ochraceous-breasted Flycatcher	Myiophobus ochraceiventris
Cinnamon Flycatcher	Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Peruvian Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca spodionota	Endemic
Rufous-webbed Tyrant	Polioxolmis rufipennis
Barred Becard	Pachyramphus versicolor
Blue-and-white Swallow	Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Andean Solitaire	Myadestes ralloides	Heard only
White-eared Solitaire	Entomodestes leucotis	Heard only
Great Thrush	Turdus fuscater
Spectacled Redstart	Myioborus melanocephalus
Citrine Warbler	Basileuterus luteoviridis
Blue-backed Conebill	Conirostrum sitticolor
Grass-green Tanager	Chlorornis riefferii
Superciliaried Hemispingus	Hemispingus superciliaris
Blue-capped Tanager	Thraupis cyanocephala
Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager	Anisognathus lacrymosus
Yellow-scarfed Tanager	Iridosornis reinhardti	Endemic
Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager	Delothraupis castaneoventris
Blue-and-black Tanager	Tangara vassorii
White-browed Hemispingus	Hemispingus auricularis	Endemic
Black-and-white Seedeater	Sporophila luctuosa
Moustached Flowerpiercer	Diglossa mystacalis
Masked Flowerpiercer	Diglossopis cyanea
Slaty Brush-Finch	Atlapetes schistaceus

28. Paty Trail, Huanuco       4th June, 2006

   This is another excellent site 4km further on from the end of the tunnel. The birds here differ a little from Carpish. It is accessed in just the same way by taking a colectivo but getting off a bit further down. My driver didn't know 'Paty' but its basically the first group of houses down on the left. After the houses, walk down a little path starting before the metal rail. If you're not sure, ask the locals where the school is. The path leads down to a few school buildings, then further down to a small football pitch. It was raining the morning I was there and I saw few birds but improved later on. The site is definately worth a couple of days birding. It was 8am by the time I arrived and it may well be worth staying here to be there first thing. You could probably camp. Alternatively you could contact Fernando Gallardo (granadillacarpish@hotmail.com) who has a house nearby and who occasionally hosts birdwatchers and biologists.
  
I saw 33 species including 4 lifers

Roadside Hawk	Buteo magnirostris
Orange-breasted Falcon	Falco deiroleucus
Chestnut-breasted Coronet	Boissonneaua matthewsii
Bronzy Inca	Coeligena coeligena
Amethyst-throated Sunangel	Heliangelus amethysticollis
Tyrian Metaltail	Metallura tyrianthina
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker	Piculus rivolii
Azara's Spinetail	Synallaxis azarae
Buff-browed Foliage-gleaner	Syndactyla rufosuperciliata
Streak-necked Flycatcher	Mionectes striaticollis
Peruvian Tyrannulet	Zimmerius viridiflavus	Endemic
Cinnamon Flycatcher	Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Blue-and-white Swallow	Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
Peruvian Wren	Cinnycerthia peruana	Endemic
Mountain Wren	Troglodytes solstitialis
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren	Henicorhina leucophrys
White-eared Solitaire	Entomodestes leucotis	Heard only
Great Thrush	Turdus fuscater
Spectacled Redstart	Myioborus melanocephalus
Citrine Warbler	Basileuterus luteoviridis
Russet-crowned Warbler	Basileuterus coronatus
Capped Conebill	Conirostrum albifrons
Grass-green Tanager	Chlorornis riefferii
Gray-hooded Bush-Tanager	Cnemoscopus rubrirostris
Blue-capped Tanager	Thraupis cyanocephala
Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager	Anisognathus lacrymosus
Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager	Anisognathus somptuosus
Beryl-spangled Tanager	Tangara nigroviridis
Blue-black Grassquit	Volatinia jacarina
Black-and-white Seedeater	Sporophila luctuosa
Masked Flowerpiercer	Diglossopis cyanea
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
Dusky-green Oropendola	Psarocolius atrovirens

29. Bosque Unchog, near Cochabamba, Huanuco       5-7th June, 2006

   Bosque Unchog is an excellent area of patchy elfin forest fairly close to Huanuco. It is best to spend a couple of days up there and camp, although at over 3,600m it gets very cold at night and in the morning our tent was frozen solid. It is easy to reach the town of Cochabamba by public transport from Huanuco but a little more complicated getting back. Trucks and collective taxis leave from the small terminal near Mercado Viejo in central Huanuco. We went up in a car for 5s which left at about 11:30am. A truck costing 3s left at 1pm. It takes about 2-3 hours depending on the state of the vehicle. It is about 8km from Cochabamba to the end of the road and we negotiated with the driver to take us there for an extra 10s for 2 people. He claimed to run out of petrol half way up but I don't think he was happy about the state of the road. At the end of the road you cross a little bridge and enter an open valley with many places to camp. We found a sheltered spot next to a small stream with good water.
   Getting back is more difficult. Unless you can persuade someone reliable to come and pick you up, you will have to walk back down to town. Another problem is that cars usually leave Cochabamba for Huanuco at 6am. The road winds all the way down and there are several good short cuts that save you a lot of time. From Unchog (above 3,600m) to Shihualli (about 2,200m) at the bottom is probably more than 20km but using the short cuts we made it down in 3 hours. From Shihualli there are a few cars and trucks passing that will take you back to Huanuco for 3s or you can walk an extra 6km to the highway and take a minibus for 1s. There is a small charge for vehicles using the road to Cochabamba and Valqui recommended giving a small donation to the school. Ask around for the 'Presidente' of the community.
   Between Shihualli and Cochabamba I saw many common andean species plus Fasciated Wren (in gardens around the junction), White-bellied Hummingbird and Black-and-White Seedeater. Between Cochabamba you start to see some more interesting species such as Brown-flanked Tanager, Plain-colored Seedeater, Black-throated Flowerpiercer and Mountain Caracara. In the upper areas of elfin forest aroun 3600m I saw Andean Snipe, Coppery Metaltail, White-chinned Thistletail and Slaty Brush-Finch. In the open area to the right, Andean Lapwing, Mountain Caracara, Speckled teal and Bar-winged Cinclodes. You pass the highest point on the trail about 3,650m and after this the trail goes down. On the next level down there was a small open area on the left (3,620m) with Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant, Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant and Line-fronted Canastero. A little further down was a small, narrow patch of scrub (3,580m) great for flocks including Pardusco, Pearled Tree-runner, Gold-collared and Yellow-scarved Tanagers, Scarlet-bellied Mountain-tanagers and Blue-backed Conebill. The next interesting area was where the trail went down steeply through a small patch of good forest (3,470-3,550m) . Here I saw Rufous Antpitta, Bay-vented Cotinga,.....
I saw 65 species including 8 lifers

Puna Ibis	Plegadis ridgwayi
Speckled Teal	Anas flavirostris
Mountain Caracara	Phalcoboenus megalopterus
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius	Seen near Cochabamba
Andean Lapwing	Vanellus resplendens
Puna Snipe	Gallinago andina
Andean Snipe	Gallinago jamesoni
Band-tailed Pigeon	Patagioenas fasciata
Eared Dove	Zenaida auriculata	Seen near Cochabamba
Sparkling Violet-ear	Colibri coruscans	Seen near Cochabamba
White-bellied Hummingbird	Leucippus chionogaster	Seen near Cochabamba
Sword-billed Hummingbird	Ensifera ensifera
Amethyst-throated Sunangel	Heliangelus amethysticollis
Coppery Metaltail	Metallura theresiae	Endemic
Bar-bellied Woodpecker	Veniliornis nigriceps
Andean Flicker	Colaptes rupicola
Bar-winged Cinclodes	Cinclodes fuscus
White-chinned Thistletail	Schizoeaca fuliginosa
Line-fronted Canastero	Asthenes urubambensis	Near-threatened
Pearled Treerunner	Margarornis squamiger
Streaked Tuftedcheek	Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii
Rufous Antpitta	Grallaria rufula
Large-footed Tapaculo	Scytalopus macropus	Endemic Heard only
Red-crested Cotinga	Ampelion rubrocristata
Bay-vented Cotinga	Doliornis sclateri	Endemic
White-throated Tyrannulet	Mecocerculus leucophrys
White-banded Tyrannulet	Mecocerculus stictopterus
Ochraceous-breasted Flycatcher	Myiophobus ochraceiventris
Black Phoebe	Sayornis nigricans	Seen near Cochabamba
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca rufipectoralis
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca fumicolor
Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant	Cnemarchus erythropygius
Blue-and-white Swallow	Notiochelidon cyanoleuca	Seen near Cochabamba
White-capped Dipper	Cinclus leucocephalus
Fasciated Wren	Campylorhynchus fasciatus	Seen near Cochabamba
Peruvian Wren	Cinnycerthia peruana	Endemic
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon	Seen near Cochabamba
Sedge Wren	Cistothorus platensis
Great Thrush	Turdus fuscater
Citrine Warbler	Basileuterus luteoviridis
Cinereous Conebill	Conirostrum cinereum
Blue-backed Conebill	Conirostrum sitticolor
Grass-green Tanager	Chlorornis riefferii
Superciliaried Hemispingus	Hemispingus superciliaris
Drab Hemispingus	Hemispingus xanthophthalmus
Brown-flanked Tanager	Thlypopsis pectoralis	Endemic Possibly seen
Golden-backed Mountain-Tanager	Buthraupis aureodorsalis	Endemic Vulnerable
Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager	Anisognathus lacrymosus
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager	Anisognathus igniventris
Golden-collared Tanager	Iridosornis jelskii
Yellow-scarfed Tanager	Iridosornis reinhardti	Endemic
Pardusco	Nephelornis oneilli	Endemic
White-browed Hemispingus	Hemispingus auricularis	Endemic
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus unicolor
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus plebejus
Black-and-white Seedeater	Sporophila luctuosa
Plain-colored Seedeater	Catamenia inornata
Glossy Flowerpiercer	Diglossa lafresnayii
Moustached Flowerpiercer	Diglossa mystacalis
Black-throated Flowerpiercer	Diglossa brunneiventris
Masked Flowerpiercer	Diglossopis cyanea
Slaty Brush-Finch	Atlapetes schistaceus
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-bellied Grosbeak	Pheucticus chrysogaster	Seen near Cochabamba
Hooded Siskin	Carduelis magellanica	Seen near Cochabamba

30. Rio Chonta, Cajamarca       12th June, 2006

   This is an easily accessibly site from Cajamarca for the endangered endemic Grey-bellied Comet. I tried to follow the instructions in the Valqui guide and got totally lost. Instead of going via Ba�os del Inca, it is far easier via the airport towards Combayo. Colectivos and combis leave from around 194 Jiron Revilla Perez, a continuation of Jiron del ..... starting at the corner of the plaza. The ride takes about 50 minutes and costs just 2s. The first 20 minutes or so is paved then it is a gravel road. Ask to get off at Chicche where there is a small hydroelectric power station. From there it is just a few hundred metres until good habitat. Just before the first house on the left there is a dry stream bed coming down and a little hill with a big rock. Both these have some small trees with pink and yellow flowers where I saw the comets feeding. I also saw one at the bottom of the hill perched on a low branch catching insects like a flycatcher. I also saw Green-tailed Trainbearer here and Torrent Tyrannulets are easily seen on the river. The owner of this property was called Florentino Cortez. He asked for a few soles for some food which I was happy to give him.
I saw 21 species including 1 lifer

Cattle Egret	Bubulcus ibis
American Kestrel	Falco sparverius
Sparkling Violet-ear	Colibri coruscans
Green-tailed Trainbearer	Lesbia nuna
Gray-bellied Comet	Taphrolesbia griseiventris	Endemic Endangered
Purple-collared Woodstar	Myrtis fanny	Possibly seen
Andean Flicker	Colaptes rupicola
Baron's Spinetail	Cranioleuca baroni	Endemic
Torrent Tyrannulet	Serpophaga cinerea
Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant	Anairetes flavirostris
White-browed Chat-Tyrant	Ochthoeca leucophrys
Blue-and-white Swallow	Notiochelidon cyanoleuca
House Wren	Troglodytes aedon
Great Thrush	Turdus fuscater
Peruvian Sierra-Finch	Phrygilus punensis
Band-tailed Seedeater	Catamenia analis
Black-throated Flowerpiercer	Diglossa brunneiventris
Rufous-collared Sparrow	Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-billed Saltator	Saltator aurantiirostris
Golden-bellied Grosbeak	Pheucticus chrysogaster
Peruvian Meadowlark	Sturnella bellicosa